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Chrysler Pacifica Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I check the production line dates and lead times. at www.arifleet.com/production.htm/ and they HAVE NOT stopped the 2--8 PAC yet. I read that the end of April will most be the end for the PAC. hope this dispells false rumors.

    farout
  • rhtransrhtrans Member Posts: 84
    I may be wrong farout...maybe they did finally come up with somethin new, But i wouldn't doubt if they still used the same clutch materials in the converters...lol. Who knows...only time will tell the story.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    If you so choose the LEMON law you will wind up with a settlement that is not near what Chrysler will do if you just tell them you want a buy back. I have Chrysler very fair when we had our 2005 Jeep Liberty diesel buy back. I never mentioned the Lemon law and was treated better than I could have hoped for.
    There is a acknowledged problem by Chrysler. They have developed a reFlash they are doing now, which may fix the problem. Replacing the TC is according to my Service Manager may or may not be an solution.
    I doubt driving 1400 miles on you vehicle will show them anything. Heck that's going to take maybe a month to put on that many miles. I would not do it.


    farout
  • tdunawaytdunaway Member Posts: 9
    I have asked them to buy the car back several times and they have replyed that they would not. They have now mentioned some type of trade certificate but would not give a dollar amount to help us out of the car. We picked the car up last friday and they felt the shudder @ 55 miles per hour but had no solutions for a repair, :confuse: so just sent the car back home w/ us. :lemon: The dealer is going to speak w/ them again on tuesday (tomorrow) to see if they will buy it back. I don't want to go the Lemon Law route if I don't have to but it looks like my only alternative. :( I just would like to do a collateral exchange for a new nitro or Jeep wrangler at this point.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Put it in writting and give it to the service manager and the General manager of the dealership. Call 1800 992 1997 customer care line. Tell them the problems you have had and are dealing with. This should get some feed back in writting and will establish your desire to resolve it ASAP.
    You do not say how many miles you have on the PAC, and when did you get it? Have you had ALL work done at a Chrysler shop? Have you kept it up by the B schedule in the owners manual? These are Major issues that can hurt or help in a huge way.

    farout
  • tigger12tigger12 Member Posts: 9
    Saying that Chrysler will settle for more than one reached by enacting the Lemon Law may over-generalize, and cause some to wait too long to initiate a case. While I'm glad that your were able to resolve the situation working with Chrysler, it seems like you have a unique relationship with the dealer or the manufacturer. Too often I've read about individuals having to go to different dealerships to even get the problem recognized.

    In Ohio you are entitled to recoup every dime spent on the car, including any accessories you may have added (i.e., trailer hitch), finance charges on any loan, registration fees... and best of all any attorney fees.

    A friend of mine went through the process a few years ago. I don't think Chrysler can beat this settlement. However for the sake of fairness and avoiding attorney's ... which is nearly always a good idea... I would consider a buyback. But don't wait too long, most Lemon Laws have constraints on both time and mileage parameters to work with.

    Best luck to everyone!
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I am not sure about Ohio, but in the five states I have lived in that is generally not the case.
    However the better part of wisdon says it's better to be better prepared to meet those you want to win over to your point of view. Threatening and shounding like a lion when your a kitten is fool hearty. The service managers and those even in the uper management are use to big noise makers and those who vent angry nasty words. This goes in the drag your feet file. Lemon Law threats are usually settled by an arbratration board, and rarely does the consumer come out 100% satisfied. Ohio may well be different.
    I have used kindness, praise for the Service Manager, and the dealership when talking with the people that has authority to move my request to a higher person up the ladder. I have seem that for me this has done more than any Lemon Law or Lawer ever could.
    I guess whatever works best is what a person should try. But one shot is generally all we get.

