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Toyota Camry Hybrid Driving Tips & Tricks

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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    That might be broder-line obsessive..... :P
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    I don't see how running UP a grade in B will have any positive effects. It's not the same as a low gear.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    This is for a Prius but it helps you understand the way CVT (at least what most people want to call it) works.

    http://www.ecrostech.com/prius/original/Understanding/PowerSplitDevice.htm
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    Again for a Prius

    http://www.ecrostech.com/prius/original/Understanding/PowerTrain.htm
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    r_nashr_nash Member Posts: 33
    I've noticed that B mode prevents the ICE from shutting off. If you know you are just stopping on a hill for a second, it might make sense to use B mode then.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    Again for the Prius. I didn't realice the ICE doesn't ever propel you in reverse. Hummmm I'll have to check out the TCH tonight. I didn't realize that on my Camry if it's the same.

    http://www.ecrostech.com/prius/original/Understanding/WhatsGoingOnAsIDrive.htm
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    You can never know too much

    http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hybrid-car.htm
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    Don't try this without high speed access

    http://toyota.jp/hv/entrance.html?intohsd.toyotajp.kluger
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    Manufacturers design the tires to match up with the cars. They expect a specific tire surface interface area on the pavement to create a desired safe handling characteristics.

    Just because a tire has a maximum pressure rating does not mean it should be achieved. If you put the same tire on a 3500# car and a 4400# car you'll want more pressure in the heavier car to create the right surface area. Increasing the pressure on a lighter car however lessens the tire contact area and thus create a longer braking distance as well as less surface area for grip.

    Granted there is some "play" in these numbers but increasing pressures 30% over design is pushing the safety and handling aspect of the tire design for good FE.

    Tires are designed with a maximum pressure so that they can achieve a wide range of applications, not so you can pump them up hard on your TCH.

    Also (someone mentioned the max on the Michellin was 44 psig) running at 42 cold pressure on concrete highways at high speed in hot weather will probably exceed your maximum tire pressures. If you blow a tire and wreck your car don't put it past your insurance or whoever you decide to sue to check your pressures on your other tires or for that matter your comments on this website to see if you purposely exceeded recommended pressures. (I'm not a lawyer, just spend a lot of time tring to figure them out at times)

    I realize this won't change the minds of you die hards. Don't even want to. However many novices watch these forums for ideas and "buy into" just about everything they read from synthetic oil, high tire pressures and running in neutral. All these things should be (re)considered after research and study, not just as a "I wanna do it to" attitude.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    The band is not there when you are below 25mpg.

    Wouldn't know, never been there. ;)
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Exactly.

    You should follow the auto manufacturers guidelines for the proper inflation of your particular make/model.

    And of course, the pounds of inflation are always meant to be adjusted on tires that have not been run more than a mile or two. That will give you the proper operating pressure.
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    agnostoagnosto Member Posts: 207
    Precisely, one should NEVER deviate from the recommended cold tire pressure (located on the driver's door frame lower right) specific for the make/model of the vehicle. I check the tire air pressure every morning while the vehicles parked inside the garage and make sure do not exceed 1-2psi when tires are cold.

    As an FYI, I have an expensive digital air gauge and checked the air pressure after driving my 2007 TCH for just over 15 miles and registered 38psi...
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    stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "I check the tire air pressure every morning while the vehicles parked inside the garage and make sure do not exceed 1-2psi when tires are cold."

    Wow, every morning. That's dedication. I assume you mean that the tires do not exceed 1-2psi above the recommended pressure?
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    regal1945regal1945 Member Posts: 25
    why check them?? don't you have the sensors??? sounds a bit anul to me lol. :D
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    why check them?? don't you have the sensors???

    I would agree that daily is a little extreme. However, if the TPMS has a 5psig (?) lower limit then I would not want to totally rely on that. That to me is just a back up for a severe pressure loss. If I set my pressure at 32 I wouldn't want to be driving around at 28. Not that it would hurt anything but FE, but I would want to keep them close to what I have determined to be optimal.

    I usually check once a month and when the weather starts changing
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    agnostoagnosto Member Posts: 207
    Read my post #147 under "Toyota Camry Hybrid Owners: Problems & Solutions" and I hope you get the point...
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    agnostoagnosto Member Posts: 207
    If you set your pressure at 32psi when cold in (summer or winter) you should not have to worry driving around at 28psi (unless you have a defective tire(s)).
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    The single cheapest improvement one can make when getting a new car, any car, really, is metal valve stems. The rubber ones rot and slow leak quickly in places with weather extremes, or terribly hot areas like the desert Southwest.
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    stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "The single cheapest improvement one can make when getting a new car, any car, really, is metal valve stems. The rubber ones rot and slow leak quickly in places with weather extremes, or terribly hot areas like the desert Southwest."

