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Mazda CX-7 Maintenance

24

Comments

  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    Many of the fast lube places don't have hoists. They use "pits" from down below to do the oil change. If the places you went to did have a hoist, and they couldn't put a Lexus 300 up, did a big favor by turning you away. If you don't know a good local shop, use referrals to get established with one. Bringing your vehicle to the same place for service on a regular basis works out the best.
  • astegmanastegman Member Posts: 171
    No, I definitely do not know any local mechanics. My husband belongs to Angie's List, so perhaps that would be a good way to get reliable referrals. There used to be one local guy in our town who did oil changes and the like, but (1) he did some major damage to my husband's car as the result of a routine oil change, and (2) he ultimately closed down. So, I'll have to do some detective work. I'd love to find one place that can get to know the CX-7 who isn't a dealer.
  • cxrabbitcxrabbit Member Posts: 134
    Just had my 1,000 Mile oil change today. They checked all fluids and changed my oil.

    I was also having a problem: The buttons for the radio (just the ones around the navigation screen) have been flickering, but only after I am driving the car for a while. The could not replicate the problem and didn't see any obvious issue, so no repair was done.

    BUT, they did do a PCM Flash, and the latest one indicated something like "LDP Sensor Erratic". I looked it up on Google and Rosenthal came up with a Service Bulletin. It says:

    "Some vehicles may experience MIL comes on with DTC P2407 in memory. This symptom is due to abnormal current in the LDP sensor which exceeds the threshold of DTC P2407. The design specification does not meet the market need, so the PCM software has been changed to resolve the concern."

    MIL means Malfunction Indicator Lamp.
    LDP means Leak Diagnostic Pump.

    The "abnormal current" part is what makes me hope the latest PCM Flash fixes the radio issue.
  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    Obviously, even the local independent can mess your car, as well as the "fast lube" franchise. With some research, you should be able to find a non-dealer alternative that does quality work at a lower, but not lowest price. I have spent my whole adult life looking for the right person to do a specific job, and it isn't easy. When you do find that shop, stick with them on the small stuff as well as the larger repairs.
  • wjbushsrwjbushsr Member Posts: 135
    My experience has been great with Discount Tires here in Houston and South Texas- Louisiana for rotation and balancing of my tires with lifetime roadhazard and no pro-rating on the damaged tire.
    Check their website :Discount Tire , they may have a store in your area.
    If not, I do as my parents have always done and continue to do; I take it to Sears!
    BTW, tire rotation at Discount Tire is FREE! Balancing on the other hand is only 4.99 a tire, still not bad! ;)
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,253
    while your vehicle is under warranty, having a complete 'paper trail' cannot be a bad thing.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    I have learned the critical importance of keeping receipts, in and out of warranty. Anything related to the vehicle, (except fuel receipts) is filed in a 3 ring binder.
  • astegmanastegman Member Posts: 171
    I just had the 7500 mile servicing done today, which, of course, included an oil change. I noticed that the little reminder sticker they put on the windshield indicated I should have the oil changed again in 3 mos/3000 miles. Hmmm. I thought that this car didn't need such frequent oil changes. Not that it would be bad, by any means, to do it more frequently, but it's obviously more costly and for me personally, much more inconvenient since my service dept. is not open weekends (and I'd rather not go elsewhere for oil changes). Once again, no definitive answer to the age old question of how often to get the oil changed! Ask 10 people and you'll get 10 different answers! ;)
  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    The Mazda manual states 7500 mile oil changes under normal conditions. Normal conditions are 72 F ambient outside temp on a sunny perfect day with no short tripping the vehicle. Otherwise 3750 miles under otherwise not perfect conditions sounds like a good compromise. Technically, the engine oil should be changed BEFORE it gets dirty. $35.00 every 3000 miles or so is not a bad investment in a $28,000+ vehicle to help increase engine longevity.
  • cxrabbitcxrabbit Member Posts: 134
    From the Manual:

    Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply.
    If any do apply, follow Schedule 2 (Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2).

    - Repeated short-distance driving
    - Driving in dusty conditions
    - Driving with extended use of brakes
    - Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used
    - Driving on rough or muddy roads
    - Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
    - Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates

    Schedule 1 states oil change every 7,500 miles (12,000 kms)
    Schedule 2 states oil change every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms)
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Member Posts: 498
    Unless you're a little Granny living in Palm Springs, drive a CX-7 to the neighborhood grocery once a day, and keep the CX-7 parked in a garage, the vast majority of us fall under Schedule 2. :D

    Vince.
  • cxrabbitcxrabbit Member Posts: 134
    Not really true. My brother-in-law commute 90 minutes into the city each day and it's ALL highway. Spring, Summer and Fall he would definitely fall into Schedule 1. Anyone who does mostly highway driving and isn't in extreme climates is going to fall into Schedule 1.
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Member Posts: 498
    I said the "vast majority". Most Americans live in urban environments/cities, where commuting is a fact of life - stop and go driving. Taking kids to school, going to soccer matches, going to the movies, shopping, etc. Your brother-in-law is an exception. Additionally, most of US falls under "extreme climates".

