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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe AC and Heater Problems

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Comments

  • justsylviatjustsylviat Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Cary, much appreciated!
  • joefixit2joefixit2 Member Posts: 1
    For my 2001 Suburban, I can get heat in the back but none in the front. A/C and blower still work just no heat.

    -Getting hot going in and out of the heater core so I don't think it is plugged
    -Got enough coolant in the system
    -Tried a new blend door actuator but that did not appear to help. While turning the temp knob, the actuator was moving but then it stopped moving. Put the new actuator on and it didn't move either.
    -Went to the junkyard and got a heater control from another 2001 and put it in and still no movement with the actuator.

    What the heck could be the problem? This is my wife's car and she doesn't really want a cold car in the morning. And let's be honest, if she ain't happy, ain't no one happy.
  • jimc2001jimc2001 Member Posts: 1
    2003 Suburban, no heat is delivered to the driver's side. Defroster, vents and floor vents all blow cold air (brrr) on the drivers' side only. Passenger side and all the rear vents work fine with lots of heat. A/C works fine for all vents in the summertime. Any help please. And yes, the temperature sliders are both all the way to the top (max heat). Thank you.
  • gap2010gap2010 Member Posts: 1
    On three occassions, I have noticed the a/c in my 2008 Surburban running on it's own without the engine running or key in the ignition. Is this normal? Why does it do this or is there a problem? Thanks.
  • jackjill22jackjill22 Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 tahoe just did the exact thing, what did you conclude was the problem with your driver side heat?
  • casper69casper69 Member Posts: 1
    Curious to know if you ever found a solution to this problem. My Tahoe is doing the exact same thing and we cannot find anyone around here willing to give us information without paying an arm and a leg for it.
  • dlongneckerdlongnecker Member Posts: 1
    I was having problems with my 2004 Chev 2004 not blowing out any heat from the floor or face vents; it was only blowing from the defrost. This happened after my battery died.

    I found the information online about pulling about the 10amp fuze for the ECM and let it stay off for 10 minutes and then plug it in and let the computer reset itself. I did that, and it WORKED!

    Also had a problem where my rear-air wouldn't blow hot air, so I thought I would try the steps again. Now, my display on the Digital Climate control won't work at all. THe little lights for the defrosters won't come on....doesn't work at all. I checked a few of the fuses to see if they were blown, but they look good.

    Any suggestions?
  • ddohertyddoherty Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys,

    I have a 1999 lifted 'Burban which has developed a clicking/grinding noise when moving. It sounds like it's coming from the middle of the vehicle. I notice it only when moving, and the noise occurs concurrently with the speed of the vehicle. When idling it is absent, same when revving the engine in park. It sounds like metal/metal clicking or grinding.

