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Mazda5 Tires & Wheels

124

Comments

  • ananasananas Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 07 after they rotated and balanced my tires. Went back couple of times where they balanced them again but this never fixed the problem. Uneven wear was mentioned but I only had 14000 miles on the car. Went to a private shop, they said there was nothing wrong with the tires. They found a bulletin that suggested engine mounts was the solution for the vibration. Went to the dealership with it and they said they never have seen one or have anyone had that problem. They put in the engine mounts which didn't take care of the vibration only changed it up a little bit after they played with the tires - again! The master technician said if I keep on being unhappy with the fix he'll be in trouble as of not being able to fix it. That was a surprising comment. I've lived with the vibration since cause I got tired of running to the dealership for nothing. Now my warranty has expired and issues w suspension are climbing up so I guess my only rescue is to try to get rid of my car eventually. Too bad...without all these challenges it would be a nice car. :sick:
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    As so many people have pointed out already, the original Mazda 5 tires are garbage. Our fronts were done in just over 18k miles on our '06. I've been replacing the Toyos with Kuohmos without any real improvement. There is no way any vehicle should be using tires that fast. In terms of the eco-system, this is a horrible design. Not to mention that we've got to pay for new tires every 20k.

    I've been trying to find a solution ever since I paid for the first replacement tires. The dealership told me that there were no smaller rim options to be had. I can't wait to correct him on that.

    My question is does tire wear improve with the smaller rims? If so, how much?

    Thanks in advance.
  • hatemazda5hatemazda5 Member Posts: 3
    Guess what, I did throw away the original rims and all the crappy tires and brought a whole new set of rims and tires from Tiredirect.com. After drove about 10K the same problem happening again. So I wrote a complaint letter to MazdaUSA and they did responded my letter in 3 days...and they told me they will sent me to the local dealership and they should taking care of me....they sounds pretty promising. Even this was my 5th times to look into the same problem since the 1st year I brought it in 07. But I thought they got enough complaints and know how to fix me this time. When I did shown up at the dealership but they made me to paid $100 for disgnosis fee but I told the service guy this was my 5th time to look at the same problem and I was send by MazdaUSA . I end it up agree to pay for the fee and hope for the best this time. Guess what, it took them almost a whole day and end up told me the stories that they couldn't find anything wrong. I felt so stupid why I would trust MazdaUSA and even paid $100 to the stupid dealership. Trust me I'm looking to get rid of it and will tell all my friends not to BUY MAZDA 'coz it SUCK!!!
  • melaniemelanie Member Posts: 2
    We are sorry to hear about your experience with your Dealer not being able to help you. We do have a Dealer Ratings and Reviews section if you would like to post a review of this dealer. I have provided a link for you. http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/drr/jump.html
  • speddyspeddy Member Posts: 16
    Well we bought new tires about two weeks ago for our 08 mazda 5. We got Goodyear comfort tred touring tires. $$$$$ :cry: almost $800! But all of our vibration and tire noise is gone!!!! :) I hope it stays that way! Very happy with the new tires so far except for the price, but I guess that's the price I pay for low profile tires. (which I don't really want)
  • jarek67jarek67 Member Posts: 2
    I own a Mazda 5 for 6 months and I have had to replace shocks twice now. The car also has a noise in the back. After inspecting the shocks I found one was leaking. When I took it to the dealer they told me the shocks looks good. After I insisted that they look with me they agreed to replace the shock under warranty. I was made to feel like they were doing me a favor. The noise stiil exists and they are blaming the tires. The tires are worn off unevenly. 35000 miles on the car
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    WOW! How do you get 35k in 6 mo? Anyway,
    I've been saying for some time that the shocks the factory puts on the 5 are up to the challenge. I would recommend anybody that likes the car and intends to keep it to go and get some top of the line shocks. I bought the car fully aware of the issue.
    The tires quality has been blamed many times on this forum for a lot of things and there are reports that new tires from a different manufacturer took care of the problems. At 35k it's time for new rubber. It is irrelevant now if the shocks killed your tires, or the tires were cheap to begin with.
    I have my 5 for 16 mo now and it has 15k. The tires are at 50%. We drive it hard (when we do), loaded up and fast, so I'm not complaining, again, I anticipated the problem.
    Sorry for the dealer experience. I've found the same attitude with other brands, too. It's a systemic problem.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,934
    edited March 2011
    yup. Like I've reported here, too, aftermarket shocks and good tires fix these problems. Having the dealership replace under warranty only guarantees the problem will return.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jarek67jarek67 Member Posts: 2
    I am sorry that I didn't mention that I bought the car used with 26000 miles. Could you tell me the brand and where you got the shocks? I wonder if you know if I can change the tires to a different size? Do the rims need to be changed with new size tires? Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,934
    You can change tire size slightly without changing the wheels. I know from experience, however, that there is very little room to play with. At one point, I put a set of 225/55 tires I had leftover from another vehicle and they rubbed. So I don't suggest pushing it past 215/50.