    Vince.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Can't say that I agree Vince - unless I turn my wagon into a taxi or start doing a bunch of towing or idling, I'm going to stick with the longer fluid interval changes.

    Most of us do drive in stop and go conditions, and if that's the norm but too hard on the poor little ol' engine, Mazda and the rest of the manufacturers should change the normal service interval to reflect that.

    Ok, let the brickbats fly. :shades:
  • carlitos92carlitos92 Member Posts: 458
    Agreed. I vote with Steve and say "schedule 1," although I'm using Mobil 1 "digital dinosaurs" because it's a turbo.

    -c92
  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    Oil changes are the least expensive , most effective way to help prolong engine life. The Cx-7 uses the "cartridge system" instead of the spin on conventional oil filter. I have seen that filter and it is SMALL! Changing every 3750 miles makes sense, especially for those of us that live in temperature extreme areas. (Like Mn.winters/summers)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It may be small but what's the filter media and how many pleats does it have? I don't have a clue, but there's more to engineering than making something "big." I prefer not to waste time and money dumping good oil back into the waste stream.

    If you really care, it makes more sense to spend the $15 or $20 on an oil analysis than just willy-nilly changing the oil on some interval other than what the owner's manual recommends.

    There more fun in the big oil wars topic:

    Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Member Posts: 498
    Steve, not a problem. I'm only going by the strict definition in the Mazda manual. If someone were going to have warranty repairs and Mazda wanted to deny benefits, it'd be up to the consumer to prove they were in compliance with the manual.

    Vince.
  • cxrabbitcxrabbit Member Posts: 134
    You're going by your intepretation of what the manual says. I take it to means that schedule 2 applies to peole who drive the car is pretty harsh conditions and drive it pretty hard. The AVERAGE person does a mixture of highway and city driving and isn't in extremely cold climates other than a few months a year.

    Mind you, I'm not arguing to skimp on oil changes. I'll be doing mine at intervals between 3,000 and 5,000 miles. I do MOSTLY stop-and-go driving and I'd rather be conservative about it. But honestly, I'm not going to freak out if I don't make it down to the shop after 3,500 or 5,500 miles. The book clearly states you can go to 7,500... and that's true of a LOT of the newer foreign cars. No where in the manual does it say or even imply you need to do them more frequently than every 5,000 miles... and trust me, the dealerships want to squeak as much money out of you as they can, so if they say 5,000 miles for harsh conditions and 7,500 for typical, you can be sure that's what it is. LOL
  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    I used to drive an Audi A6 twin turbo and Audi said change the oil every 8,000 miles and NEVER change the transmission fluid, it is good for the life of the vehicle!

    The independent shop where I had the vehicle serviced (which specializes in Audi)recommends every 3~4,000 on the oil using regular oil and every 30~40,000 on the transmission.They are seeing Audi transmission failures at 60~70,000 on those that followed the factory and never changed the tranny fluid.

    So maybe it is just the reverse that the manufacturer stipulated longer service intervals in order for the vehicle to wear out quicker? Who knows?
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Member Posts: 498
    "The AVERAGE person does a mixture of highway and city driving and isn't in extremely cold climates other than a few months a year."

    And THAT is considered harsh driving conditions, according to most auto manufacturers and thus, disqualifies schedule one maintenance.

    Hey, I don't "toe-the-line" either. I change my oil every 5 - 6 K Miles and use Mobile One synthetic. Heck, I occasionally hit 8K miles between changes!

    Vince
  • carlitos92carlitos92 Member Posts: 458
    We've had all this discussion before and figured out that you weren't gonna convince everybody, and no one was gonna convince you. So to each his own. Maybe you were the guy I offered to buy dinner for after 10 years of our respective maintenance habits? :D

    That being said, this suggestion about the manufacturer purposely trying to wear their cars out is SILLY. That would benefit NOBODY long-term - ask anyone who ever felt like they had a lemon and won't go back to that brand. Maybe you are in that boat with Audi?

