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Chrysler Pacifica Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • gthosgthos Member Posts: 15
    Sorry to hear of your bad experience. How many miles do you have on your used '07 and how many miles have you put on it? I also have an '07 and had torque converter problems from almost day one (April 2007). No more problems with that since replacement, but I only have 18000 miles on it almost five years later and it continues to be of future concern. Extended warranty, given to me after much complaining to Chrysler corporate over other problems (still unresolved) expires April 2012. Good luck and it never hurts to give a manufacturer a little (or a lot) of heat. You have nothing to lose in that regard.
  • csharp2csharp2 Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2007 Pacifica. We too have had many of the same issues you have all spoken of. It just reached 100,000 miles, but to make a long story short, we are on the third new transmission from Chrysler, third TC and 2nd set of motor mounts. It was never right from the day we bought it brand new. It would clunk when shifting. Then it started stalling when I would stop and start. We took it in several times and Chrysler told us there were no codes, it was fine. It is in the shop again. Chrysler called yesterday and said we were once again approved for a new transmission. It is full of metal particles. This time though, it was really scary when it went out. I would be driving at 65 mph and it would suddenly and randomly shift itself down. The car would lock up with no warning. I had taken it in several times, once again to be told, unless it was doing it with the camera in it, they could not prove it was doing it. They installed the camera and got it to do it. So just saying, be careful, and do take it to Chrysler. It clearly is a major problem with these cars, and so far we have had three transmissions, all paid for by Chrysler (less a $500.00 deductible) and all installed by the dealer. Not that is has solved the problems. Seems so crazy to me that it can't be fixed with a new transmission?? If it weren't for the transmission, it would be a nice car.
  • jtg61jtg61 Member Posts: 43
    Why would there be a $500 deductible? The Lifetime Powertrain Warranty doesn't have a deductible that I'm aware of.
  • lexyflexyf Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2004 Pacifica, and 2days ago it would change from 1st gear, it drives but would change, tried using the speptronic system that would work either.
    The mechanic said it is electrical fault and it has to do with the brainbox .
    Please any body with these issue before

    regards

    lexy
  • csharp2csharp2 Member Posts: 2
    According to Chrysler, there was no warranty on the transmission. It had roughly 70,000 miles on it, but I had brought it in several times prior stating there was something wrong. We had to fight with corporate Chrysler to get it fixed. They made it seem like a rare thing that they did it for us. They said the transmission would cost about $5,000.00, so the $500.00 should not seem like such a big deal. I just picked it up today, and the transmission that they just put in 10 months ago has a 3 year warranty. We only have 2 years left, even though they just put in another brand new transmission.

    I was just reading though that there is only one kind of transmission fluid that should be used in Chrysler's and that most dealers, and mechanics do not know about it, that for some reason Chrysler does not make it clear. It stated that 90% of the transmission failures are caused by that? I'm not sure, but I am going to ask what they used.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    You are right, Chrysler has used a special a/t fluid for decades. ATF3 and now ATF4. It has an extra Lubrizol additive mix that is specific for the Chrysler a/t's.

    There are several off the self a/t fluids that are certified for use in the Chrysler a/ts, even the ATF 3 and 4 sold by WalMart are.
    No need for exotic expensive brands, these work great.
  • oileateroileater Member Posts: 1
    Still thuds. Only gave me a 3 month warranty!!
  • jpfizzlejpfizzle Member Posts: 7
    EVERYONE WITH 04-07 Pacifica problems, call 888 327 4236. It is the national traffic safety board and let them know your complaints. If enough people call and complain of same problem, they will force a recall.
    I have an 05 pacifica I just bought , shimmy and rattkle when I take off. Broken Motor mounts. Seems to be an issue with Chrysler. I called chrysler ( # from website) got a case assigned, and I will update everyone on how much they are going to help pay on this issue. I had a POS 06 jeep commander, everything went bad, they were going to pay for half of new transmission and ignition switch. Just call Chrysler and the safety Board. Stand united.
  • bethbrealbethbreal Member Posts: 1
    how have you made out as everything I read on this page I have been through with this tranny...and now the end of April 2012 I learn all this!! I called a dealer there are no recalls on mine. but it is on its way out I can hear it slip between 3 n 4
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I have bought more than 10 Chrysler made vehicles and purchased a Service Contract on each of them. I have never lost a dine. I found dealers go the xtra mile to help if you hae a Service Contract.

