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Dodge Ram Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • oscarcoscarc Posts: 5
    Yes, I believe so, just drop the pan, remove the filter and there should be 2 sensors right there. I think it cost me under $100 for the parts when I did it. You can always google the removal, lots of pictures of the sensors and stuff. Mine was slipping and had a hard time going into 3rd or OD but that seemed to correct a lot of the issues.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You may also want to set the parking brake before you shift to Park. My 1996 Ram 3500 diesel was cranky like that as well. When the truck has the opportunity to "rock" after it's shifted to Park, you can cause extra wear on the unit.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • marty740marty740 Posts: 1
    did u find the problem because mine just did same thing
  • I set the parking break, Then start the truck, Then put it in neutral and warm it up, Then after about five minutes the truck will move. I was told that it could be the low line pressure solenoid, I was told this from a Transmission shop.
  • I set the parking break, Then start the truck, Then put it in neutral and warm it up, Then after about five minutes the truck will move. I was told that it could be the low line pressure solenoid, I was told this from a Transmission shop.
  • pawpaw454pawpaw454 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 pu the tranny is slipping in the forward gears till yo get to 35 to 40 mph the. It shifts just fine till you put it in park then it all starts over again any help would. E great
  • guythunderguythunder Posts: 19
    You might want to check out You Tube they have some videos about our transmision, And how to fix some of the problems, Some you can do yourself wich I thought was great. Just type in your year truck and trasmision repair. And see where it tale you.
    Check out this site......www.youtube.com/user/CascadeTransParts
  • ron227ron227 Posts: 1
    My 01 Dodge diesel overdrive started jumping in and out of overdrive between 45 and 50 mph or so last year. I changed fluid and filter and it didn't help. Now when I come to a stop it slips
    requiring more throttle, after a few seconds and a gain in speed it will hook up and be fine.
    This happens somewhat intermittently, one day it seems fine the next two days it will slip.
    Your advice will be appreciated.
  • guythunderguythunder Posts: 19
    You know I found a lot of info on our transmission's on You Tube, Just type in your truck and transmission and check out the video' s. You might need to go threw a few before you find what you are looking for. And these are the people that put out some of the videos, And they will answer your questions........www.CascadeTransmissionParts.com
  • guythunderguythunder Posts: 19
    You said that I could Coogle to find out how to remove two sensors in my trasmission. Could;d you tell me what to ask Google.?
  • guythunderguythunder Posts: 19
    You said that I could Coogle to find out how to remove two sensors in my trasmission. Could you tell me what to ask Google.?
  • oscarcoscarc Posts: 5
    I think you have the 47RE transmission. It's real simple (if you don't mind getting messy).

    If Edmunds lets me post links then here is a step by step on a 47RE

    h-t-t-p://w-w-w.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-repairs-replacements/381985-47re-- governor-solenoid-sensor-swap-pics.h-t-m-l

    **** Notice the - - - on http, www, and html? Remove those when you paste on your browser... that should take you directly to it....

    If not then google "47RE Governor Pressure Solenoid" , you can click on images and you should see all kinds...

    Please note that I am assuming that you have the 47RE transmission.

    Good Luck :)
  • I had an automatic w/overdrive that burnt up / continually slipped and would not move the truck. I finally located another "USED" tranny that seems to be doing the same thing, but was operating without any problems in the other truck. When the engine and transmission are cool, the transmission is very stong and shifts without hesitation. As they warm up to operating temp, the problems start.

    Once warm, and the tranny in gear, the engine will not get over 2500 to 3000 rpm's if I try to give it more gas. I have to get the rpm's up to 2500 to 3000 and then let off for the tranny to [non-permissible content removed] into 2nd. Once in 2nd I have to feather the gas pedal to keep the tranny from dropping back into 1st. I haven't been able to get the tranny to shift into 3rd. The only way that the engine will Rev / Tach Up when they are warm, is to have it in PARK or Neutral.