    I had managed to come across a good deal on a new set of Kumho KH25s on Ebay. 205/50/17 for, I believe, around $265. This was back in the Fall.

    For the shocks, I picked up a set of Monroe (part number 5607). They don't show as being compatible with anything past 2008, but I can assure you they work. The suspension did not change between '08 and '09 or even 2010.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • davec15davec15 Member Posts: 2
    We live in upstate NY...we have a 2008 Mazda5 with 50,000 miles on it, and love it except for the unexpected yearly tire expenses. In the 3 years we have had it, we have had to put 8 new tires on it...ie, we are getting about a year on them....which is only about 16,000 miles each. The first set were the Toyos that came with it, annd then we went to Hankook, as suggested by the dealer for increased tread wear...and while better, it's hardly what i'd consider acceptable. My wife drives it primarily with our two kids...so we are not whipping around in it. We did, by the wa, purchase snow tires, which do make a big difference in the winter...and i was hoping would also help to extend the life of the non-winter tires....but no significant difference there.

    What can I do? Tires suggestions? Any other suggestions? This is really getting to be frustrating and difficult to afford. Any help would be appreciated.
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    First off neither of those companies makes a decent tire. If you don't want to keep doing this AND you don't want to do any suspension work (where the problem is) go to Tirerack.com and find the HARDEST, longest wear rated tire you can and hope for the best. It will probably be a Michelin.

    The REAL solution is to figure out HOW tghe tires are wearing and then what part of the suspension is causing the problem. It isn't like the car is so heavy you can't get a tire to hold up and even if you were throwing the car around there ae tires that would take that.

    I have changed all the suspension and haven't had tire wear issues - fortunately and I do drive a bit aggressively in corners. It is WAY fun now!

    Among other things you probably have camber issues.

    Good luck,

    Larry
    2008, 5
  • davec15davec15 Member Posts: 2
    Larry - was this in response to my post inquiring about better lasting tires for our mazda5? If so, do you know much about the Kumho Ecsta LX Platinum(Grand Touring All-Season)? I found in on tire rack...600 A A, for $110 each.
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    Yes, my reply was to your post. I am not a big fan of Kumho however, the 600 is a good number but, remember the manufacturer assigns its own numbers. See how they get reviewed.

    What is the dealer telling you why the tires aren't lasting? And how are they wearing? Is it front AND rears?

    Good luck,

    Larry
  • mcharlezmcharlez Member Posts: 1
    Mazda 5s need adjustable camber kits in the back.

    My car is still under warranty and have raised quited the stink about how the tires were cupping severely after 40,000 km even after rotating them.
    Car was driving loudly and there was a "thump, thumping" in the back.
    Took it into the dealership and they said it needed new tires due to cupping. They said it needed an alignment, but that one had just been done.
    They wanted me to buy new tires even though the alignment was off. That didn't make sense to me, seeing how the problem would just occur again. That sense of illogical thinking sent me online to research the car and the alignment problems. I called the dealership on this strange line of thinking and they told me that they they have been researching solutions about this for some time and a lot of people are having problems. Well, why didn't they tell me about this? They said that there was a "non-Mazda" part (adjustable camber kit) that would fix the problem and that it would cost me $600.
    NO WAY was I going to pay for something Mazda should be addressing and fixing.

