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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • dave8697dave8697 Member Posts: 1,498
    I'm going to buy a '99 Sonoma with the dash lights out. Did you find out how to fix it? Could there be an inline fuse or a relay stuck open?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Are the tail lights working, they are on the same circuit.
  • greasymonkey3greasymonkey3 Member Posts: 7
    hi this is my first post my 1992 s1o digital dash cluster went out after i got into a wreck i checked all the fuses and their fine i also wire tested the plug for the display and the only ones that have power are the lights that are on the parking break and check engine lights. is there a relay or an inline fuse that could be out? thanks.
  • sharpspursharpspur Member Posts: 4
    I still have been unable to find any info on the issue. Really annoying. Yes, the taillights work. In fact, all of the other lights work.
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    Maybe you have a short, does the fuse keep blowing. idk..
  • estaveestave Member Posts: 2
    2003 Chevy S10 crewcab 4.3L Power locks,windows and mirrors dont work. Replaced door/lock switch dealers shop said it was corroded. Door locks blow fuses everytime. Ignition wire replaced to repair nonfunctional gauges, but cruise control doesn't work either.Help
  • estaveestave Member Posts: 2
  • sickshoesbrahsickshoesbrah Member Posts: 14
    Well if it blows the fuse everytime then you have a short somewhere.
  • dave8697dave8697 Member Posts: 1,498
    I'm going to buy a '99 Sonoma with the dash lights out. Did you find out how to fix it? Yes, the tail lights do work. One back up light is out. The cab top brake light cover is melted through above both bulbs, letting water in. When prev owner tried to change the bulbs he said the new bulb exploded immediately so he left them out. The radio display works in daytime and when the sensor senses darkness and turns on the cluster lights and dims the radio display, everything goes dark, the radio and the entire cluster. I called chev dlr and they said they would check fuses, then two different relays and then an in-line fuse. I'm going to start by getting a new cab top brake cover and drying it out in there. Then I'm gonna get a new back up bulb and check all fuses. then I'm gonna try new cab top brake light bulbs. Then I will look for relays under the dash or in the fuse box. I just got the truck 5 days ago and had to drive it up from Fla. Tomorrow's my first day to mess with it. Anybody got any other ideas?
  • dave8697dave8697 Member Posts: 1,498
    all fuses chacked and found to be OK. brake 3rd light above cab had holes in cover from intense heat who knows how long ago. holes plugged now with RTV. leadframe assy heat damaged that bulbs mount in. Could heat that melted holes in cover have melted leadframe leads together in plastic housing causing short that killed instr cluster lights? I will be looking for a new leadframe assembly. Anyone know where relays for day/night sensor that turns on instr cluster lights is? Dome light on flip side of 3rd brake light still works.
  • jfogelbergjfogelberg Member Posts: 3
    1998 GMC Sonoma, runs fine for a while (30 minutes or so). Then the volt gage begins to "twitch", it drops below 14 amps, and pulsates with the turn signals. After 30 seconds or so, it then drops to 12 amps maybe 11 amps, and the truck then dies. When driving, it is not unusual to watch the volt gauge begin to pulsate and drop till the truck dies. Wait a few minutes...can drive again..till next episode. Replaced the battery, alternator, fuel pump. Question is, is there something that regulates the electrical system? I've had the alternator checked out, and the shop says it is functioning normal. Accellerate, air conditioning on, the volts guage drops on their equipment. Run the AC in the real world driving, and I don't have a prayer in getting to where I'm going. It will die. Any ideas? suggestions?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    This how I check out an electrical system. I put a volt meter across the battery terminals to read voltage. I then load the system and watch my voltage readings. At 1500 RPM the voltage should be at least 13-13.5 volts with everything on.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Sounds like you might have a corroded cable or wire. After it gets warm from the current, it stops conducting all together. Sometimes bad cables are not obvious to the eye because the bad spots are hidden by the plastic insulation. Or sometimes you might have a bad ground connection. In both cases they start out part time vice full blown problems, which makes it hard to trouble shoot.

    I don’t understand why you changed the fuel pump though. That’s a monumental task in itself.

    When I have radical electrical inconsistencies I usually start with the battery cables and go hand over hand, step by step looking for flaws. Things like where road salt and slop have been working on connections. Also, if I come on a cable or wire that has a lump in it like a snake that just swallowed an egg, I would consider it suspect.

