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Honda CR-V Start Stall and Idle Problems

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Comments

  • bagobonezbagobonez Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Honda CR-V had a problem with the engine dying, the problem became worse in severe heat. Took it to Honda, they said it was the Mass Relay that needed to be replaced. Had them replace it and haven't had a problem since. Total cost was only around $150 for parts and labor.
  • gingerw48gingerw48 Member Posts: 1
    Mine is a 99 and doing the same thing! Did you ever figure out what it was???
  • cr_v2000ownercr_v2000owner Member Posts: 1
    HI,
    I have a Honda CR-V EX 2000 with 135k mile. I had the timing belt changed a few days ago by a mechanic. After that. when I try to take turn and steering goes into lock position, the car stalls. Is there any relationship with timing belt?
    :mad:
  • donny1300donny1300 Member Posts: 7
    seem alot of problems with this dying while driving...get warm die but start back up...wtf this is driving me nutts....have changed fuel pump,fuel filter,dis. cap,rotor and coil still nothing has fixed this...any one fix this yet? next ignition mudule,adjust valves,crank sensor,coolant temp sensor...anyone figure this out yet??? any help would be awesome
  • donny1300donny1300 Member Posts: 7
    and did the ignition switch..even though the recall was done
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    edited April 2013
    My 1998 honda crv is doing the same thing-I already replaced the fuel filter-air filter-cap & rotor-pcv valve and cooling temperature sensor but it is still doing the same thing-The next thing im going to replace is the catalyct converter which costs $225. --If that dont fix it then im gonna check the idle air control valve,intake air temperature sensor and the fuel pump...eventually im going to replace the muffler and pipe since my catalyct converter will be new -
  • donny1300donny1300 Member Posts: 7
    cleaning my idle tonite...let me know if convertrt does it...valves..crank sensor... still things to try
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    Did you fix you honda, if so what did you have to replace to fix it--
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    edited April 2013
    I replaced the catalyct converter - It wanted to stall on the way to the muffler shop but on the way back it ran fine - no stalling yet - my Honda has 160,000 miles ... let me know if yours is fix and what you replaced ... im gonna test drive my car some more and ill let you know if anything changes ...
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    Hey, My car started to stall again so it wasnt the catalyct converter ... let me know if yours gets fixed .. im gonna check the fuel filter now ...
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    edited April 2013
    I just got the pressure on my fuel pump checked and it is working fine..my mechanic scanned my engine and code po108 showed up which is the map sensor..$65.00 at pep boys but i found it for $45.00 at auto tech in balwin park..when i replace it i will let u know if that was the problem..
  • donny1300donny1300 Member Posts: 7
    IMy dad talked to a guy....changed a part..the housing your dis.cap is connected to 3 bolts 1 connection elc.not sure what its called... sensors inside you can't fix...idle 4 hours in driveway drove 20 miles today no stall.. cleaned idle was dirty...very easy to do..20 mins... I have extra parts..that didnt fix if your problem is diff..can send u a picture of part I got if u want..i hope is it...
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    Hey, I bought the crankshaft sensor for my car but i havent replaced it yet due to the weather - Its is located next to the timing belt which has no distributor housing - The crankshaft sensor is located either in the distributor or in the crankshaft .. mine is in the crankshaft so i dont have to replace the whole distrubutor housing - I dont know why your cranksensor is in the disributor when mine is in the crankshaft since we both have the same year, make & model cars - I hope you car is still running fine and ill let you know if the crankshaft sensor was the problem in my car - Greetings from Los Angeles ...
  • donny1300donny1300 Member Posts: 7
    hello from twin cities,mn...mine is running like a champ...if you don't have a check engine light(like me)never said mine was crank sensor...6-7 hour of labor just to get to crank sensor...have to remove timing belt just to get to that...good luck with that ....i got my part at salvage yard for 113$...no light probly not a sensor!
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    Hey donny, I already replaced the crankshaft sensor but i read on the internet that if the crankshaft sensor is replaced that i also have to replace the distributor housing--When i first scanned my computor the only 2 codes i got was for the 02 sensor which i already replaced and PO715 which is the speed input sensor but the code for the distributor housing which has the cam sensor didnt show up--today im going to adjust the valves and go for a test drive--if it stalls again then im going to replace the disributor housing like you did and ill let you know if that fixed my problem - BTW - when you scanned your car did the code for the cam sensor in the distributor housing pop up - I tried to give you my phone number but the owner of this forum took it down - Thanks for the reply bro I really appreciate it ... P.S. my brother is a mechanic and he told me that he had replaced the distributor housing about 2 years ago which is why i never thought that could be the problem ... anyway i hope to hear from you soon ...
  • donny1300donny1300 Member Posts: 7
    hey whats up... I never got any code at all even when I had it hooked up and it stall with it hooked up still got nothing.. I was told that part is a common problem...good luck dude!
  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Member Posts: 8
    Hey whats up bro, Yeah I never got a code on that either and it is a common problem with these cars ... My brother replaced that distributor housing about 2 years ago and now i guess were gonna have to replace it again ... Thanks for your help bro .. now i know that part is gonna be the problem and i will let you know once i replace it ... Thanks again and it was nice working this out with you ...
  • schneidmschneidm Member Posts: 4
    Ok....so my 1999 CR-V wont start...well it is running now...but it wouldnt start before. Here's some back ground in case I can hit on a person with same problem.

