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Mercedes-Benz C230 Problems and Repairs

245

Comments

  • kufukufu Member Posts: 14
    To clear check engine light you need diagnostic tool OBD II auto scanner. You can buy it at AutoZone or over Internet. I use "Actron" model CP9175 for my '98 C230.
    Next thing to do is put new gas cap. It MUST be OEM and only dealer sell it.
    Third, clean up entire fuel system with cleaner recommended from the store.
    Next time when the engine check light is on for any reason, go to the any benz forum and try to get right answer for the problem. Check engine light does not afect performance of the car. Last thing is to see a dealer.
  • dcwaydcway Member Posts: 1
    I drive a C230K evolution,it has the 2.3l motor,i am experiencing problems with this car,when i have driven for a hour or two,when i stop i struggle to get away there is no power but it still rev`s normally,i then need to massage the throttle to get away,then then yesterday on the freeway i just lost power felt like i was driving a 1300cc,in sixth gear on a not so inclined hill i had to shift back to fourth and she only maintained the pace,can this be airflow related or can it be the kompressor of which i no nothing about,any info would be greatly appreciated
  • watty73watty73 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 C230, message came on for brake to be serviced or changed. Should I use my expensive dealer or can I go to a certified foreign shop. Car is still under warranty. Cutting back on expenses, so I am just wondering if this has any effect on warranty. It is a supercharged 4
  • jape67jape67 Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 would not change into gears. c\s switch would not work. any ideas.
  • southwesternsouthwestern Member Posts: 1
    Recently received a 2006 Mercedes c230 into our shop. We retrieved a p2188 & p2190 codes. The codes are listed as rich condition at idle at start up, bank 1 and bank 2. The customer says that when he first starts the car, the idle goes up and down a few times, then smooths out. Has anybody come across this and has fixed the problem?
  • tlangleytlangley Member Posts: 2
    Two years ago I had problems with my Mass Air Flow Sensor and replaced it. It is going bad again. I had no major problems before this.Is there something that could be causing it to go bad so soon? I supposedly purchased a new one. It seems as though everything on my car has gone crazy. There is no air coming out of my floor vents, all air seems to be coming from the windshield vent. Airconditioner does not cool, windshield wiper does not work and the cooling fan is on constantly. If they were all related I would be so happy and could this be possible?
  • woodman113woodman113 Member Posts: 1
    The spring mechanism that holds the rear trunk cover up when opened doesn't work and the trunk will slam shut if not held open. I have been trying to find the name of the part(s) responsible for this. Could it be a bad hinge?
  • joo8450joo8450 Member Posts: 2
    The ignition switch will not turn after fixing squeaky noise on driver side seat.
    I should disconnecting battery cable prior to unplugging electrical wires.
    I think that it has open circuit in feedback system had to reset.
    Anybody had a similar experience on this matter?
  • corbex23corbex23 Member Posts: 1
    hey jape well I can tell you one thing my car is in the shop for the same reason right now and they told me its my valve body on the transmission is bad and the news only gets worse it costs me 2100$ to repair its suck I know but have that looked quickly because the problem may only get worse and more expensive!
  • phycmcphycmc Member Posts: 1
    I have a '00 C230K. The air flow is working intermittently - usually on starting the car the air will not flow independent of the position of the fan-speed dial. Usually after a few minutes of driving the fan comes back on, but it does not always remain on. Is the cause likely a loose connection? Is there a simple way I could diagnose?
  • swycallisswycallis Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 C230.
    I fixed the problem by changing passenger room air filter (open batterie cover and you can pull the filter out) Mine was black and never touched by the experienced MB people . Also added a little R14 AC fluid. Everything works fine now.
    rgds Steve
  • tjeqtjeq Member Posts: 2
    The car is making a terrible rattle/pop screech sound when we first turn it on and put it in reverse. It does this whenever we put it in reverse. We took it to a repair person who "specializes" in Mercedes, since we don't have dealership where we live, and he said he didn't hear it. IMPOSSIBLE. It is noisy and embarassing. Also air conditioner just stops blowing air for no reason and after a few minutes just starts up again. Any thoughts?
  • amrharrisamrharris Member Posts: 1
    I have a C230 Sport with 66,000 miles (2006) and the check engine light came on. The dealer in Memphis says that it is the balance shaft due to the sprocket and I would like to know if that is the same thing as the soft cam gear??Either way the part is inside the engine and the dealer wants me to pay $5000 most of which is labor because the engine will have to be completely broken down and put back together. I told the dealer are you crazy???That means the part was defective from the manufacturer. Anyone else encountered this or a similiar problem??For that price I might as well trade it in....
  • speedshiftspeedshift Member Posts: 1,598
    Just wondering if anyone who owns the latest generation C has has a problem with the rear doors continually rattling. My 2008 C300 has had rattles and clunks from the rear passenger compartment since day one. At first I thought it was maybe the headrests. I mentioned it when I brought the car in for service, and the Mercedes mechanic wrote on the workorder that he'd "adjusted" and "lubed" the rear doors. Didn't fix the rattles, which are more-or-less constant over all but the smoothest roads and under braking and acceleration, particularly shifting (the car has a six speed). The clunks do sound like the windows moving, and maybe the rattles are the door panels. I can't believe the body is flexing that much, almost like they forgot to install a structural brace. I doubt it's that, but it's either the doors aren't installed properly or some kind of design defect. Anybody have any experience with this, or any ideas?
  • msinglemsingle Member Posts: 1
    My car is doing the same thing you are explaining. Did you ever find out what the sound was and why your A/C was acting up? I'm just trying to figure out if I should get rid of the car or take it in.