    As you can testify, most automotive electrical problems are time consuming. Let us know what you find out. Good Luck :)
  • jfogelbergjfogelberg Member Posts: 3
    Replaced the fuel pump because I found out it was in the gas tank. Truck only died when the weather got warm and someone suggested that fuel pumps were faulty (original) and would shut down when they got warm. After replacing it, I was told it was faulty - although now I'm still not sure if it was or wasn't. I've had this problem for going on 4 years now.

    So it could be almost any electrical cable then??
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Four years! Your patience is that of a Saint. I think in my case, I would be looking for a Thermite grenade.

    To answer your original question on what regulates the electrical system – on GM’s for many years now the voltage regulator is built into the alternator. Since you have changed out the alternator and still have the same problem, it is unlikely the regulator was the culprit.

    I wouldn’t say the electrical problem is just any cable or wire. But I would suggest the break down or slow down in the electrical continuity has to do with a leading or predominate cable or wire. Maybe loose connection, loose bolt to a bonding strap, bad terminal eyes going to alternator, loose wiring harness junction going through the firewall, wiring cable going into battery cable lugs corroded to the point only a couple of strands are left, these all are points of interest.

    Put on your gloves and your Tom Terrific thinking cap. You don’t have to worry about breaking it if it’s already broke. Part of being an effective “Shade Tree Mechanic” is tenacity. Good luck Champ. :shades:
  • tilesetter28tilesetter28 Member Posts: 4
    Chevy and Gmc do not know how to make a dependable truck get a Ford Ranger or a dodge dakota. I am yet to have any trouble with my Ford or my dodge both of them have over 200k miles
  • tomster71889tomster71889 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i have a 1992 sonoma and all the sudden my tail lights and turn signals stoped working. my head lights still work but none of the other lights do. on my dash the two turn signal lights are lit up when i turn the lights on and when i push the brake in the two turn signal lights come on until i let of the brake pedal. i have no idea what happend to it of how to fix it????
  • bcherrybcherry Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 GMC Sonoma and just today the blinkers stoped working. I checked the fuses and are all fine and some how the hazzard lights work. The blinker switch gos on when I put the bilnker on but the light does not and after a turn It shuts off. If any one can help I will be very thankful.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Sounds like either the flasher for the turn signals are kaput (unlikely) or one of the bulbs is defective. The emergency lights have their own flasher. Sometimes water gets into the parking and taillights that causes them to corrode. Being that your emergency flashers work, turn them on and walk around checking for defective lights. Chances are that what ever the problem is its related to a bad ground, bad bulb receptacle, or burnt out bulb. Good luck. :)
  • blazer74blazer74 Member Posts: 1
    HEY I WAS JUST WOUNDERING IF YOU FOUND OUT THE PROBLEM WITH YOUR SONOMA BECAUSE MY 1998 S-10 DOES THE SAME THING AND IVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE IT OUT FOR AT LEAST A YEAR NOW. IVE TOOK IT TO THE DEALER THEY COULDNT FIND A PROBLEM BECAUSE IT WOULNT DO IT TO THEM, IVE EVEN TAKEN IT TO ANOTHER SHOP AND IT WOULDNT DIE ON THEM EATHIER AND EVEN THOUGH THE VOLT METER WOULD DROP THEY SAID THE VOLTAGE WAS STILL GOOD. MINE WILL DO IT OFF AND ON IT WILL BE FINE FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS THEN THE NEXT COUPLE IT STARTS ITS CRAP AGAIN. I HATE IT SO IF YOU FOUND OUT ANYTHING LET ME KNOW
  • mh60gurumh60guru Member Posts: 3
    I signed up for this website because of your post. I have a 98 S-10 2.2L with the identical problem. I've replaced the alternator, which seemed to work for a month or two because my volt meter held steady at 14 amps. But the problem is back with my meter usually reading about 13. Then occasionally it will begin to drop and even twitch when a turn signal is on, just like yours. Once it gets down to about 10-11 my electrical goes hay-wire and the truck dies out. My truck is a manual so I can put it in neutral, and restart it as I'm coasting down the road...and it will run fine. This may happen a few times in a day and then no problems for weeks!