    farout
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    I have always been more than patient. It is distressing, however, when you hear nothing for eleven days and then get after finally giving in and calling you are told that they will call you back that afternoon, and it doesn't happen for another week. This is not a good way to build up cuatomer relations. I was told on four different trips to three dealers that there was basically nothing wrong with my car. On the fifth trip they started throwing parts on it without making it any better. This leaves it wide open for the Lemon Law. I now have an independent garage owner who writes for various auto magazines driving the car to sort of critique it. If he findsthat there is nothing wrong, then I will give up and suffer for a few more years. It is very unpleasant to drive in freezing weather when you get nothing but ambient temperature air o your feet and heat blasting from the defroster - this with the climate control set on floor.
  • bulldozerbulldozer Member Posts: 31
    Well, I drove my 07 PAC for three days now since I picked it up from the shop, and it is still pulling to the right. Especially under acceleration. And the front end still has a distinct "rattle" from both the left and right sides when encountering bumps or rough spots in the road. I have called the dealer and told them they would be seeing me again.This will be the third visit for the pull to the right problem. I'm beginning to doubt that it is an alignment problem, although I do plan to take it to a different shop if it still pulls after the third trip to the selling dealer. If the outside shop CAN fix it, then I know something is up! It is a shame, though. I really enjoy driving the PACs we own, but there just shouldn't be that huge of a difference in ride quality between my wifes PAC and mine. Anyone else having alignment issues or a noisy rattling front end? I'm almost tempted to have the car inspected for hidden damages that may have occurred before I purchased it. :confuse:
  • yottsyotts Member Posts: 10
    I just bought a used 07 Pac, it has been in the shop once alreday for the shuddering problem. I took it to a local chrysler dealer here in town. The told me it was a computer flash that updated the transmissions computer. It works fine now and really does shift very smooth. So I took it on a late night 120 mph drive to see what was going to happen when going higher speeds instead of the everyday work commute 20- 45 mph. I can honestly say it works and checks out fine one thing I hate about what chrysler did was to not put a transmission dipstick in the tranny case. I was told it was done to keep consumers out of the transmission case. It will cost about $120.00 - $ 150.00 to have the fluid checked. Because there is a specail scan tool the dealer uses to check your fluid. Is there a better way to check the fluid if so please someone let me know. I also would like to know if anyone knows about with synthetic oil works best in this engine. :D:)
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    I have the same noise on uneven road like bad shocks, the dealer told me that is normal they say that can not duplicate the noise but is there every day the issue that boder me the most is the shudder and harsh down shift at low speed.
    please drive slowly to 20 Mph and then brake all the way to complete stop and tell me if your transmission downshift rough, please any of you that can send me the feed back .

    thanks.
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    My Pacifica does all of the things that all the others do. After the last dealer threw parts at it only to make the front end clunk worse, I decided to go the Lemon Law way. Surprise! Since I had arbitrated, I cannot use the Lemon Law. It seems that Chrysler funds NCDS and there is some vague clause somewhere that says that once you have arbitrated, you cannot sue.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    That is a real hit in the face! If they failed to tell you this or you were not given any paper work telling you that this was binding, you need to see a lawyer. What did the aarbitration board do or say?

    I notice that at 11 F the rumble or whatever you all it, is louder. But, the ride is smooth, and there is plenty of power.
    The service manager says the lock up clutch in the conveter is what Star is saying, and there is a new reflash out in two weeks. The new T&C with the AWD 4.L 6 speed auto is doing the same to some of the 08 as well. So help will arrive, it may be a while.

    It's just time to document the time and places it happens and be ready for the fix, and make the dealer aware of what's going on.

