Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Subaru B9 Tribeca Engine Problems
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have yet to get my Tribeca back. However, the good news is they know what caused the problem. It appears one of the valve springs broke. This wreaked havoc on the engine causing it to misfire and shut down in essence.
They are still replacing the short block and as it turns out and a valve. Not sure if I heard them correctly, but they may have said the heads as well? Either way, because the car is still under the 5yr 60k miles powertrain, if anything goes wrong in the next two years, I would be covered. I have to figure this is good luck (bad luck) depending on how you look at it.
I will say the dealership has been great to deal with. I have not had to call them once for an update. They beat me to the punch. Not the best to be without my car for almost two weeks, but it could be much worse if the dealership hadn't been as good as they have been so far. :confuse:
Going on almost three weeks. The dealership had to order valve pucks for the adjusting of the valves. They were measuring them today, hopeful the car will be ready on Wednesday. :sick:
-mike
In arriving at the dealer at 530pm on the way home from work, the service writer immediately said this was not normal and is likely to be the valves not being adjusted properly. He suggested I could drive it home with no issue and that I ought to return it in the morning when they could fit it into the schedule.
The dealership provided another loaner car after fearing another valve spring may have broken on another valve. When I picked up the loaner car later in the day, the service writer and I were removing car seats from the car and he noticed (Whole engine was out of the car) a bolt appeared to have broken off. A bolt that holds the cam into place. He responded "good, looks like this is our fault and nothing with the engine. Explains why the mechanic didn't come speak to me before he left for the day." He torqued the bolt too tight causing it to break and rattle around within the engine.
Tribeca is back, seems fine. Keep your fingers crossed. My dad had a good saying he learned in the military - First time - bad luck, 2nd time Coincidence, 3rd time definitely enemy advancement ...Let's hope there is not a third engine problem.
-mike
How can I remove the under cover?
I saw two screws - could not unscrew them yet, since they are too tight...
Please advise....
Subaru uses plastic fasteners that looks like screws. You turn them slightly and they back out, then you pull the entire plug out, towards you.
They look like this:
Here is a side view:
Hope that helps.
I was also having trouble removing the undercover from my 2007 Subaru Forester in order to flush the cooling system. There are plastic fasteners as well as metal screws that are on tight. I was wondering if I should try to get them off myself or have the dealership do it
Thanks for your help
If not it still should be too hard. My 98 Forester had 2 metal screws and at least a pair of those plastic clips above, and it never took more than a minute or two to take off.
If you have any ideas or information please send them my way quick. If you need more info just ask me.
Thank You.
1. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and ensure it stays disconnected while you are in the car. Bend it a little so it doesn't "creep" back to it's usual place.
2. Press the brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds to completely discharge the electrical system. While pressing the brake pedal, turn the key to the "start" position for about 5 seconds. Then turn the key to the "off" position and release the brake pedal.
3. Reconnect the positive battery cable to the battery.
4. Turn the key to the "on" position and wait for at least 30 seconds. Sometime during the 30 seconds, the "ER IU" message should change to the odometer reading as normal.
5. Start the car, do a test drive.
I just tried this and it did work. The "ER IU" message went away and I didn't notice when. I then test-drove the car and the cruise control worked fine. If this does not work, keep trying the web. Someone knows. Good luck.
The brake light is supposed to use up any residual energy (didn't work for me for some reason), but giving it time will do that as well (that did).
The first time the dealer topped it off after 1000 miles, they said they put in .8qts with the oil level on the dipstick at the bottom of the E hole. When I checked the dipstick it was overfilled by about 1/2 a qt. I took the car back and they removed the extra oil. I brought it back after 1000 miles again. They added a 1qt. but when I checked it was overfilled again. I asked if overfilling was their technique to disprove an oil consumption issue. I did this four times in total. Only once did they not overfill it. Then they agreed to do the wet/dry compression test. It came back normal. 125-135psi per cylinder. I was then told that 1qt per 1000 miles was acceptable and that usage had to be over 1qt per 1000 miles. SOA and Zone/Area rep confirmed this and stood behind the dealer.