    I recently had the rear-end replaced due to a previously incorrectly installed differential. At the time of repair I had no issues, but this came about and is worsening. I feel that it is something with the driveshaft (but I know barely anything about cars), as it only occurs when the wheels are moving. I hate to bring it to a shop without an idea of what is wrong. Any suggestions?
  • crash_1991crash_1991 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my 99 suburban and i figured it out. the caliper was loose on the drivers side front tire. check your brakes, rotors, and calipers on the front wheels, make sure nothings loose. hope this is helpful to you
  • ddohertyddoherty Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip! I'll check that out. Would a loose caliper affect my braking? I just had the master cylinder replaced and the whole brake system bled, but I still feel that the braking is mushy, for lack of a better term. This is definitely something I'll investigate. Thanks!
  • nohlsnohls Member Posts: 1
    Curious to know if you ever found a solution to this problem. My 2000 Tahoe is doing the exact same thing and my auto repairman can't figure it out....Thanks
  • highmiles2highmiles2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2004 Suburban with problems. I had a problem with my ac last summer and they replaced the compressor I believe, but now I have no heat or ac but the mechanic noticed a hole in some pipe when he had my hood opened last weekend. My car will hit 350,000 miles tomorrow and I am determined to keep it, so I am getting it fixed. If there is anything unusual, I will post it but it is just hit or miss whenever I have a problem and the car is paid for and still cheaper than a car payment. I just wish it got better mileage!!!
  • realdeal3realdeal3 Member Posts: 3
    Hello, am having a problem with my A/C when i hit the AC button all it does is blink have anyone had this problem before
  • yysgirlyysgirl Member Posts: 3
    Did you by any chance drive through water? Is it raining? I had to do some searching on this site and figured out that the sensors under my hood were damaged and need to be replaced. If I drive through rain/water and it splashes, my light blinks until the sensors dry.
  • realdeal3realdeal3 Member Posts: 3
    It happen right @ winter time so this is the 1st time since it gotten hot i have tried it which sensor was it cause everyone keep telling me its goin to cost like $600 to replace the ac unit so im trying all the cheap thing 1st to see if thats the problem
  • realdeal3realdeal3 Member Posts: 3
    anyone else had this problem
  • yukonhunteryukonhunter Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem while moving only. I checked the braked but agree that the sound is from the driveshaft area somewhere. I replaced all the ujoints and still the clicking. Really noticeable when on the freeway against a wall.
    I have been told the bearings could be the issue but its coming from the middle of the SUV.
    Did you get yours fixed?
  • mlaniermlanier Member Posts: 23
    I bought this vehicle from a dealer, and after a week the rear air would only blow hot air. I contacted them about the problem, they diagnosed it as the blend door actuator. So I replaced it and still had the same problem. I found an electronic piece connected to the duct system, I disconnected this piece and the actuator allowed cool air through the system , but not cold air, my question is to anyone that can answer it, is this piece I found a thermostat for the rear air system? Thanks for any reply
  • tank6617tank6617 Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2007
    I have a 2000 Tahoe. When I turn on my AC it works fine until I the rpm's are raised to about 2000 rpm. I then get a loud rattle under the hood. I have replaced the belts and tensionner and still get the same noise. Still no problem with AC it cools fine. Any suggestions?
  • gpd151gpd151 Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2003 Tahoe with 109k miles. Beautiful condition and the only big problem I have is the automatic heat controls. If I set the controls to 75, it will freeze me out. If I set the controls to 80, it will freeze me out. If I set the controls to 65, it will freeze me out. So the A/C works, and that is a plus... However, I have to turn the dials to 90 to max them out before I feel heat, which it puts out good heat, but only from the floor.

    My upper panel for the rear, as well as the rear control panel, they have either off, or full cold, and never get hot air.

    The PCM doesn't show any codes, aside from the front airbag sensor. I've got a couple months before the heater will be necessary, so where do I begin?

    Thanks
  • steve450steve450 Member Posts: 3
    My 2006 suburban has had a few electical issues, and the dealers were going to charge me a lot 2 different times, and they were wrong. The power of the internet is the only way to keep them a little honest, any way I have a problem with the blower motor running after the car is off with the keys out and doors closed. Need any good help I can get. also would never buy another chevy again.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good afternoon steve450,