    farout
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    Sorry to hear that but very usefull, I started to have my suspicius about the integrity of the people at chrysler saying that all is NORMAL I bet that if I was about to sell the car to the dealer they will find everything and more, I hope that is coming a fix if not I will get a lawyer and start a lemon law at once I did not want to go this way but if you said this is the way to go.
    Regards.
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    What is distressing to me is that first NCDS assigned an arbitrator that I specifically requested that I not have. I called NCDS and said that I would not be there with that arbitrator. The girl said that she made a mistake and would see if another arbitrator was available and she "will let you know". I also received a call from a Chrysled attorney asking if I was going to the arbitration and I told her that I was not because of the wrong arbitrator. She said that there was no point in her going either. I was NEVER told that the other arbitrator was available and they proceeded without me or my automobile claiming that I never cancelled. Is the process slanted toward Chrysler? Absolutely. It has been suggested that if I am displeased with my car I could trade it in - that would probably be a $10,000 bath.
  • bulldozerbulldozer Member Posts: 31
    Tried the 20 mph then brake to a stop. No problems. Ever since I had the trans controller flashed, I have had virually no shifting or shuddering problems again. I did, however, find an article on the internet concerning the noisy front end. The article stated that the noise could be caused by a few things: worn sway bar ends, bad suspension control arms, or faulty motor mounts. Well, I've already had a motor mount replaced. The dealership service department is already expecting me by weeks end, and I plan to show them the article hoping it will steer them towards a possible solution for my PAC. I don't see how these parts could possibly be "worn" at only 11,500 miles, but I expect them to be replaced to see if it fixes the problem.
    What update did the dealer use to flash your trans control computer? I hear there are a few versions out there. Whatever one they used on mine did the trick. I will try to get the version from my dealer and post it, if I can.
    I still really enjoy driving my PAC, and I hope they can make it right like it should be. Or they will see me yet again. I think of myself as extremely patient as long as I am treated with the same respect. So far, so good. I won't be taking my PAC to the other Dodge dealer in town because these guys do really seem to care. I will keep everyone posted.
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    Thanks for the feed back, we all want to have our PAC's running as it should be, personally I really like the car and no other Chrysler product of the current line is nice in my opinion, please try to find out what kind of flash they used in you car so we can tell the service mgr to install on.
    Regards.
  • monte96monte96 Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 2007 Touring Pacifica in NOV. of '07. I'm having the same with the trans. shuddering around 35mph-65mph. I'm taking it to dealership tomorrom.
  • tdunawaytdunaway Member Posts: 9
    Good luck w/ everything, after our fourth service, 2 torque converters, Flashes, ours still has the shudder, not as bad but still noticably there. Chrysler called me this morning and said that they would give me 3,000.00 in trade script along with any current incentives to help to get out of the vehicle. Yea right, a car w/ 4000 miles on it and depreciation of "alot" 3,000.00 doesn't do a damn thing. They upset me that they don't understand the importance of customer loyalty and satisfaction that they say they are all about. I guess I will have to continue on w/ the lemon law.
  • bulldozerbulldozer Member Posts: 31
    I dropped my 07 PAC off Thursday evening late. The dealership called me Friday at 5:30 pm and told me they had ordered a set of lower control arms for it. They are scheduled to be installed once they arrive on Monday. Once installed, they will re-align the steering (again) and see if this will fix the ever present pull to the right and noisy front end. I really hope it does, or I may end up calling Chrysler for further assistance. I don't believe that the dealer is at fault here. They are trying everything within their range to make it right. I just don't enjoy repeated trips to the service department with a car less than a year old that has less than 12,000 miles on it. I will keep everyone posted.
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    I had another Cleveland garage owner (Sam Bell, owner of the Lusty Wrench who is well certified, credentialed, and published) drive my car. One of his comments was, "I can't believe that you own such a peice of crap." He noticed and documented most of my concerns. I loaned my car to a neighbor while my garage was servicing her car and when I called her to thank her for filling it with gas, she asked, "Why do you own such a terrible car?" She, too, has written up a list of what she experienced. This week my daughter, who owns a Pacifica, will be driving mine while we are servicing their truck. We shall see what she has to say.
    I am going to go through the arbitration process again now that the selling dealer has literally thrown parts at the front end (sway bar bushings, right strut, steering rack) only to make the clunk worse. We shall see what happens.
  • yottsyotts Member Posts: 10
    This is Ron from St.Paul Minnesota the flash bulldozer was 31443 that was done on my PAC on JAN 17 2008. MY TRANSMISSION RUNS VERY SMOOTH WITH THIS LATEST FLASH YOU WILL ALL NOTICE THE BIG DIFFERENCE. HOWEVER THE GAS MILEAGE IS NOT VERY GOOD AFTER THE FLASH RIGHT NOW AROUND 14.9 IN THE CITY AND 22.5 FOR HIGHWAY.
  • monte96monte96 Member Posts: 4
    I took my '07 Pacifica on Saturday 1/26/08 and stay there until they did there dianosticts and flased the transmission computer controlled chip. After three hours they said the technician had took it for a road test and it was ready to go. The service person told me to try it out, but it should be fixed (NOT!!!!!!!!). Only a 1/2 mile or so from the dealership the trans. started to shuddering again. Going to call Monday 1/28/08 to see what they say and take it back to them. :(:(:(:(
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    My transmission was flashed in September or October. Was there any improvement - absolutely not. If anything the shifting is more unpredictable and erratic. It is claimed by Chrysler that this is normal. I do not think that having a car suddenly downshift while you are driving at abouty 35 MPH on a level surface and with no change in throttle pressure is normal. I do not feel that having a vehicle start from a stop in 3rd or perhaps 4th gear and then literally slammng down into 1st gear is normal. Chrysler does, however.
  • rondyrondy Member Posts: 4
    Thanks - you are the only one that answered my specific question. My husband had the car while I was out of town and put 87 in it. I noticed that I've gotten more gas mileage with the 87 plus save much more money. Thanks for letting me know. 87 it is from now on!
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    The gas mileage on my car is about the only thing that is acceptable.
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    Sorry to be a wise guy, but the only thing that should go into a gas tank is gas or an approved additive.