    After a week of waiting, the dealership said they would fix it under warranty by putting in a new right adjustable camber kit and aligning it 2 times to get the numbers right.

    I do still have to buy new tires, so in the same situation as you are, but the even sadder thing is there a lot of Mazda owners out there that this will happen to and won't know what to do.

    Get it fixed, under warranty and raise a fuss!
    Mazda Canada should step up and recall their cars to fix them.
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    You mention that you "changed all the suspension." Was there any one or two components that seemed to produce the best tire wear results?

    Our front tires wear quite fast which makes sense since all the weight is over the front tires. However, the wear is even.

    Currently we're running Kumho Ecsta ASXs. We might actually get around 20k or 25k out of these.

    It still sucks as far as I'm concerned. With our other vehicles (2000 Tracker and a very disappointing '98 Malibu) we were getting >50k out of a set of tires.

    We dumped the piece-of-trash Malibu for the Mazda. Except for the tire wear issue, it's been a big improvement.
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    There has been a LOT of posting on here about each persons particular problem with tire wear. The one thread that caught my attention is that if the frame wasn't put together perfectly straight then it really opens a can of worms on trying to get the tires aligned.

    In the rear, as the one post infers, there is only one alignment parameter that can be addressed by the dealership and I believe that is toe. If one needs/wants to address camber than yes, it is an aftermarket product that needs to be installed. $600.00 is OUTRAGEOUS! That is simply theft.

    My friend and I did it in a VERY cramped work space with ice dripping on us without all the tools we needed in an afternoon. There is one bolt that Mazda installed that is too long that was a pain in the tush to get out and back in (I would have changed it except we were running out of time).

    Doing one side also shows the complete ignorance of the Mazda dealer network. Both might as well be done at the same time. Also I would NOT install "factory" quality bushings of those camber adjusters. The factory quality rubber in Mazda bushings is JUNK. Go with the nylon/neoprene and find a COMPETENT shop to do the work.

    As far as front wear. That does get a bit pricer however if they can't get the front end aligned (ask for and GET the print outs and then take them to someone who can read) there are "race" camber adjusters (top shock mounts) made in either Austrailia or New Zealand. When I was looking I wasn't aware of any made in Europe or North America - that may have changed.

    I wasn't having tire wear issues and, didn't want any, so I got proactive and started chaning things out before that ball got rolling.

    The bottom line gets to: how long are you going to keep the vehicle and what are the tires costing you? What is the cost effective path to follow?

    I will say again, with the lower springs, Koni shocks, new bushings and better tires this things is just a hoot to drive. My wife wasn't wild about getting on and off freeways! Until............... she took the car in for the A/C repair and she got a chance to do some on ramp driving and now she is thrilled as well.

    Ultimately you will probaly have to leave the very friendly and professional Mazda dealerships for service people who actually know and understand how to REPAIR a car, the dealerships ( I've used 2 now) are clueless.

    Larry
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    Sorry I missed a couple of your points.

    No, I didn't notice any more difference from one piece or the other on tire wear. And no again, on fronts wearing faster...... there isn't that much weight up front to cause that much UNDUE tire wear.

    The mileage you are getting is typical of the problem chassis and it is TOTALLY unacceptable.
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    I agree. The vehicle really is fun to drive. My only complaint has been the tire wear.