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • tjeqtjeq Member Posts: 2
    Nobody seems to know what is wrong. We are frustrated.
  • ucheoucheo Member Posts: 1
    Electrical problem
    1998 Mercedes Benz C230 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

    my car had an accident,
    after woking on it it developed problems like
    1. current seizing which makes the car not to turn on
    2. bad gear selection
    3.mechanics said it could be pis problem or key line problem which they said key must come with a brainbox and ignition

    pls i am really confused and need a solution to the problem cos they car is parked down

    thank you so much
  • barrymbarrym Member Posts: 9
    Steve:
    This problem sounds similar to what I'm experiencing. When we pull up to a stop the temperature of the a/c air rises (probably to outside ambient.). When we drive down the road a/c seems to run ok. From your message, I suspect a bad interior air filter. But I don't know where it is (our battery is in the trunk). Any ideas?
    TNX.
    Barry
  • mickey40mickey40 Member Posts: 1
    do any one know where i can find one that dont cost a arm and leg
  • motheroftwomotheroftwo Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 C230 Kompressor. In the past 3 weeks (it hasn't started) I've changed the alternator (three times due to faulty rebuilt alternators and bad voltage regulator), so, new alternator, new voltage regulator, new battery (fully charged) and 3 weeks later my car STILL will not start. It cranks over once and that's it. I don't know where the starter is located to see if maybe that is the problem. Any ideas before I take it to the stealer??? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay first off you have to clarify your terms. For most of us:

    "crank" means turning the engine over with the starter, not the actual running of the engine.

    "start" means the actual running of the engine.

    So, to clarify, you are saying that your engine doesn't crank fast enough, or cranks very little--it isn't being turned over by the starter motor?

    Or are you saying it cranks and cranks and cranks but will not start?
  • motheroftwomotheroftwo Member Posts: 3
    It cranks very little. It doesn't crank over and over nor does it make any clicking sounds. When I turn the key for about a second it sounds like it's trying to start and then nothing. The car was running fine until 3 weeks ago when the new alternator was put in, turns out it was a faulty alternator, which had to be replaced and somehow my battery drained during the process, so it also has a new battery which is fully charged.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well okay, what I would do is jump start the car, and then test to see if the alternator is at least charging, using a simple voltmeter on the battery terminals. If it's charging, then I'd test the battery with a load test. A drained battery is often killed if it goes completely dead and even a good alternator cannot bring it back to life.

    The starter is the last thing I'd suspect.

    Usually a tip off to a bad starter is when you jump start the car, and even with assistance from another car, the engine barely cranks and the battery cables become too hot to touch after only a few cranks. That means the starter is dragging.

    By all means, after testing the alternator and load-testing the battery (if it's more than 3 years old, it is suspect just from old age, and over 5 years old, definitely suspect), then make sure your battery cables are clean AND secure on both ends (that is, in all 4 places where the cables attach to something).

    The basis for any accurate diagnosis is NEVER assume that because something is new or rebuilt, that it is good.
  • motheroftwomotheroftwo Member Posts: 3
    We've tried to jump start the car with two different vehicles, it BARELY cranks. We have had the battery tested twice since we got the new alternator, they keep telling me it's a good battery. I called a local MB mechanic and tried to explain the problem, he told me to lock and unlock my car 3 times to reset the car. Needless to say, it didn't work. That's the only information he gave me and told me to bring it in. I've checked all fuses, wires, no corrosion, the battery cables are clean and on tight. I have NO idea where to look now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you can still be fooled if someone is using cheap jumper cables. Best thing to do is put a fresh battery directly in, as one last test. If it still cranked slowly, and the cables got hot real fast, then I'd go with the starter theory.

    OR---your engine could be starting to seize.

    Has anyone been using copious amounts of starting ether/fluid?

    That's bind your engine (temporarily, don't freak out).

