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Comments
you can try adding some lubeguard red. You can usually get it at NAPA for about $10/bottle.
I was afraid it might be something more costly than shocks. I drive around extremely precious cargo, so safety is the utmost concern. Suspension it is, and I'll rethink the paint job when I have more money to play with. The champagne gold is beautiful, so I can live with it at least.
I really want this car to have everything it needs so it will last for many years. I will contact you if you don't mind, and continue reading the forums here as well.
Thank you so much for your advice - I will adhere to it and treat my Q like the treasure she is. You've given me confidence that the rewards for doing so will be great.
YOU ARE AWESOME!!!
But first, let me address Melanie. Congrats on the new car, you bought a car you will thoroughly enjoy. Elwesso did a more knowledgeable job on the mechanicals than I could ever do. I will only add that you should not turn off the Traction Control (TCS), that will not improve the suspension and could cause dangerous wheel spin, especially on wet roads.
Melanie, forget the paint job. Unless the car was completely neglected, a good washing, claying and polishing will bring back the shine. I highly recommend you visit Zainostore.com and order your products from them. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, take it to a recommended detailer in your area, they'll get it looking good as new for much less than a paint job.
Elwesso, your post was so informative for me. I had no idea about charging the accumulators. My car has been feeling every bump in the road. I've checked the fluid level of the AS and its fine. I didn't realize these accumulators need to be charged. I'm going to follow up on that with a good mechanic that I use and see if its something he can do (he did replace other suspension components and bushings for me a while back when I started to hear a rattling when I went over bumps).
I would encourage Melanie to ask your questions here and Elwesso to publish your answers here as all of us would benefit. Hey, its not like there's 20 posts a day on this thread and you're taking up valuable space, LOL!
No more turning off the TCS, even though we all know it never rains in sunny CA. And I have reluctantly given up on the paint - guess I'll have to settle for big, fuzzy, purple dice instead (KIDDING! I'd personally kill anyone who did that).
What a nice little family this is - so glad I stumbled in here! Wes, your other 2 websites are excellent, too. I will be an Infiniti scholar within a month. Imagine their expressions when I walk in and tell them I need them to recharge my accumulators. I am sooo looking forward to that!
If you want, hit me up and I'll tell you where to get the accumulators recharged (I dont know about posting my source on the forum?).
Dont bother asking your mechanic if he can do the job, because he wont know whats goin on until you actually get the parts and show him how to replace. The replacemnt is ULTRA simple, I did the main accums on an active and they take about 10 mins per corner. Its literally remove 3 screws, pull off accumuator, put it back on with a fresh O ring and screw it back in. If you're located near Central Indiana, I'm your new mechanic.. LOL!!!
for all. If you guys have questions, PLEASE do not hesitate to send me an email or whatever have you. I'm here to help EVERY Q45 owner, regardless of year, mileage or condition. There isnt an issue that me and my collegues havent heard of or cant fix!
Ask them. If they say "it accumulates", that is not a sufficient answer.
It really would be best if people would post their questions and you would post your responses here. The advantage to that is then the information is available to many people forever. Um, well, at least for a very long time, we hope.
If you deal with issues by email, you help only that one person that one time.
Okay I got a 1994 Infiniti Q45 with 188,899 miles on it. Car runs very quiet and Smooth. Then today I noticed that while on the interstate the car never shifted out of 2nd gear. first works, second works, but 3rd, even if i manually put it into 3rd, it is the same as second. Then Drive, Is also the same as 2nd and 3rd except when I let off the gas in Drive its as if the car is in neutral and it begins to idle. Then when I give it more gas in drive, Its as if it is in neutral until a certain rpm. The gears are not slipping and have never slipped... The funny thing is, I have randomly seen a TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION light on my diagnosis screen. Very rare, but it has happened about 20 times in about 6 months. But I ignored it, since it didn't happen that often, and I had no problems.
What is wrong with my car...
Thanks for the help
Also, my tire pressure monitor is not working. And, normally if I drive my car for about 30-40 the low tire pressure warning will come on. Any idea what the problem and fix might be?