    Thank you very much for a very thorough, informative response.
  • billy00billy00 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem I have a 2010 Mazda 5 and the tire wear is horrible. Just to be clear it does not matter what tire rim or anything you do. There is a problem with the way the suspension is on the car and Mazda is not addressing it yet. Basically by what I was told they do not have enough complaints yet to warrant a recall and when they get information from the dealerships they are being told there is nothing wrong with the shocks or the alignments on the cars by the dealers. So if we want this fixed its going to take all of us going into Mazda dealers to show them the problem and filing complaints with Mazda. This does need to be addressed and fixed because theres no reason tires should have to be replaced this often on any vehicle. They need to upgrade the shocks and suspension or something because if you look at your rear tires I will be willing to bet they bow out slightly at the bottom and don't sit on the car straight. At least mine do and that would mean the shocks and suspension is the problem. I personally will not stop calling Mazda until this issue is addressed.
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    edited August 2011
    Knock your socks off........ how many tires you want to ruin in the mean time?

    If you are indeed wearing the insides (probably) or the outsides of the rear tires off then it is indeed a camber problem. I am ancient, so I already forget the price but, you can get a pair of ADJUSTABLE rear camber arms (I think for well less than $100.00) and SOLVE the problem (Mazda's possible legal repsonsibility not withstanding).

    Somewhere on one of these threads is my Cliff notes version on how to do it. With the exception of one bolt that is too long and needs replaced it is no big deal. You all but only need a 14 and 17MM wrench and socket (with handle). And no, I didn't drop the "axle" (it isn't really an axle by any stretch). Loosened some bolts and all but forced the long bolt past its obstruction.

    Good luck with Mazda!

    Larry
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,934
    edited August 2011
    I had posted a link somewhere on edmunds here to those adjustable arms, too. SPC makes them. First place that came up in my 20-second search just now has them for $100 each side. I'm sure a more extensive search will turn them up for cheaper.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    I wonder if there is some frame deforming happening after some use...
    Anyway, I wanted to chip in and say that must not be the only fix needed. Tires wear out uniformly for some folks. For me it looked like that although I saw extensive wear inside on one tire. We have 24 k miles and tires will probably not reach 30k.
    When the vehicle moves up and down, the wheels move sideways, in and out. On a McPherson there is some camber oscillation, too.
    The new 2011 model has re-tuned suspension, to reduce lateral movement of passengers... blah blah blah. I wonder if the older (like the 2010 I have) suspension allows for too much travel and the tires become pencil erasers on the road, constantly moving in and out, just a little more than other vehicles on the road. If that is the case, it is design issue with the angle and length of components. It is un-fixable - not completely, anyway.
    Swapping for "better" shocks is a patch in trying to arrest slight movements.
    What is a "better" shock for this car? Really - Stiffer? Softer? What am I looking for, here?
    Different springs looks like a more direct approach that Mazda is taking, too. This is an issue I am afraid to tackle, though. If I pick the wrong spring, the car will be off the road in sticky situation like a fast bumpy turn.
    Maybe we can get 2011 springs and put them on our clunkers :) Mazda already did the math. I heard the 2011 models are not "as fun anymore" (Edmunds review)....
    So, shocks suggestions anyone? and why you chose a particular one? And for how long have you been using them and do you see improvements?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,934
    When the vehicle moves up and down, the wheels move sideways, in and out.

    Not completely sure what you mean. When suspension goes up and down, yes, you will see more negative camber on the compression stroke and less when extending. It is the nature of independent suspension.

    It can get slightly worse as springs get tired and start sagging. It is possible the springs are too soft, but I really doubt it, not on a vehicle that handles as well as the mazda5 does.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    What I mean is that the lower arm si connected to the frame and the moving end, at the wheel describes an arc, the arm itself being the radius. That brings the wheel in and out.
    The nature of the springs was just a speculation. This car does lean in turns (I love it). I mean how else would Mazda re-tune the suspension in the new model? Oh, wait, sway bars? Hmmmm.

    So the camber issue is crystal clear. I bought the car fully aware of the issue and I tell everyone buying it to allow for it or budget for the fix.
    But what causes the entire uniform early wear?
    Shocks picks please!
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    You may want to do a LOT, as in a LOT, of research on just plain ol suspension geometry before you go down this rabbit hole. A number of your premises aren't really valid.......

