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I was also having a problem: The buttons for the radio (just the ones around the navigation screen) have been flickering, but only after I am driving the car for a while. The could not replicate the problem and didn't see any obvious issue, so no repair was done.
BUT, they did do a PCM Flash, and the latest one indicated something like "LDP Sensor Erratic". I looked it up on Google and Rosenthal came up with a Service Bulletin. It says:
"Some vehicles may experience MIL comes on with DTC P2407 in memory. This symptom is due to abnormal current in the LDP sensor which exceeds the threshold of DTC P2407. The design specification does not meet the market need, so the PCM software has been changed to resolve the concern."
MIL means Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
LDP means Leak Diagnostic Pump.
The "abnormal current" part is what makes me hope the latest PCM Flash fixes the radio issue.
Check their website :Discount Tire , they may have a store in your area.
If not, I do as my parents have always done and continue to do; I take it to Sears!
BTW, tire rotation at Discount Tire is FREE! Balancing on the other hand is only 4.99 a tire, still not bad!
Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply.
If any do apply, follow Schedule 2 (Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2).
- Repeated short-distance driving
- Driving in dusty conditions
- Driving with extended use of brakes
- Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used
- Driving on rough or muddy roads
- Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
- Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates
Schedule 1 states oil change every 7,500 miles (12,000 kms)
Schedule 2 states oil change every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms)
Vince.
Vince.
Most of us do drive in stop and go conditions, and if that's the norm but too hard on the poor little ol' engine, Mazda and the rest of the manufacturers should change the normal service interval to reflect that.
Ok, let the brickbats fly. :shades:
-c92
If you really care, it makes more sense to spend the $15 or $20 on an oil analysis than just willy-nilly changing the oil on some interval other than what the owner's manual recommends.
There more fun in the big oil wars topic:
Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2
Vince.
Mind you, I'm not arguing to skimp on oil changes. I'll be doing mine at intervals between 3,000 and 5,000 miles. I do MOSTLY stop-and-go driving and I'd rather be conservative about it. But honestly, I'm not going to freak out if I don't make it down to the shop after 3,500 or 5,500 miles. The book clearly states you can go to 7,500... and that's true of a LOT of the newer foreign cars. No where in the manual does it say or even imply you need to do them more frequently than every 5,000 miles... and trust me, the dealerships want to squeak as much money out of you as they can, so if they say 5,000 miles for harsh conditions and 7,500 for typical, you can be sure that's what it is. LOL
The independent shop where I had the vehicle serviced (which specializes in Audi)recommends every 3~4,000 on the oil using regular oil and every 30~40,000 on the transmission.They are seeing Audi transmission failures at 60~70,000 on those that followed the factory and never changed the tranny fluid.
So maybe it is just the reverse that the manufacturer stipulated longer service intervals in order for the vehicle to wear out quicker? Who knows?
And THAT is considered harsh driving conditions, according to most auto manufacturers and thus, disqualifies schedule one maintenance.
Hey, I don't "toe-the-line" either. I change my oil every 5 - 6 K Miles and use Mobile One synthetic. Heck, I occasionally hit 8K miles between changes!
Vince
That being said, this suggestion about the manufacturer purposely trying to wear their cars out is SILLY. That would benefit NOBODY long-term - ask anyone who ever felt like they had a lemon and won't go back to that brand. Maybe you are in that boat with Audi?
For instance, there are a lot of resons I personally won't be looking at a Mexican-made VW ever again, but none of those have to do with if or how I followed their maintenance recommendations... I drove that car like a stuntman, and nothing within my control ever failed. All of the problems were recall-related, and not because of the fact that I "only" followed VW's normal maintenance program.
Cars ain't cheap and I'm overdue for belts and plugs.
Thank you for contacting Mazda.
Even though synthetic oil has been on the market for a while, Mazda
does not recommend its use in our vehicles because it has not been tested
in the long run on the Mazda engine. The recommendation for oil that is
listed in the Owners Manual is also what the Mazda engineers recommend.
Since our office is not technically trained, I would be unable to
advise you what could be damaged if synthetic oil is used. Using synthetic
does not mean something will become damaged, Mazda just can not
recommend it.
Again, thank you for contacting Mazda.
Regards,
Thom R.
Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business
The recommendation for oil in the Mazda manual (page 8-12 on the online copy) is for API certified 5W-30 oil. There is no mention of synthetic vs. non-synthetic at all - and obviously Mazda is not taking any liability by recommending either specifically. Mobil 1 and other synthetics meet these requirements handily, though you are not required to go synthetic.
-c92
I wouldn't expect any manufacturer (except those that equip their cars with synthetic) to specifically recommend synthetic oil.
That said, if it meets or exceeds API standards for your vehicle, you shouldn't encounter any problems with the exception of some seepage.
does not recommend its use in our vehicles because it has not been tested
in the long run on the Mazda engine" as Mazda saying NOT to use it, which is maybe what I did.
Either way, Mazda DOES indirectly recommend it, whether they admit it or not, because as I said, most (if not all) synthetic oils meet the API service level recommended in the manual. Look at it this way: the manual does not actually recommend "non-synthetic" oil, either. In the end, their corporate "hands-off" answer was not surprising, but fairly useless.
I was pleasantly surprised to feel the difference - that turbo lag is almost gone! WOW! Love it!
Vince.
Keep in mind that BMW has nothing to gain(except a few bucks on more frequent changes) and a whole lot to lose (resale problems, maintenance issues) if they understate how often one should be changing the oil.
Customers get really nervous when these indicators show that the oil should be changed in 12,000 to 15,000 miles.
They've lived their entire lives being told that they are helping their engines if they change the oil every 3K miles.