Finally, my front dome lights are extremely dim. The passenger side is brighter than the driver side, but both are very dim...almost worthless. Any idea what the problem and fix might be?
Otherwise it kinda sounds like a MAF issue, but it could be other things. Im going to need more information, when it started and other historical things like that.
I have an 02 Q45 premium edition. My right head light went out and I had to replace the bulb and ballister for 930.00... Ouch... You can probably save about 300.00 if you go after market if you dont mind the labor or you know someone who can do it. I just let the dealer take care of it.
My dome lights are doing the same thing except my passenger light is dim. It also makes a little buzzing noise. When I press the actual button to turn it on it works fine. I only have issues when I get in and out of the car. It is just crappy wiring nothing more. Bad connection.
About every three months my tire pressure sensor blinks on with a low pressure warning. It is always the same tire and I believe it is a bad tire stem, nothing major. The dealership noticed it on my last oil change and tried to tell me the sensor was bad but I know it isn't that, so I declined.
I just thought it was kind of funny our issues are so similar and thought I would say something. By the way, Elwesso thanks for your input!!!!
Changed pads (Infiniti factory pads) on all four wheels and light persists. - He was advised on this forum to ground the two leads on right front pad together and did so with no sucess. - He is a Marine pilot coming back fm Al Asad in An Bar Province and I am cleaning up his Q, etc.,. for him and would like to get the warning light off. - Any suggestions? - As an aside I have a 2002 Q45 with sport pkg, GPS, sun-shade, etc.,. and I now have 115K trouble free miles on it. - Great cars. Joe Woodward, Wilmington, NC.
However, within the next few years I'll be heading off to medical school and we are looking to keep the Q for as long as we can. The reason we are hesitating is because while we are in school, there won't be a ton of money around for repairs should something go wrong. Actually... next to no money except for regular maintenance. So the question is, is there any issues with the 1998 or 1997-2001 model years that tend to pop up with regularity enough fr us to worry about them for the next 4 years/50,000 miles?
I absolutely love the 97/98 styling, and the performance is no slouch either. Any help would be appreciated.
Joe Woodward
1st the tail lights dont work along with the dash panel illumination. I replaced the switch on the steering column, checked all the fuses, even had a backyard mechanic check several things to no clear solution. any ideas??
2nd my A/c stoppped working yesterday. The thing was working, but would sometimes go warm while driving. I could change to econ and back to auto and that would cure it temporarily. Now it just blows hot except when i first turn the car on it gets a little cool, but quickly turns hot. Please help
P.S. I live in Texas and it is HOT AS HELL!!!
Thanks for any ideas. I would like to avoid taking it to the dealer until I know it needs that level of attention.
I ran out of gas last Friday (a week ago) and things just haven't been right since. This car has 62K original miles and has been meticulously maintained. It was given to me as a gift by the original owners who considered it their 'baby'. It's latest emmissions report still looks like it just came off the showroon floor....and now it's a hugh mess.(or hopefully, maybe not)
On Monday AM I started calling the dealership and all Infinity shops throughout town All different answers and no 2 the same. I even asked if I was the only Infinity driver who had ever run out of gas....and was answered with a resounding,' No, not by a long shot....however you are the only one I (service mgr at dealership) know whose ever had such problems afterwards.'
Until the moment I ran out of gas the car was in absolutely perfect condition!!!!
OK Here's what's happened once I ran out of gas:
After adding a half tank of gasoline (yes, always the super premium...I used Shell when it ran out of gas) it was running really rough, but would get down the street...and then die when I'd come to a stop in traffic. I could then restart it in neutral, hold the tach evenly to 1000rpms, then drop it into gear to move forward. The battery didn't like this much, but things were ok-ish.
In gear it tries to bounce between 500 and 1200 rpms(and propel the car forward even with my foot on the brake) before it gives up. In neutral it does a little better and just doesn't bounce as much, and the engine stays on a little longer before it dies).