    What is your reason for purchasing one? Or why didn't buy a Service Contract?

    farout
  • caren2caren2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Pacifica that is out or warranty,and I just happened to make my last car payment in March after 6 years. (ARGH!) I bought it used in Feb.2006,with very low mileage. The reverse has totally failed. After speaking to several people,one a diy mechanic said that I probably only need a reverse linkage bushing. ? . Then I took it to the Chrysler dealer who said I need a whole new transmission, at a cost of about 3,000. Anyone else have this kind of problem? Sometimes when I put the car into drive, I get this heavy clunking noise. And Over the years Ive had lighting issues, headlights on driver side has been replaced 4 times, the lights just not working at all, even the dashboard went totally blank, but came back on after I stopped the car and restarted. also the car use to stall going uphill. That stopped. ANyway, any advice certainly would be appreciated.
  • jtg61jtg61 Member Posts: 43
    2005 was the only year that Chrysler offered the 7/70 transferable powertrain warranty. You might be close to the 7 years and probably over the 70k. If it had very low mileage, you still might be in luck. Good luck.
  • sallyp1sallyp1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 pacifica and ayear ago I started having problems. I check online and saw that alot of people were having issues so I called Chrystler and they paid for the motor mounts to get fixed. Eight months later the same thing happen but now the shifter wouldnt shift. I called Chrystler again and they talk to the dealership and came out with the excuse that it was the shifter only and not the motor mounts so I had to pay $300 some to get it repair. Now driving from Idaho to Texas my Pacifica would shift but It wouldnt run. I got it towed to the nearest town and they ended up saying now that the transmission is falling apart. It had metal particles in it and they dont know why. The only thing they could tell me is that it would be 3500 to fix it. So now Im stranded in a strange town without a vehicle and Chrystler is saying there not responsible. Im a single mother of three stranded and cant afford to pay to get if fix. Please help any suggestions
  • hollybarryhollybarry Member Posts: 11
    I can tell you right now, 2008 Pacifica, brand new. Four times my motor mounts have been replaced and all four times I had to SHOW them. BTW, they're broken again. They don't lift up the hood to see, rather they hook our cars up to computers to see if there's an "update". These motor mount issues/transmission problems THEY know about. Oh and they will hear again (trust me). STAND YOUR GROUND!
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Motor mounts are a common problem with many vehicles today especially those larger vehicles like the Pacifica which weigh's in at nearly 4,500#. The PAC is one of the larger cars made in 2007 by Chrysler.

    You don't say how amny miles on your? PAC (use PAC easier than spellin it all out) on the 2004 to 2006 PAC's transmission service was to be dome about 30,000 to 50,000 miles. If you bought your PAC from a Chrysler dealer surely they offered you an extended warranty (Service Contract) We have bought 16 brand new Chrysler made vehicles and on every one, except one in 1971. I sure made a mistake by not bbbbbbbbuying one. I have not failed to buy one on all the rest. I have always got my monet returned in the repair. I say never buy a vehicle without a extended Warrant,

    Here is what I would do if we were in your shoes. Call Chrysler at
    1 800 992 1997. Listen for the complaints or problems, I think its the last choice. I would call the dealer where you bought it. Call the BBB and get that started.

    Thay transmission used sshould not go for $ 3,000. Perhaps if it's a Amco or some transmission place, I think a Chrysler dealer can do for you a lot. Talk positive, don't down grade Chrysler or the car, dealers hate that and have no incentive to to help someone who is mad at Chrysler, the car, or something related to chrysler. Go in with a pleasent, kind attitude. If you do not have an extended warranty there is no reason to help you, except you come accross like someone he cpuld please, and is nice to talk to. Ask the General Manager or owned what he would siggest.

    It is always possible to run into a monkies butt. so if you have the luck to run into such a jerk ( proberly was a old YUGO owner manager long time ago) Just see if there is a near by Chrysler dealer.

    I do not know if you are a Christian, ( I am) the Lord is there don't be afraid to ask Him for wisdom and direction. God is faithful and we can trust Him

    farout
  • kottinkandee45kottinkandee45 Member Posts: 3
    I just called 1-888-327-4236 to complain and request a recall, and he said chrysler is willing to help with the cost! So we will see in the am what they can do for me. I'm happy about that.