    Everybody I've talked to has of course told me that there's a short or loose ground somewhere. I've cleaned every connection and ground that I can get to. The only thing I haven't been able to really check is the starter because you have to remove the exhaust pipe to get to it on the 2.2L and those bolts are not coming off for me in my driveway. Have you had any luck figuring out your problem? Thanks.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    I have a 99 2.2 Sonoma and I can drop the starter with out removing the down pipe.
    Can't remember the exact procedure but it was easy. I think both support braces and the cross bracket.
  • larry71larry71 Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday while backing out of driveway my AC/Fans quite working. In addition the radio/clock stopped. Clock/radio came back. Then fuel gauge/temp gauge went out. Back on this morning. yesterday the wipers/wash would not work. Still don't. Lights for what gear you are in are out. Come on briefly on start. Wipers/wash out. If radio is on and I swith on AC to see if it works radio goes out. What is going on?
  • oldtimer7oldtimer7 Member Posts: 2
    My 98 S-10 (2.2L w/135K miles) also has a wandering dash voltmeter. I have cleaned, inspected, and replaced every ground connection, both visible and hidden. New battery, starter, and alternator haven't made any difference. The problem is unpredictable, has once put the battery light on, and even caused stalling under load. I have just purchased a $600 scanning tool and discovered that no codes are stored. The voltage data taken, while parked and driven, is what the ECM sees. The dash voltmeter is showing the actual reading, going into the computer, regardless of the battery terminal voltage. I am reading, at the ECM, 13.5V to 14.2V under normal conditions, then the slow decline begins and can drop to 11.9V. Then , without warning, go back up to the 13V+ range. My next step is to install a new ignition switch which I've just received. It is a scary looking 22 inch mass of 13 wires and four connectors. I'm still looking for a decent reference for installing it. Also, I just ordered, from the dealer, a full set of pos. and neg. battery cables for $216, including the 175 amp fuse for the cable junction block under the battery tray. Oh, and I have a good SW ammeter going into the circuit to compare to the voltage readings. I will report on the results after all the new stuff is installed. I'm convinced that this is an age/resistance/temperature problem that is affecting the charging system. Voltage doesn't just change unless current and/or resistance changes, too (Ohm's Law). I think we're all chasing symptoms, when the problem is an inadequate primary system that overwhelms the alternator and battery. I'm thinking a FOR SALE sign might be added to my list.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Your on the right track with the ignition switch, common problem on high time trucks. $216 for battery cables, oh my gosh, I would have bought aftermarket.
  • wearthywearthy Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem I have 3 diffrent dashed and none of them work they could all be junk but i dont know have you salved your problem yet?
  • wearthywearthy Member Posts: 2
    It is the chip on your key go get a new key made
  • mh60gurumh60guru Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info Oldtimer7. My next step is also to replace all of my battery cables. But I'd like to wait until you post your results since they are $216 per set! And just as an update, my truck died on me three times on the way home from work to day. It's an ill feeling just watching the volt meter drop and knowing that it's going to die in a matter of seconds. If I don't figure something out soon, I may just skip the FOR SALE sign and go directly to pushing it off the nearest cliff! If so many people have had this problem, why hasn't Chevrolet addressed this!
  • oldtimer7oldtimer7 Member Posts: 2
    This is a quick update while I'm waiting for one more cable to arrive at the dealer. These cables don't look like anything you've handled before. Complicated! The ground has three connections (chassis, body, and engine); the positive from the battery goes to the starter (one cable), to the junction block under the battery tray with a 175 amp fuse (second cable), from the second post on the junction block to the alternator with a fuse link (third cable), and a separate fourth cable from the first post on the junction block to the other side of the engine compartment where the first of two fuse panels exists on the fender apron. Aftermarket won't go near these!
    I had a long talk with the regional electrical guru from GM who visits all the local dealers to solve whatever the regular techs have given up on. Here are some highlights of our discussion . . . .
    1. There is NO single item that shows up in these complaints that prompts the techs to head for a common culprit.
    2. My developing conclusion that it is a charging problem is correct. The voltage regulator is confused!
    3. The entire primary system is too long, has too many connections, and deteriorates in various parts of cables and connection to contribute to an increasing resistance that taxes the limits of the alternator.
    4. The fluctuations in the dash voltmeter are exactly what the computer is "seeing".
    5. Measuring the voltage at the battery doesn't tell you enough.
    6. The battery must be checked for specific gravity by cell, and load tested to verify if it is healthy enough to be eliminated, or is a suffering contributor to the overall problem. Remember, it becomes a victim of poor charging.
    7. The fluctuations in the voltmeter are showing the actual response of the voltage regulator to the system demands.
    8. The alternator is not strong enough for the applications.
    9. The regulator (inside the alternator) is controlled by the PCM which is not always calling for the correct response from the alternator. Because the system combines so many loops, the power budget is often confused as to the correct voltage/amperage.
    10. ANY deterioration in the system of circuits (large or small) contribute to misleading readings within the system monitored by the computer.
    11. The battery cables, all grounds, and connections must be in primo condition. Since current is flowing in so many directions, any marginal conductivity is curtains.
    12. Be careful to avoid questionable aftermarket components since the items may not be close enough to OE specs to really repair the problem.
    13. Sometimes the dealer has the only quality Delphi part that you want to invest in.
    14. This whole issue is a prime example of what we have to look forward to when ever increasingly complex vehicle systems get old. This is the classic example of the engineers not being there to see what they've created many years down the road. Remember, we do the real testing, and this one is failing. For us to eliminate all of these electrical headaches, we have to keep the systems and circuits as close to "new" as possible.
    When I receive the rest of my stuff from the dealer, install it, and test it, I'm going to make my results known. I do still intend to change the ignition switch which might require pulling the steering wheel (air bag!). Still referencing this one (?).
    I used to be a repeat Ford truck owner, right now I doubt the I'm going to dwell in the GM camp much longer. I'm tired of consoling my friends who drive Dodges . . . . . what do I turn to (Japanese?)?
    If you have any questions, please ask me.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Oldtimer remember when the bat cable positive went to the starter and all other positive feeds went from there.
    I would not pay for $216 battery cables.
    I have lived long enough to know there is a work around to most any thing.
  • montedude85montedude85 Member Posts: 1
    i have also had the same trouble i bought a piece of 4GA high voltage cable and rerouted the starter wire because i found mine wedged into the motor mount and was just about cut in half
  • crealcreal Member Posts: 1
    I've put new wires ,coil, dist., coil control unit all of these I've put on twice since december tried high performance ignition parts too. Still night inspection looks like a lazer light show..
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Try OEM wires and plugs.
  • jbushee007jbushee007 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 S10 and it blows the AC fuse every time the switch is turned to any AC mode but if I replace th fuse while turned to Vent and the blower and all works OK. I have disconnected the compressor wires and it still blows. Any help on how to fix it would be great because the AZ heat is killer with no AC.