    Starting ether is a solvent that washes all the oil off the cylinders.
  • paulxk1paulxk1 Member Posts: 8
    Change the mechanics, they are nil!

    It is a rather common problem with the merc auto gear boxes. Most likely the conductor plate needs changing ($1,000); if you are lucky it may be just the sensor or some contamination from the radiator (may be established in the inspection).

    Good luck
  • paulxk1paulxk1 Member Posts: 8
    If the clanking noise comes from steering (full lock) when reversing, then it is the steering rack. I have the same issue after a shunt and I am battling the insurance/dealer....

    For the air con, ask that grease monkey to plug in the diagnosis tools and check the error code; it is possible that you had the air con on while keeping the windows open
  • chevecheve Member Posts: 4
    i bought a used mercedes 01 and i had to change the battery on it and now the stereo is asking me for a code that i dont have does anyone knows how can i find this code thanks...
  • paulxk1paulxk1 Member Posts: 8
    head gaskets; the fuel chit-chat is debilitating: all refineries have the same process for the various octane fuel. Forget the additives bed-time stories.
  • paulxk1paulxk1 Member Posts: 8
    put the 4 grand on a Lexus / Accura / Audi / BMW.
  • paulxk1paulxk1 Member Posts: 8
    the change of breaks, exhausts, tyres do not count in the equation of the warranty preservation; only the SERVICE counts (and that in the USA. In Europe, the warranty is not affected if the right service steps / procedures are carried out).

    The only thing you will loose will be the Mobilo breakdown recovery (if you do not service in the MoB network)
  • paulxk1paulxk1 Member Posts: 8
    Jesus Christ! Holly Moses!!Almighty Allah!!

    This is a $33 part that takes 20 mins to screw on (including refilling of the gerabox)!!!! This is borderline criminal!!!
  • paulxk1paulxk1 Member Posts: 8
    I am currently in the process initiating a legal case (with sweet overwhelming evidence) against MB UK and a large franchise dealer.

    The case is complex (both insurance and and supported by substatiated evidence.) and the claim is supported by one of the best legal firms in UK.

    I am interested to find people out there (USA or Europe) with issues with their MB's shortly after their warranty expired (the famous 50-50 'settlement of the bills) so that I can push for a class action (my lawyers will decide on the base of the evidences)

    Transmission, electrics & electronics, steering racks issues, all welcome.

