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kcram - Pickups Host
This is clearly some kind of electrical problem but I don't know where to look or start.
Thanks!
says this outlet (with the metal fuse) is only used on a Supercrew.
Is this something I will have to get from a dealer ?
Does this appear to be a realistic identification of the issue ?
Thanks
Chip
Is there a way to tell if this odometer has been tampered with? ANY help anyone could offer would be greatly appreciated.
1992 F150 5.8L with towing pkg, CB, air horn, plus power everything.
Just bught the truck wih original 60,000 miles, mostly highway. For the past couple of years (don't really know how long) previous owner hardly ran it, just started her up and let her run for 30 mins or so once a week.
I've put about 5,000 miles on her since May, and now she's draining the battery. I've narrowed the problem down to the voltage regulator.
Those 5,000 miles were the beak-in; I'm likely only going to drive her a couple times per week, for maybe 20-40 mins each time, and then 2 or 3 times a year for 200-400 mile camping trips.
Question: Is this limited operation likely to bring on more/other issues with the charging system? If so, maybe I should replace the alternator or consider some other alternatives to head off potential issues?
Thanks for any advice,
shep
I'd been on some very rough roads, probably driving too fast. When I stopped to set up camp and shut off the ignition, the truck died. No response whatsoever when I turned the key.
Got lucky and found a guy who sold me a battery, truck started. I was out for a few more days and had no problems. When I got home and didn't run it for 2 days it again would not start--again, no response at all.
I replaced the battery and starter (just for good measure) and she started right up. The next day, completely dead. Rechecked my starter installation--all good--recharged the battery and she started right up. Next day, dead again.
I recharged and retested the battery--it held charge when it was not hooked up--and when I put both cables back on the voltage dropped rapidly (30 secs) to about 6.5V. When I pulled either cable off it steadily recharged itself. Both cables hooked up, rapid drain; either cable alone and no problem.
I unhooked the voltage regulator harness and the drain stopped, so I replaced it. With the new one installed, rapid drain AGAIN!
I hooked up my multimeter between the POS post and cable and then the NEG post and cable, each time pulled every fuse and relay, but turned up nothing.
(In line on the NEG side, though, with each fuse pulled I got a minimal jump in voltage--after I pulled and replaced them all the total voltage jump was .3V)
So I checked continuity across the tops of every fuse. The EEC relay (diode) showed resistance of .18. The maxi20 fuse associated with fuel pump relay showed resistance of .01, so I replaced the relay and got continuity.
Still the battery drains. I am stumped. Can anyone out there give me a CLUE??
Thanks,
Shep
Hughett :sick: :mad: :surprise:
My lower adjusters are seized because of rust on the adjuster metal screw thread. I've done the usual WD-40 soak but still can't move the screw in the threaded plastic hub of the adjuster, and at least one of the hubs already has a crack running along its length.
Does anyone know of a source for buying these adjuster assemblies? I'm afraid Ford will want a big price for them. I've tried eBay and searched the Internet with Google with no luck.
I spent some time yesterday spraying the two seized adjusters with WD-40 then tapping them with a small hammer hoping to loosen the plastic rider on the rusted threads, but no luck.
Then I turned one of the seized riders as forcefully as I dared, and it began to move on the threads. That rider was the one what had a crack running its length, parallel with the threads.
This morning I got out my utility knife and cut the rider on the other seized adjuster until it was all the way through the hub and now that one moves on the threads, too.
It is a destructive solution, but is seems to solve my problem, and hopefully will save me about $60!
They are usually taped to another set of wires.
There will be 4 of them all together.
I have an 05 but I cannot find the ones under the dash to plug into the switches.
Where are they?
Wire Diagram
Wire color
White Ground
Green Right brake/turn +
Yellow Left brake/turn +
brown Tail/marker light +
Last night after when stopping the truck and turning the key off, the heater fan stayed on, So did the light of the direction and thermometer. I tapped the switch by the thermometer and turned off the heater, the fan stopped. This morning the battery was too weak to start the truck. It's been cold and maybe the battery is bad. (?)
I too have had the situation with the dome light staying on. I'm going to try the WD40 and hope it works for me too.
Any ideas why the electrical system seems to have a mind of its own?
Thanks,
Scott
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/196821-odometer-blackout-problem-fixed.html
http://www.f150online.com/forums/electrical-systems/126765-intermittent-odometer- -repair.html
Doug
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
removed defective passenger door ajar switch / SCIT CH came out in 2 pieces. Installed New. (Parts: $29.58, Labor $155)
Don't forget to pay yourself for your hard work!
Also, the door alarm counds every time I open the door. It sounds as it would if I left the key in the ignition and exited the vehicle. I suspect that the problem may be in the steering column. By shaking the key switch will stop the alarm bell for a few seconds and then the ringing comes back. I tried tightening the steering column housing and this didn't work. Does anyone know about this problem and how to fix it?
Thanks for your help.
and rear brakes done.
Now when I accelerate from a red light the ABS light comes on and the speedo freaks out for a few seconds....
then the light goes out and the speedo starts to act right.
Also it seems to have a rougher ride and less power.
Please Help.
Thank You,
Kenny Brooks