    I have been reading others talking about the posibilities of bad Throttle Positioners, Torque Converter, other sensors and the Check Valve at the Cooler.

    Any ideas or sugestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • guythunderguythunder Posts: 19
    Oscarc, thanks for the info On the pressure Solenoid for the 47R Transmission, I have been told by others that this might be my problem. So one more question for you, Is this something that I can install myself I do most of my own work on my truck but have never tried the transmission. Or is there a site that shows how to install it.? I know I am a little late with this reply so forgive me. Thanks. :cry:
  • terry122terry122 Posts: 2
    My tranny was doing good the I stop it wouldn't move till I put it in low gear and shift I it manualy then it started shifting it self in drive but no reverse or overdrive then about2 weeks later it wouold not shift out of second then won't move at all now I tore it down there was a spring and piston was in it was broke replaced it and the filter and fluid still won't move
  • terry122terry122 Posts: 2
    It was doing good I was on interstate stop and it woulndt move then it would in low then I could manualy shift up then it would shift on its own but no overdrive or reverse then bout 2 wweeks won't go in any gear I took it a part found a spring broke off in a piston I replaced it and fiter and fluid still won't go in gear :confuse:
  • oscarcoscarc Posts: 5
    I think you have the 47RE transmission. It's real simple (if you don't mind getting messy).

    w-w-w.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-repairs-replacements/381985-47re-- governor-solenoid-sensor-swap-pics.html

    *** Remove the dashes ---- between www and that should take you directly to the page that has a step by step with pictures of everything

    If not then google "47RE Governor Pressure Solenoid" , you can click on images and you should see all kinds...
  • guythunderguythunder Posts: 19
    Thanks for the info. I also found a video on You Tube showing how to replace it. Now all I have got to do is a oil change, Then I will work on this problem. :)
  • I was told by dealer that it was caused from bad tps sensor 500 dollars later no fix and i found on other forums how to fix the problem and it works 2 years so far I have a 98 5.9 td. here is the fix wire loom in front of engine has to be seperated from alternator wires by running new wire to fuse box worked perfect and no more prob.
  • tripatiftripatif Posts: 1
    Can you be a little more specific about that fix ?
    Thanks
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    For those of you who own Dodge trucks with a four speed automatic, and as a former 1993 Dodge Dakota owner, I would like to share what I have learned.

    The four speed unit is loosely based on the 727 three speed unit that was pretty stout and lived with the 426 hemi, the 383, the 426 wedge, and the 440. Chrysler in their infinite wisdom spliced on an overdrive unit to the back of the transmission. That worked pretty well provided you did not tow or work the unit to hard.

    Chrysler had two different variations of each transmission, a junior version and a senior version. The junior version ended up in Dakotas and the 150/1500 while the senior version was placed in the larger trucks including those with the diesel. They were, as I mentioned earlier, adequate provided you treated them gently.

    The trans in my 1993 Dakota was rebuilt after 98K miles. What the shop mechanic taught me was that the differences between the senior and junior versions were few. The senior version had a bigger torque converter and some of the shafts were stouter but that was about it. What is notable about the four speed units is that they leak internally and usually not enough lubricant gets back to the overdrive unit and the pressure within the unit is marginal.

    Here are some of the solutions I applied.

    1. External trans cooler. Definitely a must whether you tow or not. I installed a medium sized one and found the trans to be quieter and smoother even in 90+ degree heat.
    2. Trans fluid. Get a synthetic. ATF+4 is a straight synthetic and will work well in transmissions requiring ATF+3 and ATF+2.
    3. Get a Shift Correction Kit from Transgo. Be sure it is a Shift Correction Kit. This kit remedies the internal leakage issue, sends tons more fluid to the overdrive unit and depending on how you set it up, you can vary the firmness of the shift. I chose the middle setting and that was sweet. The shift was very quick but not overly firm. If I locked out the overdrive and played, it was not unusual for the rear tires to leave patches (some up to two feet long) of rubber on the road.
    4. Get a deeper sump. I did and added about two and one-half quarts more ATF than stock. Again that helped with heat control.
    5. Get clutch packs with better friction material and get cast iron drums instead of the aluminum drums for improved durability.