    I bought my 2005 Chrysler pacifica in 2008 with 30k miles on it. I did buy a protection plan and used it for multiple repairs(F&R motor mounts & transmission solenoid) that same year. I tried to get my money back and return the car to the dealer but they screwed me around till they just went out of business one day!.. :lemon:
    Now 4 years later i'm going to pay it off this December and it's in the shop again right now. This is the 4th time over the past four years i've replaced the motor mounts!! I do have 108k miles on it now and i drive it a lot, but still i parked it for 8 whole months and only drove my 99 ford escort and had no problems! This pacifica is a nightmare! The motor mounts and the whining noise are driving me crazy!
    The mechanic says the whining noise is my altornator because it's about to go out. I didn't tell him it's been making that noise since 08.. its $200 + labor to fix that. $300 a visit for the motor mounts! And my 99 ford escort has been in the shop once in four years... to get an alignment! To me that don't sound right! I love the inside of the pacifica, but under the hood is a disaster and parts are too expensive! :sick:
    Also this last summer and this summer as well, my A/C is acting weird. when i first start the car it will not blow air from the front vents, but it is blowing from the rear vents. It only does this sometime and will just kick in randomly after about 2-5 minutes and start working fine till the next time i start the car. Not sure if it's the fan, motor or I'm thinking it might be clogged somewhere with debris? Either way I'm spending too much money already on the motor mounts to worry about that right now. :confuse:
    Well I hope more people call Chrysler and get some help!
  • bighedgebighedge Member Posts: 1
    I have 06 Pac (wife's car) and noticed the trend when I applied the E-brake. When released then put in Reverse, it would sieze and then not go in Any direction. If I started in Drive, no problem. Eventually, the car would go. We stopped using the E-brake, but took it to local dealership and left it. The service manager called me a few hours later and said that the brakes were worn and needed replacing, but they could not replicate the problem I reported, and that it would be ready when I arrived. On arrival, the mechanic was still under the car (raised up) with the wheels off and working on the brakes. I walked in and noticed a worn groove in ONE brake and no normal wear. I got the service manager and asked him to show me where the brakes were worn and he questioned the mechanic who showed him the scratch. I told him it was probably from whatever the E-brake was doing, but he never fixed that problem, yet wanted me to replace the brakes so they can wear AGAIN? I told him to put everything back on and I did not pay a penny and have not been back. I got numerous phone calls from the SM and then from the GM and told him what they had done and that I would not return. I like the Pacifica, but I DON'T like their service policies.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Not all ealers are the same. Call Chrysler at 1800 992 1997 and make a complant! I have been going to the dealer I use for a good long time, and if they ever do as was done to you I will let a lot of ppppppeopel know,
  • tbowestbowes Member Posts: 2
    Vehicle: 2007 Chrysler Pacifica, Touring, 4.0 FWD, 180,000miles.
    My wife pulled into a parking spot and as she was slowing to a stop, the car engine stalled. She placed the transmission in Park and was able to restart the engine. She was able to put the car in reverse and back up, but each time she selected Drive, the engine would strain, load up and stall. I could back the car up a hill, allow it to coast in Neutral until it reached 2 or 3 mph and then shift into Drive. The car would behave normally until I reached the point of stopping, and then the engine would begin laboring and the engine would stall. There was no unusual noise coming from the transmission before this began or even now. The DTC is P2763. I do most of my mechanic repairs for my vehicles, including engine rebuilds, but I'm not sure where to look for this issue with the transmission.
  • freddiemonteonfreddiemonteon Member Posts: 1
    i have a chrysler pacifica and i love the car i really do but all the problems that i have been having with it is not cool i replaced my motor mounts at around 70,000 miles and yet at 97,000 miles they are out again. on top of that my transmission is acting up i hear a loud banging noise when i go to put it into gear and when it changes gears from 1st to 2nd gear the whole car bangs. also when i go up hill the car will start to shake. and on top of all that the car makes this loud annoying sound when ever i push the gas like something is lose in the engine chrysler said there was a hole in my muffler but when i took it to other places they couldnt find anything wrong with that so im a little confused i have spent over 1,000 dollars trying to fix the car but if its not one thing its another. when i go to stop in a parking spot the car will like slip in the transmission its all getting to much for me i have called chrysler and they said that there is nothing that they can do for my car so its either keep paying for the car to get fixed or just get a new car if anyone has any ideas on what i can do to help fix my car i would love to get your feed back
  • gthosgthos Member Posts: 15
    freddiemonteon - What year is your Pacifica? I bought a 2007 new and had numerous issues with it. Fought with Chrysler and finally got them to give me an extended warranty (exp. 4/2012). After four dealers, I finally got what I hope was the last issue corrected (new rack & pinion steering). However, I only have less than 25,000 miles on it. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed and will probably trade at 50-60k if it holds together. Very displeased with numerous little rattles, mpg and excessive road noise.......... Let me know what year yours is and GOOD LUCK to you with your problems.
  • jdandpjdandp Member Posts: 1
    I have my 2004 pacifica for 5 years and haven't had any trouble with it until now. the main ground wire to the transmission broke causing the alternator to stop charging, so after the battery was drained the car quit running. after it was towed home, i charged the battery and found the car wouldn't even crank over. i found the main ground wire from the battery to the transmission was broken off, so i replaced the ground wire and the car started and the alternator was charging, however the bad ground shorted one of the registers in the transmission control solenoid and burned a hole in the cover causing a trans fluid leak. so i replaced the control solenoid, and the blown fuse. here is where i am looking for some help, on the shifter digital display all the gears are lit up and going for a test drive the car wont shift out of first gear, and every now and again when i start it, it will say its in reverse and the reverse lights are on. the code thats coming up with my scan tool is p0700 transmission control. has anybody else had this problem withe ground wire and solenoid going bad, and does anybody know of anything else that gets fried when this happens??? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
  • back_yard_mechback_yard_mech Member Posts: 1
    I also have experienced tranny problems with my 2006 Pacifica Touring AWD 3.6L. The dealership side stepped any ongoing issue with these Pacifica transmissions as well as those experienced in the Chrysler 300. At 45K miles the tranny clunked when shifting from f1st to 2nd gear. The problem appeared to be insufficient fluid flow or inadequate fluid viscosity therefore I drained my tranny fluid, dropped the cover, whipped down and blew off the exposed surfaces, changed the tranny filter, installed new tranny fluid and whalla my problem was completely solved until the car hit the 95K mark. Now my tranny pump whines when idle and at low speeds. I'm afraid that I will have to put the old girl to rest before she reaches her golden years. My lesson learned "Not everybody is honest in their dealings (no worries as they are making their own chain to shoulder in the after life) and stay away from modern unproven Chryslers".