    Thanks,
  • w3axxw3axx Member Posts: 2
    I just repaired a crazy, intermittent problem that I have been having for the past couple years with my 98 s10 wipers. I removed the cover of the wiper motor housing and pulled out the circuit board (was all rather easy to do) and found four bad solder joints on the board. Reheated those joints and applied a little solder and it is now working great. The joints that were bad were the ones to the connector to the wire harness ..... the largest tabs on the circuit board (probably the reason they were bad .... they didn't get heated enough in original manufacturing operation!!)
  • jbushee007jbushee007 Member Posts: 4
    I had that problem last year and fixed it with a new wiper module from Autozone for about $25. My current problem is linked to the AC, Blower, or one of the parts in that system but I can't find it because it starts working when I trouble shot.
  • w3axxw3axx Member Posts: 2
    Wow! 25 bucks for a new module wasn't bad at all. I was feeling all "pumped up" cause I thought I saved myself from buying a $200 part !!!! ha ha ha The blower motor ...... hate those kinds of problems ... when they start working by the time you take it apart !! Be on the look out for bad solder joints (need a magnifying glass to see them) cause thats the way they often act up. GL
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Not bad solder joints, vibration problem.
  • mh60gurumh60guru Member Posts: 3
    oldtimer.....just curious if you've had any luck with your problem? I just got my S-10 back from the repair shop. It died out on me on the way home from work last week. I thought this was my electrical problem finally crapping out my computer. It turned out to be a bad catalytic converter. But since it was at the Chevy dealership I had them take a look at the electrical problem. Of course the answer they gave me was that the alternator was going bad. I know that's not the problem because I just put a brand new one in there. I had visions of them telling me it was 10 different things before it was ever fixed and me being out $2500! So I told them thanks, but no thanks and brought her home.
  • jbushee007jbushee007 Member Posts: 4
    My AC electrical problem ended up being a bad compressor clutch or bad pressure switch I'm not sure which one or both but since the switch is in the back of the compressor I am replacing both to make sure.
  • 02accord02accord Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 Sonoma SLS 2.2 with 62000 miles that I recently purchased. I've been noticing that occassionally, the starter motor barely turns over (at first), while other times it is fine -- doesn't seem to matter if the car is hot or cold. It appears that the battery is relatively new (it was replaced last Nov).