    Would the metal tire stems interfere with the TPMS?
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    coolrodcoolrod Member Posts: 6
    Hello everyone. My wife and I ordered a TCH just a few days ago and it won't be here for a couple of months, but I've been reading your posts to get a better understanding of the car. I've noticed here that the word ICE is used a lot. Does that mean the engine? I've read several references to the ICE coming on at 40 mph. Does that mean the engine starts up at 40 mph? I know this seems like a really dumb question, but like I said I'm a virgin here. Please be gentle with me! :)
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Internal Combustion Engine, or ICE ;)

    The ICE will kick in at anytime, actually, that the onboard computer tells it to. Generally that happens when your demand for speed increases over 35/40 MPH, or even at lower speeds once you have traveled long enough to lower the stored charge in the battery, according to Toyota's computer program.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    Please be gentle with me!

    Hey, we've all been where you are, don't fret the questions.

    ICE is the internal combustion engine.

    Yes, the engine will always "come on" at 42 mpg (at least up to an idle). There is a technical reason for this in other posts. Something I think about keeping the (electrical) motor from overreving. Much of the time even below 42 mph your ICE will run as well. Only when you're in the E (electric) or as some refer to as the EV (electric vehicle) mode will it go completely off under 42 mph.

    There are other times the ICE will be running under 42 mph:
    1) like 7 seconds after start up
    2) when the battery needs charged
    3) when "extra" power is needed.

    Actually don't expect the ICE to actually stay off a lot. As you become an "expert" you will realize it's the numerous times of infrequent ICE operations that adds up to excellent overall FE (Fuel Effeciency / Economy).

    By reading the posts and tips offered by all the posters you can learn to add up these small incremental milage increase tips into a really respectable overall FE.

    Most everyone that is trying is getting 36 mpg. Several over 39 mpg. Most of those in the 33 mpg range will admit they don't drive to maximize the FE. (That is they still drive 75+, don't pulse and glide, and basically drive it like they always have). While that 33mpg may not look good to all, it's probably a relatively equal improvement over their past vehicle as many people have never gotten the EPA estimates due to driving habits or unusual or difficult environmental driving conditions.

    You'll also need to decide how dedicated you are to FE. Many become obsessed (at least mildly)yet some totally ignore the gages and energy screens. In other posts I have outlined $$$'s saved between 36 and 39 mpg and from a pure economical view it certainly may not be worth the effort as the savings is small (less than 10% in that case. However if you're coming out of a 16 mpg ride like many of us have and get 39.5 mpg then the savings is significant.

    PS: Sorry you were not in time to get the full tax credit. It motivated me but don't sweat, I would have bought this knowing what I know now with no credit.
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    coolrodcoolrod Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for those great answers. I think I'm getting smarter already! Not to be a pest, but in stop and go rush hour traffic where the average speed is probably about 15 mph, how far can a fully charged battery take one medium sized driver in Electric mode? I didn't even know that there was such a thing. I can't wait to read my drivers manual and learn about all this new technology! Thanks again.
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    You're gonna get lots of "tips" and very convoluted answers here. The short answer is as far as the computer determines you can, based upon many factors, including incline, average speed, amount of charging from the regenerative brakes, how close to maximum charge you are, etc. That is usually about 5-6 miles, going under 30MPH. Doesn't mean the battery couldn't go longer, it just means that's as far as the sophisticated computer program will go on all electric power before kicking in the ICE. ;)

    Just remember you have bought a Hybrid. It was not manufactured to be an EV (Electric Vehicle). It was made to use both gasoline engine and electric motors, to optimize mileage and performance. :)
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    camygcamyg Member Posts: 11
    If you can't wait to read your owners manual and are willing to spend $25, you can sign up for one year on tundrasolutions.com and download the pdf files for the owners manual, the navigation owners manual, and the new car features files (which will give you a lot of information about how the Hybrid System and the car in general works).
    Go to www.tundrasolutions.com and use the link to set up an new account (you can pay with a credit card). Within 24 hours, they will send you an email that confirms you have been setup. Log in to www.tundrasolutions.com and go all the way to the bottom of the page. Choose the "Knowledgebase" link in the blue bar at the bottom. Select "Reference Knowledgebase", then "Owners Manuals", then find the links to the "2007 Toyota Camry HV Owner's Manual" and "2007 Toyota Camry HV Navigation System Manual" and download each. They come in a .zip file of numerous .pdf files. Go back to the "Reference Knowledgebase" page and select "New Car Features & Pricing" and find the "2007 Toyota Camry HV New Car Features" link and download it. Same kind of zip file.
    I have compiled each of these into one pdf file with bookmarks. I am willing to email you the compiled files if you can send me one specified file from each download proving you have signed up and downloaded the original files (I support intellectual rights).
    Hope you find this useful.
    P.S. I have averaged 40.5 mpg on my last seven tankfuls of gas. First two tanks only averaged about 38 to 39 mpg. I personnaly like the TCH better overall than any other car I have ever owned, and I have owned various and numerous cars for over 35 years.
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    coolrodcoolrod Member Posts: 6
    Those are really fantastic answers! Thanks so much for taking the time to fill me in. I went to Tundrasolutions and I was really impressed. I'll start looking through it a little deeper later today. I won't bother you for the files, I'll just get them there. Thanks again. :shades:
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    If you "google" 2006 Murano Owners Manual, you will get several links to it, absolutely free.