    Sincerely,
    Back_Yard_Mech
  • sincerelysuesincerelysue Member Posts: 1
    I have experienced several electrical issues and motor mount replacements since I purchased this vehicle October 2007. I purchased it brand new and fully loaded. I only have 41,000 miles on my car, as of today, and I am getting the motor mount replaced for the 5th time. I first contacted the dealership prior to warranty expiring but made the appointment after warranty was up. I was naive and never fought them on that issue and ended up bringing it to my mechanic. I am not sure after going through my mechanic so many times that I can now contact the dealership again. I only travel back and forth to my kids school and shopping. I am not a race car driver. How is this happening? I am fighting my mechanic every 6 months on this issue. Is there a recall on the motor mount? Can anyone give me some advise on this?
  • shoeladyshoelady Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue with my 2006 Pacifica (now 104,000). My broken motor mounts have caused other issues that have resulted in other costly repairs: most recently a new radiator. Last week, I called Chrysler's Customer Service and filed a complaint. I was told by the CSR that there hadn't been enough reported issues regarding the motor mounts to warrant a recall. Based on what I've been reading, that's hard to believe! Anyway, she stated that my complaint would go to someone higher up for review...I'm not holding my breath on that one!
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Motor mounts on ALL PAC's are a item that does not take much beating up bu pot holes. I would call Chrysler customer care and the lemon law saya three times for the same repair. 1800 992 1997 good luck.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    At 148,900 miles we traded in our PAC Touring AWD. We saw no hope for the end of problems and traded for a 2013 RAM 1500 5.7 8 speed automatic.

    We had the LifeTime power train warranty and we bought the LifeTime Max Care $100. ded. warrantee. Between both of these a total of $ 18,000. was spent keeping it going. We saw no end to the problems and felt it was basically un trustworthy. We had hoped that we might not have to buy another vehicle at all. sowe bought the truck. So far we like it.

    I wish you all the best.

    farout
  • clearwaterblueclearwaterblue Member Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum and am hoping I can find some help. I'll start by saying I am not a mechanic but am technically apt. I recently crashed my 2005 Pacifica (touring - 3.5l engine) and smashed the radiator along with the A/C condenser and the transmission cooler. I'm replacing it all myself.

    I ordered all my parts online from ebay except the condenser which I got at a salvage yard.

    The trouble I'm having is with the Transmission Cooler Lines. I took off the old lines and was about to put the new lines on when I noticed that the old transmission cooler and the new one do not have the same connectors.

    The old cooler had a nut on the line that was held on with a pin and attached directly to the cooler. The new cooler has what looks like a place for a rubber hose to attach.

    Like I said, I'm not a mechanic and this is likely something silly that I am overlooking but I need some help figuring out how to connect the lines to the cooler.

    Please help as I am utterly confused and I have googled to my hearts content and can't find any guides on replacing the cooler. Thanks in advance!

    I posted this in another forum with pictures, so I'll add the link since I can't upload pictures here.

