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Comments
Tim
Also, he says it has Tow Pkg. How can I tell if this is so?
Thanks!
86k miles.
Shifting problem: Code #34
Symptoms:
Usually shifts from 1st to 2nd o.k. rpm can reach 3500 before it will shift into 3rd. 4th and o.d. shift normally.(this is an intermittent problem). Sometime will not shift out of first gear until rpm's are very high. If I use the accelerator gently, it will shift correctly most of the time. If I press down hard on the accelerator, such as shifting into passing gear, it seems to start the shifting problems I just explained. Next time I start the truck it will shift through all gears perfectly. Code #34 still lit. I don't think it's the transmission that's the problem. I get no slippage and when operating normally, it shifts perfectly. Could it be a sensor?
Thanks;
Jake...
I changed the transmission filter and fluid. I also replaced the speed control on the transmission.
First, understand that the 46RE is an electronically controlled, hydraulically actuated transmission.
There are a number of things that can affect a no 3-4 shift:
*Assuming that the OD Switch on the stalk is off, the switch could be defected causing the OD circuit to be defeatured. This does happen!
*Overdrive circuit fuse is open.
*The overdrive switch circuit either open or shorted. Check the connectors at the transmission for corroded terminals. This is very common on older RAMs.
*Incorrect outputs from the Distance or Coolant Sensors. A punky Distance Sensor can caused a weird collection of symptoms, including no 3-4 shift. Also, remember that the 46RE will not shift in to fourth gear until the transmission fluid reaches a certain temperature. If the coolant temperature sensor is bad you will not get a 3-4 shift. If this problem is recent to the winter weather, this should be a prime suspect.
*Incorrect output or intermittent output from the Throttle Position Sensor. On Dodge trucks the Throttle Position Sensor can cause all kinds of problems. Maybe even global warming!
*The Neutral Sense circuit to the PCM is open or shorted.
*The Overdrive Solenoid either shorted, open, or weak. On older 46REs the solenoid plungers became partially magnetized over time causing inoperation.
*The Overdrive Solenoid feed orfice is clogged in the valve body. A very common problem on vehicles that DID NOT receive a reqular transmission filter and fluid maintence.
*Low hydraulic pressure. This can be caused by a number of things, too. But before you suspect the pump I'll bet that the Anti-Drain Back valve in the transmission line is clogged. Some shops clean them, but I would recommend replacing it and changing out the fluid.
*Failed Overdrive Clutch. Unfortunately, this is somewhat common in earlier years, especially vehicles that towed heavy loads or were used in hilly country with the vehilce in overdrive.
*Failure of the Overdrive Piston Seal. Usually not a problem unless very high mileage or Dexron-Mercon fluid was used.
*Clogged Overdrive Check Valve. The result of dirty transmission fluid.
*If this transmission has been "overhauled" or "rebuilt" by an independent and they DID NOT use a Mopar transmission overhaul kit, it is very possible that Overdrive Piston has the incorrect spacer installed.
*PCM failure (the least likely).
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Dusty
PS Always use the Chrysler specified ATF. For pre-2000 vehicles, ATF+3 is okay. For 2000 and and later, ATF+4 must be used. NEVER USE DEXRON-MERCON FLUID IN A DODGE TRUCK TRANSMISSION.
Thanks
If so, it sounds like the Throttle Valve Cable (Modulator Cable) is out of adjustment, the Throttle Valve Return Spring at the transmissionis is broken or missing, or the Throttle Valve Lever at the transmission is binding.
Regards,
Dusty
It would be beneficial to know the history of this vehicle, but my first suspect would be a clogged anti-drain back valve. When partially clogged, fluid flow to the transmission is greatly reduced.
You should try to determine if the fluid is really over heated. If the ATF smells hot and measures over 240 degrees F, then there's a problem. If not, it could mean the transmission fluid temperature sensor is defective.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Could be a dragging clutch or a stuck servo.
I'd recommend taking a line pressure check and going from there. This is where a good Dodge dealer should be consulted.
Regards,
Dusty
MIL came on and she reported the truck lost power. Code reader came up with P1757(Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI When Request Is 0 PSI) and P1764(Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low) as the only codes. After resetting (disconnecting the battery) the MIL didn't come back on for a while, usually after she got out of her complex (3rd gear maybe, don't know for sure) it come back on. The two together makes me think bad sensor, but I just wanted to see if I could get a confirmation/second opinion. Fluid level is fine (well, some guy at a AutoZone-clone checked it for her and said it was fine), and there's no other problems reported.
If it is the sensor, any resources out there for replacing it. Only thing I have covering that truck (Haynes) has only rudimentary transmission information, and nothing even showing where the sensor is (I haven't gotten a chance to actually see the truck yet)
Took it in to my transmission place for a free check out and the found that the clutches are slipping. According to them the computer for the transmission will monitor the shifting and electronically adjust the clutch to get the best performance. When the truck is off for a while the system resets and until it works for a while to readjust them it slips. Being I have 164K they suggested a rebuild at approximately $1400.