    So last Summer, it was totally dying...loss of power....after about 20-30 minutes of summer driving in San Antonio Texas...ambient temp is 95 degrees. So basically, it was dying when HOT. It wasnt gradual. It was a sudden and total loss of power. 15-30 mins later....it would start again. So I went to the dealer and they knew NOTHING until an older experienced mechanic said it was the IGNITION RELAY which resides behind the glove box. So they replaced it for about $110 and the problem stopped. That was about 9-12 months ago.

    So I have this new relay now....and it has started doing something similar. Summer is upon us again and....while it has not died while I was driving...it did die on me at a traffic light....but it restarted immediately. However, yesterday while in my driveway....it refused to start...did not fire at all....turned over fine...but no fire. I also started to smell gas...so I assume it flooded. 24 hours later...in the morning...it started absolutely fine. This is a car that has been running beautifully for many months now.

    I have a theory. The day it refused to start, I had driven it fine in the morning...ambient temp was 75 degrees. later that day it refused to start when the ambient temp was 95 degrees. PLUS, I keep this BLACK car parked in the sun with its windows rolled up tight. The ambient temp in the cabin of the car was probably well over 100 degrees.

    My theory is that this ignition relay, which resides behind the glove box but within the cabin...fails when it is exposed to excessive heat. The heat can come from the surrounding cabin air temp...or it can be generated within the relay itself when the car is running...plus the problem is exacerbated by the Summer ambient air temp. Basically, I am thinking this Honda ignition relay is faulty by design....or some other part of the ignition system is sensitive to ambient air temperatures.

    So my attempted solution for now is to make sure I keep the windows partly down when the car is parked in the sun in order to keep cabin temps as low as possible.

    Anyone else have similar problem?
  • schneidmschneidm Member Posts: 4
    I want to add a little to my story above. Regarding this new relay I had installed....it did die on me once before during the Fall/Winter of 2012/13. I had let the car idle for about 30 minutes in my driveway....and it suddenly just died and would not restart. 12 hours later it started again no problem. My assumption is this ignition relay just got hot again while the car sat an idled for 30 minutes.
  • propwash49propwash49 Member Posts: 38
    You might want to check out your fuel pump relay. I've had two friends who had Accords, and they would stall out in the summer time when it got hot outside. Both problems were fixed immediately when they changed their fuel pump relays.

    The next time it won't start, turn it off and wait a few minutes. Then turn the ignition on, but DO NOT try to start the engine. Just turn the key so that the idiot lights illuminate. You should hear a momentary (2-3 second) buzzing sound coming from the rear of the car, in the area of the gas tank. This is the fuel pump running momentarily to pressurize the system. If you don't hear this (it may be necessary to open the tailgate and put your head near the floor, as close to the fuel tank as possible and let a friend turn the key so you can hear it better), you may need a new fuel pump relay. Good luck.
  • schneidmschneidm Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for that. Today the car went into total failure for first time. Would not start all day. It did occur to me that this could be a fuel pump problem. I'll do your test and then decide what's next.
  • schneidmschneidm Member Posts: 4
    More good info: Apparently the "ignition relay" I referenced above is realted to the fuel pump as well...so the same relaycould both inhibit a spark and stop fuel flow. see below...