    Thanks

    Paul

    PS I am already checking on Lexus (IS) and BMW (Alpina D3). These are A-'class' cars not C-class...lol
  • startech1startech1 Member Posts: 2
    My garage told me I need to replace both Oxygen sensors.at a cost of $1400.00 I can purchase Bosch Oxygen Sensors for less than $200.00 each. Can they be replaced myself easily and do I have to reflash the memory as recommended by the garage?
  • rdf63rdf63 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 C230 with 93,000 and the engine light came on. Before going to a dealership and getting consumed try the following because it worked for me. I purchased Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner and put it in the gas tank when it was almost empty. I drove the car for about one week and the check engine light went off. The reason was the Fuel System cleaner works well to keep the gas clean and as a mechanic told me, it often takes 15 - 20 cycles (drives) before the engine light corrects itself. It took about 5 days for the problem to stop but hope this experience helps.
  • rdf63rdf63 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 C230 with 93,000 and the engine light came on. Before going to a dealership and getting consumed try the following because it worked for me. I purchased Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner and put it in the gas tank when it was almost empty. I drove the car for about one week and the check engine light went off. The reason was the Fuel System cleaner works well to keep the gas clean and as a mechanic told me, it often takes 15 - 20 cycles (drives) before the engine light corrects itself. It took about 5 days for the problem to stop but hope this experience helps.
  • oosthuyzenoosthuyzen Member Posts: 1
    I have a C230 Kompressor 1999 model, on the instument cluster there is a warning light coming some times and then not while driving. The idication says BAS ASR, I think it has something to do with the traction control, but are not sure. Any advise.
  • 06c230sport06c230sport Member Posts: 1
    My air compressor won't come on. Checked the charge, looks to be in the high range, so not low. Checked fuses, both A/C fuses are OK. Any suggestions, besides $95/hr at the dealership to find the problem?
  • sportdrvrsportdrvr Member Posts: 2
    Before changing a weak battery, computer wasn't allowing transmission to shift, among other things. New battery cleared that but now hazard lite and master door lock buttons don't work and mechanic can't reset service due readout in spite of using his 'key'. Instrument motor(s) were acting up too, but don't hear that now.
    SRS lite on too, which traces to driver's buckle, although seems ok.
  • dpt1dpt1 Member Posts: 1
    recently bought a used C 230 for my son with 40,000 miles still under factory warranty, a couple days ago it started responding as if it was in sport setting or like a manual transmission even in the comfort setting. when you take your foot off the accelerator or coast down a hill, there is a pull on the engine, like it is still engaged, much like you feel with a manual transmission. took it back to the dealer who drove it and of course said it was running fine and just as it is supposed to, but im not stupid. ive owned mercedes, BMW, hummers, ford, dodge, subaru and the list goes on and i can tell when the engoine is still engaged, my thought is in an automatic it shouldnt be if you are coasting in the comfort or auto setting with it in drive, it shouldnt pull on the engine like a manual when you let off the gas. any help?
  • newyorknicknewyorknick Member Posts: 1
    How does one turn the alarm off from sensitive??? If a truck goes by the alarm goes off?? Any suggestions????? :confuse:
  • kellirobkellirob Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 MB C230 that I purchased brand new in Germany. I have had problems with the transmission slipping since day one. Well finally my car is in the shop as I write needing a new transmission. I have 67,000 miles on it. I was driving down the highway when it seemed to shift in first or second. My RPM went up to almost 6 and I started losing acceleration. When I pulled over to the side of the road, my car wouldn't move. I turned it off and back on again, put it in drive, and it would not budge. Would not reverse either. Had to call tow truck. My car has been in the shop for 5 days and MB is telling me I need a new transmission!!! Warranty just expired!!!! Any suggestions?? How do we go about making them recall? I have read about this from other owners. Kelli
  • kellirobkellirob Member Posts: 2
    Get rid of it! I own a 2006 MB C230. I bought it brand new and picked it up from the assembly line in stuggart Germany and have had transmission problems since day one. I should have gotten rid of it when I hit 50,000 miles. My car is in the shop right now needing a new transmission!!! Only has 67,000 miles. I have been the only owner and driver!! Very dissapointed! Thinking about going back to a Honda.
  • whitey9whitey9 Member Posts: 138
    BOTH!?! Why? To help them make their BOAT PAYMENT? RE-FLASH? Why?
    You must be a LOTTERY WINNER. I have a bridge in Arizona for sale if you have any money left after you leave your garage.
  • whitey9whitey9 Member Posts: 138
    A little gray card. There is a credit card-like card that has the radio "code" on it.
    It SHOULD be in your owner's packet IN YOUR GLOVEBOX. Without it, you might get the code from the dealer if they perform a "VMI". The code MIGHT be correct if the radio has never been replaced. Or if the tech updated the new code number if it has been. Otherwise, the code may be accessed by using the radio serial number and calling the "radio code dept.", or accessing the vehicle's "service history". After that, it is a simple matter to enter the code using the pushbuttons on the radio faceplate. GOOD LUCK!
  • lmodenlmoden Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone give me some instructions on 1)where is the mas air sensor and how to change it
  • rwitcherrwitcher Member Posts: 1
    have 2000 c230 with 108000,
    i had to removed the windshield wiper motor and replace a nut on the regulator, when i completed it i could not move any of my window up or down and the side view mirrors would not move. i check all fuse. and all are fine.
    any suggestions.

    thanks ,
  • ubruceubruce Member Posts: 3
    Hello paul, my email address "nowurclean@yahoo.com" Im having transmission problems that will cost over 3,000 and brought from a local dealer (automax)respected dealer in killeen, texas 2006 c230, warranty expired 50,069 miles and transmission went out and everyone is passing the buck and says they will pay 50% of the parts and i will have to pay for labor, parts so instead of 4,000 i have to pay 3,000 lol! I had it taken to a MB dealership and was told that there was no maintance on the transmission and that is the reason why it went out and automax says they did but, its going back and forth and to make it so worst i went w/o a car for 2 days and @ first they didnt even want to give me a loaner car they advised me to go to enterpise but after complaining they had me have to drive a hour to them to get the car... very disappointed.. also on the c230 says(MFG Component code 103000 power train:automatic transmission) recalled still nothing please let me know if this was of any assistance.thank u
  • ubruceubruce Member Posts: 3
    my email address "nowurclean@yahoo.com" Im having transmission problems that will cost over 3,000 and brought from a local dealer (automax)respected dealer in killeen, texas 2006 c230, warranty expired 50,069 miles and transmission went out and everyone is passing the buck and says they will pay 50% of the parts and i will have to pay for labor, parts so instead of 4,000 i have to pay 3,000 lol! I had it taken to a MB dealership and was told that there was no maintance on the transmission and that is the reason why it went out and automax says they did but, its going back and forth and to make it so worst i went w/o a car for 2 days and @ first they didnt even want to give me a loaner car they advised me to go to enterpise.
  • creditman1creditman1 Member Posts: 5
    Fuse box is most likely melted. Thats how I found my problem. I'd be driving and out of know where the alarm would go off and would not stop blowing till I pulled the fuse out.
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