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Dodge Ram Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • ff6196ff6196 Member Posts: 2
    Ok,, I tried to get an answer here and no response. It was probably because I was new here.

    Anyway, I took my 2500 to a Cottman Transmission and they said "it's slipping and there is metal on the stick, also said the scanner would not communicate!! All of which was bull!! I am not totally ignorant when it comes to dodge rams! I have been the owner operator of a repair shop for over 15 years and I have owned 5, I was in Phoenix buying 2 more to bring back to Mass.

    Sorry for going on,, long story made short. If there is no pieces in the pan change the Governor Solenoid part #4617210 $120.00 and Transduce part #56028196AD $71.25. Used a good grade of ATF+4, Walmart sells Mopar brand for $4.50 something a quart. That should do it

    By the way I drove mine 2700 miles back to Mass. towing a Ram 1500. Absolutely no problems with the trans.!! DON'T TRUST COTTMANS!!

    Good Luck
  • mikep11mikep11 Member Posts: 1
    Where exactly is the governor solenoid located? I have the same problem.
  • hakirkhakirk Member Posts: 1
    Noticed a transmission leak on the forward part of my tranny where it connects to the bell housing. Its a automatic with 400000 miles. It drips about 1 drop every minute. This truck is babied for the most part. What do you suggest
  • pontiacfb69pontiacfb69 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 dodge ram 2500 4wd 140K with the cummins and an auto tranny. I have always noticed that when its parked for a day or more when i first start it up and put it in D it barely will go under its own power. Any ideas on this? I also have noticed lately that it feels like my parking brake is on. The engine revs up just fine but the truck really lags in movement. The really odd part is, is that it only does this sometimes. It doesnt matter warm or cold. Sometimes i just shut down the truck fire it up again and its fine. Any clues to this? I have heard of other people having the same problem and replacing a governor and another part in the tranny and it fixing the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • kc123kc123 Member Posts: 1
    i was driving my dodge kinda hard one day and put it in third and it was like it went into neutral. Not sure whats happened if i broke a syncro or what? anyone know what couldve happened?Thanks
  • nukeemnukeem Member Posts: 2
    Ok update time, I added a can of Seafoam tranny flush then drove it about 30 minutes. I dropped the tranny pan, the old tranny fluid looked black like old motor oil and smelled really bad. Filter was black with sludge. Magnet in the pan was covered was with what appeared like black grease but would have to be metal particles. I adjusted the reverse band. I had to turn the pusher screw in the center about 20 turns before it started engaging so I could torque it to 72 in lbs, then backed it off 2 7/8 turns and then locked down the lock nut. I refilled with Valvoline ATF+4 Full Synthetic fluid and a bottle of LubeGuard tranny fluid protectant(rated #1). Anyway, it will spin the tires easily on pavement in reverse now! WooHoo. It still seems to slip from a stop in 1st gear only. Any ideas?

    Hope this may help someone,
    Gary
  • CGBearCGBear Member Posts: 6
    02 Ram 1500 w/3.7 v-6 90,000 miles. Full trans. service with Valvoline ATF+4 synthetic 900 miles ago. Shifts a bit hard when cold, but doesn't slip. Quite the opposite actually. As I come to a stop the truck acts like you're trying to stop a manual without pushing the clutch in. It kills the engine every time. Once you get it good and warmed up after about 15 minutes of driving it improves. Cold weather has made it worse though. I'll be going to Murray's auto to borrow their code scanner tomorrow to see if anything pops up. I've got no idea what to do about a transmission that "grabs" too much.

    Please help!

    Thanks for your time,
    CGBear
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Sounds like your torque converter is locked.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • swiftdb2swiftdb2 Member Posts: 1
    I have much of the same problems with my truck

    I have a 1999 Ram 1500 4x4 with an automatic. Tranny slips occasionally on left hand turns (only left) and sometimes after sitting for awhile it is very sluggish and doesn't want to move. Sometimes it will just rev freely before slowly taking the power. Worse when cold.

    Any ideas? I've changed the fluid and filter but really no change. The only thing that stops the slipping on left hand turns is the Lucas tranny conditioner, but it always comes back.