    JUST CLICK HERE :)
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    jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    MUch of the same info (I believe) is available at ToyotaiGuide.com for free...owners manual, nav manual, videos showing how things work..pretty cool!
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    agnostoagnosto Member Posts: 207
    Wow, what an awesome vehicle is the 2007 TCH... I just got back from a trip (250 miles both ways) to a Zoo with a load of 4 people and my TANK AVG registered 46.1 MPG with 60-70mph in highway with temperature between 59-65F (my previous best one was 43.5 MPG)... unbelievable, the more I drive it the better the MPG gets, but definitely one needs to know how to drive a Hybrid in order to maximize FE, but the key to successful high MPG is to be patient and do not use the cruise control on the highway and depress the gas pedal very gently especially in up hills, also another technique is to built enough momentum just before approaching an uphill so that it gets you over the hill with minimal possible fuel by maintaining steady speed...

    Also just for the record, if anyone wonders, I keep all 4 tires at 35.5PSI cold (recommended is 32psi).

    For me, the fact is, the 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid is a truly amazing vehicle :)
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    larsblarsb Member Posts: 8,204
    I live in Phoenix and I am on my 30,000th plus mile of running my hybrid(s) tires at near or above the tire's max PSI rating.

    I'll keep on enjoying my 1-2 MPG "overinflation bump" and watching my tires wear perfectly normally. :shades:
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Well, isn't that extra special.... :P

    No one is talking about "wear" but about catastrophic tire failure.

    Like I said, those of you doing that, will never be convinced by scientific or legal fact, and will continue to do so up until you actually cause injury to your loved ones, or are denied coverage by your insurance company. Or both. I have read literally thousands of such cases.

    I hardly think your savings of one or two miles per gallon (What is that anyway? 10 Cents?)is worth the risk of someone I love being severely injured, or being exposed to millions in liability, when insurance company refuses to pay. But thats just me. ;)
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    larsblarsb Member Posts: 8,204
    That's just it - it's all unfounded paranoia.

    Where, exactly, have you read about "thousands of cases" in which tires inflated to Max PSI causing deaths and/or insurance coverage being denied? I'd like to see that data.
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Even if people bother reading the data, (by searching Google or the Insurance Industry Association) they would find an argument against the it, because they believe what they believe, and will justify anything. Period.

    I am not going to be baited into another long-drawn out so-called "discussion" about something so widely reported in the news media over the past twenty years. It has been the subject of several "news magazine" show reports on TV, and widely covered in the auto- trade magazines. During the big Firestone/SUV deal, it was drummed constantly what a danger it was, at least weekly, for over a year.

    If someone "claims" not to know of the dangers of disregarding the auto manufacturers safety guidelines, they must live in a cave somewhere, or be in denial....
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    larsblarsb Member Posts: 8,204
    "tires overinflation lawsuit" landed me a big 81 hits on Google.

    So, as a TCH owner and a previous HCH owner, here's a tip: Do research yourself before adjusting your tire PSI. Don't listen to me telling you not to worry about overinflation and don't listen to those who say overinflation is nothing short of a crime. Do your own research.
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    larsblarsb Member Posts: 8,204
    The Firestone/SUV thing was caused by faulty tires. Not overinflation. If anything, Underinflation was the main contributor to those Ford Exploder/Firestone issues.

    Anyway, moving on...... :shades:
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Quit with your baiting, larsb.

    Anyone reading what I posted, not trying to argue, would realize I was saying it was brought up in addition to the manufacturing defects involved in that case. It was argued in many instances, and proven so, that some of the failures were do to over-inflation.

    Please stop trying to end discussion and just argue and nit pick. It is not productive to these forums, and drives people off.

    Please show all of us something from a tire or automobile manufacturer that says it is okay, that it is safe, to exceed the automobile manufacturers recommended inflation.
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    larsblarsb Member Posts: 8,204
    I already said I am moving on.......

    Back to TCH driving tips:

    I frequently use 34 MPH as a "sweet spot" to get good MPG when the engine is still cold.
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    I'll be creating a TCH Tires/Wheels discussion here, which is where you'll be able to discuss tires for the Camry to your heart's content.

