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Dodge Ram Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, what kind of weight are you towing and for what distances?

    What are the failure symptoms?

    Who is doing the rebuilds?

    Dusty
  • jdoug68jdoug68 Member Posts: 2
    weight varies from empty 42' gooseneck to 7 horses in same gooseneck. distances anywhere from 150 mile oneway to 1500 mile round trips.

    symptoms failure of over drive twice and last time loss of all forward gears from dead stop with empty trailer.

    Service Dodge dealership
  • morganvmorganv Member Posts: 49
    Idon't know how much a diesel ram can tow, but our friends with diesel Rams tow as much as you do and more havent had any trasmission problems. gOod friends of ours have a 5 or 6 year RAm that has over 150,000 miles and still going strong. Your failures seem unusual. We tow a 36 ft equispirit ,a 6 horse trails west and a Hart. all of these trailers are over 7000 lb empty. when we get our Morgan's loaded our Rams are sometimespulling over 15000 lbs and thats with the gas motors. we've had absolutely no transmission problems and one of our rams has just turned 90,000 miles. since our experiences with the pOwer strokes weve gotten completely away from diesels. ithink maybe you need another dealer,

    Morgan
  • trendkillertrendkiller Member Posts: 4
    ?????????? my transmission was leaking, so i removed it to fined my torque converter was stuck on the tranny, with some effort i was able to free it. the spring on the front seal had came off and there seemed to be no other damage so i replaced the seal and the truck ran beautiful for about ahalf an hour. all at once the transmission started leaking again. i made some calls and someone had told me that the front pump assembly could be worn out and not spinning true causing my front seal to leak.if anyone has any info on this please reply. thank u
  • trendkillertrendkiller Member Posts: 4
    ???????? anyone with some info please reply thank u
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your 2006 Cummins RAM has the 48RE automatic. This is a very robust design utilizing 5-pinion planetary gearsets, heavy clutches and hardened components giving this transmission a torque capacity of just over 900 lbs. ft. This transmission is more than adequate to handle the new Cummins diesel and I'm not aware of any failures to date locally. They most certainly are not falling apart by legions.

    I don't know what you're total weight is on a fully loaded horse trailer of that size, but if you've lost the overdrive unit twice it indicates that you've been using the overdrive. An empty trailer alone of that size warrants switching the overdrive off, per the instructions found in the operator's manual. This would be the same for an Allison 1000 series, by the way, or a E4OD, or 5R110, or a TorqueShift.

    As far as your last failure, my first guess would be that the transmission cooling tank and probably the lines have been packed with loose clutch friction material, possibly clogged the anti-drain back valve, and choked fluid flow causing overheating and something to break. Whenever a transmission has burned clutches or lost an OD unit, the lines and tank should be flushed and the anti-drain back valve should be replaced (not cleaned). Pump failures or broken input shafts are very rare on Mopars. Maybe a broken sun gear. But if that's the case on a vehicle with that few mileage...and already been apart twice...I'd be suspicious of abuse.

    If you think Allison 1000s are better I'm here to tell you differently. They will lose third gear when stressed and burn overdrive clutches just like any other OD transmission. They also suffer from premature pump gear and torque converter cover bushing failures. In fact, there are at least two aftermarket suppliers of improved bushings for the Allison. Shops are seeing valve body wear causing irratic shifting as well. People not getting the expected life out of an 1000 series has caused Allison to recently recommend use of their own special Transynd ATF instead of Dexron-Mercon III.

    Allison, Chrysler, Ford, GM and others do not put a O/D or Tow/Haul switch on the end of the gearshift just for grins. Towing heavy loads in overdrive will cause excessive wear on the clutch facings and over heat the steels from low clutch apply pressures.

    Follow the manufacturers recommendations for towing AND maintenance and any of the automatics will perform well for better than a 100,000 miles before overhaul.

