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Dodge Ram Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Possibilities:

    *Low fluid level

    * Low hydraulic pressure caused by clogged transmission filter, transmission cooling lines, or anti-drain back valve.

    *Governor electrical circuit fault, defective Governor Pressure Sensor or Solenoid.

    *Valve Body problem: Clogged passages, stuck valves, or worn plunger bores.

    *Front Servo stuck or damaged

    *Kickdown Band burned

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The reason the Dodge tech. may have said something was fishy is because of the P0871 code. I have no listing for that code, and normally Chrysler doesn't use a 800-series trouble code.

    The P0218 is a transmission over temperature code.

    The P0740 is a torque converter clutch circuit failure code.

    Hard say about this problem. Sounds like the transmission is overheating, but within one mile of a cold start? Pretty severe problem if true. More diagnosis needs to occur, like a DRB3 scan and actually live pressure test. A person would need to know the Clutch Volume Indexes and other data from the TCM. At this point it could be a lot of things.

    I think you're going to have to trust your tech. Isn't this vehicle in warranty?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    We really need additional information.

    What year is the vehicle and how many miles is on it?

    Which engine do you have?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I would suggest pulling a code. I'm not exactly sure of the symptom. If you haven't changed the Throttle Position Sensor since the vehicle was new, now might be a good time.

    As an aside, in my opinion all bets are off with this one since you added another fluid type to the transmission. ATF+4 is easily destabized by the introduction of other types of fluid. I've seen this before. I highly recommend not adding any aftermarket fluids.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I recommend checking to see if you have a trouble code stored. If no code I would suggest you get the transmission serviced, which on a 545RFE is simply changing the two transmission filters and freshing with about six quarts of ATF+4. Then go from there.

    It's hard to judge from your sympton description, but you may be just feeling the torque converter locking up. You could have a rough spot on the Throttle Position Sensor, although I haven't seen any replaced on new 4.7 or 5.7 Rams. I believe there is at least one Transmission Computer Module reflash that's been released since your truck was manufactured.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Allan,

    Without knowing which engine you have I can't determine which transmission you've got. But in general there is a good possibility the symptoms are the result of relatively non-evasive things.

    Possibilities:

    *Low fluid level

    *Low hyraulic pressure: transmission filter, cooling lines, or anti-drain back valve clogged.

    *Throttle linkage dirty, sticking, or binding.

    *Transmission Throttle Valve cable binding or sticking; misadjusted. Throttle Valve Lever sticking.

    *Electronic governor circuit malfunction. Defective Governor Pressure Sensor or Solenoid.

    *Dirty transmission valve body, sticking valves or worn plunger bores.

    *Loose front band or out-of-adjustment.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • robert0528robert0528 Member Posts: 3
    I'm a chrysler technician in winnipeg canada with 20 years experience. I own a
    2001 ram quad cab 4x4 with a factory off road package, 5.9 liter v8 and a 46re
    transmission. Recently while drive on the highway the truck would not lock up in
    overdrive and fault code p0740 tcc solinoid circut would become active. The trans
    pan was removed, no debree found in the pan. the 3/4 and lock up solinoids were
    tested and working fine. There is a boost pressure plate in the valve body that
    requires a larger bleed hole to be installed. The boost pressure plate was replaced and valve body reinstalled in trans. While road testing on highway same fault
    occured. Brought truck back in shop, with scan tool attempted a lock up stall test.
    The torque convertor would not lock. Inputs from tcm to lock up solinoid were tested, all inputs were ok. At this point transmission was removed, when disassembled, rear bearing support was damaged, overdrive clutches and steels
    were burnt, overdrive planatary and intermediate shaft were also damaged.
    i completly overhauled the trans with new torque converotr and pump also installed.
    Inside the trans cooler lines is a one way valve to prevent torque convertor bleed back, the one way valve was removed because of a possible restriction. Reinstalled the trans and reroad tested. On the highway same fault occurred,
    when returning to the shop the trans temp light came on and overdrive was disabled
    I pulled over and waited for it to cool down. After restarting and driving when the
    trans shifted from first to second the rear wheels locked up solid, two clutches applying at the same time. At this point it had to be towed back. I reremoved and disassembled the valve body, no probelem found, all valves were working properly.
    Tans was the removed again and disassembled, the exact same damage was found
    in the overdrive unit. The rear bearing support is fed fluid directly from the return side of the trans cooler. I hooked up a trans coolker flush machine with a pressure gauge and checked flow pressure, pressure was 45 psi, it should be no more than 15 psi. Anyway long story short a restriction was isolated to the radiator cooler, not the auxillary cooler. The radiator was flushed, aux cooler flushed, all rubber
    portins of cooler hoses replaced, Trans was reinstalled and is now working fine.
    please check for a restirction before doing any repair on your trans. remove the
    one way valve in the cooler hose, and disconnect your return cooler hose from the
    trans(rear one) runyour engine in neutral at 2000rpm and check you trans flow,
    you should get a gallon in about 20 seconds, basically drain the pan. If the flow is a good amount less then you probably have a restiction. The pumps and valve bodys in these trans are solid and the issue is usually some place else. I found out he hard way, rebuit trans twice in the same week.
  • robert0528robert0528 Member Posts: 3
    replace your boost pressure plate in the valve body with chrysler part number
    04617015, it has a larger bleed hole and prevents you lock up convertor from
    kicking in and out.
  • ramman9ramman9 Member Posts: 4
    Just wondering if the govenor pressure sensor and transducer fixed your pickup? Mine is still shifting fine!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Robert, great post!!