The next afternoon (Sat) I had the fuel filter replaced. I drove/limped it straight home and parked it for the night.(still with the same holding the tach up and dropping it into gear). It would not stay in gear and remain running. When in Neutral or Park it would try to hold it's idle much longer, but eventually would die. Sunday AM when I started it, it ran just as rough and suddenly had black smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Monday I had the spark plugs replaced. The black smoke was no longer there. I thought it might be better and tried to drive it down the street to get more gasoline but as soon as I got out of the drive and down the hill I realised it would't hold compression and it smelled/s real 'gasoliney'...but clean. We've had some rain this week and when it's rainey and air quality is more humid it's even weirder. I cannot drive it back up the hill (or at all) because it will not rev to more thann 2000rpms at all...and will not hold compression.
Now it is Sunday a week later, weather drier, The car starts right up, tries to hold compression at about 1000 rpms about 15-20 seconds, then drops to 500rpms, then dies. Now there is some whitish smoke out the tailpipe. My Infinity friend will come over tonight to drag it back up the hill to my house.
I've nursed and limped through so far with the help of my 'Infinity guy' friend and a couple machanic friends of his here, but we're all stumped. I have read the owners manual Section 9 on Systems and How They Work until I am blue in the face and stilljust don't know.
At first it ran too rich (sucking too much air)when I refueled after running out of gas and now it seems too lean (sucking fuel like crazy) since I changed the spark plugs. When I first ran out of gas, I put in a gallon then filled it to about half a tank. I have driven it about 30 miles (just getting gas and the filter change at the shop) (plugs replaced at home) and it has used all but 1/8 of the tank. (Had about 10 gallons, now I have about 2).
I have read about all those sensors and control modules and I feel that something is not reading info right or has allowed something to remain open. Somebody mentioned replacing the fuel pump....and a long time ago with 302 v-8 Mustang, white smoke indicated a head-gasket problem.
There have been two mechanics (not Infinity mechanics) who got in and revved up the engine (by punching the accelerator) and I cringed and insisted that they stop immediately. I know that is never good for any car and I don't understand why people do that!!! Anyway, from my reading the manual, I wonder about the idle air sensor and if that could be not reading something correctly or possibly something in the mixture control system thereby either not maintaining appropriate pressure to the injectors or can an injector stay stuck open? I only have the owner's manual to go by and that doesn't offer much detailed information and I am not a mechanic...
I hope this is clear enough to make some sense you go-to-guys. Anyone who can help , please reply to the group as soon as possible or you can write me direct. My Infinity friend will be over here after 7 tonight TX time to drag my car up the hill and home. He is also a part-time manager of a parts store, and can help me get the right parts...Infinity's are his passion. I really need to get my car up and running as soon and as cost effectively as possible....because, you know, if I'm not working, I'm not getting paid! Thanks to any and everybody.
Sincerely and Hopefully...
Pamela/willowork
I've never posted on a forum or thread before and this is sort of long, so I apologize in advance if this is redundant or posted multiple times or in the wrong place.
I ran out of gas last Friday (a week ago) and things just haven't been right since. This car has 62K original miles and has been meticulously maintained. It was given to me as a gift by the original owners who considered it their 'baby'. It's latest emmissions report still looks like it just came off the showroom floor....and now it's a hugh mess.(or hopefully, maybe not)
Until the moment I ran out of gas the car was in absolutely perfect condition!!!!
OK Here's what's happened once I ran out of gas:
After adding a half tank of gasoline (yes, always the super premium...I used Shell when it ran out of gas) it was running really rough, but would get down the street...and then die when I'd come to a stop in traffic. I could then restart it in neutral, hold the tach evenly to 1000rpms, then drop it into gear to move forward. The battery didn't like this much, but things were ok-ish.
In gear it tries to bounce between 500 and 1200 rpms(and propel the car forward even with my foot on the brake) before it gives up. In neutral it does a little better and just doesn't bounce as much, and the engine stays on a little longer before it dies).