    http://m.chryslerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19973
  • clearwaterblueclearwaterblue Member Posts: 2
  • loren88loren88 Member Posts: 2
    We purchased our Pacifica in November 07 because it had a lifetime warranty on the drive train. Because we planned to drive the car for a long time (comfortable, great driving for my wife) we also purchased an extended warranty for $1800 (something we usually never do). Except for a motor mount problem in 2011 at 66K miles (which interestingly neither warranty covered), we have loved the car. One week ago, at 88K miles, the transmission went out. Chrysler says because we "did not have the car inspected in 2012", our warranty is void. Our original dealer says that that stipulation was not in effect when we bought the car and was added later and we should have been notified by Chrysler directly. We were never notified. Anyone have any suggestions? We are facing a $3500 repair, no engine warranty on a car probably worth 5K. We have always driven Chrysler vehicles but this is frustrating to say the least.
  • yuiyui Member Posts: 1
    these fluid filled mounts will always fail. there is a good reason they have not been reported, it is because they usually break after the warranty and people will not go back to the dealer due to the high cost but rather their local mechanic instead. i have replaced my front and rear mounts twice in one year and i wasn't going to do it again so after some chatting with a few race car guys, we came up with a $20 solution. the solution also fixed my clunk during shifting so it was a two for one deal. i purchased the 4 cargo tie down straps from costco for $20. i took the one end and hooked it to the bracket that the mount bolts to and i swung it under and around he lower engine cradle to hook the other end to the same mount. i tightened it up and the engine no longer mover 2-3 inches when i accelerate. i used a cargo strap for two main reasons, easy to use and it will not conduct electricity. many racers use heavy duty chains welded to the brackets. if the strap ever breaks, you have two more. i would do this right after you have replace any blown out mounts. i was able to do the front one in 5 minutes but i'll have to jack up the Pacifica to do the rear mount. i hope you have success like i have.
  • kottinkandee45kottinkandee45 Member Posts: 3
    If that really works I will ask my mechanic to do the same thing. I've replaced my motor mounts 7 times in 5 years. All but two of those time my mounts we broken right in two! My mechanic managed to get the factory mounts put on this last time and they paid for it! That almost fixed it, but not quite. The knocking is just less frequent and not as rough as if they were the off-brand mounts.
  • cwynn1992cwynn1992 Member Posts: 1
    DID YOU EVER FIND OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM IS? I HAVE A 2007 CHRYSLER PACIFICA AND IT IS DOING THE SAME THING. IT WILL BACK UP BUT WHEN I PUT IT IN DRIVE MY CAR COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF.
  • tbowestbowes Member Posts: 2
    I haven't solved my problem yet. I received one suggestion that I have yet to try. The suggestion was to replace the valve body. My plans are to replace the part in a couple of weeks. I have searched my local junk yards for a suitable valve body, but so far no luck. I guess I will have to bite the bullet and buy a new valve body which is expensive, ($400.00 to $500.00) range. I will post the results after I do that. If you solve your issue, please post and let me know. If all goes as scheduled, I intend to purchase and replace the valve body in the next 2 weeks.
  • loren88loren88 Member Posts: 2
    THE LATEST!!! Spent $3500 to have transmission repaired (Chrysler says it is in our warranty book we had to have an inspection at the 5 year mark. TRUST ME, our warranty book says no such thing! Next avenue is the State Attorney General.
    BUT the NEW NEWS is we now have a broken motor mount!!! and it was towed in yet again.
  • dem_mon8281dem_mon8281 Member Posts: 1
    We bought a 2008 Pacifica Limited with 25K KILOMETERS (15K Miles ) and have had nothing but problems. Our biggest headache has been the transmission. At 50k it started making a wheezing noise from somewhere. We brought it to Chrysler and they said ( 2 days later ) that the tranny filter an oil need to be changed. We've serviced it regularly at Chysler. The cost would be $600. ( WOW ! ) But ok. Returned to pick it up. Paid and went to get the car in the service dept. Guess what? The same wheezing sound. Now the car is still on warranty. So returning ( 3 days later ) We were told some cover or pump needed to be changed. They did not have the part and it would take 6 weeks to get it. Excuse me? But OK. 6 weeks later they called to say the part was in. We went and gave the car to them. 2 days later we were called to come pick it up. We went and were told we had to pay for the transmission oil change, $450. What ? But ok. Went and paid and and picked up the car. Guess what? same wheezing sound, at this point we had had enough. Big argument happened and we left with the intention of talking to our laywer. So I brought the car to our friends garage next door to our home. In 5 minutes he told us that the problem was our condenser, which was clogged. He added a transmission cooler in 30 minutes, charged us $100 and that includes replace the tranny oil. NO MORE Wheezing. Furthermore they noticed that the transmission oil cover had no gasket but was covered with some sort of silicone. They cleaned it and installed a transmission gasket. They thought that that was really stupid. To have the Chrysler dealer actually do something like that was ridiculous. When we contacted Chrysler about this they said that the service center does not belong to Chrysler but is leased to someone. They accept no responsibility. Needless to say I will never buy a Chrysler vehicule again and encourage everyone I know to do the same. I owned a Chevy Trailblazer 4X4 for 12 years and not once did I ever have a problem. Sold it because I had no room for it and got $2500 for it. I loved that car.
  • pacificadoctorpacificadoctor Member Posts: 1
    I have had the pleasure of working on a pacifica for a friend and let me tell you all now you will have issues with this transmission because of the cheap wiring harness they used to build this van and there is no need to purchase a new one because it is as cheap as the one you have.we had to rewire the hole transmission system and make repairs to the transmission itself and the wiring is the cause of the engine mounts breaking due to the transmission shifting hard as well as the no start problems and the weezzing noise.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Or 2007 Pacifica AWD had just about everything you can think of go wrong, but not the wires onthe tranny. The PAC's were NOT a great car, and the best advice is to get ride of it as soon as possible. be prepared for more repairs.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    The Pacifica was a vehicle with MANY problems. WE had the Chrysler service max care contract, (thank the Lord) The transmission in the Pacifica;s has proven to have so many probles that it was recalled for the torque converter. Transmission shops love Pacifica's! Never take a Chrysler of any kind to a independant shop, the dealers are pretty much strieght forward.

