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I hope this can help
Mine went bad on a cross country trip at 39980 miles. No, it's not covered beyond the standard 3/36k warranty even though it's attached to the fuel pump which is covered under the 5/50k powertrain warranty.
Nissan has known about this and actually recalled the 2001-2003 Xterras because of it.
So, I'm about to do battle with Nissan rather than pay the $250+ to have it replaced.
If this was an isolated incident, too bad for me and I'd go ahead and pay it, but since it's a VERY COMMON problem, I figure Nissan is just too cheap to replace it gratis. Too bad since this is the 4th and possibly final Nissan I'll be purchasing.
If I can't get them to cover it, has anyone successfully replaced one of these units on a 2005? The part is around $95.00 plus S&H, the labor is the killer from what I understand.
Thanks
did you get your fuel pump replaced under the recall? My 2002 is sitting at the dealer now and they want $750 to replace it!!
Thanks.
The actual part in the recall was the fuel sending unit, not the fuel pump, although they are attached to each other. You may want to ask the Service Manager for a detailed explaination of what the problem is, ask to keep the "faulty" part and tell ask him about the recall. If the pump is at all related to the sending unit, then I can't see how it's not covered.
Also any suggestions for better gas MPG? Getting about 14-15 hwy.
Omen
Edmunds shows that the maintenance cost in my area as less than $400.
thanks!
Also the "always on" power source in the front no longer works. Checked the fuses and they all look good. Anyone have this problem too?
We have noticed a "chirp" in the engine of our 2004 Xterra. We brought it to 2 different places for estimates, both of which indicated we needed new belts.
We had the belts replaced. Still chirping. They said it must be the pulley. Replaced it. Still chirping. They admitted they took a stethoscope to the engine to try and figure out exactly where it was coming from but still didn't know.
Any ideas? We changed the oil and put in a new air filter, too.
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Proceed at your own risk -- I've never had a reason to mess with mine and it might be a waste of time. It reads as if ya don't actually start the engine in the procedure.
Here's a Popular Mechanics how to:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/3297276.html
I'd put an aftermarket "cold air" intake kit on it. This will let the engine breath better. If you dont care about noise, you can put an aftermarket muffler on it. You'll probably gain 10hp and about 4 miles to the gallon.
However, this kit (Cold Air intake) costs about $300 and I am just trying to research if it worth the price
Did you have any luck with the cabin filters? The owner's manual was pretty clear on how to handle the transfer of the filters. But never as you know asume that it will take 10 minutes.
As far as Cold air kits - i was looking at K&N Parts as well - i trust their quality - used their air filters for 7 years now.
Cabin filters - yeah, thanks for checking! It was a 10 min process... I don't think i even needed a screwdriver. Not quite sure why everybody wants $100+ to replace those. The filters may have been a bit chepaer, but i think i paid somewhere around $30 for a set of two (and the truck takes two).
You need to be certain that the filters you use have an anti-drainback valve like the OEM filters do. This keeps the engine oil in the line close to the valvetrain when the engine is shut off. This reduces wear upon startup. Without the valve, the engine oil drains back into the crankcase.
A lot of guys recommend the Mobil 1 filter as being excellent, but I have no experience with them. Good luck with your choice.
There's some filter talk over in the Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 discussion too.
Only one dealer in this area uses anything other than regular oil. They were not able to explain to me what exactly they use but it's not quite synthetic blend nor it's a regular oil - something in between Firestone uses Synthetic blend for this price.
I'll ask for a drain valve but I would assume their filters would have that. Thanks for the suggestion!
It drove me FREAKIN CRAZY..........however..........I went with Yokohoma tires & I got the tires SIPED and it helps.
It ended up being one of the axle being dislodged from the socket and even though the 4x4 was engaging the axle was not really getting locked. It was pretty dangerous too as the axle wasn't really locked in place and could have separated at any time.
The reason for that problem was that I did a service not too far before at Midas and when didn't install some components right so the axcel slipped from the socket.
Any ideas? does this sound like a costly fix?
Cheers,
Omen
So... question is... anyone changed their timing belt or whatever has to be done at around 100,000 miles?? I am at 120,000.
THanks!