    I bet you won't find a single, reputable person using "disks" in a fuel tank. This sounds like a nasty gimmick that at best does nothing....at worse, does too much....wrong.

    Have your buddy read-up on how octane is tested and calculated, then see if he can explain, in detail, how these things work.

    I am a chemical engineer and I doubt there is any science behind this.
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    I got some answers that may be helpful from just answer.
    Good evening, there are two items that I would like to address to help with this concern. Chrysler has a few service bulletins related to these concerns. Most deal with flashing the controller as you mentioned having had performed already. One of them in paticular being service bulletin #21-016-07 requires replacing the torque converter assembly and flashing the controller. It deals with the actual shudder concern. The new torque converter has a revised friction material. With this info in hand take a moment longer and listen to the next info. I have personally dealt with this issue regularly being a Chrysler technician. It was requested to me by the Chrysler instructors to add a half a bottle of rear end additive which is a friction modifier. They recommend doing this first before replacing the torque converter. They have had great results with this so far and that is exactly what I have been doing. So my first recommendation is the addition of half a bottle of friction modifier and make sure they perform a quick learn on the trans after it has been driven a few miles which will allow the modifier to mix evenly. This isnt documented through chrysler anywhere so no dealer will have this info. If they do not wish to perform this simple process then they can then remove the trans and replace the torque converter per the service bulletin. The additive is where I would go next.
    Q.. What about the warranty? and the hard down shift it even pull the car foward if you don't have the brake pressed firmly and I beleive is the reason of the broken engine mounts. my car has 7000 miles today
    A... I work at the dealer and have performed that repair and no issue related to warranty. If the dealer has questions regarding the additive, they can contact the chrysler hot line called "Star" and they can speak to the factory reps and get the same info. This is the starting point I would go with and then recheck the other issues after wards. Otherwise they will need to remove the trans and replace the torque converter. Make sure to bring it to their attention and even give the service bulletin number if need be. An informed customer can scare the hell out of them.
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    Q......the intrusive down shifting is related to the torque converter?
    A.......Its the starting point. You may have 2 seperate issues. That service bulletin covers a few different complaints such as a bump sensation with torque concoverter engagement at different times. We need to address the most obvious issue that I have a solution for, then recheck it to see what is still present if anything else.
    Q.....this kind of shudder does any harm to the internals of the transmission?
    what is really happening when a car shudder, does the engine moves? or vibrates? because I have that feeling that the engine is shaking inside it feels like vibration.
    A.....The shudder does no actual damage to the trans or vehicle.

    What is Torque Converter Shudder?

    Torque Converter Shudder occurs when the clutch inside the converter on an automatic transmission is being applied and the transition from slipping to locked up does not occur smoothly. The clutch locks up for a brief moment and then slips, or breaks away, because it could not hold enough torque to complete the lock up. The ability of the clutch to hold torque is the converter's torque capacity, which is a function of the oil pressure applied to the torque converter clutch combined with the friction characteristics of the oil and friction surfaces. This process of locking up and breaking away repeats itself rapidly, typically 30-50 times per second, until the engine RPMs are reduced and the clutch finally locks up. Torque Converter shudder can be both felt and heard as these rapid vibrations are transmitted to the drive line.