    I'm thinking of selling the truck as it's just a spare now. I was also thinking of taking it to a tranny shop before I do this.

    Thanks
  • CGBearCGBear Member Posts: 6
    Added a qt. of trans fluid and some Lucas trans additive and she works just like new. If I check the trans fluid while running in park it read full. Check the trans in neutral it had a zero reading. I read here somewhere that dodge trans do not start pumping fluid in park, but do in R,N,D,2,and 1.
  • 96dak96dak Member Posts: 4
    Hi guys, I need some advice. My 1996 Dodge Dakota 4x4 won't shift out of 1st gear. Transmission has about 40000 miles on it. I replaced the transmission control relay, topped off the fluid level(was about a quart low), still have the same issue. I also cleaned the battery terminals this morning, took it for a spin, was able to shift into 2nd, but only after it reached about 3000 RPM. But it was only temporary, as it will not shift out of 1st again. The fluid does look good, doesn't smell burnt. I put my code scanner on it, no codes. I'm looking for any other ideas before I pull the pan. Thank you in advance.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yep. That's correct. You must check the fluid level in neutral or you might get a false reading.

    WARNING: Do not use Dexron-Mercon in any Dodge truck transmission. Using Dexron-Mercon will damage the transmission. Use only ATF+3 (older trucks) or ATF+4 automatic transmission fluid.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    if this is only happening on turns it indicates the fluid is low. You are either not checking the fluid level when hot enough in neutral, or you have an incorrect transmission dip stick. Another possibility is the Anti-drain Back valve or cooling lines are clogged with gunk, slowing down fluid flow. This is very common on older Dodge trucks that did not receive adequate transmission maintenance.

    By the way, 47REs got a number of upgrades and all of the retrofits in '98. The primary problem with the earlier builds was lack of lubrication to the overdrive unit, which caused material loss and overheating, which cause premature fluid oxidation and increased contamination. This would often lead to clogged anti-drainback valves and valve bodies.

    I've seen many properly maintained 47REs go the full distance. In fact, if properly maintained these are hearty transmissions and I would bet a GM 4L60 or 4L80 would shear a sun gear or lose a sprag before a 47RE quits.

    Oh, and never, never, never use Dexron-Mercon in a Dodge truck transmission. Use only ATF+3 or ATF+4. Dexron will kill a Dodge tranny.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    96,

    First, just to verify, you have a 1996 Dakota with the 318 engine?

    The transmission was rebuilt or replaced 40,000 miles ago?

    When you added fluid, you used Dexron-Mercon or ATF+3 or ATF+4?

    I have a candidate already, but please respond back first.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • 96dak96dak Member Posts: 4
    Dakota has a 318, tranny was rebuilt 40000 miles ago, and ATF+4 has only been used. I'm in the process of looking for the transmission plug that supplies power to the solenoids.....maybe that might be the issue.
  • dannyk1dannyk1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 3/4 ton dodge put it four low today. now it will not go back to 2wd. the light on dash keeps blinking 4lo. This is a auto transaxle. Any ideas
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Here is my list of suspects based on what I typically see or hear regarding your vehicle type, age, mileage and symptom:

    * Sticking, binding, disconnected, or broken Transmission Throttle Valve Position Cable (goes from the throttle body linkage to a pivot shaft on the left side of the transmission). Check operation of this cable at both ends. The cable should follow the return of the throttle linkage as the throttle is moved from the full throttle position to the idle position. The pivot shaft on the transmission must follow as well. Any signs of sticking and this is probably your problem. NOTE: Do not lubricate the cable or the linkage.

    *Broken or missing Throttle Valve Position Cable return spring (returns the Throttle Valve Position pivot linkage to the closed throttle position).

    *Transmission Throttle Valve Position Cable out of adjustment. Check for a broken or missing clip at the cable end that attaches to the throttle body linkage. Follow the adjustment precisely in the Dodge service manual.

    *Corroded electrical wires at the Transmission Solenoid Connector. This is the connector for the shift circuits that input to the Shift Solenoids. Common on older vehicles, especially as old as yours.