    Your unfortunate story reinforces the need for routine maintenance. Industry statistics clearly show a correlation between the level of maintence and the level of transmission problems. Yet, the vast majority of us will religiously change engine oil at 3000-5000 miles, yet completely forget about the transmission. In the vast majority of cases that I see or hear of, lack of routine maintenance is usually associated with transmission problems.

    As noted in many of my posts, poor fluid flow or loss of hyraulic pressure due to debris problems are predominate to many transmission issues. That's why I often list clogged cooling lines and the anti-drain back valve as a prime suspect on Mopars.

    The one thing I might suggest to reconsider is the permanent remove of the anti-drain back valve. This valve was added to later A998s, A999s, A500s, A518s and A618s for a reason. Torque converter syphoning can be a problem on these transmissions, especially if one lives in a climate where day-to-night temperatures range considerably. The anti-drain back valve prevents this. If the filter is replaced and the ATF is refreshed routinely, the likihood of having excessive dirt and debris in the ATF is very low. They can be replaced very easily and should be periodically as well.

    Chrysler has the anti-drain back valve built directly in to the transmission of the RFE series, and uses a Cooling Return Filter to ensure that the anti-drain back valve doesn't get clogged. However, the filter itself can become clogged and produce the same problem as a clogged anti-drain back valve.

    ATF does become oxidized, collects moisture and dissipates the friction component over time. Fluid condition is probably the single most important characteristic of an automatic transmission. This is especially true on Mopars since their ATF+ series is a very specific and unique recipe.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • 96ram15004x496ram15004x4 Member Posts: 6
    Sorry for the delay in replying, It is a '96 1500 4x4 with the 318 engine and about 142,000 miles. It seems pretty solid, no slipping that I can tell. I can't find the transmission numbers although I'm told it is '96 only. It seems to pull better since the fluid change than before and will occasionally shift. At times, I think it is in 2nd when I take off because I don't feel it shift up, but it will downshift manually into 1st. I have only had the truck for a couple of months and was told the transmission was recently rebuilt. I could tell the pan was off recently and the flywheel looks new as well. I tried to get codes by turning the key on and off three times, but all it shows is 12 which, I'm told, means the codes have been erased. Any advice would be greatly appreciated because I am at a loss when it comes to transmissions. Thanks.
  • 96ram15004x496ram15004x4 Member Posts: 6
    I also forgot to include that yes I do have reverse. Sorry about that.
  • murr1966murr1966 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help,I got a used tranny for 1600 bucks. I;m gonna rebuild the broken one and have a spare. I do thank you, have a good day.
  • carmeng2carmeng2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 1500 ram 5.9 and in the past month the transmission has been slipping in second. When I take off from a stop the truck will shift into second gear and begins to studer and seems to have a hard time catching the gear and slips back into first. If i let off the throttle enough when it begins to slip, it will catch and stay in second gear then shift normally through the rest of the gears. This only happens from first to second gear and drives with no problem on the highway. The truck has 165000 miles on it and i've only had it for a year and am not sure if any major work done to the truck before i bought it. I have also never changed the trans filter on it. Any ideas if a simple filter change maybe the problem or is it something more serious than that?