When I picked up the car the dealer wrote on the Repair Order that I had tampered with the test and was purposely draining out the oil between each 1000 miles. I was horrified and asked the dealer why they would write that, yet not say anything about it to me in person. The dealer said they had marked the drain nut with a plastic ring but it was missing when I brought the car on the last test. I reminded the dealer that I had a quick release valve not a drain nut, and perhaps their plastic ring fell off?
The car now has 28,000 miles on it and it drinks oil like water. No dealer will touch it. The only theory that has been given to me is that I probably did not break the car in hard enough and that resulted in cylinder glazing. I've owned a lot of cars and none of them use a qt every 1000 miles. I hate adding oil every week. I despise Subaru and will never own another one. It bugs me so much, that sometimes I'm tempted to pay an independent shop to re-hone the cylinders and install new rings. I've read oil consumption without smoke can only be via the EGR valve or cylinder consumption. But the $4-6000 I have been quoted is not worth it. That would buy a lot of oil.
Cars use oil and I've read boxer engines use more, but most Tribeca owners I talk too don't have this problem. I guess my Tribeca is defective and I'm stuck with it. My stomach sours every time I lay eyes on that car.
It is NOT normal. I have owned four Subaru's and not a one used oil. Well, okay, the '96 with 220,000 miles on it would drink maybe a pint every 1000 miles, but that was a gradual progression over many, many miles.
If your car ia an H6, I would definitely take it back to the dealer if it check out 125-135 psi. Also your car engine is under warranty for 5 years or 50,000 miles. There can be some bad engines out there, I don't think SOA is that perfect in producing an engine that is trouble free. Maybe they are aware of the problem and it would cost the company too much to recall all of the H6 and fix the problem.
I just don't trust there test procedures. Four days prior, my battery went dead and had to have my son jump start it. Took it down the next day and they performed their load test and showed me the results, everything was up to standard. Made me look like a fool and they where kind of smug and "see there is nothing wrong" attitude. The next day the car would not start again, this time I called there roadside service to jump start it. The next day it did the same thing, this time roadside hauled it down to Subaru to fix. When I picked it up they were very surprised that there test did not determine it was a bad battery. So don't believe everything they tell you, research it.
What kind of oil do you use, I change my own to Castro 5w-30 with a top of the line Fran filter.
">
Since then I have also used 10W-30 and tried a 20W-50 in the summer. That helped, but I know it puts extra stress on the oil pump.
I was not aware the compression test numbers should be 185-215psi. They told me 125-135 was the normal range and everyone else (SOA, other dealers etc.) I spoke to at Subaru confirmed that.
I could not find the compression numbers in the technical manual either. I would need some sort of official supporting documentation or the dealer is not going to touch it.
Mistyone1 if you wanted to email me your copy that would be very beneficial. I could not find a way to email you via this site, but my email address is public if you click on my screen name.
Thanks
They say spark or fuel, so add the ignition coil and ignition wires (does that model have 'em?) to your check list.
3135js
What weight are you using? Dino or Synthetic?
Oh, and I use synthetic.
That's surprising, at least to me.
My '07 with 64k miles burns NO oil, which is great, since I use expensive Mobil 1 (0W-30).
That's surprising, at least to me.
My '07 with 64k miles burns NO oil, which is great, since I use expensive Mobil 1 (0W-30).
I think what juice meant was that burning up to 1 qt per 1000 miles is an accepted tolerance in the industry. Anything less than that is acceptable.
Lately none of my engines burns any noticeable levels of oil, knock on wood.
My 1995 Mazda 626 did, a little. Still less than a quart between oil changes, though.
My 4 cylinder Forester had just one single ignition coil.
I replaced it ($80) when chipmunks chewed up the wiring around it.
More manufacturers are changing from a single coil and going to one for each plug. It eliminates the distributor and improves ignition performance.