    *Binding Gearshift Selector Cable. Yep. And this fools a lot of people. Have you ever put the gearshift in Neutral and it was actually in Drive or Reverse? Your current symptom could be the result of the transmission thinking you've selected Low.

    *Defective Transmission Range Selector Switch Assembly. Located on the left side of this transmission just adjacent to the solenoid connector. If the transmission gear indicator on the instrument panel changes consistently relative to the movement of the gearshift after repeated tests, it's probably okay. Only a DRB3 test can actually determine a fault if it's intermittent. Check the electrical connections at this device for signs of corrosion. Common problem.

    *Sticking, binding, or intermittent 1-2 shift solenoid. Original factory versions of these vintage solenoids were prone to magnetizing the plunger cores after many repeated shift operations and over time. Dirty fluid or contamination build up can also cause the shift position valves to bind or stick in the Valve Body Assembly.

    *Sticking 1-2 shift valve or governor plug. Badly scored or worn 1-2 shift valve bore in the Throttle Body Assembly usually causes this. Often seen on high mileage RH and RE series (not 545RFEs). Warped valve bodies are also seen on this series. Hopefully at last rebuild this was checked, or if a real quality job was done, a new valve body was installed. Keep the fluid cleaned with periodic fluid changes and this probably will not happen, regardless of the miles.

    *Loose Govenor Plug Cover causing pressure loss in the 1-2 shift valve cylinder. I've never heard of anyone seeing this on an untouched transmission, but after rebuilds this seems to pop up. Rebuilders sometimes do not torque the cover screws down enough, or worse, strip out the threads in the valve body.

    You could also have a damaged Front Servo or Kickdown band, but this would cause you to permanently have first and reverse only. I think you indicated this was intermittent or temperature related. A damaged or out of adjustment Front Band can cause this symptom, but hopefully unlikely since there was a rebuild not to long ago, and/or you have not abused this transmission.

    You could have a Powertrain Control Module (computer) problem, but PCM failures are very rare, especially on Dodges. Allowing your dealer to run diagnostics on this vehicle would likely uncover a PCM fault.

    That's all I can think of for the moment. Check back and keep us statused on your results.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bbostonbboston Member Posts: 2
    check the fluid level in your transfer case it could be low.
  • 96dak96dak Member Posts: 4
    Well, we're making some progress here. I unplugged the electrical connector at the Transmission Solenoid Connector, vacuumed out the plug end and the electrical port on the tranny, plugged it in, and went for a drive. Shifted good into 2nd and 3rd like it did before. Stopped at a light, started moving again, wouldn't shift out of 1st. I started shifting through the gears manually, was able to get 2nd and 3rd again. Turned the truck around, and it would not come out of 1st again. Tried manually shifting it, wouldn't cooperate. Got it back into my subdivision, drove around a bit more, and sometimes manually selecting the gears would do it, sometimes it wouldn't. I know I do need to replace my TV cable, so I'll see if I can find one at a scrapyard tomorrow. I'll keep you posted. Thank you!
  • 2001150020011500 Member Posts: 2
    I just got of the highway traveling from Houston to Fortstockton TX. I was trucking along about 85 mph in cruise control, when I noticed I was about to run out of gas. I stepped it up a notch, still in cruise contol, when my tranny slipped out of O/D. It would not turn back on. I stoped to get gas, restarted my truck, and everything was fine. Again I was in cruise mode running around 85mph and got a lead foot aftter running at 90-95 mph for a few min, O/D slipped off again. I pulled to the side of the road turn my truck off, restarted O/D was all was fine, again.... took off go to 80 mph, with cruise on, turned O/D off myself it turned off turned it back on, then it slip off by itself again. Pulled over turned truck off, restarted took off again set cruise at 80mph and left it there and all was fine.... does anyone have any idea what was going on?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Good test!

    Positive manual shift results indicate that all major drive components are okay.

    I would highly recoomend you replace the Throttle Position Valve Cable with a new one. This is a common problem. There is either moisture in the cable or it has become kinked or frayed internally. You might save a few dollars getting one from a boneyard, but I don't think it's worth it.

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, how many miles on the vehicle and what engine?

    Did the OD indicator lamp switch on when it came out of overdrive?