    I can't imagine the frame moving AFTER it leaves the factory unless it hits something. That the frame left the factory not straight I can imagine. Based on my research and, for the most part personal experience, there is NO suspension part on the 5 that can't be upgraded - it all exists somewhere and for a price.

    H&R springs aren't too badly priced and will lower the car about .75" which I think makes it look a LOT better. A number of people have suggested that with the stiffer springs and stock shocks the rebound is too much. The only shock *I* found that was engineered for a lowered ride height is the Koni Sport (yellows). I have found the combination FANTASTIC (along with the better tires) The Yellows are also "adjustable". I like a firm ride - some don't. Koni shocks are not cheap! ALL of the suspension bushings are available in something other than rubber (firmer/stiffer). I also like what that did to the ride.

    With enough knowledge, money and in the right hands, non-normal tire wear CAN be eliminated. I've upgraded a number of suspensions primarily on VW's and none of those handled as well as this 08 5 does right now.

    There are people auto-crossing 5's.

    Good luck!
    Larry
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    I missed a number of your questions - sorry, I'll try again.

    Swapping for "better" shocks is a patch in trying to arrest slight movements.

    If you want to arrest movement you are looking at stiffer springs. Stiffer shocks would be second. You can crank the Koni's up pretty good.

    What is a "better" shock for this car? Really - Stiffer? Softer?

    In practically everyone's mind it would be stiffer. Predicated on your thesis you would also want stiffer.

    What am I looking for, here?

    You tell us!

    Different springs looks like a more direct approach that Mazda is taking, too. This is an issue I am afraid to tackle, though. If I pick the wrong spring, the car will be off the road in sticky situation like a fast bumpy turn.

    How stiff a spring are you going to? Nothing that is engineered for the 5 and readily available is going to get into those kinds of terrirtories. How fast do you want to be travelling? I mean for that kind of event you'd be doing something like 55 or better (miles not kilometers per hour) on tight off ramps.

    Maybe we can get 2011 springs and put them on our clunkers Mazda already did the math.

    So has H&R, Eiback (affordable) and the Japanese after market - those are WAY expensive)

    I heard the 2011 models are not "as fun anymore" (Edmunds review)....
    So, shocks suggestions anyone? and why you chose a particular one? And for how long have you been using them and do you see improvements?

    If you want REAL improvement it is Koni. I've been using them for a month or so and noticed HUGE improvements. I chose them because they are the best....... and about the only engineered shock for lowered 5's.

    Larry
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    Thank you for your replies!
    I'll look at Koni. I am not interested in lowering the car. It is low enough for what we do it. I do not want to stiffen or soften the ride either, at least I have to be honest and say I don't know that I do.
    Why did you change the bushings? Other then the rear stabilizer bar (I thigk) sqeaking issue, I didn't think there was an issue.
    Thanks!
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    Yes, the squeaking noise was indeed a lot of the motivation. Not knowing WHICH busing was/would squeak I said to hell with it and did all of them. They are all rubber and as far as *I* am concerned all junk. Beyond that I have not read the definitive answer to why all of these tire problems and I wanted to preclude some of that as well.

    Once under there and tearing things apart its just as easy to do them all at the same time.

    Larry
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    To all Bridgestone G 019 owners -
    How has it been so far? How is the wear?

    I am about to do the same thing.
  • brian196brian196 Member Posts: 2
  • brian196brian196 Member Posts: 2
    Can someone please let me know if cupping on the inside of my rear tires would be an Alignment issue or a Balancing issue?
    I had an alignment done on the car approx. 6mths ago and the tech said that the car was set to factory standards but when I got the car back I noticed when driving on a straight road the wheel was slightly off center. I took the car back to the dealer, they put the car on the rack and said that the alignment was dead on.
    Now 6 mths later I am noticing cupping on the inside of the rear tires and a slight vibration at approx. 80km/hr and the vibration goes away as soon as I hit 100 km/hr.
    I now have 25,000 km on the car.
    Can someone tell me if this would be the dealers responsibility and what the best possibile repair would be?
  • capriracercapriracer Member Posts: 907
    edited April 2012
    Both mis-alignment and im-balancing can lead to "cupping". The problem is that people use the word "cupping" rather indiscriminantly. Technically, cupping is ONLY the result of im-balance, and alignment causes diagonal wear (and what precedes it - heel and toe, feather edge, etc), but it is very difficult to tell the difference between the 2.