My dilemma is I still owe some money on it, it also needs some other minor repairs approx $600-1000. I love the truck and if I decide to trade will get another most likely.
What else might I expect over the say next 100K to have to be repaired? Diff, frontend, engine
Just trying to make the best decision I can.
Thanks for any help.
Before you rebuild, what kind of maintenance have you done on this transmission? Have you ever changed the transmission filters or flushed the fluid and replaced the ATF? Have you recently replaced the battery? Have you carried heavy loads or done a lot of towing?
The 545RFE can only be properly diagnosed using a DRB3 scan tool. If your transmission technician didn't perform this test, or can't because he doesn't have the correct tool, go to a Dodge dealer for diagnosis.
If you're getting an honest 2-3 slipping or flair, it could be low pressure due to clogged transmission filters, excessively dirty ATF, the wrong ATF, irratic or sticking shift solenoid, or clogged transmission lines.
The 4.7 is a solid engine. I've seen some go over 200K with no signs of being tired or burning oil. I've never known one to burn oil, for that matter. On one high mileage 4.7 I know of the camshaft chain tensioners were worn. You will see an occasional water pump failure at high mileage. A lot depends, of course, on how the engine was maintained.
I've not heard of any differential failures on 2002 and up RAMs. I can't say I've heard of any suspension parts needing replacement, either.
Best regards,
Dusty
it lost all gears after being scanned,while running,@ the local advance auto store.i had just replaced the EGR valve,due to it bogging and dying everytime i put it in gear.
i managed to get it home,by shutting off the ignition,and restarting every 50 feet..this allowed first gear to work..about 3/4 ways home,i was rolling and did a neutral restart,at which point it worked fine..all 3 gears,and strong with no slipping either..
i had to take the truck off the road,because i Do tow heavy loads,usually total weight is max at 12,000lbs,and it was unsafe to be on the road.
the truck did have mercon dextron in it.
at this point,i have new fluid n filter,but am waiting to decide what to do.
i would like to install my 94 360 magnum,and replace the 301,000 mile 318 magnum.however,i cant find anyone to give me a straight answer..
do you know what i would need to use,to make this swap work?..does the computer need to be changed?
etc etc?
the 94 360 is still in the longbed truck,with a failed rear axle,and some Nasty grinding sounds coming from the trans in it.
is there a way to use a 2wd transmission,in a 4wd,or vice versa?
thanks in advance Dusty,i appreciate any advice you can give me.
the motor fits like a glove,even the exhaust worked perfect.BUT,the trans is Very bulky,and im wondering
if theres a way to retro a 727 to the magnum motors,and use that instead..although id love to have the overdrive,seeing as i have 391 posi/rear gears..
im just not fond of cutting the floors and rewelding.
i know this isnt a truck,but all the parts are coming from a truck.
thanks,Rob
Quite a lot of mileage on that truck.
The chances of your '94 transmission being repairable without much work or money is unlikely, I'm afraid. You've either lost the pump or have clogged transmission lines, or clogged shift solenoid pack, stuck govenor, or lot's of burned clutches. Unfortunately, having Dexron-Mercon in that transmission sealed it's fate. Dexron has a much higher friction coefficient and provides poor lubrication to vital transmission parts. Worse, Mopar transmission seals are not compatible with it. With Dexron in there I wouldn't trust a partial repair. I think you'd very likely have trouble down the road anyways.
The 318s usually received the 45RFE transmission, unless it was ordered with the optional heavy duty transmission, or shipped from the factory with the tow or snowplow package. The 360 got the 46RFE, which is rated to handle more load and engine torque.
Although it would bolt up, you don't want to put a 45RFE behind a 360, especially in a truck. In addition, the transmissions are tailored for engines and individual vehicle configuration. Shift and valve body calibrations are different, as well as line pressures. Even a change in axle ratio has an impact to valve body type. It would work, I'm sure, but it may not ever operate as perfectly as a truck shipped from the factory.
In addition, the Power Train Module (PCM) and the Transmission Control Module (TCM) would need to match the engine AND transmission. Although a 2wd and 4wd transmission in a Dodge is essentially similar, differences may include tail stock length and mounting.
My advice would be to contemplate installing the 360 and the matching transmission together into the truck you want it in. You don't mention the difference in years of the two vehicles. There could be some electrical wiring differences. I don't know. I recommend checking the rear axle assemblies. Dodge may have matched a larger unit to the 360 in that year.
Best regards,
Dusty
If I remember correctly, 1970 was the last year of the AMC 390, so does the '71 Javelin have a 401 or a 360? I think the original automatics were Shift Command units made by Borg-Warner. They had a Flash-O-Matic that year, too, but I'm not sure it was used on the Javelin.