    I think this guy has been much more on the point that my dealer, lets try this with our cars , please keep posted.
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    The dealer looked up the TSB for me. I had to tell them of it in the first place. At the request of a Chrysler attorney I took the car to the dealer to have the torque converter TSB performed - I thought. They did not do it, my car still shudders, and it is not unlike driving a car with a standard shift and an inexperienced driver. As for pouring anything into the transmission while the car is under warranty, I would strongly recommend against it unless a dealer technician wishes to do it and document that he did it.
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    All those were comments from a chrysler technichan they are doing that as first step . read the second part.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    faschulz: You are a big help, and what you say has been told to me by my service manager. They did a flash at about 1000 miles and replaced the TC at about 6500 miles. But at my last oil change at 9200 miles they checked motor mounts, and verything that they could think of. The SM also told me about the lock up clutch.
    Here is what is happening. at 1200 rpm tp 2000 rpm in what ever gear the transmission is in, while just gently giving it some gas if iam at thr slightest incline it has this lugging or whatever. (I am not sure what a shudder is.) There is more noise from the engine and a vibration shich the passenger feels as well. At 52 mph in 6th gear is starts and only when going up in an incline just enough to tell.
    I did some trying some things on my own. Wjen this lugging starts I put it into auto stick, and down shifted and it goes away right that instant, no matter what gear it is when it happens. Which leads me to believe it may be the shifting points. Is that reasonable to think this?
    My dealer is LLoyd Belt in Eldon, Missouri. I am very pleased with the work and the interest the service staff takes in this, and especially the Service manager Ron. So it in not an issue that we don't get along or anyone feels I do not appreciate what they have done or are doing. They have had three PC's with this problem. They have not sold but only a few 2007 PAC's. So any suggestions or your opinion is appreciated.
    I do think the PAC is a great vehicle, and fit and finish and materials are what is needed in the rest of Chryslers brands to keep it floating and get ahead. What a sad think thet DCX did not advertize the PAC, as I think it could have made a better production run.
    The 4.L engine with the 6speed automatic is a fast quick combination. The fuel MPG is 19 if outside temp is below 28 F and when above 40 it jumps to 22 mpg. We have gotten as high as 25.3 mpg and that sure beats the stuffings out of the cheap Compass we bought in 4/07, which we traded in on the pAC, best move we ever made! The CVT and the 2.4 L is NOT a good combination and the engine is severely lacking.
    The AWD is flawless and takes our hill as good as any of the 3 Jeep Liberty's we have owned. After the PAC we see we really never needed a Jeep. We bought a 05 Liberty CRD which DCX bought back after 25 times in the shop in 16 months, and the dealer flat called the Zone Rep nad said they did not want to see it anylonger as they gave up. That's how we got the Compass in the buy back.
    One thing I like the looks of is the Duel exhaust, even if they split off the same pipe, it looks cool, shame they only had it on the 07, any idea why?
    Thanks for you help in advance.

    farout
  • bulldozerbulldozer Member Posts: 31
    After replacing the two front lower control arms, re-adjusting the steering, and replacing both of the main motor mounts, the front end rattle on my 07 PAC has gone away. I'm still getting an occasional rough shift between second and third, but I haven't put but about 100 miles on it since the trans controller was flashed. Unfortunately, the rattle didn't go away completely. Oddly enough (and now that the front end has become silent) I can here a similar rattle from the right rear wheel well at low speeds encountering small bumps. Anyone else experience that type of noise coming from the rear section of the vehicle? At highway speeds, the PAC is quiet and happy. Under acceleration, it is quick and smooth. When turning at slow speeds, I get the irritating rattle. If I could just locate the source of it and have it eliminated, I would be completely satisfied.
    One other question, and this one is a good one! Both my wife and I own 07 PACs. They were manufactured less than 4 months apart from each other and are nearly identical - both Touring Editions with the 4.0 L and 6-speed auto-stick. Mine has leather and hers doesn't. But I did notice a weird difference and it may be why hers is less noisy in front than mine. Under the hood of my wife's PAC, on top of the strut towers (where the struts mount to the body of the car with 3 bolts on each side) there is a 1/4" thick cover made out of the same material as the heat shield stuck to the uderside of the hood. The tops of the struts and the 3 bolts that hold them in place are completely hidden from view by the covers. They continue down over the sheet metal about 4-5 inches and are charcoal in color. Under the hood of my PAC - no such covers! Almost identical cars except for that. Anyone else have or not have these covers? My dealership parts manager can't find them in the parts manual, and even the serial numbers don't help! He said he will have to call Chrysler to find out why hers has it and mine doesn't. Will someone check theirs and let me know if the covers are there of aren't there? Thanks in advance!
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    I have seen those covers on older pacs, I think that the front end noise is related to somethig as simple as that, I'm looking for those too, also I have seen that the wheel undercovers (the plastic between the tires and fender are kind of loose take a look at that, but for sure I think is insulation related.
    I also like very much my Spring Special edition Pac I think the engine, brakes and concept are very nice, I just want to be driven as a Normal car.
    by the way they are relpacing the torque converter this comming week I hope it works.
    I'll keep in touch.....
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Our 2007 AWD Touring made in 12/12/07 has those covers. I noticed them some time ago, and it makes the under the hood look more finished. Perhaps they are made to keep dirt from getting into the load leveling struts? When was your two PAC's made? I will see what I can find out and let you know.

