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How to replace power window regulator on a Buick Rendezvous?

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Comments

  • hawkishawkis Member Posts: 1
    well... the window won't go up. I believe the clips are still good as the window is pretty sturdy (no wobbliness to it).

    But, I need help in replacing the motor/regulator. I have the insides of the door exposed, looking at black "framing" inside door (as seen in another posters pictures earlier in thread).

    Do I need to take this whole thing out? Do I need to get the window in the up position? How do I do these things?

    Please help! LOL. Not a "gearhead" by any means... which is unfortunate.

    Thanks to all in advance.
  • fartblossomfartblossom Member Posts: 3
    Thanks to everyone who posted here. I wanted to let any Aztek owners that find this thread by googling know that the same clips are used on Azteks, and the procedure is exactly the same. There isn't a similar thread in the Aztek forum.

    The newer, better clip part numbers are 1593-8039 and 1593-8040. You can tell the difference in that the new ones use black plastic instead of white. 36 and 31 bucks full price. The buick dealer I called wanted 38 and 35, so I called my old Pontiac dealer, (now GMC), and got them cheaper. Took them 1 day to get them in from warehouse.
  • m1ashooter1m1ashooter1 Member Posts: 1
    Any one still wanting to know if these front clips will work on the back doors??

    The answer is YES,,, I just finished installing two on a passenger rear door>>>>>
  • racer77racer77 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for confiming that. My dealer gave me the same answer and wanted $35 each for the 2 clips. GMpartsdirect.com has them for $19 each.

    Dorman aftermarket regulators for the front are at Federated auto parts store for $90 for the whole assembly.
  • tx_5abitx_5abi Member Posts: 1
    Just finished doing this job on the front passenger window. Ordered the parts from gmpartsdirect.com. New parts are made from the same thermoplastic - polyoxymethylene aka Delrin. Part has been redesigned with more, thicker reinforcing ribs. Should last a lot longer.

    To remove the door panel without tools, start by prying at the triangular panel that covers the side mirror access hole / contains tweeter speaker. Once it is pried away, you should be able to pop out the door panel one pin at a time without a screwdriver. Before taking prying off from the last couple of pins, get a helper to hold the panel by the door handle - it's awkward for one person. Be very careful with the window and lock switches - they are delicate. While trying to disconnect the window switch, I actually pulled it apart. I would recommend getting on the ground on your back and using a screwdriver to release the barb socket. The door switch can be popped out intact, but you will likely break one of the retaining tabs in the door panel socket. Once again, release the barb socket with a screwdriver.

    The pictures in post 36 were really useful. The clip on the outer rail is easy. The clip on the inner rail - the side closest to door hinge was harder. I ended up removing the door speaker - the magnet will hold it to the door - no need to disconnect. Then, remove the two bottom screws which hold the rail and motor in place. You should then be able to move the rail to a position where there is enough room to swing the clip over the rail and lock to the barrel.

    I'd like to plug a flashlight that I bought recently and used during this job - gorillatorch. Extremely small, bright, bendable, and rare-earth magnets in the feet.

    gorillatorch

    Thanks to everyone that has posted before - you made this job easy!
  • txsgrl81txsgrl81 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the clips on the left front window of my '02 Rendezvous. Then when I tested it, it was making a loud noise like it was catching on something. I noticed the cable that goes on the wheels/pulleys keeps coming off the track because it is loose. Does anyone know how I can fix it?
  • dimyselfdimyself Member Posts: 1
    Those part numbers do not match. Those part numbers show metal clips. The ones I have are like those in the how-to pictures - they are plastic. Do you have another part number?
  • mechanicgrannymechanicgranny Member Posts: 1
    I am a 64 yr. old granny and with your help I fixed my own window regulator :shades: . I'm on a fixed income so this really helped. If I can do it, anyone can. I'd like to mention that the part #s have been changed from 15286776 to 15938039 and 15286777 to 15938040. Thank you so much for your pictures and posts.
  • alabassteralabasster Member Posts: 1
    Well I got my window clip parts in the mail after about 10 days.
    Looked at both parts and found the black clips to be broken where they fit over the metal nubs that hold them in correct position horizontally in the assembly. Looks like the black plastic pieces were just shoved on all the way they could go resulting in the breaks.
    I looked at the existing clips to see how they were supposed to be.
    Planning to ask for refund and then get the parts locally unless they will overnight new ones to me.
  • vtraudtvtraudt Member Posts: 52
    edited October 2012
    I stock quite a few clips and stumbled over this thread (trying to get some help for a customer with Buick Roadmaster).

    Noticed that the clips discussed here resemble some I have in stock.

    Does anybody have a good picture of the clips?

    Are they similar to those below? If so, which are needed?

    If there is any chance they might fit, I would provide a 'guniea' pig with a pair (against the promise to provide a DIY write up/photos to post up here).

    Contact me at:

    regulatorfix@gmail.com

    http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe5.jp- g

    http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe3.jp- g

    http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe2.jp- g

    http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe1.jp- g

    http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g323/regulatorfix/GM/BuickRendevousmaybe6.jp- g
  • totengraebertotengraeber Member Posts: 1
    My 02 Rendevous had the problem of broken plastic clips. I bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GEBYS20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Under $9 later, and my driver window works. The plastic clips broke, so, the metal things with rubber pads that you snug up to the window were on the window. I taped the window to the door and removed the whole assembly. I attached the plastic clips to the regulator. I put the regulator assembly back in, and I started all the 10mm bolts that hold the regulator in place. I then lowered the window to get the metal things with the rubber dodads that hold your window. I adjusted the regulator to where I'd have easy access to the 10mm bolts to snug up the window in those clamps. I did that and tightened down the regulator with it's five 10mm bolts. I'd say it was about a 45min job to tear down the door, fix it, and put it back together. The tricky part was figuring out how it all fit together, which way the plastic clips are facing, and etc. You'll find that they can only go one way.
  • GadgetGirl1963GadgetGirl1963 Member Posts: 1
    ladybug35 said:

    I saw some discussion regarding the window clips on a Buick Rendezvous, I need some help. My driver's side window went all the way down and will not go up, the motor is still working, someone had mentioned that the clips need to be replaced and after reading some discussion on this I believe that is what I need to do, however, I do not know what part I need to order. The dealership said the cost is $200 for the Regulator. Someone help me please, I do not need the entire kit. I THINK I only need the clip. Anyone have any suggestions???? :confuse:

    I just replaced ALL FOUR power window motors, regulators and cable assemblies for $197 TOTAL. I bought the parts on Ebay, brand new with a 10 year warranty. I had never done this before, only held the window glass for my boyfriend when he had to replace one on his Sebring. The first door took me a little over an hour to do because I had to figure out which size socket I needed to pull the door panel off. The other doors took me less than 45 minutes each to do. Now if I can do it in 45 minutes in my driveway, and having to search for the right tools because I didn't know what I needed, there's no reason a mechanic at a dealership should take longer than 30 minutes per window.

    This has to be the most outrageous abuse of overcharging I've ever seen for a repair. The repair shop where I live told me it would take and hour to and hour and a half per window, and wanted $400 per window! It's not hard to do at all. Yeah, it takes a little maneuvering to get the cable assembly in, but all in all, this is one of the easiest repairs you can do. And you could probably find the cheap plastic regulator clips online somewhere, but if you're going to go to all the trouble to remove the door panels, you might as well replace the entire assembly while you're at it. I had 3 out of the 4 motors/regulators go out in my in less than 4 months, boom, boom, boom. I replaced the entire assembly on all four for less than half what the shop wanted to do just one.
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