    I've moved the posts that spun off into tires and used them and the starter for the Toyota Camry Hybrid Tire/Wheel Questions discussion.

    Please remember what the topics are supposed to be about when things start to wander. Thanks!
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    pgrokkospgrokkos Member Posts: 8
    Maybe I missed it but is there a way to disable the amber passenger air bag on symbol that appears when someone is sitting in the passenger seat. I assume its there to remind you that kids shouldn't sit there, but its pretty annoying as its right in your field of vision and never turns off.
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    No.

    I suggest ignoring it.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    It would have been nice for it to light up when it was off rather than on.
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    terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Write Congress. :P
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    plknjplknj Member Posts: 121
    Since reading an old posting I started down shifting to 'B' when coming to a stop and when taking turns. It works great and seems to save both gas and my brakes. Just curious if anyone else is doing this?
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    I started down shifting to 'B' when coming to a stop and when taking turns. It works great and seems to save both gas and my brakes

    I'm still not sure the "B" mode works as well (if at all) at charging the battery as compared to using the brake petal. I've not seen a definitive explaination on that.

    I'm not sure how you can assume it's saving on your brakes? My understanding is that using the brakes at any speed over 12 mph, except in emergency stopping, is using the torque on the motor to charge the batteries and NOT using your hydraulic brakes. Under 12 mph, I doubt that B would help much anyway and you'd have to start using your pedal to stop.
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    camygcamyg Member Posts: 11
    My experience is that B uses more gas. If you are coasting down with the ICE off at any speed between approximately 12 mph and 42 mph and you shift to B, it will start the ICE. If the ICE is running, it's using gas. Anticipating your stops when possible and coast, then lightly using the brake pedal has given me the best results. When I had 6000 miles on my car, I could still easily see the factory milling marks on my brake discs, so the hydraulic brakes aren't being used much.
    Also, I have found that reasonably moderate acceleration is better than hard acceleration that some advocate. At approximately 35, 45, and 55 mph, I can let off slightly on the gas pedal and get the transmission to slip into a lower ratio and see the effect by an increase of 5 to 10 mpg on the analog comsumption gauge. If I then press down slightly on the accelerator, mph drops some, but is still well above original. Daytime temp is now averaging about 60 here and I am back up to about 40 - 42 mpg average for a tank full of gas.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    I can let off slightly on the gas pedal and get the transmission to slip into a lower ratio and see the effect by an increase of 5 to 10 mpg on the analog comsumption gauge.

    I think you're simply seeing the engine going to idle, not the transmission going to a different "ratio". The "transmission" or power splitting device in the TCH works similar to a CVT transmission.
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    plknjplknj Member Posts: 121
    Thanks... I wasn't sure what the effect of it all was.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    It's weird when you "rev" the engine and hear it winding up. I'm not used to driving a 4cyl and it is pretty noisy. However unless I'm really goosing it I don't even notice the engine noise. However it is like that Honda (I believe) commercial where the guy makes the shifting noise while his girl is beside him. It's smooth reving but a little noisy. No jerks or downshifts, just smooth acceleration.

    I'm guessing with some of the new 7 speed auto-tranny's you will eventually get to where they will shift so smoothly that they will almost seem like a CVT .
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    camygcamyg Member Posts: 11
    I think you're simply seeing the engine going to idle, not the transmission going to a different "ratio". The "transmission" or power splitting device in the TCH works similar to a CVT transmission.

    Sorry, but I disagree. A CVT transmission still has a varying ratio from power in to power out. The power split device just controls that ratio.
    I also said that I reapply acceleration to get back to about the same accelaration rate as before but the indicated mpg is higher. I have been testing this the middle of last summer and have seen an apparent increase using this method. My current tank average is 42.8 mpg and it's not even that warm yet.
    Like you seem to be, I am very tech oriented. I have read the manuals, including the Body Electrical and related info from Toyota. I understand how this system is supposed to work.
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    wvgasguywvgasguy Member Posts: 1,405
    The power split device just controls that ratio.

    My bad, that's not the way I understood the PSD. Most CVT's (I think) have bands or chains that in effect do change the ratios without actually "shifting"ike a conventional transmission. However the PSD is not a CVT transmission. My understanding of the PSD did not include any information showing that there is a change of "ratios" possible.

    I'm not automotive "techie" so I struggle to totally understand all this.

    http://www.hybridsynergydrive.com/en/power_split_device.html

    This site shows the schematic of the PSD (as well as other techie stuff) and it simply appeared to me that you have a sun and planatary gear connected by the pinion gears. It doesn't show any ratios other than 1. Perhaps this was simply an oversimplified explaination
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