    Is this what starters do before they die? Should I get a new starter, or is this an electrical gremlin?

    Thanks!

    Stephen
  • tjacoby4tjacoby4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 gmc sonoma. One day I had a problem with the dash lights there were none, turn on the dome light the floor lights come on. No tail lights. Start the truck turn off dome light it stays on. I pulled it into my garage to check the electrical problems. Fuses are good. No crossed wires or fraied ones. Needless can't find the problem. So I go to mare the truck out and it will not turn over. It is not spraying. Fuel pump does run. Can anyone help?
  • ncchickadeencchickadee Member Posts: 1
    ok. so my truck is an 2003 S-10 with 65k on it. about two weeks ago, it started making this really high pitched buzz from the center console behind the dash and then the RPMs dropped WAY down when it idles. to the point it stalled when i took my foot off the gas (it's an automatic, and therefore not supposed to stall.). i had a mechanic friend look at it, it has a battery, the alternator is good, but we couldn't get it to start. i had it towed and my shop couldn't replicate the problem, i took it home. i just took it out tonight and it started fine but all the warning lights on the dashboard lit up for a second, then went out. then went on. then went out. it said my parking brake was on, it wasn't, and it said my seat belt wasn't on, it was. it didn't stall, it idled fine, and then the whole thing shut off, and the clock on the radio reset itself. the dome lights still work, the radio works, but it wouldn't start at all. i waited about two minutes and it started fine and i was able to make it home.

    can anyone tell me what the heck is going on? they plugged it in and couldn't get any codes, and all the fuses are apparently ok.

    i'm a fairly small woman and i have to drive through some fairly rough neighborhoods on my way to campus, and i really don't want to get stranded, especially since i have no idea what the problem is. HELP!!
  • greasymonkey3greasymonkey3 Member Posts: 7
    no i was still trying but i gave up and bought another truck and am using that one for parts but i dont think it was the display itself i tested all the plugs for power and had none. and couldnt find out why.
  • fiveheadfivehead Member Posts: 2
    I was installing a cd player in my 97 s10 and when i pulled the dash apart i broke the hazard light switch off. Now when i put the brakes on both the signal lights come on, so i got a buddy that works at a junkyard to find me one , but the only one he could find with no cruise control was out of a 98 s10 . Will this one work in my 97 s10?
  • fiveheadfivehead Member Posts: 2
    There should be a switch on the brake pedal somewhere locate it and replace it it's probably bad or needs adjustment..
  • knoxy2007knoxy2007 Member Posts: 1
    :cry: I HAVE A 92 CHEVY S10 SONOMA. I THINK I HAVE A SORT OR A BAD GROUND BUT DON'T KNOW WHERE TO GO FROM THERE. THE LEFT BLINKER WORKS ONLY. WHEN YOU TURN ON HEAD LIGHTS THE BLINKERS DON'T WORK AT ALL, AND THE BRAKE LIGHTS STAY ON ALL THE TIME. AT TIMES EVEN WHEN YOU TURN THE BLINKER ON THE WIPERS START UP. AND ONE OTHER PROBLEM ON MY HEATER YOU CAN'T AJUST THE BLOWER SETTING. YOU EVEN HAVE TO POP THE HOOD TAP THE RELAY JUST TO GET IT TO WORK THE LITTLE IT DOES.
    ANY IDEAS!!!!!
  • philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    Replying to: awade (Jul 18, 2007 7:49 pm)

    99 out of 100, it's always a bad ground when things look alien.
    Ground will seek out anything to make a circuit, as in making false lights light up, dimming of others and so forth.

    Check ground connection at radiator core support from battery terminal.
    Also add a ground from battery to other body panels, fender, back to the engine anywhere. Use #10 gauge wire.

    Replace poor looking battery cables.

    Sand clean the body ground connection and use a good grease before mounting it.

    Clean and wire brush cables and battery terminals so the shine, apply grease on connections and clamp tight as possible so that if you grab cable it cannot move or twist at the battery connection.

    Good Luck
  • dan120dan120 Member Posts: 3
    Hey i have the exact same truck with the exact same problem any idea of what it is have you got it fixed yet? i was thinking it was the head light switch but i dont know just a guess. Please respond asap.

    Thanks :sick:
  • dan120dan120 Member Posts: 3
    Is This article for the 96 Headlight problem. My headlights go on and off when i drive. where do i look for the ground wire. can you be really specific on how i can find it.

    Thanks,
    Dan :confuse:
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