    For instance, there are a lot of resons I personally won't be looking at a Mexican-made VW ever again, but none of those have to do with if or how I followed their maintenance recommendations... I drove that car like a stuntman, and nothing within my control ever failed. All of the problems were recall-related, and not because of the fact that I "only" followed VW's normal maintenance program.
  • fonefixerfonefixer Member Posts: 247
    Yes, it was me who you offered the 10 year maintenance "test." I have driven Audis for 8 service intensive years and this brand nearly bankrupted me.Strictly a lease vehicle! Where do I find a car that go 100,000 miles with just oil changes, brakes and tires, (and maybe a few light bulbs)?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Not my '99 Quest; in addition to the usual items in your list I had to spring $170 for a new cv joint/axle. And I'm on my second battery. 115,000 miles. All that "normal" maintenance and repair has cost me $2,500+ to date. Over $1,000 of that was just for tires and flats.

    Cars ain't cheap and I'm overdue for belts and plugs. :cry:
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    I don't have a spare cartridge to count the number of pleats, nor does the dealer know what the filter media specs are (I asked), but one mechanic informed me that the cartridge system (which has been around for years) is superior to the spin on because there is less chance of clogging and it does a better job of filtering the oil.
  • kylelekylele Member Posts: 2
    Hello Kyle ,

    Thank you for contacting Mazda.

    Even though synthetic oil has been on the market for a while, Mazda
    does not recommend its use in our vehicles because it has not been tested
    in the long run on the Mazda engine. The recommendation for oil that is
    listed in the Owners Manual is also what the Mazda engineers recommend.
    Since our office is not technically trained, I would be unable to
    advise you what could be damaged if synthetic oil is used. Using synthetic
    does not mean something will become damaged, Mazda just can not
    recommend it.

    Again, thank you for contacting Mazda.

    Regards,

    Thom R.
    Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business
  • carlitos92carlitos92 Member Posts: 458
    "Thom R." is full of bunk, but at least he's right about his office not being technically trained...

    The recommendation for oil in the Mazda manual (page 8-12 on the online copy) is for API certified 5W-30 oil. There is no mention of synthetic vs. non-synthetic at all - and obviously Mazda is not taking any liability by recommending either specifically. Mobil 1 and other synthetics meet these requirements handily, though you are not required to go synthetic.

    -c92
  • pctechpctech Member Posts: 43
    Er, Subaru? :P
  • sssfegysssfegy Member Posts: 132
    Hahaha..had one of them Legay's, at 60K my engine and diff. were leaking and was told it's very common..that's back in 2000,went for Audi! Since they'll break I might as well dump the ugly car. I know they are much more complicated now.
  • pctechpctech Member Posts: 43
    My last car was a '99 Forester. Had 120,000+ miles when I sold it (fell in love with the CX-7). Never had any problems and stuck with the 7500-mile intervals, plus performed all recommended maintenance at the proper times. Sure hope the CX-7 serves me just as well!
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    why is he full of bunk? He just said they have not done long term testing for it.

    I wouldn't expect any manufacturer (except those that equip their cars with synthetic) to specifically recommend synthetic oil.

    That said, if it meets or exceeds API standards for your vehicle, you shouldn't encounter any problems with the exception of some seepage.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    and BTW, I really, really hate the lame form letters that companies reply with when you send an inquiry. I really get the idea that they are simply discouraging the use of written communication.
  • carlitos92carlitos92 Member Posts: 458
    One could read the sentence "Even though synthetic oil has been on the market for a while, Mazda
    does not recommend its use in our vehicles because it has not been tested
    in the long run on the Mazda engine" as Mazda saying NOT to use it, which is maybe what I did.

    Either way, Mazda DOES indirectly recommend it, whether they admit it or not, because as I said, most (if not all) synthetic oils meet the API service level recommended in the manual. Look at it this way: the manual does not actually recommend "non-synthetic" oil, either. In the end, their corporate "hands-off" answer was not surprising, but fairly useless.
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Member Posts: 498
    Took my buggy in for the 15,000 mile maintenance and had the dealer update the PCM in response to Service Bulletin 01-053/06 "Lack of power or hesitation on acceleration under 2,000 RPM".

    I was pleasantly surprised to feel the difference - that turbo lag is almost gone! WOW! Love it!

    Vince.
  • bmenkbmenk Member Posts: 3
    These days BMW's have monitors that tell you how dirty the oil is and filter. When the monitor indicates a change should happen, it will tell you. It also will indicate projections on how long you still have to go before a change is indicated.

    Keep in mind that BMW has nothing to gain(except a few bucks on more frequent changes) and a whole lot to lose (resale problems, maintenance issues) if they understate how often one should be changing the oil.

