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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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  • beth4045beth4045 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Ford Explorer. I thought the tranmission went out, it was making a sound and acting like in neutral when in gear. We did a tear down on the transmission and it looked good. After putting it back together it ran fine for a while then the fuse (#27) keep blowing which runs the 4x4 and inter. lamps amd windows. Once the weather turned cold the transmission started doing that again. I had someone that wasn't a mechanic tell me they thought electrical problems not transmission. What do you think?
  • sdmlsdml Member Posts: 3
    i had this same problem last week. look inside your car in the very back over the right rear wheel well. you have to take the plastic off inside your car to access the amp in the wheel well. this is where i found mine after a 3 week long search. you can disconnet the amp and splice into the speaker wires. or you can get another wire harness so that your pre-amp will hook up to your new stereo. i dont know about your blown fuse though. but you should check to make sure that you did not disconnect any other wires while changing the fuse or cut any. good luck.
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Member Posts: 1
    my 98 ford explorer runs fine but now my parking lights wont shut off and my 4x4 indercater lights go on & off and my windos stop working any one know what i should look for ck most of my elc.
  • josepi42josepi42 Member Posts: 1
    Fizwiz,Any luck with your inquiry? DId anybody post a response. I have similar issues with my 02 XLT. Thanks.
  • andy_andy_ Member Posts: 3
    my 1999 explorer has no indicators and no aircon working its not the fuse cause i had r.a.c.v come and look at it. any ideas?
  • andy_andy_ Member Posts: 3
    sounds weird man i just got a 99 limited model for my pregnant chick and the indicators dont work same as the aircon and i got total care from racv they came to look at it could'nt work it out, i thought it was a fuse but its not.
  • thunderbolt51thunderbolt51 Member Posts: 1
    The power windows do not work at all. Also, after getting and starting the car the "door ajar" light stays on even with all doors shut, the power mirror control will not work, the interior light stays on, and the door locking mechanism on the driver seat side does not work. After driving forward for about 100 feet, the mirrors and door lock mechanism will work, the interior light and "door ajar" indicator lights will go out. The power windows will not work in any circumstance. Any suggestions? Is there an interlock that needs to be checked/replaced? Ford Explorer 2003.
  • mario454mario454 Member Posts: 1
    my running lights stay on even after ignition is off, replaced the switch,did not do anything, where are the sensors do i need to replace them? :confuse:98 ford explorer
  • jtviscontijtvisconti Member Posts: 1
    I realize there is a delay switch with the keyless entry, but the illumination light on the driver side rear view mirror will not illuminate unless the driver side door is half way open. They are on a delay circuit for the security. The passenger side illumination light comes on, but stays on entirely too long, and gets hot. What is wrong?
  • dchamberlaindchamberlain Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I own a 98 Explorer, 4.0 litre, and its doing the exact same thing, 4WD high and low lights flash six times every few minutes and the power windows work periodically. Everything works fine on startup. I am able to engage both high and low 4WD and the windows work fine, however, after a few minutes, the lights start to blink and 4WD will not work, high or low.
    I suspect a relay module under the dash maybe? I see that the interior fuse #26 protects the Battery Saver Relay, Electronic Shift Relay, Interior Lamp Relay, Power Window Relay, and Electronic Shift Control Module. Hmmmm...

