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Dodge Dakota Braking Problems
Stop here to stop your Dak
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
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showing the classic signs of master cylinder problems
( brake pedal would slowly go to floor while sitting at light.) dealer replaced master cylinder....same problem.
dealer then replaced power booster...brakes are soft , some pedal drop off is noticed but does not go to floor , and now notice a faint double hissing noise near the power booster/brake pedal area ...( like fluid being forced through a line and then returnning without letting up on the pedal. did dealer get a faulty replacement part , or improper bleeding or is there yet another possible problem?
Brake adjustment has very little to do with ABS light.
The ABS light can come on for FARRR MORE than a simple brake problem. Oftentimes it is because a diagnostic fault has been detected in the hydrolic system. Also the sensor screwed into the rear differential can cause ABS faults. If the tires on the vehicle are not EXACTLY the same size as the factory reccomends, that can also trigger ABS faults. (Per factory shop manual - Changing tire size requires reprogramming the ABS system to compensate)
I wonder if you have been replacing your brake fluid every 2-3 years? If not, then your brake system is likely to be full of corrosion. This can lead to very expensive ABS repairs.
BTW: I have replaced the brake fluid at least 2 times on my 2000 Dak... it only takes about an hour in my driveway and one can of fluid. (I use a vacuum bleeder)
If the light is coming on when you first start up (truck has not even moved) Then that fact can help isolate the source of the problem.
Have you checked to see if the ABS light will come on by just turning on the key and NOT starting the engine? (This would show that the ABS diagnostics are failing some basic check) You should be able to "pull the code" to see what is throwing the error.
A reputable brake shop should be able to tell you if that is indeed the problem. If it isn't, they may have a good idea where to start. If it is, it shouldn't be too pricey of a fix. Good Luck!
Since your speedometer is not working... this means that the ECU does not know the speed of the vehicle. (It is the ECU which drives the speedometer and feeds roadspeed signal into the ABS computer.)
There is a roadspeed sensor which feeds a signal into the ECU.
In other words, the path of roadspeed signal is as follows;
Sensor ==> ECU ==> speedometer & ABS system
Given the above, I would suggest you replace the roadspeed sensor (screwed into the rear differential) This may fix ALL of the problems you describe.
BTW: I'm not certain if your 1996 Dak has the sensor screwed into the rear differential or screwed into the xmission housing...I guess you will find out 8-)
To do the job right, there is a certain amount of skill and attention to detail.
For example, when replacing disk brake pads, if the sliding surfaces are not filed smooth and lubricated with approprate hi-temp lube, you may encounter pads which do not retract properly.
Another example would be to ensure that the sliding pins are lubricated with rubber-lube so the "fully floating" calipers truly do float as expected.
Sitting in my dirt driveway, I can do each front wheel in under an hour. (even quicker when my wife helps!)
Regards,
Dusty
Also, I have always used 2 screwdrivers to get at the starwheel to adjust the drum-brakes. (Volkswagen drum brakes use a spring-loaded wedge ... really threw me for a loop the first time I tried looking for the starwheel on my VW pickup-truck)
Cheers,
dataguru (Bill)
Best regards,
Dusty
I would really appreciate any help you can give me.
Thanks
Digitalclone
"P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow"
All vehicles sold in the USA must have the OBDII (OnBoard Diagnostics version2). The EEC "Evaporative Emission Control" system is part of the federal-mandated OBDII.
For problems with the EEC system. Please use search Edmunds to find my very detailed explanation about what it does and its possible failure modes.
HINT: The purge flow test detected an incorrect value. The most common cause is gascap is not clicked at least 3 times -or- is defective.
If - After you have read and understood the EEC system and you still need some help - Dont hesatate to ask specific questions about your Dak. pertaining to your P0441 code.
ALSO: This specific forum is for BRAKING ISSUES - you may get more help in one of the other Dakota forums here on Edmunds.
I one of the systems springs a leak, the pedal will move closer to the floor and a sensor will detect an imbalance between the 2 systems and turn on the brake light.
Suggest you have the brake system thoroughly inspected.
Suggest you get some QUALITY front rotors. (Raybestos or Bendix) and always use torquewrench on lugnuts.
You asked when we replaced our front brakes... my origianl rotors were junk after about 1 year. I then installd expensive POWERSLOT rotors thinking they would be better. Here is what happend to POWERSLOT rotors after 3 winters. Once the cool-looking plating wears off, the unterlying metal is junk.
I then installed Bendix rotors and they are still going strong after 6 years. I also used ceramic-based pads to reduce the black dust buildup.
I got 52,000 miles out of my 2003 Dakota's factory rotors and the pads could' ve gone even farther. I installed the factory components and after 25,000 miles they are doing fine and should go at least that distance.
Dakota people I've talked to have gotten varied results out of the various aftermarket rotors, but although I've had some tell me they swear by Powerslots I know two Dakota owners that had the same results as Bpeebles did.
Since I haven't personally experimented with rotors or pads beyond factory components, I would defer to Bpeebles recommendation, especially being up there in Vermont where the environment is probably more severe than most other areas of the northeast.
The only comment I would make is if you chose to use factory rotors I would highly recommend using the factory pads. Pad friction materials are matched by the manufacturers to the rotor for optimum performance and longevity.
Best regards,
Dusty
I now have Raybestos premium rotors and Bendix titanium metallic 2 pads on the front. Only been on there for 8000 miles but so far no warping and squealing yet so they already have the mopar rotors beat in quality. I'd say on these trucks it's a waste of time and money to resurface the rotors or use factory replacements. Soon as you get vibration just replace them and forget about it.
Any idea what could be causing this? I had my brakes checked and cleaned recently and the problem keeps happening. Thanks!
If there's still drag then the calipers are probably frozen.
In very, very rare cases, the master cylinder or proportioning valve might not be releasing.
Regards,
Dusty
Someone mentioned electrical with the abs, another said master cylinder... I am out of warranty and can't afford to put it in the shop for a week. Any help would be greatly appriciated.
Thanks Peter
I have had front calipers on my Dak. get "stickie" and not realease properly. However, I have not seen BOTH sides fail at the same time.
Since calipers are known to get stickie, you may wish to first examine them BEFORE digging into electrical or ABS components.