    farout.
  • bulldozerbulldozer Member Posts: 31
    The build date on my wifes was 10/06. Mine was 02/07. I am not aware if either mine or hers has load leveling suspension. Any way to tell? Both under the hood and under the rear look the same to me. If my dealership parts department can find a part number for them, I plan to order a set for my PAC. I tend to agree with faschulz. It may be something as simple as those covers to quiet down the rattles in the front. I'd appreciate any info. Thanks!!
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    I believe that at least all 2007's have the Nivomat (load leveling) rear suspension. The rear shock absorbers and fairly large in diameter and all of the valving and other workings are inside the shock absorber. The are about $500.00 each.
  • faschulzfaschulz Member Posts: 52
    both have load leveling suspension.
    you can see wide shock absorber and in one side you see the oil duct.
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    I see that Chrysler recomends transfer case and differential case fluid flushes every 15k.....can this be right. This is insane. My dealer told me that I could probably wait until 30k and not affect my warranty. Any thoughts on this. These flushes are $230 to do the whole driveline and doing this every 15k seems outrageous to me.

    Also, any thoughts on when to change spark plugs.
  • rhollisrhollis Member Posts: 122
    I doubt if my car will last for 15K. I would suggest following the maintenance schedule that came with the car. That way, Chrysler has no argument.
  • knuckleneckknuckleneck Member Posts: 1
    My (BRAND-NEW like you) 2007 Pac had the vibration at 50mph, and I took it in 4 times to fix it. They replaced wheel bearings, rotated, balanced tires, etc...finally, I took it in the last time and told them to REALLY find the problem. TWO MONTHS LATER, they call me today to let me know it's ready.

    They rplaced the transfer case about a month ago, and when I went to pick it up, the vibration had lessened, but was still there. At this point, they've replaced the transfer case, replaced the left wheel bearings TWICE, and installed a new motor mount.

    I contacted a lawyer (In VA, car has to be in for 30 days in a year's period for the same problem to classify as lemon law), and we'll see what Chrysler comes back with about a buy-back.

    The motor mount is what bothers me...they said it would reduce the vibration from the transfer case, but isn't that like fixing broken glasses with duct tape? They're STILL BROKEN, just functional!

    I've heard grumblings of a "silent recall" on Chrysler's part regarding the '07 Pac...anyone else heard the same?
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    waterdr: I read your concern and then looked it up in my owners manual to make sure what I am saying is a fact. In schedule B by the the "Change the All Wheel Drive (AWD) power transfer unit fluid. (See note at the end of this chart)" Then at the end it refers to <> at the begining of the schedule. And it says Trailer towing<>
    Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial service. <>
    These are to conditions that demand the 15,000 mile service of the Transfer case and the differential. Spark plugs are listed at 102,000 miles.
    So if you tow a trailer just once in a while it still is not required.
    If you think that 15,000 miles under the above conditions are bad then don't consider a Jeep because they ALL require these services at every 12,000 miles on all true 4x4's. Hope this clears it up for you.

    farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    knuckleneck: Welcome to the forum. Have they replaced the Torque Converter, that has a recall and should have been done long time ago!
    It does seem like the dealer is attempting to get it fixed, so that's in your favor.
    Having had a buy back in April 07, Chrysler was more than fair to us , and we were very pleased how everything was handled. We had a 05 Jeep Liberty diesel, which had been in the shop 25 times in 16 months. Chrysler called me, and asked if I would like them to refer this vehicle to a manager who just might take it to the Zone rep. Ir all started on Feb 16th and was done by April 4th 07.
    Our mistake was selecting a Jeep Compass for the new vehicle. The Compass is a very cheaply made vehicle, and fuel mileage was 21 mpg and had no power and the CVT is a poor excuse for a transmission. SO on Aug. 31 07 we bought the PAC touring AWD. Very pleased but has the shuddering, and there will be a fix soon. Heck we got the Lifetime Powertrain, and the Lifetime Max care too. So I have time on my side and a daren good vehicle to boot!
    Hope this helps some.

    farout
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    Thanks Man!