    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, a few questions:

    1. How many miles on this transmission?

    2. Has this transmission ever been apart, meaning the transmission or torque converter removed.

    3. Has this transmission had regular maintenance (filter replacement and/or fluid flush).

    4. When you had the transmission out and the torque converter removed, did you inspect the end of the input shaft closely, noticing for scrathes, burrs, or other signs of damage? If you had a hard time removing the torque converter you might have scratched or burred the shaft. The converter seals are completely intolerant of shaft damage. Also, did you apply any ATF to the seal before you reinstalled it? Running the seal dry will damage the seal in the first few minutes of transmission operation at restart.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • trendkillertrendkiller Member Posts: 4
    dusty thanks for the reply. to answer your questions 1. there is 80,000 miles on it. 2.all i know is that the previous owner had put a shift kit in it when he had buoght it new. 3. i only had the truck for about 8 monthes but i heard he kept up good maintinaince on it. 4. yes i did put atf on the seal. and there was acouple little marks on the torgue converter but nothing that seemed seriuos. is there any thing u can think of on this or is it possible it is the front pump assembly?????? your knoledge on this would be helpfull thanks man. trendkiller [brian]
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, most shift kits don't require transmission removal, so that's probably a good thing.

    Do I think it's the pump assembly. Hmmm, I guess it could be. Are you sure that the leak is at the rear of the torque converter? How are you deducing this? Torque converters can leak in several places. I'm more likely to suspect the front pump seal, to be honest with you.

    If you're convinced that the input shaft area where the seal rides is smooth, then at this point excessive shaft end play is a possibility. But I'm still a little suspicious you could have a problem related to the surface condition of the shaft or maybe damaged caused by re-installation. Not hard to do, so don't feel bad.

    There are a couple of checks you can make.

    Torque Converter Seating Depth

    1. Remove the transmission and invert in a stand (output shaft downwards. Leave the torque converter in the transmission.

    2. Using a straighedge placed across flange of the bell housing, measure the distance to the flex plate mounting bosses. It should be 0.500 inch.

    Input Shaft End Play

    1. Place the transmission on a bench.

    2. This really requires a special tool set, but attach a dial indicator to the bell housing and measure to the end of the shaft. Pulling upwards on the shaft there should be between 0.34 and 0.84 inch movement. Anything outside this is excessive end play.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Oh, by any chance did the previous owner use an aftermarket synthetic transmission fluid or a "shift improver" additive?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • trendkillertrendkiller Member Posts: 4
    thanks for the info. ill do those things u told me, but im also going to take a better look at the torque converter, making sure the shaft is smooth. thank u for the help and ill give an update soon.
  • pamattpamatt Member Posts: 2
    I am about to purchase a ram 2500 with a 5.9 gas engine, and an automatic tranny. The problem is the transmission, when shifted into any gear the truck does nothing. the filter is clean, but the fluid is burnt smelling. Is this the clutches? I believe the pump is fine because when shifting from park you can hear the motor loading. If i buy a good master rebuild kit will it fix the problem, I dont have the cash for a professional rebuild.
  • manipulatorsmanipulators Member Posts: 7
    Hey guys:

    I purchased a 2007 Ram 1500 2wd Hemi auto quad cab three weeks ago. I just turned 1000 miles on it.

    A couple of days after I got it, I noticed it would pop out of reverse about once out of every 7-8 times I put it in reverse. I put it in reverse, let off the brake, it goes about 3 feet, then pops out. At this point it is not in any gear because nothing is lit on the dash. It only does this the first time, once put in reverse a second time, it has never came back out. I have been monitoring it, and it seems random, it doesnt matter whether I am on flat ground, and incline, etc.

    I took it to the dealer, and the said there are no service bulletins for this, and that they did not get any codes from the computer. They tested it extensively and could not get it to pop out while at the dealership.

    Since they could not find anything, I got the truck back and am stuck with this problem for now. Any ideas out there about what may cause this, and what I should do next?
  • inthebooniesintheboonies Member Posts: 2
    Dealer says used PCM cannot be reprogrammed. Does this make sense? The original PCM had been replaced for tranny problem but I stil have it. Am I better off getting that reprogrammed for tranny problem. Problem was no 1st gear with old PCM.
  • inthebooniesintheboonies Member Posts: 2
    When I bought my 00 Ram2500 the PCM had been replaced with a used one for tranny problem (no 1st gear). The used PCM gives me an ABS problem since it does not recognize VIN of truck. Dealer says that the cannot be reprogrammed but I need a new PCM.
    Should I find a new dealer? Which PCM would be better to reprogram?