    Just for your info, we had our 2007 PAC 148,00 miles, and 6 years, The Lifetime Warranty paid our $ 16,000. in repair and our $ 100. deductable's we had nearly $ 4,000. so it was a very expensive vehicle to drive. Best advice is to sell it as soon as you feel you can. The 2008 Pac's wer betterthat the 2007's. They stopped production of the Pac. in 2008. There has been mush disappointment by Pac's buyers. You might call 1800 992 1997 and tell chrysler what has happened and see if they would be willing to give you a owners loyality Cert, to help you out on a new car.

    We bought a 2013 Ram truck and really like it and get better or as good as our pac did. Good luck.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    We had a 2007 Touring awd. It was constantly something for 6 years and 148,000 miles! The Lifetime warranty with the Chrysler Max Care Service Contract paid out $ 16,000. us in repair. From three trans. repairs, to Condensor, fuel pumps several times, to replacing the battery 3 times, to every electrical item , and seat backs, rear end seals, tir rodends, to motor monts mulit times, trans mounts, heater core, head lights, , the list goes on and on. I really thought there whould come to a slow down on repair, but it never did, We had $ 4,000 in our $100. deductables alone. However it was very good on brakes and tires, and gas, we got 19 to 24 mpg.

    Because of the warranty and we like the service manager and we know him, all our service was done at a Chrysler dealer. Even Chrysler felt rather sorry for the problems we had,

    Here is the hard part for you, my experience with our PAC was NOT unsual!!! If you can afford to sell it, you might want to think long and hard about it. We loved the ride and confort that the PAC had, it was esay to drive and we liked the car, it was the constant repair that killed it for us, We are elderly and we could see it just would not last as long as we expected it to. We bought a 2013 Ram 1500 Big Horn crew can 5.7 8 speed automatic. It gets great mpg just about like the PAC, only the truck is bigget and we had to buy a side step to get in it.

    I hope this helps, and good luck.
  • bigtexunbigtexun Member Posts: 2

    Wow! in reading the horror stories, it makes me wonder what is up with our 2007 Pacifica Touring. We purchased the car used, with 26,000 miles on it. The carfax was clean, it had been a lightly used fleet vehicle before being sold into the wholesale chain that got it to our dealer. It was at a really good price, and very low mileage compared to the other cars. The transmission issues were the only warning we received in our research, but it appears that only some people have the issues.

    Here we are a few years down the road, and my wife thinks this is the best car she has ever had. She is a bit of a lead-foot, and drives a high-speed toll road with aggressive 90 mile an hour drivers every day in her 45 to 70 minute commute each day. So this isn't grandma driving. We are past 100,000 miles now, and the only problem we have had is the shifter interlock broke. The interlock is a small plastic part with a spring that presses on a switch, to tell the computer you are in park, and it is ok to let you start the car. If the interlock is broken, it thinks you are not in park, and the car won't start. This is a common problem, I have seen it in many makes of car. They often get gummed up, sticky, or the switch wears out, or in the case of the Pacifica the plastic anchor point for the return spring broke off, so the engine would not start as a result. And this didn't just suddenly fail, intermittently it would refuse to start, then for no apparent reason after many attempts it would start... So I think that the Interlock was probably failing for a while before the spring broke completely off.

    The interlock part is a small plastic part, but the replacement includes the entire shifter assembly, which is fairly pricy. being a dealer-only custom order part, there is no way to get on on a weekend, and being without the car means I have to give my wife my pickup, since I have a shorter drive to the office... and I can't be without my truck for that long... So I decided to repair the unit, I took a very small drill bit and made a hole in a stong part of the interlock cam, so I could attach the spring. I intended to order the part anyway, as who knows how long my repair would last... Well, I never got the part ordered, and it's been over a year since I did the repair.

    I'm getting ready to have a brake job done, the first one, but they tell me the back brakes are still almost like new, only the front breaks need R&R (about $450). The front pads are about gone, and the front rotors are a bit warped, so the $450 covers new rotors, caliper rebuild parts, and a good flushing for both the front and rear.

    I also need a new set of tires ($650 to $850 installed depending on whether we get the good tires or not (we are getting the good ones)).