    I looked last night (but now I don't recall the details) and the book is REALLY confusing. It talks about x-fer case at 15k, rear diff at 22k, and front at 30k and then it is due for the transfer case AGAIN. There is an A and a B schedule as you said and we don't tow. Also the plugs are due at 75k in my book.

    I will double-check.

    Keep in mind it was the dealer that told me I had to do everything at 15k and also the plugs at 30k. Seems like someone is getting carried away.

    I have always been good about maint on my cars, but I don't go crazy. In my Suburban I did all the fluids at 50k....15k seems insane.

    I have a 100k bumper to bumper and will probably keep it for 100 to 150k. I just don't want them pushing back on any warranty issues.

    BTW, the car has been great.....perfect....no issues (knock on wood).

    The only thing I have noticed is that at about 40 mph, under light load, and going up a small incline it will tend to bog, or rumble a little bit. The rpms are very low when this happens and it seems to be in 6th gear which is too much gear. A little more gas causes a proper downshift.
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    OK....just double-checked, I wa slooking in the wrong book and I see what you are talking about.

    However, under the "severe" every 15k it recomends the fluids but then there is an * indicating towing etc.... It never says when you should change when you don't tow. Under "normal" service, it never calls to replace the fluids at all.
  • superguysuperguy Member Posts: 2
    Just bought an 07 4.0L AWD, 8500km. Felt the shuddering on a hill for the first time today. Just wondering if there are any people from Ontario who have dealt with this issue before I take it in. I have read the posts about a service bulletin and I want to go about this the right way. I'm not sure if anyone has had enough problems in Canada to have the vehicle bought back. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, by the way I did casually mention that I had heard of the shuddering issue the first time in the dealer and as you can imagine they had no idea about it.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Waterdr: You may have the 1st edition owners manual, which is out of date for the 4.l engine. The 2nd edition says 102,000 miles for plugs on both schedule A & B. By the way Chrysler wants $52. for the airconditioner filter, which is schuled for replacement every 12,000 miles! Napa has it for under $30. Oil filter isn't cheap either!

    farout
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    Well, since I live in the Twin Cities, I don't hardley run the air conditioning, so it looks like I can skip that one.
  • s_harpers_harper Member Posts: 4
    Hey superguy,
    I'm from Toronto with an '07 Pac Touring that had the shuddering problem. See my posts on this thread (#25 & #27). Last April I had the torque converter replaced which reduced but did not eliminate the shuddering. Two months ago we took it in for re-alignment and the mechanic/technician noticed that the control arms needed to be replaced. Can't say I noticed much difference in the shuddering after that. However, about three weeks ago the shuddering stopped; the only thing that coincides with this was our inadvertent switch to using PetroCanada mid-grade gas. I'm not making any claims with that statement. There may have been something else done at our service appointment two months ago that caused the shuddering to eventually go away. Don't know.

    Anyway, I would ask your dealer to locate the service bulletin and/or give them the TSB number (from post # 232). That way they're prepared to deal with it ahead of time, there's no dispute about the existence of the issue and they will have the parts on hand when you bring your car in. No need to wait days to get your car repaired. Best of luck. Hope it works out for you.
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    Interesting....would someone please describe the shudder? How severe is it? When does it happen? Does it feel like a missfire, or is it trully drive train related?

    A missfire can be slight, or violent AND, often times they do not "pop" a code. Modern technicians have completely forgotten how to troubleshoot, they just hook-up code readers, start ruling crap out, and then start replacing parts.

    If changing fuel "fixed" you problem, you either have a fluke, the problem is really not fixed, or it is in fact fuel related.....such as timing.

    I have an idea.....you guys who claim to have this issue should find a good tuner in your area. Spend $50 - $100 and get the car on a dyno. The tuner can replicate the situation while on the rollers and data-log everything. Plus, they can use listening devices such as a stethoscope to look for knock and missfire condition.

    Unless you are sure this is a drivetrain issue, I think the dyno might be a good option.

    The tuner may even be able to correct the issue on the spot.

    BTW, I have personal experience with working with tuners and have had them reprogram my ECU before to accounts for after-market modifications.
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