    Dave
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I must correct a couple of things from my post #107 regarding the Chrysler-built 48RE automatic transmission used behind the Cummins Diesel engine.

    The 48RE uses 6-pinion planetary gearsets, not the five I stated earlier. Five were used in the 47RE.

    The torque rating of the 48RE according to Dodge truck is 770 lbs. ft, but according to ATRA data it's 804. In any event this makes the 48RE very capable behind the Cummins. (Compare this to the 610 of the Allison 1000 series.) It is widely believed that the 48RE was over built for the current Cummins series in anticipation future increases in Cummins torque. The new six speed 68RFE uses much of the same power transfer architecture as the 48RE which it is being replaced by.

    Compared to the 47RE that was used on previous Cummins' equiped versions, the 48RE incorporates the following improvements:

    6-pinion billet steel planetary gearsets

    Five clutch Direct Clutch with specially hardened Drum

    Six heavier (thicker) Overdrive Clutches with a 25% increase in apply pressure

    Twenty-Three Direct Clutches

    Heavier Intermediate Shaft, specially hardened, with increase in band apply pressure permitting a 22% increase in 2nd gear torque capacity

    Increased Overdrive Direct Clutch apply pressures

    Thicker and specially hardened Sun Gear Shell

    Increased hardening of the Sun Gear

    Improved steel, Nitride heat treated Input Shaft and Hub

    Thicker Front and Rear Ring Gear made from select steel, Nitride hardened

    Wider and thicker Band Struts, specially hardened

    Wider Front Band and Drum

    Wider Intermediate Bands

    Many other uses of special steels and increase use of hardened materials to mention.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    E-gads! Did they check anything?

    This could very easily be a transmission selector cable adjustment.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The dealer might be right, but you deserve an explanation. Have him explain that to you.

    If the old PCM was replaced for a no 1st gear issue, I would expect that to be a hard problem. But if the old one works, then the old PCM wasn't causing the no 1st gear problem!!

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, run the gearshift through the gears and check for drive in each position, including reverse. If you have no drive in any gear, move the gear selector slightly off of each position and see if there's drive. If so, the gear selector cable is loose or out of adjustment. It could also be stuck, so check that the gear selector cable is moving at the transmission. This problem is not uncommon on REs.

    Don't rely on a visual inspection to determine if the filter is cleaning. Replace it, especially if you suspect the fluid is burnt.

    You could have a parking sprag that's not releasing. This is occasionally seen on RE-series transmissions with high mileage in cold weather.

    You could also have a bad torque converter, although usually they make some kind of noise when rev'ed if it's a turbine blade issue. There could be something broken inside, like a Sun Gear or Shell, a shaft or a broken band strut or band, but often times there's some kind of noise.

    Could be a failed pump because of excessive friction or other foreign material packed into it. I would more suspect a blown front pump seal, though, because that's a common failure mode. You can test the pump pressure from outside the transmission with the correct tools.

    Or you could have a clogged valvebody.

    The electrical connections at the transmission should be checked for corrosion. This was a very common problem on that vintage RAM. Also, check the fuses. A blown fuse can shut the transmission down.

    Good luck.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    There are more and more transmissions being repaired or rebuilt nowadays using off-shore replacement parts. In general these are often inferior to factory parts and suffer from improper material selection, poor machining, poor heat treating or hardening, or all three.

    Be wary of low rebuild prices, especially if parts are required for the repair. If a input shaft is priced at $60, you can be sure this is an off-shore piece. Same for gasket and seal sets.