    Thanks
    G2
  • allan18allan18 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Dusty,

    I will get this fixed and let you know what the final resolve was.

    have a great day
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My first suspect would be the Throttle Valve Cable going from the throttle lingage at the engine throttlebody to the transmission is stuck in the full throttle position.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • 96ram15004x496ram15004x4 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info, I'll check it and let you know what I find.
  • eteketek Member Posts: 5
    ramman9, I finally got a break from the rain and replaced the governor pressure solenoid and sensor. Got some ATF+4 and a new filter and went to work. I unhooked the return cooling line and filled the Pan with ATF+4, I started it up and put in neutral to pump any fluid out of the cooler and Torque converter. I wanted to flush all the other fluid I could out. Hooked cooler line back up and carefully worked my way to the proper fluid level after heating up. Truck has been fine for 2 days, nice to have shifting again.

    Just another note, before I got the level right I misread the stick(fluid smeared on stick instead of actual level) because I didn't think I had got all the fluid out and had added about 9 quarts and was worried about overfilling. Well it through 0740 code when I got on the highway the first day. I thought great now the TCC is shot but when I checked the fluid level after nice and hot and several dips to be sure I ended up a 1 1/2 qts low, got that straight and haven't seen that code in a day so got my fingers crossed.

    Not sure how long I have because I seen very fine shavings on magnet and glittery substance in bottom of pan and on filter and I've read anything from this is normal to you don't have too long left on your tranny.

    Any clue what the glittery substance is from, is that clutch material maybe or just metal particles.
  • dogfacejaydogfacejay Member Posts: 1
    WTF is wrong with my tranny that it slips out of gear on a left hand turn of any kind. 02 dodge 3500 4x4 diesel dually. It had a tranny job from the previous owner and I am not thinking that they did not do something correctly with the torque converter or something. I am about to change my tranny filter to see if this will remedy the issue. I have seen others with the same issue. Apparently there is no answer. I just need to know what I can do to remedy the issue.

    thanks.
  • trapassotrapasso Member Posts: 1
    i noticed the same pattern in my truck. dodge told me the same thing that it is normal. but i also noticed my gas mileage used to be between 19 and 20 plus mpg on highway then i noticed my milage dropped down to about 17-18 i felt the vehecile wasn't shifting right because in high gear i could always feel a slight vibration which i felt was the motor running in four cyclinders that went away with my gas milage ,after numerous complaintants to dodge finally my transmission kicked a transmission code they did a seal repair the gas mileage came back my little vibration came back and the repair was good for about thirty days and now back to the same problem . dodge is still telling me it is normal which i know it is not calling dodge today no resulsts i will call an attorney if you want to be involved let me know check your gas mileage let me know if you notice a difference
  • sluggo333sluggo333 Member Posts: 9
    What is your milage in town? Mine has been runnign between 14.7 and 15.8. I never have gotten much more than 18 hwy with mine.
  • liny3liny3 Member Posts: 7
    i have a 03 qc 4.7 that has 85k on the clock. the truck runs great i only have it 5 months. the whole time i own it i have noticed a moaning in the rear. it only makes the sound when i make a hard turn or u turn at a slow speed. some times it will make a sound when i turn in reverse. do i need to take care of this before it gets worse or can it remain like this and still drive fine?? will changing the fluid help??

    also what do i need to do to get better mpg?? only avg.12.6 combined ???
  • 96ram15004x496ram15004x4 Member Posts: 6
    Dusty, I still haven't had any luck with my shifting problems. Yesterday I took it to the shop to have it looked at. This guy is supposed to be pretty good so maybe I'll have something to tell you in a couple of days. He said he was thinking something like the speed sensor or governor or possibly trash in a valve. Anyway, when I find the problem I'll post it on here maybe it will help someone else out. Thanks again.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If the material has a slight golden appearance, it is usually from the planetary gears. However, you will usually find some small quantity in any automatic transmission. More than a teaspoon full might be cause for concern. Then again, I've seen some trannies thast had quite a bit of it and they still kept going.