The next afternoon (Sat) I had the fuel filter replaced. I drove/limped it straight home and parked it for the night.(still with the same holding the tach up and dropping it into gear). It would not stay in gear and remain running. When in Neutral or Park it would try to hold it's idle much longer, but eventually would die. Sunday AM when I started it, it ran just as rough and now had black smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Monday I had the spark plugs replaced. The black smoke was no longer there. I thought it might be better and tried to drive it down the street to get more gasoline but as soon as I got out of the drive and down the hill I realised it would't hold compression and it smelled/s real 'gasoliney'...but clean. We've had some rain this week and when it's rainey and air quality is more humid it's even weirder. I cannot drive it back up the hill (or at all) because it will not rev to more than 2000rpms at all...and will not hold compression.
Now it is Sunday a week later, weather drier, The car starts right up, tries to hold compression at about 1000 rpms about :30 seconds, then drops to 500rpms, then dies. Now there is some whitish smoke out the tailpipe. My Infinity friend will come over tonight to drag it back up the hill to my house.
I've nursed and limped through so far with the help of a couple Infinity guys here, but we're all stumped. I have read the owners manual Section 9 on Systems and how they work until I am blue in the face and just don't know.
At first it ran too rich (sucking too much air) and now it seems too lean (sucking fuel like crazy). When I first ran out of gas, I put in a gallon then filled it to about half a tank. I have driven it about 30 miles (just getting gas and the filter change at the shop) (plugs replaced at home) and it has used all but 1/8 of the tank. (Started with about 10 gallons and now I have about 2).
I have read about all those sensors and control modules and I feel that something is not reading info right or has allowed something to remain open. Somebody mentioned replacing the fuel pump....and a long time ago with 302 v-8 Mustang, white smoke indicated a head-gasket problem. Gosh I hope not....YIKES!!
There have been two mechanics who got in and revved up the engine (by punching the accelerator) and I cringed and insisted that they stop immediately. I know that is never good for any car and I don't understand why people do that!!! Anyway, from my reading the manual, I wonder about the idle air sensor and if that could be not reading something correctly or possibly something in the mixture control system thereby either not maintaining appropriate pressure to the injectors or can an injector stay stuck open? I only have the owner's manual to go by and that doesn't offer much detailed information and I am not a mechanic...
I hope this is clear enough to make some sense you go-to-guys. Anyone who can help , please reply to the group as soon as possible or you can write me direct. My Infinity friend will be over here after 7 tonight TX time to drag my car up the hill and home. He is also a part-time manager of a parts store, and can help me get the right parts...Infinity's are his passion. I really need to get my car up and running as soon and as cost effectively as possible....because, you know, if I'm not working, I'm not getting paid! Thanks to any and everybody.
Sincerely and Hopefully...
Pamela/willowork
Thanks
Specifically you said something about starting off in second gear and then shifting into third gear until above 50 miles per hour or so. I don't remember the exact speeds you mentioned.
Question: Can you elaborate on this? Is the reason related to longevity? performance? gas mileage?
By the way, I really appreciate the way you share all this great information with everyone!
when in the city (below 50-ish MPH) I leave the car in "3". When I reach highway speeds I shift to D...
Basically what this does is it wont let the transmission shift into 4th gear (or OD). This is the same thing as pressing the "OD OFF" button on other cars, because most other cars have P-R-N-D-2-1, not P-R-N-D-3-2-1.
At any rate, the reason I like to keep it in 3rd gear at lower speeds is because
1. The VH45DE is not a motor that likes low RPMs. In other words, it HATES being at 1200 RPM at 40MPH with the TC locked. It would much rather be at 2000 RPM. Unless your motor is PERFECT shape (new knock sensors, SPARKLING CLEAN PLENUM, etc etc etc) it may even lug (start bucking like it wants to stall).
2. Since the RPMs are slightly higher, there is more torque available at any given time. Thus, when you are driving around in the city in D (or 4th), you will be constantly making the torque converter unlock, shift into 3rd, shift back into 4th and then relock the torque converter. When you drive in 3rd, many times the TC can stay locked. the short story on that, is that the transmission shifts MUCH less.
on that note, the increased RPM's also allow more flow of Trans fluid through the cooler, increasing longevity.