    Did you solve?
  • jonesdorijonesdori Member Posts: 2
    I can't find the passenger compartment fuse panel. The rear wiper motor quit working. The manual says it's under the drivers side gauge panel. Does anyone know, I feel like an idiot.
  • cruachancruachan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Exploer Eddie Bauer 4.0. The daytime running lights flash intermittently. It is happening more often. Any ideas?
  • mlsimonmlsimon Member Posts: 2
    I felt like an idiot too. I just purchased my 06 Explorer and looked for the panel 3 times before I finally found it. Look up under the dash of the driver's side and it is closer to the door. The fuse panel cover is about 2" x 5". It is very hard to spot, but once you see it, you won't believe you missed it. Hey, do you know if I can use my cigar lighter as a power port? The manual says that it is only to be used as a lighter.
  • jonesdorijonesdori Member Posts: 2
    Hi, Thanks to your help I found it, it was a bit obscured because I have my trailer electric brakes in that area. I'm getting too old to bend like that. As to the power ports, I use both of my ports to charge my cell phones and I have no problems. Again, thanks for your response. Dick Jones
  • mlsimonmlsimon Member Posts: 2
    Glad I could help. I don't think anyone should have to bend like that. I must have a blown fuse in my fuse panel under the hood if my front port isn't working. Glad to hear that you use them both.
  • tommyr2tommyr2 Member Posts: 1
    i recently purchased a 96 ford explorer and when i first got it the windows would roll down with the key on. but after i start the vehicle the windows dont work. now they only work sometimes. only when to engine is not running as soon as i start it they dont do anything. ive checked fuses and circuts,relays. any ideas
  • bucanolebucanole Member Posts: 18
    Thunderbolt have you by any chance found the answer or a solution to your problem? I have the same one in regards to the window and door ajar light. The door ajar problem I am hoping will be fixed by sparying WD40 on the swing bar (TBD). The windows I fear are from a dead motor and if so I know that's a pricy fix.

    Is anyone using aftermarket motors on their windows, mine have failed on my 03 EB V6 at least twice each while under warranty (expired now)?
  • wolfmann2008wolfmann2008 Member Posts: 1
    On my wifes 2004 explorer both the driver side and the passenger driver side windows do not work. First the passenger window quit now her driver side window quit. I would say it is the switch but any help would be great. Also how do you get in to the door panel to check or even exchange the switch if I can pick it up at the auto store.
    :surprise:
  • peezalpeezal Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2002 ford explorer, made the last payment in April, and in May a problem began. When I start the car, the day lights blink on and off like a police car. If I turn on the headlights, the blinking stops. It's kinda funny how many people pull over for me, but I would like to fix the problem. This has been happening for a few weeks now, and I have a feeling that the dash lights are going to go soon..
    Anyone have any Ideas? thanks
  • peezalpeezal Member Posts: 2
    did you get a resolve to this problem. I have the same issue with my ford explorer.
    Thanks
  • tangled911tangled911 Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem I replaced the daytime running lights module also check for broken wires at module. On a 95 explorer it is located on the drivers side rad support access is from underneath it`s a rectangular box.
  • blastfazorblastfazor Member Posts: 1
    all my fuses are good one day i put the battery in wrong and there wnt my raido and inside lights any know how to solve this problem everything else works is the raido connected to the same source as the inside light ? i liked to know whatwire it is so i can fix it any know
  • gradwjtgradwjt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Ford explorer XLT that started having some electrical problems about the same time. The headlights do not come on automatically but work from switch (Ford dealer said the sensor was working and was sending signal to turn lights on). The map lights work when the ignition is off but not from switch when ignition is on. They work from the dimmer though. The door locks will not unlock from either door switch, but will from key fob. They will not lock from key fob, but will operate from door switch. However, when I press lock twice on the key fob the horn will sound even though the doors do not lock.
  • jem1947jem1947 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem. First the passenger door locks quit working from the fob and the door panel . I can unlock with the key. Now the drivers side stopped working and will not open with key. It will go down from the door panel but not open. Have to reach acrss from passenger side and pull the door hanle. Any one have any ideas? :(
  • oscar50oscar50 Member Posts: 5
    tommyr2 did you ever get it fixws I HAVE SAME PROBLEM MY EMAIL IS
    96 Explorer with pwr only operate with ignition on engine off
    sethar@live.com thanks
  • oscar50oscar50 Member Posts: 5
    My 96 ford explorer suddenly developed a problem with the power windows not working when the engine is running. With engine off and ignition on, the windows
    work. I tried replacing the Accy delay relay with no sucess any suggestions thanks
  • oscar50oscar50 Member Posts: 5
    FYI I went to junk yard and found a 96 with the same features.....swapp :D ed out the GEM and now I'm cruising down route 66 . Thanks for sites like this ....knowledge is Power
  • lemon123456789lemon123456789 Member Posts: 1
    I have '98 Explore. I have no brake lights or turn signals. The fuses and lamos are good. Is there a common point where these two come together? I do not have any schematics.
  • bbelascobbelasco Member Posts: 12
    98 exp xlt door lock switch will not lock, just open both pass and driver side. Switch in hatch locks and opens