    Changing transmission filter and fluid periodically will usually prevent serious problems.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Valve Body issues account for better than half of all transmission problems, so it wouldn't surprise me, especially on Mopars. Fords and GM probably have less valve body issues, but more problems with the hard parts.

    I hate to be a nag on this sublect, but change filters and fluid regularly and problems become far less likely.

    Please keep us posted. Best of luck

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Slipping on turns is a symptom of low fluid. Check the level with a fully warmed engine and preferably after driving for a distance. You could have a clogged filter and/or cooling lines causing poor flow and pressure loss.

    If it slips out of gear the gearshift cable could be out of adjustment. This is not uncommon with units that have been removed for service.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • 02ram15004x402ram15004x4 Member Posts: 2
    I just got a 1500 ram 4X4 started to notice that at high RPM trans shifts down and the backup and chatters truck is this normal I'm not able to find anywhere that some one has found a solution for it but lots of people have this problem

    PS it's 2002
  • slemayslemay Member Posts: 3
    I traded in a 2004 Ram 1500 Quad Cab on a 2009 Ram 1500 Crew Cab. Love the truck. Drives like a cadillac, getting better mileage, more room for the rear passengers. So far, I have had the truck for 600 miles. The temp sensor does not work. It has already been replaced once. The second problem is I have a shudder. This occurs at 30mph and above. It has been back to the dealers twice for this problem. So far no fix, or answers. They did tell me that they had several other trucks on the lot that were doing the same thing. So far, of all the Dodge trucks I have owned, this has given the promise of being one to keep, but only if Dodge fixes the transmission and sensor problem.
  • slemayslemay Member Posts: 3
    I have an 09 Ram that the transmission shudders at 30 mph and above. The problem you are having is like mine, not normal.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    After giving this some thought, by any chance does this vehicle have limited slip differential?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • stanoskistanoski Member Posts: 76
    I heard from a salesman (Ex-Dodge) last year that Chrysler/Dodge pushes product to the lot with known problems/issues and fixes them "after" the fact rather than before. Just like computer programs, they always have updates because if you wait until its perfect, it will never be released, you fix it as you go. I had 2 initial issues with my 07 RAM and heard the same thing from the service guys. Maybe thats just the way it works?? This is the first "problem" that I have heard regarding the new 09s though. Its also well understood in the industry that you don't (shouldn't) buy the first year new model because they "always" have bugs to work out. This is as true today as it was 25 years ago. When you find the solution, please repost.

    Thanks!

    Ski in TX
  • peppylevipeppylevi Member Posts: 1
    I am having problems with my truck. Last night, I was driving home and my overdrive light had come on. Then, it started to not shift correctly. I had let it cool for a while, and the overdrive light had not come back on; however, it lost all transmission except for reverse. I had taken the pan off to see if there was any debris in it, which there was not. I haven't got a clue what is wrong. Do you? :sick:
  • drummerstudrummerstu Member Posts: 1
    while driving around 65 overdrive off light came on and shifted to od,, stoped turned off back on light off then happened again whats up 131000 miles
  • 02ram15004x402ram15004x4 Member Posts: 2
    Mine hold good up to 70 & some where between 5500 & 6 grand!
  • kmzueskmzues Member Posts: 4
    ok here we go ! at 120000 miles i was driving the interstate and overdrive kicked out , a few miles later trans temp lite went on. i imediatly pulled over and shut down the truck for 30 minites. i noticed fluid leaking from the front of the trans . after cooling down drove slowly home , while driving i put the trans into neutral when i could to keep fluid moving but not using trans. my shop guy flushed out trans and removed check valve. truck worked fine for about 500 miles no leaks . then while driving 3rd gear went out , all i had was 1st and reverse ! no trans temp lite ! while limping home i would occasionally go into 3rd them i would lose it again !
    so i changed the filter and fluid (atf+4) and took it for a test drive . it shifted fine for about 2 miles , then 3rd was gone again ! just 1st and reverse. i checked the cooling lines both were cold ! when i changed the fluid i blow out the lines till no trans fluid came out . i also tried to blow compressed air into the line conection on the trans the top connection would accept air to a point then blow fluid back out . the lower would not take any air , like there was a one way valve ? is the trans toast or should i check something else ? i also have a p1740 code coming up .

    thanks for your help !!
    Kevin
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    "I heard from a salesman (Ex-Dodge) last year that Chrysler/Dodge pushes product to the lot with known problems/issues and fixes them "after" the fact rather than before."

