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Comments
On the previous generation RAMs (pre-2002), splits in the dashboard were a problem, although I know of a lot of RAMs of that vintage that have not had the problem. I was told by a Dodge service manager that this problem was traced to a molding-related defect and that's why it affected only certain vehicles. I think I heard that, based on how good your relationship is with the dealer, that they can help you get some financial assistance from Chrysler on a portion or all of the repair.
Regards,
Dusty
Mike
Steven
Is anyone out there that can give me a hint as to the problem.
Steve
wheel . Why ? Does anyone know ?
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
I am new to diesels so I do not know if this is normal. It does create a problem when I am towing my camper. To slow to gain speed.
I beleave I have the 48RE transmission, is this normal?
sensor replaced. Drives ok for about 10 minutes, then wont shift into 3 untill
the rpms go sky high. Then after a few minutes the O/D lite goes on. Am I doomed?
Regards,
Dusty
Is there a simple fix or am I doomed.
Again, in RWD platforms (all trucks) there is a Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. This sensor supplies a signal to the PCM through the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB or Antilock Brake Controller). The PCM supplies the signal to operate the speedometer, among other functions.
On to your problem.
*If the Speedometer is not working, but the Odometer advances as the vehicle is driven, you have a defective Speedometer gauge or a break on the cluster circuit board.
*On Chrysler systems if the Odometer or Trip Odometer is blank, you have an internal error on the instrument cluster assembly with the PCI data bus and the speedometer will not function.
*If a "NO BUS" message is visible in the odometer, there is an internal problem on the cluster circuit board or there is no PCI data circuit between the cluster and the PCM.
*If the Odometer readout is flashing repeatedly, the instrument cluster is not receiving a distance signal from the CAB.
*If the circuit between the Rear Wheel Speed Sensor to the CAB is lost, the speedometer will not work, the odometer will not advance and the ABS lamp on the instrument cluster will be illuminated.
Since I do not know what the state is of the odometer in this case, and you've already replaced the Rear Wheel Speed Sensor in the rear differential, I would suggest checking the rear wheel speed sensor circuit back to the CAB. On vehicles of your vintage corrosion at the rear wheel speed sensor terminals is a common problem, but I would check all of the connections at the CAB and PCM terminal connectors. If the odometer is working, you've probably got a bad speedo gauge.
Regards,
Dusty
i'm trying to remove the valve body to check it out, but tranny is still in truck and i can't figure out how to disconnect throttle linkage to allow valve body to drop out. any help would be appreciated.
Are you having trouble removing park rod or the manual lever? There's an E-clip on the end of the park rod. You need to rotate the valve body in order to release the rod. The manual lever shaft simply pulls through the case.
Regards,
Dusty
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 with the 360 in it. I'm not sure of the trans. 46 or 47. My problem is that once in a while, mainly when its cold or wet, it will almost seem like it's slipping. Also along with this problem it stalls in drive and shakes like it wants to die. If I shift into 2nd it works no problems. There is a check engine code for low output speed sensor, I replaced the output speed sensor on the trans and it did nothing.Light is still there Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
I was wrong.
The Caravan actually went 7300 miles before the clutches were completely spent. Of course, this only validated that Mopar trannies were a POS in his mind.
Unfortunately, KCRAM is very correct. Success stories with Dexron of non-ATF+ in a Chrysler-built transmission are very, very few, but I've seen a couple of Mopar automatics tolerate a quart of Dexron for a short period (less than a hundred miles) and survive after a complete transmission flush. But in your case I think there was just too much for too long a period.
Chrysler's ATF+ (ATF+, ATF+2, ATF+3 & ATF+4) are proprietary and very specialized fluids that are specifically formulated for compatibility with the Chrysler transmission design. They use a very sophisticated friction modifier ingredient that cannot be duplicated except by the original manufacturer (Havoline for ATF+3 & ATF+4). Adding another type of ATF will quickly destabilize ATF+ and without the correct formula the usual result is excessive clutch and band wear which loads up the transmission with clutch debris (that gray silty stuff) and clogs the transmissions arteries.
Good luck,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
morgan
http://www.rm-indy.com/wavefiles/2001ramsrvcmanual.zip
i found it very useful
Its in pdf format complete service guide
http://www.rm-indy.com/wavefiles/2001ramsrvcmanual.zip
As you mentioned, I did put a lot of stress on the trans during the time the truck was running, but shouldn't I have noticed a problem starting to occur rather than the truck just deciding to stop shifting immediately?
Thank you for your help!!!
I would say that most transmissions give little to no notice before they stop operating correctly. Many times, especially with Mopars, the fluid becomes contaminated enough and debris is so heavy that the passages and valves in the valve body just clog right up. This can happen in an instant. TH200s and 4L60s & 80s will often produce strange noises, suffer from abrupts shifts, and have flair in advance before they go belly up, but a good portion of them die instantaneously, too (bad Sun Gears). Fords die like Mopars...pretty quickly, usually. But that's a testament to a hearty design.
Good luck,
Dusty