    So you now have a vibration. Did you rotate tires? You are supposed to.

    Plus, the alignment specs for a Mazda 5 include quite a bit of camber - and that tends to wear tires irregularly. What your alignment tech should do is take out as much camber as he can.
  • 412scott412scott Member Posts: 3
    OK - looking for a new set of all weather tires to put on my 2010 Mazda 5...consensus here from last summer is that it doesn't really matter too much since this car will wear out whatever...did the Kumho's last?
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    They've lasted over 30k for me so far and now need replacement. Sorry I can't give a more exact number, but some tires previous to these lasted only 15k and just over 20k. I guess the years of 50k and 60k tires are done.

    I need to talk to my mechanic again re tires. He had some tires I'm going to try when I replace the Kumho's. Consumer's Reports also had ratings on tires that are worthwhile.

    One thing my mechanic mentioned is it's really important to rotate these low-profile tires every 3k to 4k miles. I can't say I've been that good about doing it.

    If I remember, I'll follow up here with more info from those two sources.
  • momsmazda5momsmazda5 Member Posts: 3
    I bought my car July 2010, the car had 36 miles on it. Replaced the tires after 23k miles which I understand is pretty much what everybody else is doing on here.

    Went to tire dealer & put a 40k mileage set of tires on car June 2011. I've been rotating religiously, I go in June 2012 to have them rotated, I admit I am over the recommended mileage but hey I got it in there. The tire guy proceeds to tell me I need a new set exactly to the yr & onlu 23K miles on tires, ugh. He couldn't rotate said there was wear on the insides of the tires. :(

    Am I to understand that I am going to have to replace my tires at a $585 cost (included the alignment) every year????!!?!?!?!?! This is ridiculous, is Mazda aware of this problem? Is there something wrong with my car? What can I do to get more mileage from my tires? (Newby here, haven't read all 19 pages of suggestions/complaints. This is insane!!!) I love my car & it's perfect for my family, but I have expenses & tires every yr isn't one of them!!!! :(:(:(
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    @momsmazda5: Sounds like you might have some suspension issues. I suggest taking the time to read through all the messages here. There is some good info to be found. But I had the same experience with our 2006. The Mazda dealership acted like it was a big surprise. Then I found this forum.

    It's discouraging since the vehicle is built pretty well. CU Reports gives the Mazda 5 high ratings.

    Last tires on our 2006 were Kumho. I was replacing tires 2 at a time. I actually got close to 30k maybe 35k on the first pair, but one of the second pair developed a bulge on the sidewall so I had to replace all four. I put on Hankooks this time. I guess they're rated at 40k.

    My mechanic told me the only way to deal with these low profile tires is to rotate them religiously. He recommended I rotate them every oil change. So that's what I'm going to try. Typically I change oil every 4k to 6k. I run synthetic so I stretch it a bit.
  • tgallegostgallegos Member Posts: 2
    I've replaced tires twice since buying the car 2 years ago. I replaced a wheel last year because it was bent. Currently, there are 17" tires on the car and the tire shop I went to is saying I need to put 16" tires on it (but they don't know if they'll fit) and new wheels because I have 2 more bent wheels. I have a lot of shaking when going between 50 & 60 mph.