    A quality rebuild should go at least 100,000 miles before overhaul unless the transmission was abused or not maintenanced correctly. At overhaul, a good job also includes performing all of the upgrades. Dodge truck owners should be especially cautious.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • cfd428cfd428 Member Posts: 9
    My turn to ask the gods a question

    Well I just bought a 2001 Ram 2500 4X4 34,500 miles seems well kept ,and I bought it from a little old man (Honestly) anyway Tonight I noticed a clunk sound from the rear end when starting from a dead stop. But it only seems to be if the front tires are turned to make the truck start moving while turning to either side. L or R when starting off in a straight line there doesnt seem to be a problem . I checked the U joint but it seems fine. I even put the truck in neutral and moved it slowly by hand. in the driveway, There is a definite *****Binding then a clunk ***at an interval about 1/2 the rotation of the rear tire that seems worse on the side of the direction the truck is turning
    I checked the gear oil its fine 3/4 inch below fill hole. To dark tonight to mess anymore .So I thought I would get the advice of the people who know.
    Any Ideas what may be going bad, and how about a worse case secenario .if the rear end is shot how much should I expect to dish out for a quality repair. thanks All steve
  • timczatimcza Member Posts: 2
    I too have a 07 I bought in Dec. with this problem. I thought maybee I was just not getting it into gear all the way, but if I'm not the only one, it's not me. I just started to look and see if I should take it in and I guess the answer is yes. If I get a different answer I'll let you know
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hi Steve,

    Are there any signs of axle lubricant leaking from either the pinion seal (input shaft to the differential) or at the rear wheels?

    Look for the equipment label on the inside of the glove box door. Does this vehicle have limited slip differential?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Tim,

    Unless Dodge is experiencing some kind of new component quality issue, I would suspect the gear selector cable being out of adjustment. I have seen this a couple of times over the last five years.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • zekthedeadcowzekthedeadcow Member Posts: 1
    I reciently bought a 98 Ram at a thrift store auction so I atleast AM expecting some issues... but it started with the overdrive slipping out at cruise speed (70mph) last week but thought it was a switch or a fuse as this thing is gunky in the dashboard... and came with a lot of fuse and switch problems.

    today however it started slipping in and out at around 60mph so I got off the freeway and drove home at 40mph with no problems...

    I open the hood and 'low and behold' a bottle of transmission fluid is already sitting in there, I check the fluid level and it's way over filled. I check the bottle and it's dexron/mercon...

    so my hope is... if I actually put the right fluid in is there anyhope that these problems might go away? or is it likely toast?
  • cfd428cfd428 Member Posts: 9
    Hi dusty
    No signs of leaks anywhere lube at about 3/4 inch below fill hole
    Yes it does have the limited slip
    tag says Front Dana 60-2
    4.10
    Rear Dana M60 HD anti spin diff.
    thanks for your time and advice
    Steve
  • timczatimcza Member Posts: 2
    Dusty,
    I sure hope it's something like that. I really like this truck.I can't get it in till next week. Thanks
    Tim
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I suspect you already know, but Dexron-Mercon is liquid death to a Chrysler transmission.

    If the transmission fluid is low it can cause your symptom. Will adding the correct amount of ATF+3 or ATF+4 hurt. No. But I suspect, especially if you've got a leak, that Dexron-Mercon has been used in the past and that usually eats away seals and gasket material.

    You could try a complete flush and replace the filter. With a power flush there's a risk that you'll break a lot of sediment away and cause the valve body to clog. A non-power flush might be okay, but the condition of the vehicle indicates poor care and Dexron-Mercon has probably been in there too long.