    Dodge is no different than Ford or GM in this respect, although I don't believe it happens with any degree of regularity. Each vehicle is dyno run, so some problems may not manifest itself until driven, although a certain percentage are test track inspected. If a fix is available at the factory, they always hold them. The oil sludge problem with our last Toyota was a known issue before we bought the Avalon. Whether Toyota didn't have a fix ready or not is questionable, but our Avalon wasn't recalled until it was too late.

    I checked with three Dodge transmission tech. regarding a shutter problem on 2009 RAMs. None have had any problems whatsoever. A check on Chrysler's Technical Network yielded none...repeat, no service inquires regarding a transmission problem on a 2009. There have been no TSBs or software updates issued against '09 transmissions. The 545RFE used behind the 4.7 or the Hemi is far from new. This rock solid design has been around since 2000, and in all these years torque converter shutter complaints have been almost non-existant. My guy here in town said that none of the 2009 RAMs they've sold so far have come back for anything.

    What may appear to be torque converter shutter could be something else. On RFEs, a DRB3 diagnostic check should reveal anything abnormal. Sometimes a PCM clean & reflash will solve unusual issues.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • robert0528robert0528 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 2001 with a 46re. It turn out to be a restriction in
    the auxillary cooler(factory). When my happen it damaged the rear bearing support
    and the over drive clutches and planatary gear set. It took two overhauls where the
    same damage happened before I replace the factory cooler with a aftermarket one.
    I also replaced my torque convertor as it was burnt front fluid starvation. Check
    your flow on the return cooler line(rear). It should drain your trans pan in about
    30 seconds. If you have poor flow, check and replace your cooler, i reccommend
    a aftermarket one as it does not flow through the fins. I also recommend checking
    the over drive unit and the rear bearing support and drum.

    Hope this helps
    Robert
  • 96ram15004x496ram15004x4 Member Posts: 6
    I just wanted to let you know, I picked my truck up today. It was trash in the valve body causing my shifting problems. I have not driven it a whole lot yet, but it seems good so far. $120.00 beats what I was expecting. I wanted to include that the guy who worked on the truck told me that he thought the transmission had indeed been rebuilt recently as the previous owner had said. But he said a rebuild almost never includes ANY work to the valve body or flushing out the trash in the system. So, I would think, if anyone is getting a rebuild, you should make sure to tell your mechanic to do these things. It may save you more trouble later. Thanks again for your advice.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, I'm not surprised that your issue was related to a malfunctioning valve body. On Mopars, that's usually the case. But I have to tell you that in my experience the valve body is always an item that gets cleaned, inspected, and refreshed at rebuild.

    The valve body by its very nature is prone to the effects of debris as the passages are very small. They also contain check balls which can become impacted with silt that affects operation. Pistons and valves and their bores become scratched and worn. On high mileage transmissions, many shops just elect to replace the entire valve body assembly that contains new parts.

    Now as far as purging the cooling lines and system of debris, I tend to agree that this is more likely an area that misses attention by shops, although the better shops are more conscious and thorough. It's to any shop's avantage to do the job right the first time. I wouldn't spend eight hours or more on a rebuild, cleaning and installing new parts, and not check the cooling lines for silt or blockage. The job isn't going to last very long, probably less than 1000 miles, and you're going to be yanking the tranny back out again and also have one pissed off customer. Now the guys that do sloppy work like this will usually say, "something else failed" and charge you for another repair, or just blame the design. And after all, not many people understand the inner workings of an automatic transmission to know the difference.