    http://hondaprelude.danielcadams.com/how-to-replace-the-main-relay-in-a-honda-cr- -v/

    The Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) main relay in Honda CR-Vs manufactured between1997 and 2000 is located on the passenger's side behind the dashboard and glove box. This relay actually contains two relays within it--one that controls the power to the fuel injectors and a second relay that powers the fuel pump.
  • donny1300donny1300 Member Posts: 7
    Y you message me...not the same problem
  • ftstdnt_andmomftstdnt_andmom Member Posts: 1
    My car has 186000 miles on it. I've had it for 7 years and its been great up until about 6 months ago. It started with a strange jerking when I let off of the gas (I'm sure the people in traffic thought I was brake checking them) I took it in immediately and was told that the throttle position sensor (TPS) was bad and that I'd have to spend over a grand to replace the entire throttle body unit. I did some research and ordered the sensor to replace myself. It ran great for a couple of weeks and then started acting like its out of gas. The computer still gives a TPS error and I feel like if that's the case again that there HAS to be something else causing this problem. I've been driving it and just dealing with the weirdness because it only does it when it's trying to shift (sometimes if its having trouble shifting I can jiggle the gear shifter and it'll slip into gear) and most of my driving now is done on the interstate without traffic.
    The other night I opened my hood to after driving for only about 5 miles and it was so hot to the touch that I could barely touch the hood brace. My temperature gauge is consistent and has never gone hot.

    I'm wondering if anyone has some ideas as to what I should try that will actually fix my car. I was thinking about trying the ignition switch and maybe the temperature sensor but I'd like some opinions.

    Ps I have a friend with an '08 jeep compass that's doing the exact same things.
  • creativeknlcreativeknl Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new 2013 CRV last month, and it has stalled on me three times while driving, and when you turn air on stereo goes in and out. I took it to them scared wondering why a new car would do this. They are looking at it but now I don't even feel safe to drive it again. I wish they would offer something else reading to many bad things about the CRV..
  • andersson1andersson1 Member Posts: 1
    do anybody knows about honda crv 2001 i have problem with it
    sometimes while im driving in a stop sign or signal light the car turn off and in a minute or two start back on please if anybody knows
  • danbrewerdanbrewer Member Posts: 1
    Daughter had a issue with her 2003 Honda Accord. The engine would stall if either turn signal was turned on or if the brake pedal was pushed. Dealers and North American Honda said that they had never heard of this problem before. Dealer did a " computer update " and she still had the same problem. I made a road call from Jasper,Al to Lexington, Ky.. I replaced the "mult-function" switch, that turns on and dims headlights, and turn signals. ( 2 plastic covers, steering wheel does not have to be removed) I had a battery charger on the disconnected battery, while brother and I were replacing the switch... Battery would never go over 50% "charged"... Also, replaced battery. The old " mult-function" switch looked like it had fresh engine oil dripping out of it.. Daughter had been told that the ECM was bad and it would cost more than the car was worth..
  • nolanvoidnolanvoid Member Posts: 1
    Registered just to get in on the discussion. 
    Seems there are alot of issues I was unaware of prior to my purchase.
    2007 Honda CR-V. Odometer just over 100k when purchased from dealership. 48,000 mile extended warranty with purchase. 
    No issues on Test drive or commute home.
    It's been <-20°F here in ND the last few days. 
    Has started (after 5+ sec of cranking) and ideas just fine. 
    Left at 6:30AM for a trip to MN. 30 min into my journey with just a 10min warm up @ -29°F outside temp, and the vehicle stalled out on me  complete loss of power. Check engine, VSA and emergency lights iluminated. Pulled onto the shoulder and let vehicle idle. Raved vehicle up but it did not go above 3000RPM, my guess is a "governor feature" with what lights were on. Idled a bit longer and eventually turned vehicle off. Started up just fine but with check engine light on. Got going and about 5min later all three lights were on again. No complete loss, but vehicle coasted to stop. Again restated and began my trip. Last time it happened I attempted to pass a truck, all three iluminated, and at this time I noticed that if i masshed the accelorator and went over 3000RPM, it would stall and sputter out. This time I retained power, but pulled over anyways to restart and turn around. 
    On the way home I tested the acceleration, and got up to 80mph but as long as I didn't exceed the 3000RPM mark it was fine, even with all three lights on.  
    Will contact deal and repost results. 
    -NV
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Thanks for sharing this. Coming back to post results will help others I'm sure. Some pretty extreme conditions up there in ND!!
  • Joyce_777Joyce_777 Member Posts: 1

    Our 1999 Honda CRV is doing the same as everyone here.
    It has already had the ignition recall done.
    We got a new battery and that works fine.
    It’s Stalling while driving.

