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Thank you,
Belinda
Thank you,
Belinda
Thank you,
Belinda
Thank you,
Belinda
Thank you,
Belinda
Thank you,
Belinda
"..all needed to be replaced.."
ODO mileage..?
"...my concern is that it will happen again and again.."
Your concern is warranted, IT WILL...!!
But only every 30,000 to 80,000 miles.
~30,000 if the clutch is put to severe use, lots of 4WD mode use, especially if that sometimes involves unwarranted, inadvertent, use on tractive conditions.
~50,000 if you must endure winters in say, Cut bank MT.
~80,000 if the 4WD mode is rarely used, say use in the Seattle area and ONLY when warranted.
Even less than 30,000 if 4X4 mode is often used, NEEDED for use, regardless of conditions.
Yes, no doubt.
My judgment is that these days very few buyers, the majority actually, of true 4X4 vehicle owners have a good understanding of just what the "PART-TIME" descriptive words truly mean. This "pool" of knowledge has been contaminated, HIGHLY contaminated, by the unwarranted use of the 4WD term when what the vehicle really, ACTUALLY, is, is a R/awd or a patently UNSAFE F/awd system. Basically an AUTOMATIC "AWD" system, or even worse an AWD system which must be "enabled" by the driver.
In the normal sense a driver enabled "AWD" system would be a good thing, but in this case that only leads to the confusion between enabling an "AWD" system vs switching a "part-time" 4WD system "on".
Confusion between the 2 can easily lead to inadvertent, IMPROPER, engagement of part-time 4WD systems wherein damage to the drive train might be the direct result, SOON.
Obviously the dealers, and most especially the dealer salespersons, are of NO HELP. Dealer sales and therefore profits are dependent on the cloud of confusion remaining as to what constitutes a true 4WD system, "PART-TIME" 4WD system, vs one of these mostly nonfunctional and patently unsafe (in actual adverse roadbed conditions) F/awd systems.
How many buyers today purchase one of these patently UNSAFE F/awd vehicles thinking they are getting adverse roadbed performance equivalent to an actual 4WD system..?
The cheapest (temporary, or permanent, but not guaranteed to work given what we know so far over the internet) fix would be to simply flush the old fluid out by gravity syphoning the old fluid out and bleed the air out after adding new fluid. The service manual and a friend can help you with this procedure. It is exactly like bleeding air from a wheel cylinder on your brakes only simpler as there is just the one slave cylinder to deal with.
It is surprising you had success with the first pumping after the one month sit. I do suspect a bad seal. (dried out and prematurely failed due to the one month sit). So with this in mind, you probably need a new slave cylinder or internal kit. Not expensive. If you add fluid now, it may pump again enough to get you to the garage without a tow if you don't want to tackle this relatively easy job yourself. I say that, not being sure how hard the slave cylinder is to get at on your truck.
Sam
Thanks again, your help is greatly appreciated
Sam
I forgot to Google, but you should be able to. I would start by Googling:
- online shop manual for 2007 Tacoma
- 2007 Tacoma diagram of clutch slave cylinder
- 2007 Tacoma forums - help with clutch slave cylinder diagnosing/replacement
- etc
I did find this link that will help you understand how they work and it has some pics.
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Clutch_Linkage_Installation_Tips.pdf
Sam
Sam
Is there a chance that when the first clutch was replaced your Tacoma is now always running with the center diff'l locked. Wheel "hop", tire scrubbing in low speed turns...?
The problem with the Tacoma clutches is now VERY WELL ESTABLISHED. It is a product vendor named LUK. They manufacture SOME of the clutches. Their factory is in Mexico.
In 100% of the cases of clutch slipping, breaking, chattering, or blowing out, the EXISTING clutch is found to be a LUK clutch. When replaced with a high quality JAPANESE MADE AISIN CLUTCH, the problems are corrected PERMANENTLY, or at least for the reasonable lifespan of a clutch, i.e. 100000+ miles.
Despite being through several product revisions, the LUK clutch supplier continues to produce a shoddy product, which is why most of the clutch-related TSB's indicated to replace both the disk and pressure plate with AISIN. Once this is done, there will be no more problems.
The current part numbers for the 4-cyl trucks are 31210-26172 for the pressure plate and 31250-60500 for the clutch disk. I suggest changing out the bearing and machining the flywheel while its all apart, and if the mileage is high, even replacing the rear main seal would be a good idea, especially if it shows any sign of seepage.
It should also be pointed out that changing car brands probably won't help, since LUK manufacturers shoddy clutches for other vendors as well, such as FORD and GM. You certainly won't get a high quality AISIN in a domestic car.
Is it a 4-cyl?
also- ive driven with a clutch my entire life, i know im not that hard on it. the mechanic said that he wasnt sure what caused this. he said the clutch "pad" looked great, which i guess would be more messed up if I were bad at using a clutch?? can anyone tell me how this may have happened so I dont repeat. thx!
> "the mechanic said that he wasnt sure what caused this."
That's what he's paid to say about these clutches.
Now 3 days ago and about exactly 12 months and 10,000 miles later, I went to drive the truck. Pushed the clutch pedal in and it stuck to the floor and would not return by itself. Truck would not move. Was not at home so had to have the truck towed to a local repair shop. Called the dealer who did the work last year and now being out of warrany, they said it wasn't covered. I did call National Toyota and got a case number started.
I am 75 years old and not new to driving vehicles with manual transmissions. All but 4 of the vehicles I have ever owned had manual transmissions and I have never replaced a clutch or throw out bearing. I do not abuse the clutch.
Any thoughts?
I got the truck fixed at my local garage mechanic. He diagnosed the problem as the clutch master cylinder. He over nighted a replacement and got it fixed the next day.
Total cost was about $300.00 which inclded $122.00 for the new master cylinder, 2 hours labor at $78.00 per hour, brake fluids and taxes. Was out of warranty and dealer would have charged me at least that much and I didn't have to have the truck towed at about $100.00 to the dealer where I bought the truck. My local mechanic thought that it was odd that the MC failed that quick.
Hope this helps someone.
Jolly
I'd like to add that I hadn't put 20000 on my truck I actually got the receipts with the truck of the clutch being replaced just before i bought it. 2 clutches 2 slaves and master cylinders in 20000 miles and it still doesn't work right . This is rediculouse!
h with no problem.