    I know nothing about cars. I got talked into spending $1,000 on new tires last winter because the guy said they would last a long time. The nylon chord is actually coming out of one of the tires after 35, 000 miles. I am wondering if someone will tell me what to do here. Will 16" wheels and tires be the end of my woes? (The tire salesmen said they are more durable.) Or do I just put 17" on again - and pay more - again. Or do I get rid of this car? p.s. the gas mileage isn't anywhere near what the dealership said it was going to be.
  • nahag1nahag1 Member Posts: 10
    If you don't mind the change in the look of the car, then by all means, go with the 16", with a higher profile tire. The tires will still last between 30 and 40,000 miles, but at least it won't be as expensive to change either tire or wheels. Keep in mind that you will also need to transfer the air pressure sensors that are installed on the original wheels.
    Good luck
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    Low profile tires suck. Period. You pay as much or more than conventional tires and get half the wear (if you're lucky) and are more likely to suffer damage to the rim from pot holes, etc.

    I looked into replacing my Mazda 5's tires right after I replaced my second set within 18k. That's how I became involved with this thread.

    It seems to me someone in this thread did find a way to replace the low profile with standard tires by swapping out the 17in rims with 16in or 15in (can't remember for sure). This was posted a year or more ago.

    I think there was discussion about getting the rims from another Mazda model. BUT there was a concern about handling once you put tires with higher side walls on.

    Here's a comment I had made in an earlier message.

    " Last tires on our 2006 were Kumho. I was replacing tires 2 at a time. I actually got close to 30k maybe 35k on the first pair, but one of the second pair developed a bulge on the sidewall so I had to replace all four. I put on Hankooks this time. I guess they're rated at 40k.

    "My mechanic told me the only way to deal with these low profile tires is to rotate them religiously. He recommended I rotate them every oil change. So that's what I'm going to try. Typically I change oil every 4k to 6k. I run synthetic so I stretch it a bit"

    All I can suggest is to look back through this thread.

    Here are some messages I was involved with.

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f3660/154!keywords=#MSG154

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f3660/168!keywords=#MSG168

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f3660/171!keywords=#MSG171

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f3660/187!keywords=#MSG187

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f3660/189!keywords=#MSG189
  • tgallegostgallegos Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. Does anyone know if Mazda offered the option of 16" tires on the 2010 Mazda 5? I would hesitate to change the size if it wasn't offered as an option. The tire guy thought "it would work" but couldn't give me a definitive answser.
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    Again, my memory about this might not be accurate. When this was discussed re the 2006 model, no such option was available. That's why it was a such a frustration and one would have to resort to scavenging rims from another model.

    I don't know about more current model years. I guess you'd have to contact the dealer or check out the after-market sources.
  • davichodavicho Member Posts: 190
    Look for a used set of 16" wheels from a 2012+ newer Mazda5 that come standard on the Sport models.

    Wheel link
  • momsmazda5momsmazda5 Member Posts: 3
    Update it is now Aug 2013 and I have put another set of tires on my car in October but in June exactly a year after I purchased my 2nd set of tires the car rotate guy said I needed another set and wouldn't rotate them. I put it off till October to buy another set put a Firestone 50k tire on it with a warranty, been rotating these so we shall see. I did however go in for a rotation and the guy said my fronts had more wear than the backs. I didn't need an alignment when I put them on originally but I could need one now. Will have that checked.
  • momsmazda5momsmazda5 Member Posts: 3
    edited August 2013
    Can someone tell me the difference between my 2010 Mazda5 Sport and the 2013 Mazda5? I read that they redesigned the Mazda5 in 2012 but I would like to know what exactly was redesigned besides the body?

    Did they change the suspension? Has the MPG improved? Did they change tire size? How about that weird noise I hear when backing up or that boing sound my car makes (seems to be of no surprise to the Dealership when I mention it) as I make sharp turns, note this is nothing new I have heard this sound since I bought the car new. Not always though. I just want to know is it worth purchasing a newer model if nothing really has changed.
  • cem2cem2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 mazda5 that has been a wheel and tire nightmare. Replaced shocks, now they say I need struts. I am fed up and getting rid of it. Love everything else about the car (okay - the headlights stink too). Do you happen to know if there are any newer models that had addressed this suspension-wheel-tire issue and if so what years? Thank you!
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    I'm not at all familiar with the record of the 2009 Mazda 5. Our 2006 has been great except for the tire-wear problem. That problem, however, now seems to be minimized substantially by having the tires rotated at every oil change (which for me is every 4-6k; I use a synthetic blend). We're currently running a set of Hankooks. Rf earlier msg [ http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f3660/189#MSG189 ]