    If you do flush, make sure the anti-drain back valve is replaced.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • cfd428cfd428 Member Posts: 9
    Dusty,
    I checked the front axle too. Looks like there is some contamination in the fluid and the gasket is crispy on the top like someone over tightened the bolts. the back axle seems normal.(other than the noise) Its time to change everything (fluids) anyway (Trans,transfer case and both axles. as I dont know what the last owner did for sure. Hopefully once thats done I can see what problems still exist. I did buy a used car warranty last night just in case. I may be glad I did
    thanks steve
  • mark_1975mark_1975 Member Posts: 1
    hello, i'm not sure whats wrong with my truck but I can't back up i tried putting it in neutral then switch to 4x4 then put it back to reverse, still doesn't back up...please tell me whats wrong....
  • drhodiedrhodie Member Posts: 1
    Hello all.. I have a '04 2500 quad cab 4x4 cummins. had all the regular maint. done at the dealership. just turned 74,000 today. two weeks ago the transmission started slipping (if accelerating with a feeling like the truck's parking brake is still engaged is considered slipping.) took 2 1/2 weeks to get the truck into the dealership for a diagnosis. got a call today saying it is the torque converter and will cost $3900 for the dealership to fix or $6500 to get a refurbished tranny with 3 years or 36,000 mile warranty. I'm wondering if this is something I've done or does this "just happen"? never pulled anything with this truck, have been shopping for a travel trailer, now I don't know. what are my options outside of a Dodge dealership etc? as luck would have it, my warranty expired 4,000 miles ago, roughly the time I tried to get into the dealership to get this looked at. and to add insult to injury the wifey is expecting, our first, in about 2 weeks and I'm stressed beyond belief.

    thanks for any advice.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Mark,

    It would be very helpful if you could include the year, model, engine, mileage, whether 2-wheel or 4-wheel drive and maintenance history. Different engines in the RAM often use different transmissions.

    This could be something as easy as the gearshift linkage or cable out of adjustment, or a number of internal component issues. Since it's winter time you could likely have a stuck parking sprag.

    A little more information would help.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I would recommend that you plead your case with Chrysler and see if they would split the cost of repair. If you have had the required maintence done at the dealership they usually are a little more receptive to going to bat for you.

    Remain calm when you ask for consideration. Dealership service managers are prone to be less sympathetic to a customer's cause if the customer starts mean mouthing the dealership or the manufacturer. Remember, if you go in saying I'll never buy another Dodge, Chrysler's got nothing to lose by denying you.

    Worth a try, especially since you are just 4K out of warranty.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • manipulatorsmanipulators Member Posts: 7
    Hi Guys:

    I have an update on my 07 Ram. I have noticed that there is a slight delay from the time I shift the selector into reverse and the transmission engages. I would say between 1-2 seconds.

    I have started deliberately waiting about 3-4 seconds before letting my foot off the brake and rolling back, and it has not popped out for over a week now. It was doing it daily when I would let my foot off immediately.

    Hey Timcza: give this a shot, it would be interesting to see if it helps yours too.
  • manipulatorsmanipulators Member Posts: 7
    Here are a few more people having similar issues with their 07 Rams.

    http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_747070/tm.htm
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    TSB 21-007-06, dated 7 April 2006.

    Symptom

    The customer may experience an initial delayed shift engagement following an extended off (not running) period of time, generally after being parked overnight. The initial shift engagement may feel like a delay or slip when the transmission gear (reverse or drive) is first selected after engine start.

    Although this problem may be detected during the initial selection of a forward gear, most field complaints indicate that the symptom is more noticeable going into reverse.

    Associated DTCS:

    P0944
    P0731
    P0736
    P0841

    This problem is being attributed to a defective Cooler Return Filter, PN 04799662AB, which may cause the Transmission Sump Filter to split.

    These filters were installed in 45RFE or 545RFE transmissions between 11 February 2005 and 22 August 2005, or as part of a transmission maintenance from dealer stock.

    NOTE: All Cooler Filters with the "AB" suffix are suspect.

    This also affects aftermarket filters.

    If the suspect Cooler Return Filter is found in the transmission, both the Cooler Return Filter AND the Transmission Sump Filter must be replaced together.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rambo57rambo57 Member Posts: 7
    Automatic Transmission Problems

    I have been having shifting problems for a while now. The transmission sometimes wouldn't switch into high unless I revved the engine up and quickly let off the gas. On several occassions, even this didn't work.

    I put my truck in the shop, they hooked it up to diagnostics and couldn't find anything. As a result they said that it must be mechanical and not electrical. They recommended replacing the transmission!