    The guy that did my safety inspection told me that the dealer had skipped some of the maintenance items on the 90k service, so I'm not really happy about that... But other than the fact I avoided a $500 repair on the shifter interlock, no unexpected issues have occurred.

    We have the front-wheel drive version, so that may be part of why our problems may be fewer than others here... We also don't have any teens driving it. Lead-foot 50-something adults with safe driving habits... but no peel-outs or aggressive driving.

    We do notice a small hard-shift sometimes, and when the wife is backing out of the driveway, it sometimes makes a low moan as she steps on the brakes... but I think that sound is just a minor noise from the rear of the vehicle where there are few parts of consequence... could be the brakes, or perhaps the rear shocks. But these are just minor intermittent sounds, nothing like the other reports here.

    Wonderful car!!

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372

    Yep, over the years there have been some horror stories with the Pacifica. Not that people don't have issues, but it IS nice to hear someone come around and post that their car is OK :)

  • vfilenkovfilenko Member Posts: 1
    Hey. Please help. Pacifica, when engine warms up well, on red light it shuts down. After it can be started by putting gear to neutral. After that if I put it in Drive, it shuts down again! Anyone had similar problem? Changed transmission output sensor.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    So it starts fine, you drive it OK, and once it's warmed up, it shuts down when you stop (and are still in gear) at a red light? Put it back in neutral, restart OK. When you put it in gear again, you're on the brake and not moving? Just trying to get a clear picture of what's happening.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,745
    Does it slam into gear and just quit like you dropped the clutch on a manual transmission? If so, the torque convertor lock-up clutch might be locking the convertor. You might need a transmission shop to look at this.
  • ohbryanohbryan Member Posts: 1
    I have had a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica for a little over 3 years. Purchased in 2011 with only 30k miles. Replaced transmission between 50k-60k and now at 110k i believe its going to be number 2. Anyone know a place to purchased a cheap reconditioned one near the Quad Cities? Davenport Ia.
  • bigtenfourbigtenfour Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2005 Pacifica, FWD bought used now has just over 85K.  We have the pesky tire pressure sensor message-and I just can't see spending all that money for parts/labor just to have that message go away-is there a HACK for that?