    At first it wouldn’t start at all n we got it towed home.
    We are retired and have No money to put it in a shop.

    We changed spark plugs which helped it to start but it was still stalling once in awhile. Always at the worst times.

    The air filter is clean.

    Because of the way it’s stalling my husband thinks changing the fuel filter won’t help it.

    At auto zone it shows the code for bad O2 Sensor so we waited to get money n bought one.
    Until we could get the sensor, A mechanic thought he would help by raising the idle for us to 2000 rpms which is a bit much n not sure it helped cuz it still stalled, but maybe not as much, except the AC is cooler when idling, LOL!

    The O2 sensor under the car n above the exhaust pipe wouldn’t come off at all n many men tried, but we had unplugged it.
    It stalls the same while unplugged.

    Then a video said they helped theirs by changing a sensor next to the battery, which my husband couldn’t get it off either and unplugged it also. Now instead of just stalling when it gets hot, now it also doesn’t want to start when it’s cold.
    It’s scary when stalling cuz we are on winding roads here and people go too fast.
    It doesn’t always stall but at times it will stall several times over n over.

    We found when we are on large inclines, sideways or anyway, it stalls.

    And when it wouldn’t start at all in a store parking lot after coming out of the store in the cold at night, he jiggled the shift handle and it caused it to start. Weird.

    He is going to plug the sensors back in since it didn’t make much difference and it seemed the one up top made it worse maybe but not at first.

    We also drove 40 miles to get real gasoline without ethanol twice since we were going that way anyways and filled up, but it didn’t make a difference.
    Fuel injectors?
    Gas pump?
    Still faulty ignition switch even after replaced?
    We just don’t want to put money into something that can’t be fixed or that nobody knows how to fix it.
    We don’t have any money to do that. It’s been a fantastic car n was said that they last till 5 hundred thousand miles. Ours is at 2 hundred thousand.
    We are debating on saving and buying a used vehicle but that would take at least a year to come up with just a small amount of money. Used cars aren’t $200.00 to $500.00 anymore and biblically it’s wrong to owe at interest with infidel bank systems.

    Why can you unplug sensors and the car still run if they need to be changed? Why change them if they don’t make much or any difference anyways?

    Are the sensors really necessary or just a way to make more money n make it more difficult to fix your own vehicles?

    Our vehicles in our past were always pretty easy to fix n to know what was wrong with them.

    We may have to take it to a mechanic but they charge an arm n leg 🦵 to just check it on their fancy machine. N we don’t want to keep paying 🤑 money we don’t have to keep the same problem.

    Has anyone fixed theirs yet? Has anyone figured it out on what is going on?
    This stalling problem started with our 1999 Honda CRV with us 10/2022 and it’s dangerous.

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,745
    If you cannot afford a good shop and technician to test and prove what is wrong, how can you afford to toss random parts at this?

    Cranking the idle speed up to 2000 rpm to try and prevent stalling is not something that a good technician would do.

    There are tools that assist a technician with diagnostics, but the tool doesn't diagnose the car, the technician does. When a car stalls while driving the first question to ask is "Am I losing spark, fuel, or both?" Testing needs to be set up to get the answer to that first question. Depending on how well equipped a shop/technician is, he/she could simultaneously be watching critical inputs to the engine controller that are responsible for getting the spark and fuel injection outputs. I would also be monitoring the fuel pressure with a mechanical gage attached to the fuel supply system. Then depending on what is found with that step, the testing shifts to proving why. It's disciplined, methodical, repeatable and when you are paying a shop for doing this level of testing you are in effect thanking them for having worked and studied harder that the average shop, on top of them also investing in the tools that allow them to do this.

    When this stalls, does it start right back up again? If not, how long does it take to fire back up?
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