    How many miles did you drive before the OD switched off?

    By any chance did you get a transmission over temperature indicator illumination?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • Daniel97dodgeDaniel97dodge Member Posts: 1
    hey i need sum help i have a 1997 dodge 1500 4x4 auto with a 318 eng it takes awhile for it to go in rev all gears work fine but when i put in in rev it dount grind it just make a wineing nose and then it takes gear. i drove it for about 15 miles got back home an put it in rev and it does it again wineing and then it takes gear. need sum help thanks
  • joshuagjoshuag Member Posts: 92
    My dad's 97 Ram had to have the transmission rebuilt at 160k, and he didn't have anymore problems. My uncle on the other hand has a 96 Ram with 230k on it and he has had the transmission rebuilt twice. But with my uncle, he never services the transmission. He only changes the oil every 20k, so it is really amazing that the truck has lasted as long as it has. But, when I went to buy my Ram, I bought a 2003 Ram with the 5-speed. I have had it for 5 years with 80k on it and the transmission shifts like new.
  • ShadyJrShadyJr Member Posts: 5
    I have been having shifting problems with my truck, Also the check engine light is on which has given a code 37and 32, I called the local Dealer and they said it was the shift solenoid. So I replaced all electrical components in the tranny but to no avail, It is doing the same thing! Sometimes the tranny shifts like a new one dowshift to first gear and all, But seems like when the check engine light comes on is when it starts shifting funny! When it is not shifting normal it will not downshift to first gear and feels like it is in park until you manually downshift to first but when its shifting from first to sec. its like it lags to get into second, and sometimes the motor revs high and I have to let off the gas for it to shift to the upper gears, Then sometimes I have to really wind out the motor for it to shift. I have unhooked the battery cables to reset the comp and soon after I hook them back up and go to leave, It shifts beautiful until the dang light comes on. Can anyone please give me an idea as to what could be the problem(Besides being a Dodge) Thanks alot.
  • 96dak96dak Member Posts: 4
    Well, I replaced the TV cable because I broke the plastic end off at the throttle body 5-6 months ago and made a new end for it. I had to do the junkyard route, because I am absolutely broke right now. Now, with the tranny in Drive, it will shift through all the gears, but shifts at 3500-4000 RPM. Manually shifting it works good. I'm going to do some research to see if the TV cable is adjustable, 'cause I'm pretty sure thats all thats wrong with it now. I really appreciate your responses guys, it potentially saved me a couple hundred bucks at least.
  • ShadyJrShadyJr Member Posts: 5
    I am literally goin nuts trying to figure out whats the deal with my truck! I love my truck and want to fix it but cant find out a darn thing! The check engine light comes on giving a code 32 & 37, 37 being the shift solenoid which I replaced, Also replaced the speed sensor. When the temp hand starts to move is when the light comes on and the tranny starts shifting funny, Sometimes its fine next time funny shifting again. When it decides to dowshift into 1st gear it will go through all gears perfect but soon as you pull to a stop and it wont downshift its like its hung between gears until you manually downshift into first, Then when you pull out the tranny lags to shift between the upper gears. I dont think the tranny has a mechanical problem because it shifts too perfect when it wants to, So Dusty do you or anyone else have any advice on my problem? Thanks a bunch!!!
  • roedogroedog Member Posts: 1
    Hi-

    Looking for any advice on an issue I just had with my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. I bought it about 2 months ago, had 145,000 highway miles on it, and I don't believe it has towed anything in it's life. Recently when I went to pass someone on the highway, there was an abrupt jerk/pause when it downshifted. I was at about 50-55 mph, I kicked it down pretty solidly and it was fine at the initial downshift. When it dropped down one gear lower (into 3rd I think) there was the abrupt jerk. I then letoff a bit and it came back up through 4th and into 5th without a problem. The next 100 miles or so I thought it seemed a little odd feeling, but I may have just been paranoid at that point. Does anyone have any idea what may have caused that and what I should do at this point? Thank you for your time.
  • 2001150020011500 Member Posts: 2
    I have just over 94000 miles on the truck, it has a 5.9l engine. Yes, the lamp did swith on when it came out of overdrive. I had driven around to 400 miles (give or take) when this happen, it has only happened twice both while running at high speeds with cruise control on. And no there was not a trans tremp indicator, I checked the trans fluid and level was normal, and there were no leaks present. I had a "drain and fill" with a filter change around 20000 miles ago. This issue has not presented itself again.