    We had the shifter lockout problem-fixed that with a aluminum billet replacement found online-100% fix.
    we took the car in for a free inspection 2 weeks ago because we noticed a "thud" on acceleration.  Shop said it was engine misfires (no codes) and lower A-arms were bad.  I took the car home-bought my own parts and replaced them myself.  The A-arms looked ok to me, all rubber looked good, but I replaced them anyway (bought online $45 each).  I also pulled off the intake plenum and did the plugs and spark boots (not the 6 coil packs). We did pop a code (P0441 EVAP EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM PURGE FLOW FAULT PURGE FLOW FAULT) - and I did NOT use a new intake plenum gasket when I put it back together thinking it looked fine and would probably do the trick.  It's $9 and I plan to replace it today to see if it makes that code go away.  I'll be searching the internet before I buy one and dive into that little job beforehand to hopefully save myself the trouble.  So, after putting the plenum back on-Test drive='Thud'!
    I popped the hood and told my wife to drive off-'thud'-FRONT MOTOR MOUNT.  I came across a YouTube video that showed me what I was about to get into and offered GREAT tips on easy removal. The front mount was cracked open from acceleration and is filled with oil-prepare for that mess because you have to rotate the entire bracket 360 degrees to get the housing frame and mount out-then you replace the mount in the housing frame-and reverse the procedure to get it back in. It was still difficult and I would advise this maintenance for just anyone; but if you've dropped subframe-type maintenance before-then you can probably handle this. Replaced the front motor mount (looks like a rubber air bag, is filled with oil inside and is mounted in a housing frame bracket ) and left side torque mount (little dog bone) that is bolted in next to the wheel well and front bumper shroud underneath-so be sure to turn the wheel all the way left AFTER you jack it up and get the car on jack stands-ALL OF THIS would be much easier on a lift, but (after removing the left side torque mount) I had to jack the engine up to get the front motor mount housing frame bracket out.  Car seems to work fine, but there is a bit of a 'shudder' when you let off the gas just after the last shift point-I'm guessing this is probably leaking seals inside the transmission and possible a torque converter.  The wife is complaining about the shudder-only because she is daily city driving to school, stores, etc, with occasional road trips no more than 4 hours at a time.  I don't know if I should bother with transmission trouble shooting or just avoid the entire hassle and get a (HOPEFULLY) good rebuilt transmission with NEW torque converter and hope for the best; the other option is to let it ride then wait for the no question signs of a bad transmission to rear their ugly head.  It seems to shift fine, no lagging, slipping or hard shifting-just a shudder after the last up shift during acceleration and only if you let off the gas just as it happens.  I feel like it might just be a fluid flow or pump "interruption" just as its done doing its job-like I'm dropping the RPMs and it's justifiably complaining a little-I don't think it's a huge deal-but I could be wrong.
    I also decided to do the brakes while I had the wheels off and found out that the front wheels turn in Park while up on Jack stands-the Emergency Brake Was the only way to stop the wheels from turning while removing the loosened lug nuts.  Cold this be because of the aftermarket aluminum billet shifter lockout bracket?  We still have to put our foot on the brake to shift (which I messed with a little while I had it apart-figured out how that lockout works to see if it could be bypassed).  It could not be bypassed; and the car does not roll when in park-so no worries-just though that it was weird for a FWD car to have the wheels moving while up on Jack stands.
    The rear brakes were more than 50% more worn than then front brakes, which I feel is probably appropriate, knowing that it's a city driven car-all the rotors looked REALLY good, so I saved money there (they checked straight with a 'homemade jig' that checks for warpage-like checking a bicycle wheel for straight).
    It's all back together except for a new air filter and intake plenum gasket-any suggestions on that P0441 Code?  
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
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  • wife4kidswife4kids Member Posts: 1
    Wow I was good until yesterday, I have 2006 Chrysler Pacifica 3.5 fwd touring 110,000 miles bought in 2012 smooth vehicle, until the engine went, the warranty people tried so hard to say I ran it with no oil but I had my oil change records, the result was they had to replace engine never told me how oil disappeared, if that's not horrible enough upon them replacing engine (Chrysler dealership) I got vehicle back and three days after engine replacement am on the highway and get off my exit come to a light and boom bright white light then fire, then alot shorts followed make a long story short the tech had crossed a wire from starter and it was making contact which made the battery smoke, even after all this I kept it and had them fix the issues they caused which in their words was just the starter and the battery, so why does my radio speakers go in and out and only three work out of the eight, anyway this was less then a year ago yesterday I pulled into parking spot and as I always do I put it in reverse but this time something was different I stepped on gas and nothing it just sat there one second later I lightly step on gas and it just started jolting accelerating on its own, am in reverse, I release gas and step on brake pedal and still this thing is going accelerating well the inevitable happened I smashed into the car to the side of me damaging door and mirror going at least 7 to 8 mph and still I think that's not the worst part after all this I try and start it and shift into gear and this thing sounded like it was trying to transform no more jolt just sounds like a sword fight when I try and shift gears she has been officially side lined. it could of been worse. Has anyone experienced this at all p.s. a year ago I would be driving and hit gas then car shuts off any advice would help me as per my screen name
  • helperguyhelperguy Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2007 Pacifica Touring with a 4.0 Engine. It has 175,000 miles, and has been a wonderful car NO major problems at all. But last month we started having transmission problems. It was the old "engine dies when put in drive" syndrome; that I now know to be a typical transmission problem for the 62TE 6-speed transmission. After a lot of research and NO answers, I started with the most basic and common problem: the solenoid module. I bought a new one on-line for $180 and spent 2 days getting it in without dropping the tranny. After a job well done, I started up the car, backed it out, (because it WILL go in reverse)... and put it in drive again. SAME problem; not fixed. So I learned that the next things to look at is the wiring, (ck ok) speed sensors (not relevant) and the torque converter. Well, after 170,000 miles I'm not going to pull the transmission to replace the torque converter ($250) just to find out "that ain't it either!" Nobody online had a real solution. So I talked to a friend at a transmission shop and he agreed that we should do the "limp-home" test: start the engine and pull the large 26-pin plug on the front of the unit. Then put it in drive. If it takes off (up to 2nd gear) then it may not be a mechanical problem, but is more likely an electrical or "brain damage" issue. Well, it DIED as soon as I went into drive. Ah-ha! - That means it's a mechanical issue with the tranny. Get a re-manufactured one for $2,500. Have it done by a pro-shop (or your warranty is no good) $850. On Tuesday he called to say that "Hooray! it now goes into DRIVE smoothly and without the old clunks, and runs beautifully.... except.... now it DIES when put into reverse. "Doh!!" ...No kidding. He says, "only Chrysler has the test equipment to really find the fault codes, etc. to get to the root of this problem. These units are 'smart' transmissions that actually self-program, and 'learn' etc. There isn't any way for us to check it out (it may have been a bad re-man tranny) without their certified testing and re-programming. ($120). So, long story short, this isn't something to start guessing at. I'm a pretty good mechanic, and I've read how stumped other mechanics are with this issue. Get professional (and accountable) help. We have an appointment on Monday at the local Chrysler Service Shop. Pray for us. Btw: we're GOING to fix this car. With a new/working tranny, and some servicing at home, we're hoping to drive another 175,000 miles. We certainly can't buy a reliable, great car (that my wife loves) for $4,000.
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