3. Gas mileage is not effected. The Q gets crappy gas mileage in the city anyway (as does ANY 4000lb V8 vehicle)..
Once you get past the fact that the RPMs are higher than you may be used to, its much better for the motor. This motor is a high performance motor, high RPM motor, not a low RPM torque monster that domestic single valve motors are. They also dont make 300HP out of a 274CI engine, which is pretty impressive for a stock motor.
A VH45DE should be below 2000 RPMs very seldom.. 2000 and up RPM is where its happiest...
After putting premium gas in the car, I had not driven a mile, and it started missing. It would barely run, even with the accelerator to the floor.
I noticed that liquid was coming out of the tailpipe, and I am afraid that it is gas.
After driving only 15 miles, it had used 1/2 a tank of gas.
One sensor has been replaced.
What can I do to fix this problem?
Thanks
I'm having similar issues with my 91 Q45. Did you get an answer to your post?
"94 Q45, 158,000 miles, was looking under the car today and the oil appears to be leaking from the area that the tranny mounts to the engine, it's definetly oil."
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=127359
or even a leaky oil pan ...
"Today I pulled the transmission to eliminate what I figured was an oil leak from the rear main seal or the oil pan. Ended up being the oil pan".
(near the bottom) http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=173146
Best to wash off the entire area and see where the leak appears again.
Thanks Guys!
Eric in Atlanta
I dont think that a fuse is to blame. Either you got REALLY unlucky with both LAN modules going out, or you have some switch issues...
If you want to check the fuse in the underhood thatd be the first step...
Second isue relates to sudden appearance of creaking and groaning noise coming from the left front of the car. Tokiko Blues installed at about the same time as the tune up in 2003. Any suggestions or places to start looking for the issue would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
http://www.q45.org/ohminjectors.html
The creaking and groaning is probably an upper link - maybe a tension rod bushing.
I appreciate it!
Have you checked the fluid? Is it a nice red or an ugly brown? You should at least have a BG or Sun flush performed on it. Transmission shops will usually not want to remove the pan and filter, but there are rarely any problems doing that on a Q45.
Ideally, you'd get the kit with gasket and one-use bolts, pull the pan and clean the filter and put it back together. Then you'd flush it with a cleaner at BG or Sun. Often that works great.
Here are a few threads I found on the subject:
Drain and refill Q45 transmission
Homemade mechanical Tranny flush
Transmission flush
I am having the exact same electrical problem on my 91 Q45. Did anyone help you yet?
The A/C problem sounds like a broken mix door - it's stuck on heat. Here's a similar problem where it was stuck on cold:
No Heat - Broken Mix Door?
Also, after I did all the work mentioned in the beginning, my car seems to burn more gas than before. Is there something I can do to correct this?
thank you so much for all the help you've all provided here in this forum and thank you for all the help you are going to be providing.
THANK YOU ALL!
http://www.q45.org/techhelp.html
Read everything under " Chain Guides (CRITICAL for 1990-1993):"
Sorry. See if you can get juice directly to the starter, or manually turn the engine.
Phase 1 vs. Phase 2 fuel rails
Also read texasoil's comments in this thread:
Fuel Injector Woes at TexasOil Garage
About two months ago, the "break pad worn" light came on a few times. We did not change the pads, and the light has not been on since.
Today the "headlamp inoperative" light came on while I was driving it and the headlamp was working fine. The light came on and off several times, each time for a minute or so.
Does anyone have any idea why those lights came on and off while the car didn't seem to have those problems?
But sometimes these things are early warning signs of an alternator that's going bad. If you're concerned, you can have it tested at an experienced alternator shop. It has three diodes, but will function on two of them for a time, if one burns out. This can confuse the car's electronics.
Also, does a '97 need to do takeoffs and city driving in 2nd gear? Thanks....
2nd gear takeoffs? A '97 will take off in 1st - can't skip it.