    Just one additional item for those of you with the 5.2L and 5.9L engines. They are good engines but they are sludge formers. They need very frequent oil changes otherwise the front one-third of the valve cover fills with sludge. The remedy for that is to use a good synthetic oil. I had a 5.2L in my Dakota and used a good synthetic oil. Had a valve cover gasket replaced at 80K miles. The valve train was factory clean.
  • mike1411mike1411 Posts: 1
    If I start the truck and let it idle it starts making a loud sucking air noise from the throttle body. I'll drive it and when its cold it dosn't want to shift from second to third unti it gets to 40 mph. Once it warms up it drives fine. Until I shut it off for a while.
  • 4xford34xford3 Posts: 1
    had same problem replace kick down band and drum on 2001 diesel
  • bobmc7bobmc7 Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem on my 2007 Dodge 2500 diesel. The temp light comes on and goes off almost immediately. The O/D light briefly lights. This usually only happens when I am driving in town within 10 minutes of starting the engine. I have checked the temp by hand and it was not even hot. I figure it must be wiring or a sensor.

    Can I troubleshoot this easily?
  • Hello All

    I have a 2008 3500 with the 6.7 and a 6 speed auto. It has been shifting ok, maybe a little hard and a small delay into 5 and 6 when cold. Yesterday I drove about 40 miles and it did fine. After slowing and going through a large puddle of water the transmission began slipping, over the next few blocks it got worse and worse. then it caught 4th gear and I was able to get it home. It has plenty of fluid, maybe excess fluid. It seems to work better in first gear and gets worse up to three. no issue with reverse. Fluid smells a bit burnt but not badly. Trans temp never exceed 160. Tuner shows several codes. Like trans fluid pressure high, and several improper gear ratios. I cleared the codes and drove again this morning. No change in transmission action, but the only code I have is improper 3 ratio. I have no history on the truck as I just bought it a month ago. Any advise would be appreciated. :cry:
  • did you find out where this should be? I have the same part in mine
  • Hello txbigbadwolf,

    Sorry to hear you are having a concern with your 2008 Dodge Ram 3500.

    I checked for Technical Service Bulletins but could not find anything related to the transmission concern you described.

    You may want to consider having the vehicle diagnosed by your local authorized Dodge Service Department or a trusted mechanic.

    Lisa
    Customer Care
    Chrysler Group LLC
  • edk63edk63 Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    When starting out from a stop, truck doesn't want to move. Once underway no shift problems. Shifts fine from 1st to 2nd and so on. Had fluid changed/flushed with no change in problem (automatic tranny). Any advise would be appreciated.
  • I hope you can help, here's my issue. I have a 1995 Dodge Ram with the 318. It belonged to my nephew and he was several hours away and ask me to come get him and bring a trailer that his transmission had gone out. I did and parked the truck at my house where it had sat for about 1 1/2 years. He finally told me I could have it that he wasn't going to fix it so I put on a new battery and it ran fine for about a day. Then it started acting up like the transmission was going out but I'm not sure thats it. It will crank and idle fine shifts into gears fine but if I go down the road it will start to lunge at about 10-20 MPH and about 30 is tops. It revs up like i'm going 100MPH but still about 30 is tops (on level ground), it will slow down going up hill. It lunges in drive or reverse. I have been told torque converter by some but others said if it was fine for a day than that wouldn't be it and I would be able to hear it while it was idling. Any ideas?
  • I know your post is old, but I have a 1996 Dodge Ram Truck, 1500 Series (only 126,725 on it) and I go down the road it acts like it slips into Neutral, I see the Tach Meter go up, but no power. Pull off the side of road, turn off, restart, fine, go about two miles down the road and it does the same thing. Did you ever get your problem fixed and if so, what was it?
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