    Customers get really nervous when these indicators show that the oil should be changed in 12,000 to 15,000 miles.
    They've lived their entire lives being told that they are helping their engines if they change the oil every 3K miles.

    Such is the power of the media. Car dealers, oil change shops would lose a considerable amount of money if they weren't able to convince you to change your oil often.

    There is no objectivity to be found unless you consult actual oil engineers who tell a story very similar to what the BMW computer monitors are telling. Out in the public, we have millions of people who will swear that changing their oil every 3K miles has resulted in nothing but good for their engine. This "feel good" kind of attitude is fine with me, but holds no objectivity in the real world.

    Don't let the facts get in the way of how often you change your oil.......especially if it makes you "feel good".
  • defreitasmdefreitasm Member Posts: 152
    "There is no objectivity to be found unless you consult actual oil engineers who tell a story very similar to what the BMW computer monitors are telling. Out in the public, we have millions of people who will swear that changing their oil every 3K miles has resulted in nothing but good for their engine. This "feel good" kind of attitude is fine with me, but holds no objectivity in the real world."

    Funny and I don't reccommend it, but I know a couple of people who don't change their oil. They just change filters and add some if and when needed. One of them got rid of his car after 150,000 miles and it was still runnning fine.
  • defreitasmdefreitasm Member Posts: 152
    I'm about to bring my CX7 in for the first service and will have them address a few concerns like the CEL and PCM update.

    The other day while using the lock on the center console I went to unlock it and found I could not press the unlock button. By trial and error, it appears that you can turn the key to unlock it and remove the key but it is really not unlocked to till you turn the key enough till you feel and hear the lock click. While I think this is normal, I was wondering if someone can check theirs to see if the function is the same or I will have the look at it.
  • carlitos92carlitos92 Member Posts: 458
    I'll try it. I'd be surprised if it's really even worthy of being called a "lock," though. Feels pretty flimsy to me. I wouldn't put the crown jewels in there or anything, thats for sure...,
  • carlitos92carlitos92 Member Posts: 458
    It has to click. Tried it both ways. You can turn the key 85 degrees and pull it out, but if there's no click, it ain't locked, or vice versa.

    -c92
  • defreitasmdefreitasm Member Posts: 152
    I just need it to hide my stash so my 22 year old can't get at it. :surprise:

    LOL

    The key doesn't go in very far so it probably uses so few tumblers that I could open it with a paper clip. If someone really wanted to open it they could probably just rip open the lid. LOL

    I realize it's not meant to be real secure but it isother area they skimped on, but I don't think many will care. They could have splurged a little and also put a lock on the glove box.
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Member Posts: 498
    In the over-all scheme of things, locking gloveboxs and storage compartments are of little value. If a thief is determined to break into your car and bypass the alarm system, a flimsy little lock on storage compartments isn't going to deter them. A crow bar works quite well.

    Vince.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    A crow bar works quite well.

    Yeah, but who has time to hide in the bushes with a crowbar waiting for the thief to show up? :P
  • defreitasmdefreitasm Member Posts: 152
    "Yeah, but who has time to hide in the bushes with a crowbar waiting for the thief to show up?"

    They show up quicker if you bait them by leaving the car door open and some dollar bills laying on the ground. :sick:
  • nmknmk Member Posts: 111
    I am thinking of bringing in my CX-7 for an update.
    The question is how long does this operation take.
    Is it a 15 minute operation, 1/2 hour or an hour or more.
    I have to portion my time for the next few days and need to know the answer. :confuse:

    Many thanks,

    Darth Vader Grey etc.etc....
  • wjbushsrwjbushsr Member Posts: 135
    Just had my 7 in for the updates for the PCI and the transmission upgrade for the jerking { which it stopped doing on it's own} and the whole thing took roughly 30 minutes with the oil change! :shades:
  • docwatsondocwatson Member Posts: 8
    Hello to all. I've read this entire forum from the beginning. I just purchased my CX7 on 3/5/07. I have the FWD Grand Touring. I love this CUV. CUV = Crossover Utility Vehicle, which I think is the offical term for this type of SUV/Truck/Car.

    I read about oil types and frequency of changes. I have always used Dino Oil and this will be my first time using the Synthetics. My dealer recommened Semi-Syn by Quaker State. I've always used Vavoline and will use full syn becuase of what I have read on other car sites. I've always figured getting multiple resources for information is a win win situation so I've done some investigating, because I don't know about all this stuff.