    Anyway, I hope this resolves the problem for you. Perform routine maintenance on that transmission and you should get another 150,000 fairly troublefree miles out of it or more.

    By the way. My Dodge tranny guy just did a first rebuild on a 46RE in a '94 Ram at 221,000 miles. The front band finally broke. This customer did regular filter changes and flushed the transmission once at 150K.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • keith46keith46 Member Posts: 15
    Please Help! I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 - gas. Transmission went out and replaced it with a jasper transmission. Lasted 1 year $4300.00 later. Yesterday had it rebuilt, drove it home today it was fine the 60 miles home. Shut it off, about 30 minutes later tried to drive to town and it would not come out of 1st gear again. This keeps happening with every transmission. It seems that when it gets hot it wont shift. I have reverse and 1st. gear only. No shops around here can figure it out. Jasper thinks it maybe a sensor, but we replaced all of them, could it be another one? Any suggestions, running out of time and $$. Also, noticed I have a small radiator leak somewhere, could this be part of it, since there is a cooler for the trans in the raditator? Or am I confused?
  • apa228apa228 Member Posts: 2
    I was driving my 1996 Ram 1500 4wd 5.9 truck with 78K on it, when the OD lockout light came on by itself. When I tried to turn it off by pushing the button I could not. When I got where I was going and stopped momentarily the truck sounded like I was revving it in neutral and would not move. I shut it down and then restarted it and I got it to move forward. I then stopped and shifted into reverse but it would not move. I again shut it down and restarted and got it to move in reverse but not in a forward gear. I left the truck overnight with a disconnected battery figuring the PCM needed resetting. I reconnected the battery and the same thing was happening. Decided to drive home by shutting down in neutral when ever the transmission stopped working. It stopped a few times, but I was able to get it to 55 with all proper shift points working. Researched the problem as best I could and settled on the TPS. Changed it and the truck ran well in the neighborhood. Took it on the road and the same thing happened ,except I can now shift into forward and reverse. The new wrinkle is the OD light came on again but went out and stayed out the first time I shut down and re-started it in neutral. I managed to get the truck up to 45-50. When the transmission would begin to slip I shifted into neutral, shut the engine down and coasted for 10-15 seconds and restarted it and shifted it into drive and most of the time it worked fine until I hit 2500 RPM when it would act like it was in neutral. If I hit the throttle quickly I could get it up to 50-55, if I hit it slowly it would only get to 35-40 and slip. As long as I held the throttle steady it would stay in gear most of the time. Once it began to slip I was out of luck. The shifter could be placed in reverse or drive while coasting with the engine running with no effect. I found this out by accident trying to shift to neytral too quickly!
    The nearest transmission shop is 65 miles away. Any ideas on a cause or fix?
  • kmzueskmzues Member Posts: 4
    At 120000 miles i was driving the interstate and overdrive kicked out , a few miles later trans temp lite went on. i imediatly pulled over and shut down the truck for 30 minites. i noticed fluid leaking from the front of the trans . after cooling down drove slowly home , while driving i put the trans into neutral when i could to keep fluid moving but not using trans. my shop guy flushed out trans and removed check valve. truck worked fine for about 500 miles no leaks . then while driving 3rd gear went out , all i had was 1st and reverse ! no trans temp lite ! while limping home i would occasionally go into 3rd them i would lose it again !
    so i changed the filter and fluid (atf+4) and took it for a test drive . it shifted fine for about 2 miles , then 3rd was gone again ! just 1st and reverse. i checked the cooling lines both were cold ! when i changed the fluid i blow out the lines till no trans fluid came out . i also tried to blow compressed air into the line conection on the trans the top connection would accept air to a point then blow fluid back out . the lower would not take any air , like there was a one way valve ? is the trans toast or should i check something else ? i also have a p1740 code coming up .

    thanks for your help !!
    Kevin
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Keith,

    If the same symptom keeps manifesting itself, I'm suspicious the problem was never in the transmission to begin with.

    If the Front Servo and/or the Kickdown Band are okay, and there are no issues with the valve body, it is most likely a governor problem. The governor includes a sensor and a solenoid. I don't know if these items have been replaced, but...the Jasper had a different governor. The only thing common to the two different governor's you've had is the governor electrical wiring and the PCM/TCM.