    Thanks,
    Joel
  • birch2birch2 Member Posts: 7
    Dusty, where is the throttle position valve cable located? I am also having a couple of issues with my tranny and this may be the cure.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    On Dodge truck transmission the cable runs from the Throttle Body linkage to a pivot bracket mounted on the left side (drivers side) of the transmission just forward of the Transmission Range Selector Switch and the electrical connector.

    There should be a return spring attached to the pivot bracket and the transmission housing. I've seen these broken or completely missing.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, this could be Transmission Range Selector Switch problem, but I doubt it.

    You could also have a problem with the shift solenoids and a very dirty/clogged valve body assembly.

    Other possibilities are:

    *Rear band out of adjustment.

    *Worn front clutches

    *Direct clutch spring broken

    *Bad Overdrive Thrust Bearing.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Starting in 2002 any Ram with a 4.7 or 5.7 motor gets the 545RFE transmission. These trannys are one of the most reliable I have ever seen. They're tough and nearly bullet proof. This is one transmission that if maintenanced properly you should easily see 200,000 or more miles before needing a rebuild.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm unsure, but 1994 may be before they put a Transmission Overtemperature Indicator on the instrument panel. But my first suspicion is the transmission might be overheating. I can't see where a shift solenoid problem would throw a Check Engine Lamp just by itself.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You have the 545RFE transmission and 145,000 miles is not a lot for these units.

    Hard to say. If you don't have a maintenance history, I would change the transmission filter and fluid. Make sure you use ATF+4!

    Keep in mind that the 545RFE is a fully adaptive transmission. This means that the transmission shift pattern learns the driver's style and habits. If you are a more sedate driver most of the time, when you do get on it may feel like the transmission is lagging, or possiblity, you might get an abrupt shift. This happens to me every once in a while on my 545RFE equiped Dakota.

    I don't suspect anything going on, but at that mileage I would seriously recommend you perform the transmission maintenace service.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • ShadyJrShadyJr Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the response! I failed to mention that my truck does have a tranny cooler installed, and also the truck is giving a code 32 which in the haynes manual it says a code 32 is the EGR, So the ? is would the EGR cause the tranny to act up? Also I've been told that there is a mechanical governor in the tranny that could be sticking. The tranny is an A518, Have you heard of anyone elses doing what mine is doing? Another thing, Would replacing or flashing the computer help? Thanks for any info. Shady.
  • BGRTHNURHEMIBGRTHNURHEMI Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 2500 4x4 Hemi w/ the 545RFE automatic transmission with 50,000 miles on the truck. I went to drive my truck today and when I put it into drive and pressed the accelerator the truck would rev up to 2800 rpms but wouldn't hardly move, it felt like I was driving with the emergency brake on. I tried to accelerate to about 40 mph but it felt real sluggish the entire time, then the MIL came on. When I put it in park the truck died. I read the codes and it said P0700 transmission control system mil request and P0841 LR pressure switch rationality. I had the transmission fluid changed several weeks ago and made sure the transmission shop used ATF4 fluid and installed new filters. It drove fine until today. What could have caused these codes? Thanks
  • CGBearCGBear Member Posts: 6
    Thanks Dusty.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The EGR code, along with some of the other symptoms you mentioned, may indicate a clogged catalytic converter problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • BGRTHNURHEMIBGRTHNURHEMI Member Posts: 3
    Dusty,

    I did a little bit of research on here. According to some people that were having this problem it was either faulty cooler return filter, PCV valve, or EGR. Do you have any idea what could be causing my problems? Or could you suggest what I should replace first? I checked the transmission fluid while in neutral and it checked out ok.