Bests,
Dusty
both the trucks are 1994 vehicles..2wd longbed 360,and 4wd 318.
i would like to put the 360 in the 4x4...esp seein as they are both 94`s..
and,the longbed has power windows,tilt steering,cruise control,etc..
i was thinking about basically taking the entire harness off the longbed,and putting it onto the 4x4..
along with the doors..
figured i would have to do that,to be able to use the options mentioned above..
but then again,if rebuilding the 318/tranny is a better approach,i can do that too
im stripping the longbed tommorrow.depending on how much snow we get..argh.
gotta clean out the yard,might! be getting another javelin..(fingers crossed)
my 71 has the 304,standard motor,with 2bbl..with the borgwarner transmission..not a good trans there...
in 72,they went to the Chrysler automatic trans,and changed the Crank machining,and pattern..thus making all us poor saps with 71`s and down,lost for a good drivetrain..a cheap one i mean.
i was glad to hear the magnum thing,because the 727 would be tight,but at least it would be in there.
if this works out,even a 318 magnum should move a javelin down the road fairly good,wouldnt ya think?
up here in the rustbelt,we have tons of donor trucks whose bodies are long gone,but have nice motors..and i know youll laugh,but over half are there with dead tranny`s
thanks again Dusty
and http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transgo.htm
Not a transmission mechanic, but have fount out that by replacing the filter and putting new fluid in generally helps on some transmissions slipping. Hope the links above give you some more avenues to make your decision,
I'll bet a lot of those transmissions have Dexron-Mercon in them!
Where in the rust belt are you?
Best regards,
Dusty
They are, of course, 45RE and 46RE.
My apologies for any confusion.
Regards,
Dusty
Shift was smooth as silk up top 21K mi -
Started hardh shifting 2-3, 3-4, 4-5
Dealer made software change - same symptoms -
How can this be corrected ?
John C.
kcram - Pickups Host
I don't haul heavy loads at all mainly highway miles.
Truck wise it is pretty solid, I have had upper arms on front end wear early an need to change left one now. U joints starting to make some noise and the normal noises for this mileage.
Thanks for the relies.
Jimmy
Please omit message #95
jsc7
My OD switch on the shifter of my dodge 98 4/4 1500 has not worked for about 3 years, didn't need it too much so I did not pay much attention. Now though my truck drops out of overdrive after about 45 minutes of driving at 70 miles an hour and sets the p0740 clutch circuit mal code. The first time it happened a couple of days ago I checked the fluid and it was low, I added more and it worked fine until today when it dropped down into third again. The transmission smells hot and the fluid looks dirty, so I am going to flush out the transmission, change filter, etc, and maybe change the convertor solenoid. Any other suggestions? also the od switch still does not work, (although the od light does come on when the trans drop into third. Got anything Dusty? your the man.
Dave
Well, the P0740 code probably says it all -- you're losing Torque Converter (TC) lock-up.
Some questions:
1. You say that the O/D switch doesn't work. Does this mean the transmission has been in the overdrive mode all the time, or out of overdrive?
2. Are there any signs of slipping in fourth gear?
3. Are the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, or 4-3 shifts unusually harsh?
4. Any harsh engagement going from Park or Neutral in to Drive?
5. How many miles on this transmission? Has the fluid and filter been changed?
6. Has Dexron-Mercon ever been injected in to this transmission?
Your sense that the transmission is potentially overheating bothers me. Be advised that fluid appearance and smell are not necessarily reliable indicators with Mopar ATF+ series fluids. However, this could also be explained by a slipping Torque Converter Clutch. This will have a tendency to burn and oxidize the ATF and can cause overheating on long drives, which you are experiencing.
If the TC Solenoid is bad, not an uncommon problem on your vintage 45 or 46REs with high mileage, I think there's a good chance that it's already too late and the TC Clutch is probably worn from slipping. You should check the TC Solenoid circuitry, however. Corroded terminals on the transmission connectors are very common problem on that vintage RAM.
You can try a filter change and a flush, and although it might make a lot of other parts and circuits happy I'm unfortunately doubtful that the TC clutch is still healthy.
If this transmission hasn't received regular maintenance (filters, flushes) and you're going to attempt the maintenance and repair yourself, be mindful of the anti-drainback valve in the transmission cooling line. The valve is part of the cooling line that connects to the radiator. These things get clogged easily with exceptionally dirty fluid. Use only ATF+3 or ATF+4 and I would strongly recommend using a Mopar transmission filter.
In some cases it is best to remove the valve body and manually clean it. In fact, if this transmission has a lot of miles and never been maintenanced, a ATF power flush could cause the shift pack and valve body to become clogged.
Let us know how you make out.
Best regards,
Dusty