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Chrysler Sebring Brake Problems
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Comments
JMR
The car has been sitting for 2 1/2 years, it went off the road and hit a tree in 2003, I bought it about a week ago. I had to replace some suspension, but very minor stuff wrong with it. It started right up when we went to pick it up and drove itself up onto the trailer.
Don't know too much about these cars, but its fun to drive. Its a one owner car.
As for chrsysls take on it. They know about it, yet wont fix it. Nor will they warrenty any part thats installed.(Almost never)
Chrysler/Dodge has the most Warrenty Claim/Deny rating among every car company in the world. There a whole 70% lower then the second last company... GO DODGE GO
I don't know if I'd call it a normal attribute - my '07 Sebring does not do this.
I have felt it pulse sometimes when I press the brake pedal but that's due to the ABS system and it only happens whenever there is snow or ice on the road.
Let us know how this turns out.
But now it seems like it is doing more often and more harder . Please let me know if you have heard something about this and if it is the same problem you are having
thanks
thank you .
Brake System Troubleshooting
Brake pedal pulsates or shimmies when pressed
1. Check wheel lug nut torque and tighten evenly to specification.
2. Check the brake rotor for trueness and thickness variations. Replace the rotor if it is too thin, warped, or if the thickness varies beyond specification. Some rotors can be machined; consult the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations before using a machined brake rotor.
3. Check the brake caliper or caliper bracket mounting bolt torque and inspect for looseness. Torque the mounting bolts and inspect for wear or any looseness, including worn mounting brackets, bushings and sliding pins.
4. Check the wheel bearing for looseness. If the bearing is loose, adjust if possible, otherwise replace the bearing.
I am glad your problem is solve, I really apreciatte that you let me know what is the problem I am going to take it to chrysler and tell them about this.
thanks again for your help.
Hmm...sounds close to what I suggested back on March 4:
The pulse can be caused by warped rotors from overheating (stuck caliper) or improper lug nut torque.
thanks for the help
until then they are going to check everything else , for mean while I am driving a rental they gave me.
Hope this works and it can finally be fixed
thanks again for your help.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Are there hardened clips to go over the slider?
Sorry to say It never got fixed I took it to the dealer six times already and they keep on telling me that this is normal ,the bad thing I live in Laredo and there is only one authorize dealer from chrysler .
I already talked directly to Chrysler but still nothing had been done for any of the two problems I have with my car. This is the worst car ever!!! I am just waiting to have a chance to change it for another one. Hope to ear from you with good news.
Got tired of taking it to often to the dealer. One time the told me that Chrysler knew about this noise and they were trying to find out what was it., that as soon they had any news they will let me know.....and still no news.
This was the worst car I ever had, it's very pretty but too much problems.
Hope you can find out what's wrong and wish you good luck
bye
Needless to say I was very disappointed as They would test the car and say there was nothing wrong with it until I finally could duplicate it with the mechanic in the car. It is funny how before they could find "nothing wrong" with the car until THEY heard the noise, all of a sudden it needs major front end steering work.
The car has been fine for the last year and the warranty is up.
Chuck Guest
1) After unsuccessfully wasting time, money and effort trying different aftermarket parts combinations, I bought a new set of front brake rotors and brake pads from the Chrysler dealership. Each brake rotor (MOPAR) box indicated they were “Made in U.S.A.” Removed the factory protective paint from the rotors brake contact area. Cleaned the rotors and pads to near surgical-like condition.
2) Ensured that both hub bearings were in good - if not - in excellent conditions.
3) I used a brake rotor runout gauge to properly install each brake rotor in relation to the hub bearing; I took the time to ensure that both front rotors were as close as possible to perfect zero runout.
4) I had installed 2 rebuilt front calipers before from a reputable brake caliper rebuilder; but, there was something suspicious about the left one. This time, I was very lucky that I found and purchased 2 front brake calipers that seemed to be brand new rather than rebuilt ones.
5) Replaced the 2 front brake hydraulic lines with OEM ones, even though the ones in my car appeared to be perfectly fine (they only had 60k miles of use each). I noticed that the new brake lines had an improved design.
6) Before the final assembly, I ensured that each brake pad was not too tight with respect to the anti-rattle springs at the caliper mounting rail and applied a very light coat of silicone based brake lubricant to the sliding end for each brake pad.
7) Caliper pins lubrication: I used a light film of silicone based caliper pin lubricant and ensured that each pin would slide in and out without lots of effort while displacing any trapped air. The upper slide pin bolt is the one with the rubber anti-vibration bushing. I found different recommendations on different websites; however, this is how it is working fine in my Sebring.
8) Doubled-checked the torque for every anchor and caliper slide pin bolt. Ensured that both calipers would slide freely.
9) I adjusted the rear brakes according to factory specs; you need to ensure that the rear brake system is doing its part to stop the vehicle.
10) Bled the brake system. Reinstalled the tires using the correct procedure and torque specification. With the vehicle tires secured, started the engine and pressed the brake pedal 7 – 8 times to seat the brake pads against the rotors and to verify proper pedal pressure before attempting to move the vehicle.
11) Inspect and refill the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir as needed.
Finally and very important, the new brakes break-in procedure. You must identify a road where you could safely and gradually reduce speed from about 40 - 30 miles x hr to about 10 - 15 miles x hr without coming to a complete stop. I selected a local highway at night where it was safe and there was almost no traffic. I repeated the previous steps several times; I probably drove for at least 30 minutes allowing time between each slow down for the brake system to cool down a little. Before I was using the 30 - 30 procedure, meaning 30 miles x hr down to approx. 10, rest 10 secs, then repeat. While this could be excellent for other cars, I decided to allow a little more than 10 seconds for the Sebring front brakes to cool.
When possible avoid panic stops or abusing the brakes for the first couple of hundred miles.
Please, note that I may have skipped steps and information that I assume the reader is familiar with. The information shared here should not be used in place of the factory recommended procedure. Brake system diagnostic and repairs should only be performed by Certified Technicians.
There are countless technical writings and brake parts manufacturer websites devoted to new brakes break-in procedures and related information; you must follow the factory recommended procedure from your specific brake parts manufacturer.
As a general rule, after the vehicle's speed is reduced to about 40 - 30 mph, the brakes are gradually applied to slow down to about 10 mph without coming to a complete stop, resume normal speed and continue to drive for some distance to allow the brake system to cool down a little then the process is repeated.
After you have done this several times as recommended by the brake parts maker, you should resume normal speed and continue to drive for about 15 - 20 mins for the brake system to cool down as much as possible before coming to a complete stop and/or eventually parking the vehicle.
You will need to identify a secure place where you could do this process without placing yourself or others at risk.
I Bought a Sebring 2007 crd limited, and have the same problem. No solution yet, the Dealer says its normal...but it isnt.
Any solution?
Best Regards,
H.Chora
Thanks for your feedback...wish me luck
Regards from Portugal
H.Chora
I have one new set of rotors and one sets of pads (japanese brand)....and everything ok...but just drive 250 miles...
Regards
thanks for everones help, I hope this can return the favor and ease your frustration to one of you, find a dealer you can trust, use new Mopar, not their discount Value Line brand the dealers sell you for their service coupons, make sure they dont use an impact on wheel lug nuts when mounting, and do not turn rotors ever, if grooved to point of maximum just replace them.
If dealer gives you a hard time tell them to look it up in the JS family model service manaul 2007 - 2010 Chrysler Sebring / Dodge Avenger and CALL Factories toll free 800 number and complain, if in California have them start paper work on "lemon law" you will be called back and that's a promise