    When I bought the car used, the remote would open but not lock the doors. The alarm system thinks it is locked because you could arm it just by pressing the lock button. I would lock the doors by pressing the switch on either door. Recently, both switches will now only open, they will not lock, but the switch in the hatch still locks and opens the doors. The touch pad on the drives door also will open just the drivers door as it should, and all the doors when 3/4 is pressed. It cannot be used to lock the car, but will activate the alarm if you enter the code and it thinks you are locking it. I changed all 4 relays in the back, no help. All fuses are ok.

    I checked for a broken wire could not find one.
  • camandlissacamandlissa Member Posts: 6
    We bought an explorer used and didn't realize that a lot of the fuses were missing. We put them all in and the one for the overdrive and the rear defrost keeps blowing. We even tried to put one in that was stronger. We have had the vehicle for about a month now and went outside last night to hear a noise. the light was on in the vehicle and the power locks were unlocking and locking over and over again. We ended up unplugging the battery becuase we could get it to stop... WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE?? Please help! :(
  • oscar50oscar50 Member Posts: 5
    I am not sure what your problem is but I had similar problems when I noticed my Power windows stopped working . The back window wiper stopped and the dome lights. At one point their engine started miss firing and stopped. I tried replacing a bunch of relays that the guys on this web spoke of' the accy delay relay etc . Finally I went to what is described as the GEM it is a circuit board in a little box which is mounted on my explorer(1996 ) to the left of the radio. It is about six inches by 4 inches and is mounted vertically . You have to pull out the radio and fan control . It comes out pretty easily after you take out the two screws below the radio. This module is a brain that controls a lot of stuff. I found a similar explorer at my local junk yard and bought it at a reasonalbe price. I put it in and all my problems went away.
  • camandlissacamandlissa Member Posts: 6
    Thank you so much... i just took it to a shop to diagnose and they charged me 250.00 and didn;t tell us a thing... ugh starting to hate cars! :mad:
  • oscar50oscar50 Member Posts: 5
    Well look at it this way it could have been worse , hopefully you are set to go for awhile . Sounds like you have a pretty good shop to go to. That sounds like a reasonable price. I live in PA near allentown and find it very diffulcult to find a
    honest mechanic.
  • awfaganawfagan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 model. Having increasingly serious electrical issues. For no reason instrument lights go on an off, windows work sometimes and sometimes not, and the remote alarm will go off with no warning. Yesterday I was in it and instrument lights were going off and on and now the 'door ajar' alarm goes on and off for no reason. Engine runs fine and car is ok otherwise. Oh, and the blower fan for heater and a/c does not work. Is this a major headache or a simple problem to locate and fix?
  • billbird2111billbird2111 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my 1997 Ford Exploder that is absolutely driving me bonkers, and before I take it to another service shop to have them charge me $300 for not fixing it, I thought I'd post my problem here first.

    I have a radio that just gets CRAPPY reception. I mean -- it seems to lose signal power. And strangely enough, this happens slowly, like over the course of four or five months. Local stations that used to come in loud and clear give me only static now. And then -- after about six months of this garbage -- the situation reverses itself. The signal slowly GROWS in strength -- until I have A-1 excellent reception from local and non-local stations.

    This great reception will last for approximately six months, and then start that downward slide to static hell again. I'm telling you -- this is driving me nuts. Ford installed some sort of connection between the antenna and radio, promising that would solve the problem, but the static only got louder.

    Have any of you had ANY issues with this? Can you provide any help?

    The CD player on this thing works fine. It's the only part of the radio that I can rely upon with regularity.