    I see that you've been into your dealership to have this looked into already; if you would like for us to follow up on this with the, please send us the following information via email at socialmedia@gm.com so we can update our system and get a Service Request going: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • steve450steve450 Member Posts: 3
    No thanks you work for GM. I would rather bash your company, I have already contacted your company and have a personal rep. The items I was speaking of were 2 other issues, for which were wrongly diagnosed By Alpine GMC, and Emich, Of the Denver area. Your company has had some of these issues dating back to the early 2000's and they were never addressed. One of them was a power seat control drivers side,and seat heat both sides. They said I needed a new control module at Alpine, but while reading information on the internet I discovered information about a problem with the plug underneath the seat. I'm assuming that the plug pins create too much reistance for the voltage which makes the wires overheat which actually make the wires get hot which in my mind could create a fire hazard. Make a plug and pins bigger to handle the issue is my remedy. But until GM is held accountable things wont change. I wont bother you with the other one right now but it went from an $800.00 fix from the dealer to my $40.00 fix. I found the first fix on the internet which Im assuming no GM mechancs read.
  • steve450steve450 Member Posts: 3
    Sorry for the mispelling resistance.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited August 2012
    You have 30 minutes after posting to edit posts here. Not that it much matters since we're all fluent in chat typo. :)
  • dezbdezb Member Posts: 14
    I Have had to have my rear AC fixed. can't recall the issue. I have now had all of my door locks replaced. Thank God for the extended warranty that something told me to buy when I purchased my 2008 Tahoe. I have neVER had the need for an extended warranty before. Our 2000 GMC Sierra takes a licking and keeps on ticking, but I don;t think I will purchase a CHEVY product any time soon. I will be trading in my Tahoe before the extended warranty expires. It is a shame, because it rides nice when running properly. The dealership (Freeway Chevy) knows me by name, which is sad. The dealership is great, but the product is not. My husband told me that his company, a long time chevy buyer, is now going to purchase Ford work trucks because the chevy trucks they have are experiencing some type of wiring problems on the new trucks. This is a shame because they purchase many trucks every year. This is a shame. We were going to cosign for our daughter to purchase a malibu, but due to the poor quality of chevy lately, we are now looking at Honda and Nissan products. We have always been firm believers in buying American, but not when you are losing this kind of money.
  • krd120203krd120203 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Subruban, at times I am earing a high pitch noise through the radio speakers. The pitch goes up and down and follows the RPMs as the motor shifts up and down. Does anyone know what the possible cause might be. Thought it was the altinator, switched it out and it is still doing it. Any help or guidance would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
  • pabdouchpabdouch Member Posts: 2
    WHen temp setting is all the way to Cold, AC works as expected. When I bump the temperature setting on the dash one notch towards WARM, it goes to full heater. No gradations. I suspect blender door actuator. Does anyone know where it is (I think there are more than 1?) Is it easily accessable or does dash have to come off?
  • aswann75aswann75 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 suburban loaded and my heater and air will not blow out until my RPM's go up like on the interstate and at that point it blows out hot or cold air but my rear vents work fine...the thermostat for that is at a different place. What could be causing this?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    aswann75,
    We understand if you're looking for some do-it-yourself advice as the vehicle is outside of any applicable warranties by time, if not also by mileage. If you did decide to work with a dealership on this and wanted for us to work with you through that process, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, and the last 8 digits of your VIN).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • travelgirl2travelgirl2 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I had the same exact problem and I fixed mine myself and saved me $100's of dollars!!!! Here's what I did......I went to YouTube and searched for the exact issue and I found this AWESOME video and website called Sparky.com he shows you how to troubleshoot the blower motor resistor. I followed exact instructions, went to the part store puchased the blower motor resistor and replaced it with NO problems. This happens when your blower motor resistor gets wet from A/C or rain via a clogged drain tube.

    Here's the video to watch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0mDPW9P5VU

    Good Luck!!
  • doodygibbsdoodygibbs Member Posts: 1
    first of all I changed the instrument cluster and heater control already. first problem is ac/heat only comes out of the defrost. then the next is, when you hit the snowflake to turn ac on it goes hot but when you turn ac off it blows ice cold. can anyone tell me how to fix it?
  • runamuck7runamuck7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2012 2500 Suburban that has a problem getting the compressor to start after a hot soak. This only happens during the hottest part of the summer here in Arizona and has done it since new. The dealer has not been able do duplicate the problem, I showed them a video of the malfunction during it's current visit there. With the ambient temp of 110F+, during a restart after a hot soak period, the compressor does not want to come on. During the non-op, the system insists on outside air. The compressor light will light for a moment than turn off. Push for recirculate, the light will lite for a moment and then shut off, then the compressor light will shut off and stay off. This argument will continue for 2-15 minutes before the system decides it wants to come on. After it does decide to come on, the system will revert back to outside air when it starts to cool down in the cab and I will have to push the button to get it to go back to recirculate. If it makes any difference in diag, the engine is the 6.0, it has the trailer package and it is a 4 X 4. Also, when it is this hot, the engine will get hot during longer idle times (15-20 minutes). The truck does not have a pusher fan in front of the condensor. The temp gauge will go to the 3/4 mark past 210F, the fan clutch does engage the fan. Fast idle at about 1200 RPM will get it to come down. I work out in the heat, my wife dosen't. Thank you for your help.
  • spritemanspriteman Member Posts: 25
    I am thinking that due to the high temps your system could be in a very high pressure state in the refrigerant which would cause the system to shut down.