Such is the power of the media. Car dealers, oil change shops would lose a considerable amount of money if they weren't able to convince you to change your oil often.
There is no objectivity to be found unless you consult actual oil engineers who tell a story very similar to what the BMW computer monitors are telling. Out in the public, we have millions of people who will swear that changing their oil every 3K miles has resulted in nothing but good for their engine. This "feel good" kind of attitude is fine with me, but holds no objectivity in the real world.
Don't let the facts get in the way of how often you change your oil.......especially if it makes you "feel good".
Funny and I don't reccommend it, but I know a couple of people who don't change their oil. They just change filters and add some if and when needed. One of them got rid of his car after 150,000 miles and it was still runnning fine.
The other day while using the lock on the center console I went to unlock it and found I could not press the unlock button. By trial and error, it appears that you can turn the key to unlock it and remove the key but it is really not unlocked to till you turn the key enough till you feel and hear the lock click. While I think this is normal, I was wondering if someone can check theirs to see if the function is the same or I will have the look at it.
-c92
LOL
The key doesn't go in very far so it probably uses so few tumblers that I could open it with a paper clip. If someone really wanted to open it they could probably just rip open the lid. LOL
I realize it's not meant to be real secure but it isother area they skimped on, but I don't think many will care. They could have splurged a little and also put a lock on the glove box.
Vince.
Yeah, but who has time to hide in the bushes with a crowbar waiting for the thief to show up? :P
They show up quicker if you bait them by leaving the car door open and some dollar bills laying on the ground. :sick:
The question is how long does this operation take.
Is it a 15 minute operation, 1/2 hour or an hour or more.
I have to portion my time for the next few days and need to know the answer. :confuse:
Many thanks,
Darth Vader Grey etc.etc....
I read about oil types and frequency of changes. I have always used Dino Oil and this will be my first time using the Synthetics. My dealer recommened Semi-Syn by Quaker State. I've always used Vavoline and will use full syn becuase of what I have read on other car sites. I've always figured getting multiple resources for information is a win win situation so I've done some investigating, because I don't know about all this stuff.
I've included some links.
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/synthetic_vs_conventional_oil/
http://www.firstfives.org/faq/oil/oilartcl.html
This last link seems very realiable.
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/AutoIndustry'sBestKeptSecret.htm
By the way, thanks for the info on the self-change. I have always changed my own oil (every 2500 miles) and I have owned 3 new vehicles, one Mazda Protege. Never once did I ever have any engine problems. For changing my own oil, I've always had a pick-up truck, exception the Protege, and could fit under them quite easily. I cannot even begin to fit under the CX7, so I'll either have to invest in ramps or jack stands and a jack to get under it. I think I'll go with the dealer on the first oil change. Then I'll determine what hassle it is and if the cost of extra equipment is worth it.
I plan on keeping the CX7 for at least 6 years so my frequency will go to 4000 miles between changes. That seems to be the medium range from the frequency I used with Dino oil and going to syn oil for the first time. Of course if I change my own oil I will be able to inspect the oil and filter and decide if I can go longer than 4000 miles.
Bottom line, I don't want engine problems, under warranty or not. A few bucks a year for piece of mind is worth it to me.
I also found a CX 7 forum here http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=21
I look forward to coming back for more input and to add more comments as I drive my CX 7 and deal with the dealer more.
Thank you all,
Roy
Roy
Personally, I don't have the patience to change my own oil and I live in a condo complex, where car maintenance isn't allowed.
So I just use the local Mazda dealership. No muss, no fuss. I don't have to dirty my hands, don't have to spend time on something I don't like, and I don't have to worry about cleanup or disposal of old oil. I simply ask the Mazda guys put in Mobil 1 and I'm out of there in an hours time. Sit n' chat with other patrons and drink my coffee. Watch TV in the lounge. :P
Vince.
I took 35 quarts (almost nine GALLONS :surprise: ) of used oil to Wal-Mart the other day... My significant other had been getting on me about how cluttered the garage was. Apparently, I'd been saving the stuff up until I had "a convenient moment."
There are 2 recall notices, but I think they have been addressed here and will be performed when you do bring in the 7 for service at the dealer.
Edmunds.com Not sure if this link will open automatically. If not you may have to go through the steps of selecting your vehcile model, type, etc.
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.do?step=tsb&year=2007&make=Mazda&mo- del=CX-7&style=Grand+Touring+4dr+SUV+%282.3L+4cyl+Turbo+6A%29&zip=76039&synpartn- er=edmunds
These are the recall bulletins:
Component Description:
1. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE Bulletin Number: 0105306 Bulletin Date: DEC 2006
Vehicle: 2007 Mazda CX-7
Summary: LACK OF POWER OR HESITATION ON ACCELERATION UNDER 2,000 RPM. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10020805 )
Component Description:
2. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Bulletin Number: 0102006
Bulletin Date: SEP 2006
Vehicle: 2007 Mazda CX-7
Summary: MIL ILLUMINATION WITH DTC P0463 OR DTC B1202 WITH NO ILLUMINATION. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10020527 )
I've also noticed that when I do a hard brake the steering wheel shakes really, really bad. I was told ABS does this, but I don't think it should be as severe as what I am experiencing. I'll have the dealer look into this during my service this weekend.
I am fortunate that my dealer is open on Saturdays and also gives out a free loaner car, another 7, if they need to keep it overnight. Freeman Mazda in Irving, TX. Anyone living in this area may want to try them out, since you can bring your 7 to any dealership. They are great.
I've also noticed when I was cleaning the top portion of the windows, all of them front and rear, driver and passenger sides, that they wobble and feel as though you can pull them out of the track. I've owned a Mazda before and I am a bit disappointed in this design.
We'll talk to you all later.
Roy