    Thank you,

    Bill
  • bdcrue69bdcrue69 Member Posts: 1
    If you have a premium sound system from the factory and have a sub in the rear, the amp and 2nd part of your radio is located with the sub. I replaced my radio and took the amp, sub and 2nd part of radio out to make more room
  • tennessee01tennessee01 Member Posts: 2
    Had a similar problem with my 2008 Ford Explorer. The car would die usually in the middle of an intersection-extremely dangerous situation. Had the battery and alternator tested on the vehicle and they checked out ok. The voltage guage would be a little low of middle range. Had a check engine light on which was probably unrelated a oxygen sensor i believe. Car finally died on the side of the interstate and i removed both the battery and the alternator and took them in to be bench tested. Both tested bad or weak on the bench test and i replaced them for about $300. Havent had this problem now for about a year and my wife has been driving it every day.
  • dmr59dmr59 Member Posts: 1
    i am having issues w my a/c on my sport trac.....i just found that there is no pomer getting to the a/c comp. i no longer have my manuals and wanted to see which was the relay or fuse that drives the a/c.

    thanks
  • 05sporttrac05sporttrac Member Posts: 3
    seems many many people have the same problem with the radio staying on while the truck is off... spitting out cds then suckn'em back up again all by itself... its been draining my battery! ugh.. ok so does anyone know for sure what it is? is it the radio? is the the truck sending a signal to the radio? does it help when i punch the face of the radio? (cd's get stuck sometimes and wont eject)... ideas? thanks...
  • kline808kline808 Member Posts: 1
    Maybe someone can help me, I recently bought a used 04 explorer, after I start it the Battery gauge(on the instrument panel)starts to climb to H. When it gets to the H everything on the instrument panel seems to die.. my power windows and locks dont work, my radio doesnt work and all the needles on the instrument panel go as if the car was shut off. I checked the fuses and they all look good. I dont know what else to do...

