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Ex: Dash may have shown N while it was in D. Took car to transmission shop and transmission was rebuilt. After picking up vehicle from shop the D light no longer lights up on dash. The vehicle from the shop I was given to drive ironically also did not show the D lighting up on dash. When I took Rodeo to be fixed the D did display. My question...I have been reading that a flashing D often indicates a transmission problem. Is it possible that the shop has somehow disconnected this light so that it does not indicate there is still a transmission issue? It seems to drive okay but it seems strange that both my car and theirs do not show the D.
Note that the mode switch position is very important. If it is removed to be replaced or cleaned, it must be put back in the same position or it may not work correctly.
Perhaps the shop did not reconnec the mode switch? Perhaps the mode switch was the original issue and no rebuild was needed?
Similar discussion
http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-2/12470-1999-rodeo-passport-strange-transmiss- ion-issue.html
Detailed info on cleaning with pictures http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/range.pdf
dhliteofgod20082yahoo.com God bless
I'm, of course, new here and I hate for my first post to be asking for help. But I really do need it, and will be very appreciateve for any suggestions/help. Sorry for the long post, but if I'm asking for help, I try to be as detailed as possible.
Anyways, I have a 2001 Rodeo S 4x2 5 speed. Short of a couple alternators, an AC compressor and that DA%! gas gauge/sender, haven't had much trouble. Until now.
Today as I was getting off the interstate I was gear braking (my front pads are just about gone and Im trying to save the rotors until I get time this week to change them) and suddenly the clutch pedal dropped to the floor. it wasn't a gentle, floating drop either, it felt like something snapped and down it went.
I pulled to the shoulder off the exit and took a look and there was nothing leaking, nor was the master cylinder low on fluid. The pedal, itself isn't broken either. Everything seemed normal, except for the clutch being stuck at the engaged position. Once I limped to my destination right around the corner (a 5-speed with no clutch, stuck engaged is quite an interesting drive. Thank God I knew about the old "rev till it pops in gear" trick), I did some further checking.
I need to advise that I had a similar clutch problem about a year ago, but the fluid was leaking out of the slave cylinder boot slowly. I "fixed" it by zip tying the boot to seal it back on the metal part, added fluid, bled it and all has been fine. Until now. That being said, I would totally jackslap someone who drives this way for a year, without a true fix, but honestly, it's been perfect and I forgot about it.
Once I was under the transmission, I could see where fluid has been leaking out over the past year, but it doesn't seem to be leaking much, as the Master Cylinder is full. Anyways, I bled it, hoping some air somehow got in the system, but of course this did nothing. I can see the slave cylinder moving when the clutch is pressed, but it doesn't look like it's moving very far.
My question is, do you think it's the slave cylinder? I'm hoping it is, and not a clutch or pressure plate, as that would almost be prohibitively expensive. I don't even mind if it's the master cylinder as that's only like $60. I'm thinking it is the slave cylinder, seeing as I had trouble with it previously.
Any input would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you!
a HARD SHIFT problem. It does not happen all the time. Only when I have a little problem starting the car, after i'ts been off for a while. When it starts shifting hard I need to shut the car off then re-start and it will go away. I had the transmission re-built, but the problem is still there. Also the check engine light never comes on.
Any Sugjestions! Thanks!
Is the Range Sensor the same as a Nuetral Safety switch? And were is it located?
also
Were is the Transmision Mode Switch located?
Thank You!
I have been experiencing the same problem as you describe with my 95 Honda Passport. I have to manually shift mine and also 4 th gear does not work.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
(I don't know why it is showing a response to "tahomas1" it is for the cheryl31)
ive looked for help and just found more questions so after getting down into it ive found the electrica problems i have changed outside fuse/relay box still no shifting so i went to change
fluid and filter while under i found more electrical so i replaced transmission harness ive just got my fluid in and ready to go and doing a few more checks i found a electrical repair on driver side
fender near firewall cut it open and followed badly burnt wires melted together i do not no how t he vehicle will start much less run well anyway im in the middle of this repair tracing wires leads
to ecm and transmission i hope this will be my final repair i hoope this mite help some iwill come back and post when done with this repair maybe it will b e good news and maybe it wont i just want to let others know how this one repair of the thousands of rodeo problems repairs that are going on
He purchased needle nose plyers with a 45 degree angle but still can not get the clutch fork attached.
Can anyone lead me to transmission installation instructions that explains the proper procedure to get the clutch fork installed?
He is repairing this vehicle to give me so I can go look for a job so any help at all would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
P.s. Im a girl that is just learning the ropes of whats under the hood, but I did have this happen to my rodeo.
Have you had any insight or luck with this trans. problem? I had the same issues happen with my 01 rodeo last winter, and believe it was a combo of electrical and bad tranny. Let me know what worked for you.
Thanks,
Rodeowind
After doing massive research on the 4L60e transmission (it is a GM standard transmission and is on many different types of cars and trucks, Isuzu, Honda, BMW, GM, Ford, etc.), I decided that I wanted to check and see if it is something outside or peripheral to the transmission as the second to last thing I want to do is rebuild a transmission. The last thing I want to do is pay someone to rebuild it for me.
So today I opened up the speed selector (the gear changing mechanism on the driver's side of the transmission). It was very dirty inside and I though that this must be the reason it was slipping. Test drove it after replacing with a new one ($116 at Autozone). Nope. Same problem. Now I am looking at other components that may be causing the issue. Solenoids, connectors, wiring harness. I already replaced the battery on the car as I read that marginal battery power can cause issues with this particular transmission - no luck there either. I also disconnected the battery and disconnected the PCM, hoping that it would reload the EEPROM once I hooked it back up (in case there was a PCM glitch).
I have a copy of the 4000+ page Rodeo and Trooper depot maintenance manual for 2000. Lots of info, but light on troubleshooting - mostly "Check pressure level, if too high or too low, rebuild transmission". For obvious cash flow reasons the shop wants the tech to do a rebuild as it is a big ticket item.
I have read about people taking the Rodeo to the shop and paying $2500+ only to have the same problem and find it is one fo the peripheral parts. I am really hoping that is the case with my current issue.
By the way - I did find where someone uses a novel approach to filling the transmission fluid on this terribly engineered unit. The install a nylon 3/8 to 1/4 barbed end to MIP to secure their fill tube and prevent backspray when the transmission is filled. Others use the transmission cooling line to both empty and fill the transmission. Remember, the transmission only holds 9 quarts - so no more than that added. Also remember that when filling from the bottom (the most common method), it is a two step process. The first 3 quarts go in, then put the fill plug back in. Run for about 10 mins until engine is hot and tran fluid starts circulating through the cooling system. Remove fill plug and pump in the remaining fluid until filled (fluid back up into the transfer pump (the pump that you bought to transfer the fluid from it's bottle into the transmission). Then reinstall the plug. Should hold a total of 9 quarts.
More on my saga as it unfolds...
Solution: Purchase a high quality gasket, replace it, and fill the transmission with fluid and as long as there is no serious damage, you'll be good to go.
P.s. This problem, despite a high quality gasket will eventually return. Also, you have to get under the vehicle to fill the transmission, so I suggest you just take it to a shop. Shouldn't be too expensive.