    Remove the electrical connectors from the transmission and check for signs of moisture, corrosion, or bent terminals. Check the wiring to the PCM and check the electrical connectors there, too. If everything checks okay, I'd suggest putting a DRB2 scan tool on the system and check the PCM/TCM for codes.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, my first suspicion is you've lost hydraulic pressure. Check the following:

    *Low fluid level

    *Clogged filter, cooling lines, and/or cooling tank

    *Clogged or worn valve body and components

    *Internal leak:valve body separator plate, valve body seals, input shaft seals, etc.

    *Broken band, band achor, strut or band lever fell away

    *Overrunning clutch defective

    *Worn pump

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • wvrdwvrd Member Posts: 5
    help this truck began shifting in and out of lockup much to often at nomal driving speeds i change fluid seems to help for a day now problem is back but now getting a code for low governor pressure after a while it goes into limp mode with 2nd geer starts but after 2nd shifts find after clearing codes transmission won't shift to second until 40mph after that shifts out ok till you slow down then samething all over till it goes into limp mode again
    ps i used dextron 3 help my e-mail is wvrd@aol.com
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Dexron-3 was your mistake. Chrysler transmissions can not use Dexron, Mercon, Type-F, or "universal" transmission fluid. They must use Chrysler-spec ATF+3 or ATF+4 depending on the year.

    Using Dexron-3 has likely ruined your transmission and you are looking at a rebuild or replacement.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • apa228apa228 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks-
    I will check it out and let you know what I find.
  • keith46keith46 Member Posts: 15
    Thank you Dusty for replying so fast. Thats what Im thinking, but I dont no much about automobiles. I have had to replace them cause they are getting too hot and burning up, so Im told. So the govener would stop it from shifting to 2 and 3 after the fluid gets hot? Do you think maybe it could also be the cooling system? The mechanic said he flushed it out, but again how would I know that for sure. Should I flush it out again myself, to be sure it has new mix and no leaks? Dusty when the truck is hot and I stop and get out I can smell Anti freeze? Nothing in oil. Wondering if I may have a pin hole somewhere, but cant find it, I will look again today. I live in Colorado at 7500 in elev and drive up to 11,000, sometimes very cold out and when I arrive and shut off the truck things are fine, when I start it up again no 2 or 3. No leaks on the trans.Anything else I can do before they come get it again Saturday for my own peice of mind. Thank you for all your help. What type of PCM/TCM and wiring should I have in there, its 5.9 360 motor.I have replaced all sensor 3 times.
  • getramedgetramed Member Posts: 1
    Or just shift too much. 96 dodge ram 5.2 extended cab 8' box towing package 138000 miles. rebuilt powerplant 6000 miles ago. This past january, temps were -0 degrees at night and daytime highs less than 15 degrees. I noticed truck having trouble shifting 2nd to 3rd OD on, or OD off. Then I noticed truck is shifting 3 times with OD off and 4 times with OD on, it's picking up passing gear as it shifts thru gears, passing gear requires higher RPM to shift into ( kick down from 3rd or OD ) so it seems like it is slipping, drive it harder it shifts good but still picks up passing gear, drive it harder motor twists up somewhere way past 4000 RPM and scoots like a [non-permissible content removed] for it's size. While this may be fun, in the back of my mind I worry about spitting the trans out the bottom of the truck. Of all the things I have done to cars automatic trans are not a strong point, in my cars & trucks if the auto went I would pull it toss it and put in a manual trans ( it's what I prefer ) but manual trans's for these trucks are a myth, I've heard stories and rumours they exist but are rare. So all of that being said, I am an unemployed carpenter with no cash that has built cars since the beginning of time and I need a little help, so if someone has a clue as to what is wrong with this trans I would be indebted to you Thanks, KEN
  • fpaimfpaim Member Posts: 1
    I have recently had the same problem with my 03 3500. The cooler under the fuel filter on the block has coolant lines that run with the tranny fluid. This is were the two fluids get mixed. I have changed the cooler and flushed the tranny. I was unable to get all the water out of the tranny and currently still working on it. The cooler was almost $500 dollars.
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