    Here's the info for a 2008 Suburban 2500 - that's the latest I have. I don't know if yours works the same way but I would expect it's at least similar. It explains how the A/C system works - hope this helps:

    The A/C system used on this vehicle is a non cycling system. Non cycling A/C systems use a high pressure switch to protect the A/C system from excessive pressure. The high pressure switch will OPEN the electrical signal, to the compressor clutch, in the event that the refrigerant pressure becomes excessive. After the high and low side of the A/C system pressure equalize, the high pressure switch will CLOSE. Closing the high pressure switch will complete the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch. The A/C system is also mechanically protected with the use of a high pressure relief valve. If the high pressure switch were to fail or if the refrigerant system becomes restricted and refrigerant pressure continued to rise, the high pressure relief will pop open and release refrigerant from the system.

    Let us know what you find out.

    Spriteman
  • haterepairshaterepairs Member Posts: 1
    I just had my compressor replaced and my air is blowing cold while I moving but when I'm at a stand still, it blows warm. HELP!!
  • dsmcneildsmcneil Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    I have a 2003 Chevy Suburban 1500, when I turn on my a/c or heat it sometimes comes on and sometimes not. If it comes on , it sometimes shuts off by itself or it will stay running even after the vehicle it shut off. Sometimes we have to remove the fuse in the fuse box under the hood and leave it out until we get back in the vehicle. When the a/c is on it is very cold and the heat is very hot as well. Could the relay be bad or could it be something else? Does anyone have these same issues and if so has your issue been resolved? Can someone please help, not sure where to start. Thanks in advance. I can be contacted at darstevemcneil@gmail.com
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Emails may get you personal help but not help others. Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum.Thanks.
  • bruijnbruijn Member Posts: 1
    Our 2007 Suburban [5.3 FFV - LTZ trim] has a cold AC in front, but blows warm air for rear passengers.
    AC has been refilled twice, interior temp.sensors checked [and one replaced].
    GM dealer in the Netherlands is out of any good ideas what might cause the problem.

    Anyone who has a clue....

    Thanks!
  • spritemanspriteman Member Posts: 25
    Two checks:

    1 - you need to check to see if you are generating cold refrigerant in the auxiliary expansion valve in the rear unit - take the right hand cover off of the rear/auxiliary unit and feel that when the unit is running that a cold line is coming from the expansion valve. If it is that's good because otherwise you have a more involved fix.

    2 - when you turn on the rear unit and the blower is running do you feel any kind of air coming out of the rear air vents?

    These two checks will at least give you a starting point of what's wrong.

    SM
  • seanyboyseanyboy Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    My 2000 chev tahoe is having issues with dual climate control. Both front and back blowers are not working. sometimes front will come on in high but no ac or door actuators work.. Also not sure if issue is related but my dash has died no tach no speedo no guages. truck starts fine and runs great. Any suggestions
  • thprethpre Member Posts: 1
    Too Hot!!! , On a 45 degree day couldn't you just roll down your window a bit and nevermind the air cond.?
  • domulatordomulator Member Posts: 2
    wondering if anyone can help me here. i have a 2003 z71 a while back i lost fan speeds 1 thru 4 on my a/c & heater control. I also lost the rear defroster around this time. I checked fuses. that didnt seem to be the problem. to get any a/c or heat i had to use the fan speed on 5 since that was the only speed i had left to use. well i lost that the other day and now i have no fan controls. i tried to change the climate control board. no luck. anyone have an idea what this could be or what i need to change? thanks for the help guys.
  • cary27519cary27519 Member Posts: 5
    I have 2003 Suburban with similar issue, my Mechanic just change Heater control valve (Actuator) and since then everything works great.
  • harryd007harryd007 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same issue with my 98 tahoe. I pulled the ac/heater control switch and the fan speed dial and the harness plug going to it was burned up. Replaced the switch with one I purchased from the junk yard for $30 (they cut the harness plug and gave it to me free) replaced them both and problem solved. I was told that this is a common problem for Chevy in that time period.
  • canuck21canuck21 Member Posts: 4
    When I turn the heat on, driver side blows cold air only. Passenger side is fine. Is this a door actuator problem and if so where how do I get at it to replace it ?