    I've included some links.

    http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

    http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/synthetic_vs_conventional_oil/

    http://www.firstfives.org/faq/oil/oilartcl.html

    This last link seems very realiable. :)

    http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/AutoIndustry'sBestKeptSecret.htm

    By the way, thanks for the info on the self-change. I have always changed my own oil (every 2500 miles) and I have owned 3 new vehicles, one Mazda Protege. Never once did I ever have any engine problems. For changing my own oil, I've always had a pick-up truck, exception the Protege, and could fit under them quite easily. I cannot even begin to fit under the CX7, so I'll either have to invest in ramps or jack stands and a jack to get under it. I think I'll go with the dealer on the first oil change. Then I'll determine what hassle it is and if the cost of extra equipment is worth it.

    I plan on keeping the CX7 for at least 6 years so my frequency will go to 4000 miles between changes. That seems to be the medium range from the frequency I used with Dino oil and going to syn oil for the first time. Of course if I change my own oil I will be able to inspect the oil and filter and decide if I can go longer than 4000 miles.

    Bottom line, I don't want engine problems, under warranty or not. A few bucks a year for piece of mind is worth it to me.

    I also found a CX 7 forum here http://www.mcx7.com/showthread.php?t=21

    I look forward to coming back for more input and to add more comments as I drive my CX 7 and deal with the dealer more.

    Thank you all,

    Roy
  • docwatsondocwatson Member Posts: 8
    My apologies for the last Website I recommened. After reading more I realized it is a website to promote a brand of synthetic oil. I am not promoting that brand, however, after reading more about their product and guarantee I may just invest in this brand for all my lube requirements.

    Roy
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Member Posts: 498
    Sounds like you're on the right track. Wanted to compliment you on your research efforts!

    Personally, I don't have the patience to change my own oil and I live in a condo complex, where car maintenance isn't allowed.

    So I just use the local Mazda dealership. No muss, no fuss. I don't have to dirty my hands, don't have to spend time on something I don't like, and I don't have to worry about cleanup or disposal of old oil. I simply ask the Mazda guys put in Mobil 1 and I'm out of there in an hours time. Sit n' chat with other patrons and drink my coffee. Watch TV in the lounge. :P

    Vince.
  • carlitos92carlitos92 Member Posts: 458
    Re: disposal of old oil -
    I took 35 quarts (almost nine GALLONS :surprise: ) of used oil to Wal-Mart the other day... My significant other had been getting on me about how cluttered the garage was. Apparently, I'd been saving the stuff up until I had "a convenient moment." ;)
  • docwatsondocwatson Member Posts: 8
    I read some folks input here. I have noticed that my vents blow hot air with the AC or Heater off. The air just comes out. I don't like that so I just close all the vents. But what worries me is if that hot air comes out, does it mix with the AC when the AC is on. I'll ask this weekend when I bring in the 7 for a 2 week check up.

    There are 2 recall notices, but I think they have been addressed here and will be performed when you do bring in the 7 for service at the dealer.

    Edmunds.com Not sure if this link will open automatically. If not you may have to go through the steps of selecting your vehcile model, type, etc.
    http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.do?step=tsb&year=2007&make=Mazda&mo- del=CX-7&style=Grand+Touring+4dr+SUV+%282.3L+4cyl+Turbo+6A%29&zip=76039&synpartn- er=edmunds

    These are the recall bulletins:
    Component Description:
    1. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE Bulletin Number: 0105306 Bulletin Date: DEC 2006

    Vehicle: 2007 Mazda CX-7
    Summary: LACK OF POWER OR HESITATION ON ACCELERATION UNDER 2,000 RPM. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10020805 )



    Component Description:
    2. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Bulletin Number: 0102006
    Bulletin Date: SEP 2006

    Vehicle: 2007 Mazda CX-7
    Summary: MIL ILLUMINATION WITH DTC P0463 OR DTC B1202 WITH NO ILLUMINATION. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10020527 )

    I've also noticed that when I do a hard brake the steering wheel shakes really, really bad. I was told ABS does this, but I don't think it should be as severe as what I am experiencing. I'll have the dealer look into this during my service this weekend.

    I am fortunate that my dealer is open on Saturdays and also gives out a free loaner car, another 7, if they need to keep it overnight. Freeman Mazda in Irving, TX. Anyone living in this area may want to try them out, since you can bring your 7 to any dealership. They are great.

    I've also noticed when I was cleaning the top portion of the windows, all of them front and rear, driver and passenger sides, that they wobble and feel as though you can pull them out of the track. I've owned a Mazda before and I am a bit disappointed in this design.

    We'll talk to you all later.

    Roy
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