    We, however, were never advised by the dealer to replace shocks or struts. My personal impression is the dealer's mechanics might have been guessing at your problem. I know it's not fair to second guess the mechanic, but I've done enough car repairs to know sometimes things are not what they seem.

    All I personally can recommend is considering the possibility you might have a lemon. I know that certainly is no comfort at all. I hope someone else reads your question and has a solution to offer.

    If you have a lemon, sometimes a dealer can get some support from the manufacturer. Sometimes. I have a friend who had a really, really bad experience with GM. He created enough of an issue re his problem he received a new transmission only to have that one fail prematurely. BTW, now he and his wife drive a Kia and a Nissan.

    On a side note, I've consulted Consumer Reports whenever I purchase a vehicle. It's worked well for me. So I would recommend checking out their rating for the '09 Mazda 5. If they show suspension as a weakness for that model, it might help build a case re the "lemon" status I mentioned.

    Otherwise, I strongly recommend you avoid any make/model that uses low-profile tires. They might look cool, but they suck re durability.

    Good luck.
  • bikeopelibikeopeli Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2013
    I've owned a 2006 Mazda 5 Sport for 4 years now and we put about 30,000 miles on it each year. I have put new struts and shocks on it once in those 4 years and put a new set of tires on it about every 12 months and that is actually to be expected. You can get the best mileage from your tires if you rotate them with each oil change but the 17" low profile tires will wear out completely in 25K -30K miles even if you treat them nice. Here's the thing, the Mazda 5 is a fairly tall vehicle with extremely stiff (sporty) suspension and I love the way it drives, however there is no give anywhere not even in the sidewall of the tire so the only lateral give is when cornering is when the tread scrubs on the tire. It's not so much poor design as pure physics, tall vehicle+super stiff suspension+soft squishy tire at the end of the lever and the tire takes all the load. If you want a very sporty but very roomy little people hauler it's great but if you drive it aggressively at all or even if you don't you will wear out tires in what seems like a short time. Although in my case 30,000 is actually reasonably normal. Just don't spend a ton on expensive tires shop for good deals at TireRack or places like that and expect to put tires on it every 25-30K miles, maybe less if you drive like an Andretti, which is easy to do with the way this thing handles. As a side note I'm about to put 16" wheels on mine from a similar year Mazda 3 and winter tires. I'll let you know how that turns out.
  • gnuguygnuguy Member Posts: 9
    @bikeopeli: That's an excellent analysis of why the Mazda 5 (or any other vehicle's) low-profile tires wear out quickly. Thank you.

    Since I've started rotating at every oil change, I'm also getting around 30k on a set of tires. When we first started driving the 5, we got something like 15k. And we weren't driving like Andretti. BUT I must say the vehicle certainly makes you feel like you could. Tight and responsive. Gotta love it.

    Please let us know what your experience is with the 16" rims. Someone also suggested using some Mazda 3 14" (I think) rims. No doubt a person has to give up the tight feel due to higher sidewalls, but maybe a person could get closer to the old-style mileage of 50-60k.
  • jonat1xjonat1x Member Posts: 34
    edited March 2014

    I've just replaced a set of Goodyear Eagle RS-A's after 54,000 miles. They would have been good for a little bit longer but I damaged one in a pothole so decided to put on a new set. When I bought them I did quite a bit of research into finding something quiet, and they were an improvement over the OEM tires.

    This time around I did some more research and ended up buying a set of Milestar MS932's and I'm really astonished at how much quieter the car is riding. I'll post in due course about how they seem to wear.

    My baby is 2008 Mazda5 Touring.

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