    Thanks....
    Tom
  • Jims68stangJims68stang Member Posts: 3
    Hello..I am Having the same problem with my 99 explorer. I have replaced Battery and alt.. And No Help...Couple things to check..Ingnition...And also there is a test to check if their ids a circuit not closing when it should..Its not hard to do but Long to explain..You need a test light remove the Positive cable to batt..link Test light to the cable and the battery..1 by 1 start pulling the fuses in your vehicle when the light goes out that will tell you if you have a circuit not closing..BUT this step didn't work for me Maybe better luck with you..Let me know.. Good Luck
  • Jims68stangJims68stang Member Posts: 3
    Sounds Like a Voltage regulator which is in the back of your alt... If you have a volt meter and a haynes book It will tell you the amount of volts you should be having...12 from the Battery and 14-14 with the motor running check it at the vbattery..If this is not helping..There are 3 hook ups at the alt...the single wire should read 1 volt.. the Power wire..attached with the nut at the alt..should read 12 ...Voltage regulators funtion is to stop over charging the system..1 phase is higher range for driving around town the 2nd phase is to limit the ams when on freeway and such so it does not over charge the system..Sounds like yours is over charging..Have it tested alt.. cost 150.. So the should be able to tell you A Normal alt is 14 -15 volts....Good luck
  • Jims68stangJims68stang Member Posts: 3
    Hello..Check the Grounding strap from the Body to your motor..It should be located in the middle of the Fire wall..It is a braided strap..If this ground is Loose or corroded it may cause Blinking Lights..I Had an old mach 1 And always got pulled over because they thought i was flashing my lights at them..lol.. But it was the strap..Hope this Helps
  • ebasa2406ebasa2406 Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Ford Explorer is draining battery. The battery will charge just fine and it will start again. Even if you turn the car off after you jump it, it would start right away. After 4 hours of not running, it will drain the battery again. I do not see any symptoms with the car other than the battery draining with it sits. I remember this problem with my other 1997 Explorer and the mechanic bought some parts and went under the car and replaced something under by the oil drainage. He did not open the hood, he just went under but I do not remember what it was.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Member Posts: 9
    Just want everyone to know. I have a 2003 explorer limited and the door adjar light and dome light would stay on and the drivers side window and power door lock buttons would stop working. After several hours of troubleshooting I found broken wires in the factory wire harness in the middle of the drivers door jamb. It looks like when they installed the harness in the factory the harness got snagged on something and cut 3 wires slightly. After a few years of normal use of the door 2 out of the 3 wires finally separated from each other opening 2 important circuts for the door. I spliced the wires back together and never had an electrical problem since.
  • reeccreecc Member Posts: 2
    2002 EXPLORER XLS.
    I've been having the same problem and it has become worse over the years. It started off as the door ajar/dome light staying on but when the dealer fix my TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (1st & 3rd gears broke and fell into the trans), I believe they fixed the problem; which i think was a short in the passenger door. Recently, my car shut off on me 3 times! First i replaced the battery (it was time). the second time i was on the eway, the car started riding kind of ruff and then it just shut off. I had to cost to the bottom of the exit ramp. I replaced the alternator. Just 2 days ago, someone jumped infront of me to where I had to hit my break, just hard enough from my purse to fall on the floor. When I slowed down to start at the light the car shut off. Thank goodness it started back up, but I really need to get this fixed. Not to mention the locks flicking back and forth sometimes! When I was cleaning the snow off my windows the locks started flickering and locked me out with the car running! How much did it cost to reprogram the computer and replace the throttle?
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Member Posts: 9
    I did not reporgram the computer or replace the throttle. I found defects in the wiring harness in the door jamb. when you open your car door you will see what looks like a collapsable rubber hose. That houses a wire harness which feeds many wire circuits to your door components. When you cleaned snow off of your car some snow probably got down into your door jamb and shorted out the power door lock circuit and made them activate the door locks. If I were you I would open the door, pull back on the rubber to expose the factory wire harness, and see if there's any cuts on those wires. It's really easy and you can't break anything doing it. If a wire breaks while doing it then that means you just found an intermittant circuit. And it's broken wires like that, that are giving you intermittant problems with your power door locks and dome light being on. I had a few broken wires and a few cut wires ready to break. As far as the car shutting off when you break hard well that's probably a totally separate problem. Maybe you need a tune up with new plugs and fuel filter. At what RPM does your car idle at? Does it even hold a constant idle? You see, when you brake hard thers's a large pressure differential in your intale manifold from when your just driving down the road. Whatever's suppose to help your engine recover from that and help it idle may be where your problem is.
    I hope this helps, and I hope you find some broken wires in your door jamb because it's a very easy fix.
  • reeccreecc Member Posts: 2
    2002 EXPLORER XLS.
    I've been having the same problem and it has become worse over the years. It started off as the door ajar/dome light staying on but when the dealer fix my TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (1st & 3rd gears broke and fell into the trans), I believe they fixed the problem; which i think was a short in the passenger door. Recently, my car shut off on me 3 times! First i replaced the battery (it was time). the second time i was on the eway, the car started riding kind of ruff and then it just shut off. I had to cost to the bottom of the exit ramp. I replaced the alternator. Just 2 days ago, someone jumped infront of me to where I had to hit my break, just hard enough from my purse to fall on the floor. When I slowed down to start at the light the car shut off. Thank goodness it started back up, but I really need to get this fixed. Not to mention the locks flicking back and forth sometimes! When I was cleaning the snow off my windows the locks started flickering and locked me out with the car running! How much did it cost to reprogram the computer and replace the throttle?
  • leroyb1leroyb1 Member Posts: 1
    i need to replace the switch,i have to hold the light switch to keep them burning.never replced one before can you help?
  • jimmyd27jimmyd27 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Ford Explorer XLT V6 FFV, and when I park my car and turn off every light switch in the vehicle the rear brake lights stay on. Yes I know brake lights are only in the rear but, I over explain things. If anyone has any Ideas on what I can do before letting the dealership anal probe through my wallet. I am all ears and eager to learn. I am going to try to change the daytime run lights relay first then check back here for the next couple of days. before heading back to the dealership. Please tell your ideas, comments, or just opinions. There is no bad suggestions if it leads to the right solution.......
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