    Thanks, much appreciated.

    rt
  • domulatordomulator Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help guys! i changed the a/c heater control underneath the glove box. the board was burnt out. picked up a new one from the dealership and works like a champ! everything is working fine.
  • mp87inimp87ini Member Posts: 2
    technokoz said:

    We just recently purchase a used 03 Tahoe LS with the duel climate controls (not automatic). Right now the fan only works on 5. So its all or nothing. I took everything apart to check that the switch was working correctly.

    I'm guessing that there is a relay or module that actually controls the speeds of the fan.

    Anyone have any idea what and where this is?

    Try under the glove box and test the resistor in front of the blower motor. The resistor controls the fan speeds.
  • Clint48Clint48 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone. I have an 04 Suburban and the front vents no longer blow, however, the rear vents work great. I have a manual A/C system. Any help would be great. Thank you.
  • iowapinkiowapink Member Posts: 1
    arrie said:
    Hi there treedog, I had not heard back from anybody regarding the issue until today. I am visiting in Europe and have not been able to connect to internet. This is the country with Autobahns and it feels kind of good driving 140 MPH in a car that is made for driving fast...but that is another topic. If your A/C still blows cold I would let some more refrigerant out. You can do this until you see a drop in the A/C efficiency and then add some back until it works ok again. But before letting more out you might want to make sure you have enough oil in it as oil is lost when you let refrigerant out. There is another thing to consider too, which I am thinking to do myself to my own Tahoe...replace the expansion valve. Expansion valve can be a problem as it has a very fine mesh screen with it. Over time the compressor wears and all of the metal dust that it spits out is meant to be caught by this screen on the expansion valve. Well, if this screen gets plugged too much it starts to restrict coolant flow thru it and this could be causing some trouble. The job includes vacuuming the A/C system before re-charging it.Vacuuming is possible to perform at home too. I have done this in the past a couple of times and it works fine. For vacuuming the A/C system you need to purchase another charging hose and then cut off the end that screws to the refrigerant can. Then you find a vacuum connection in your car's intake manifold (there usually are plenty of those) and see what size hose you need to get to connect to one of these ports. Then you get a proper size hose and connect it to the charger hose end that you cut the refrigerator can connector off. Now you have tools to vacuum your A/C system before re-charge. You turn off the A/C system (it should not run without refrigeranr anyway but to make sure turn it off) and start car and run it on idle. When idling the engine generates very high vacuum inside the intake manifold. Some cars over 24". When you connect the hand made hose to the A/C system service port and then the other end to the intake manifold port you will vacuum the A/C system very well. You have it "vacuuming" 15 minutes and it is pretty empty. After about 15 minutes disconnect the hose from the service port before turning off the engine. Now you are ready to re-charge the A/C system. You will start with a can of oil charge. It will go inthe system without running the engine as the vacuum in the system will pull it in. Then you start with a can of refrigerant and when that stops going in you will need the help of the compressor, i.e. turn on the A/C system for max cooling. This probably will not start the compressor as the coolant level is still so low in the system. To make compressor run you need to short the two wires on the harness that connects to the pressure sensor that is mounted on the side of the dryer bottle. A new expansion valve is very low cost item. Last one I bought for my Dodge Ram tryck cost $6 or something like that. Expansion valve is located inside the tubing where there is a union on the line just before that dryer bottle. If you run the A/C before the job you can feel the line for temperature as before the expansion valve it is hot and after the valve it is cold. Arrie



    -----------I have some questions about the expansion valve can you message me back
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