    Since this was going to be a very expensive fix, I decided to hold off for a while. The strange thing is that when I picked my truck up that afternoon, it shifted perfectly. It continued to shift without problem for the next several months. This indicated to me that it could be electrical instead of mechanical. Is it possible that connecting the diagnostics actually caused me to have a better electrical connection?

    The bad news is, the problem has returned and it seems to be more severe, sometimes not shifting out of 1st and consistently not shifting into high. I can usually get it to shift out of 1st by manually cycling thru the gears with the shifter. Could this have something to do with the speed controller, electrical connections or could this be the end of my transmission? Any suggestions on what I could try before replacing the transmission would be appreciated!

    Thanks!
  • hours2xhours2x Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 dodge cummings diesel that when going into drive or overdrive or up hill and appling power it shutters just for a second but mash throttle on down it smooths out.Any suggestions? Also when Engine/trans is cold and you pull it into gear it will sometimes not move but rev engine up and it slams into gear and will pull and it will do this if you stop,change from forward to reverse and visa versa for the 1st 3 to 5 min. of operation depending on the outside temp. Warmer weather it does better with hessitation and shuttering.I have changed fluid and filter many,many times over 5000 mile stretch .I have tried recommended ATF and all the way to Allison Trans Synthetic at $48 a gallon Which does help it some.($144+tax in just fluid per change) Please Help :cry:
  • angus89angus89 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 94 dodge ram 2500 4x4 that I just had the reverse fixed at a dealership and 2 days later the whole transmission went.. I have been searching for one for weeks, with no luck at all...I just finished taking the old one out...I just need to find another at a decent price...Im 17 and cant afford a whole lot after paying 542.00 for the reverse and it only lasting 2 days with no refund or warrenty...so I need all the help I can get and advice...
    Thanks in advance..
    JT
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    This problem could be the Throttle Position Cable and associated linkage. Electrical connectors and terminals at the transmission should be inspected for any signs of corrosion and cleaned or replaced.

    An irratic Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) can also produce irratic shifting symptoms. An intermittent TPS usually doesn't throw a code.

    Of course fluid level or fluid flow issues, as well as poor ATF quality or a dirty filter can cause this problem, too. Or if Dexron-Mercon fluid has been added at one time.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    How many miles on this transmission and what is the maintenance and repair history?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Angus,

    Do you know what the dealership replaced or repaired?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • angus89angus89 Member Posts: 4
    yes, they replaced the piston,spring, the snap ring, seal plug, filter and fluid
  • angus89angus89 Member Posts: 4
    yes, they replaced the piston,spring, the snap ring, seal plug, filter and fluid
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Unfortunately that's a little ambiguious, but I suspect it might be an accumulator piston and spring (?). If so that doesn't require complete disassembly.

    It's hard comment without more information.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • angus89angus89 Member Posts: 4
    That is what the invoice they gave me said...well what Im looking for is a transmission..Mine is done for and already out of the truck...
  • rammitrammit Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 2500 Ram and when I put it in Drive it seems to start in 3 or 4 gear. When I put it in to 1st gear it has no problem going into it then I put it in 2nd its still fine. For some reason when I put it into Drive it starts out real slow then reaches 60 with no problem but it never shifts. Also when I bought it the guy I got it from said he had the tranny replaced. Any help I would appreciate it. Also the Over drive button only lights up sometimes and the person who had it befor me cut all the radio wires and I hooked up my radio and wires best I could do. Also it only has 72k miles.
  • danv1danv1 Member Posts: 2
    Greetings,

    I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 w/ a 5.9L.(140,000 mi) Yesterday it took off at 30 mph and accelerated on it's own. Burned up my brakes trying to slow it down. Unhooked battery and problem went away. No check engine light. Could throttle postition sensor and/or connector be bad? I'm afraid to drive it again. Thanks.
  • hours2xhours2x Member Posts: 4
    320,000 serviced every 25,000 miles
  • hours2xhours2x Member Posts: 4
    i have seen turbo,s go bad and cause this problem with Macks. It sucks oil from engine and burns it but usually smokes big time.I am not sure if this can happen to a cummins though.
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