    Thanks
  • cvf1967cvf1967 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Dodge Ram 2500, that all of a sudden would not start in park, but does in neutral and also takes almost up to 40 miles an hour before it shifts out of low gear (automatic transmission). There were no prior signs of problems, then all of a sudden these two issues were apparent. I started the truck fine in park, drove it and the shifting issue was apparent, parked it and went to start it again when it wouldn't start in park, but did start in neutral. Any help, would be appreciated.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My apologies. I had responded to a number of other people that day and I think got you confused with somebody else.

    After re-reading your original post, and if the vehicle does not move in gear until you get to 2800 RPM, then I think you have lost fluid flow or pump pressure, or have a major component failure.

    Major component failures are extremely rare on a 545RFE. That coupled with the fact that you have low mileage and a recent transmission service, I suspect something has caused a fluid flow issue.

    There was in fact a number of faulty Cooler Return Filters issued in the Mopar transmission filter kit, but that goes back quite a while now. It's possible, however, that the dealer still had one in stock. I'd take it back to the dealer immediately!

    It's also possible that the filter was not correctly tightened at installation and has fallen out. Yes, it's happened!!!

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Check for a binding Shift Selector cable or you might possibly have a bad Transmission Range Selector Switch on the transmission.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • BGRTHNURHEMIBGRTHNURHEMI Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Dusty. I plan on taking it in on Monday to have them check it and will let you know what I find out.
  • cvf1967cvf1967 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Dusty! I will check out the shift selector. I assume it's the cable down by the transmission? I will say one thing, it doesn't seem to want to stay in the park setting ojn the column. You have to almost force the shifter into park to keep it there. Also, the steering wheel does not seem to lock any more, where before, I believe it did. Would any of these things have anything to do with taking so long to automatically up shift though? It won't up shift, until I get to about 40 miles an hour??
  • slimeyboy9slimeyboy9 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 ram 1500 i can go down the road for about 5 miles then the transmisson starts to overheat and stops shifting until it cools down then it will go down about 5 more miles and do the same thing i need helpl, any solutions?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yes, it could.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    How many miles and what engine do you have?

    Have you ever changed the transmission filter and fluid?

    High mileage vehicles with that age that haven't been maintenanced may have a clogged filter, anti-drainback valve, and/or transmission cooling lines. This will usually reduce the fluid flow to the point that clutches start to overheat.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • UNCLE_TUNCLE_T Member Posts: 1
    MY 2001 RAM HAS NO OVERDRIVE. 1,2,3, AND LOCKUP OK. NO CODES. SCANTOOL SHOWS 4TH GEAR SELECTED. RPM AND OUTPUT RPM WITHIN 50MPH OF EACH OTHER. BACK PROBING THE ECM 3/4 SOLENOID CONTROLE PIN SWITCHES FROM BATT. VOLTS TO .33 VOLTS WHEN 4TH GEAR IN SELECTED ON SCAN TOOL. WITH A STETHASCOPE ON THE TRANS PAN I CAN HEAR THE SOLENOID HUM. ANY SUDJESTIONS. THE STRANGE THING IS NO CODES. TRANS FUNCIONS FINE NO SLIPPING OR SHUDDERING WHEN 4TH IS SELECTED. LIKE THE TRANS NEVER TRIES TO SHIFT OUT OF 3RD/LOCKUP?

    STUMPPED .
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I know this may seem like a silly question, but have you checked the O/D switch circuit? If you switch the O/D switch, does the O/D OFF lamp illuminate on the instrument cluster? If you measure the voltage on the PCM side of the O/D switch circuit, does the voltage vary with actuation of the switch?

    Have you checked the overdrive circuit fuse?

    The fact you're not getting any codes at all is frustrating, particularly in this case. This is, however, not unusual with a defective Throttle Position Sensor or an intermittent Distance Sensor.

    Other things that could cause this symptom:

    *Defective or out-of-range Coolant Temperature Sensor (46REs won't shift into 4th until the fluid temperature reaches approximates 40 degrees F).

    *Overdrive Solenoid coil shorted or open.

    *Low hydraulic pressure.

    *Clogged valve body; 2-3 & 3-4 Shift valves sticking; valve body plunger bores worn;clogged bleed orfice;etc.

    *Overdrive Piston seal failure

    *Overdrive Clutch is bad.

    *PCM problem.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
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