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Chrysler Sebring Brake Problems

2

Comments

  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    I would definately suspect the shocks.
  • rickscorgisrickscorgis Member Posts: 3
    hi i own a 2002 sebring conv ,i have had rear rattling brakes since 20k and chrysler would not cover..its a bad clip that holds the pads on,but i have to replace the brakes completely..i have had many problems with front end also..rick
  • rickscorgisrickscorgis Member Posts: 3
    I OWN A 200 LXI CONV,FROM DAY ONE A HEARD A SQUEAK IN THE FRONT END .AFTER NUMERIOUS TIMES THEY FINALLY REPPLACED THE FRONT END.THEN REPLACED TIERODS AGAIN,THIS YEAR I HAD TO REPLACE DRIVERS TIEROD AT MY OWN COST.ALSO THE REAR PASS BREAK HAS RATTLED SINCE 20K .ITS A BAD CLIP AND I HAVE TO PAY FOR A WHOLE NEW BRAKE JOB BECAUSE WARRANTY WONT COVER.MY CAR OVER HEATED ONCE,KNOWONE KNOWS WHY.MY HEATER SWITCH BROKE,THEY FIXED..MY SEAT HEATERS ARE BOTH BROKE NOT A WARRANTY FIX,REAR DEFOG BROKE NO WARRANTY,AND I ACTUALLY HAVE RUST THEY WILL NOT COVER UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE ITS NOT A HOLE!!!!! I WAX AND GARAGE THIS CAR EVERY DAY FOR WORK AND HOME..I HAVE HAD IT AND WILL GO BACK TO MITSUBISHI MY LAST CARS PREVIOUSLY FOR 10 YRS NO PROBLEMS..SEND ME A MESSAGE ID LIKE TO HEAR FROM YOU ALL..THANKS :lemon:
  • jmr76jmr76 Member Posts: 1
    I currently own a 04 sebring coupe and need to get my front rotors turned. My question is how do you remove them? I've done many brake jobs but these seem to be a little tricky. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
    JMR
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    A 97 Sebring Coupe LXi V-6/auto with 55k on it. Anything I should look for? I did notice the car shakes badly on braking, but I'm not sure if its a warped rotor or rust on the rotors. Other than that it seems fine.

    The car has been sitting for 2 1/2 years, it went off the road and hit a tree in 2003, I bought it about a week ago. I had to replace some suspension, but very minor stuff wrong with it. It started right up when we went to pick it up and drove itself up onto the trailer.

    Don't know too much about these cars, but its fun to drive. Its a one owner car.
  • tylerb1tylerb1 Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 sebring has had 2 sets of back brakes..... and i've read in numerous places they are hard on brakes.
  • dshelbydshelby Member Posts: 3
    I have read that the brakes may be under sized. May need to try a performance rotor
  • djones834djones834 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 JXI with 68k on it. In the frigid winter we are having (Chicago) the brake lights have come on and stayed on. Not the dash warning light that I've seen in previous posts, but the actual brake lights. I've topped the fluid off and still the same. Any thoughts? THanks, DJ
  • sebring9586sebring9586 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 chrysler sebring. I put new brakes on in around september, i do drive it to work and etc. Now it has been vibrating for the last probably 3 months or so. Also, i have noticed i have a oil leak now. Can i fix the oil leak, because i am tired of putting oil in my car every couple of days or so. And the vibration is kinda worrying me too.
  • deameondeameon Member Posts: 2
    The brakes on the sebring actually start to tighten up during driving, slowly putting them on. You see this in the back alot and alot of people will hear grinding or feel abit of a tug. It also kills the pads very quickly. Also the heat from them alost being on all the time you drive, it makes the rotars warp. This gives masive amounts of vibration during breaking, and has even cause my friends car to feel like its being shaken side to side as he drives.

    As for chrsysls take on it. They know about it, yet wont fix it. Nor will they warrenty any part thats installed.(Almost never)

    Chrysler/Dodge has the most Warrenty Claim/Deny rating among every car company in the world. There a whole 70% lower then the second last company... GO DODGE GO :)
  • griffin2griffin2 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2004 Sebring Touring..The emergency light comes on and dings when you are going down hill and it also comes on when you push the brake (most times)..a few times it has come on when we are just driving. The emergency braske is not on and it does not seem to work when we put it on. The light just keeps coming on..Any ideas as to why??????
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    do you mind sharing year and last 8 digits of your VIN - I am having SAME problem, my dealers claims I am the only one - I dont believe that, so I will get proof
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    To all 2007 Sebring Owners - have any of you experienced a condition where when you slow down your vehicle you get a shimmy, vibration, or pulse that can be felt throughout the car but especially up in steer column & steer wheel ? - I was told by the dealer this is "a normal attribute for this vehicle" an answer that is unacceptable - I would like to hear from all who have a problem - I intend on fighting this with Chrysler
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    I was told by the dealer this is "a normal attribute for this vehicle"

    I don't know if I'd call it a normal attribute - my '07 Sebring does not do this.

    I have felt it pulse sometimes when I press the brake pedal but that's due to the ABS system and it only happens whenever there is snow or ice on the road.
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    yes thanks, I am in "sunny southern california" and the ABS pulse is for when you "stomp" on the brakes so they dont "lock up", this is a very light pedal application "coasting" to just slow down vehicle - no weather conditions affect this issue - thank you for responding
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    The pulse can be caused by warped rotors from overheating (stuck caliper) or improper lug nut torque.

    Let us know how this turns out.
  • yoyis2024yoyis2024 Member Posts: 8
    Hi!! I do not speak english that well, but I think I am having the same problem you do I bought 2007 sebring on december last year ,it was brand new but it had a discount because the year was almost over and they wanted to sell all 2007 vehicles. So after I month starded felling when I put the brakes on and almost coming to a stop it makes like a push or it pull it self to the front I do not know how to describe it, I took it to the dealer and they keep it there like three days and then they told me that they could not find anything wrong with it
    But now it seems like it is doing more often and more harder . Please let me know if you have heard something about this and if it is the same problem you are having
    thanks
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    yes - I think we both are having the same symptoms, and yes same with me I bought my car in November 2007, I just recently found that the car has been on the dealers lot since October of 2006 and was one of the units first produced - the dealer turned the rotors & replaced pads but that did not resolve problem - I am taking car to another dealer by request of Chrysler factory for a second opinion if they cant find out problem they promised a factory tech to come out from Sterling Heights MI (where made) and an engineer to look into it further - keep an eye on this string for further developments
  • yoyis2024yoyis2024 Member Posts: 8
    can you please keep me informed? I will really appreciate it.
    thank you .
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    well "fixed" by Chrysler (different dealership) turned out brake rotors were warped so badly they needed replacing not machining and set of new pads did it - dealer showed me in their "service manual" the following - I hope this helps

    Brake System Troubleshooting

    Brake pedal pulsates or shimmies when pressed
    1. Check wheel lug nut torque and tighten evenly to specification.
    2. Check the brake rotor for trueness and thickness variations. Replace the rotor if it is too thin, warped, or if the thickness varies beyond specification. Some rotors can be machined; consult the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations before using a machined brake rotor.
    3. Check the brake caliper or caliper bracket mounting bolt torque and inspect for looseness. Torque the mounting bolts and inspect for wear or any looseness, including worn mounting brackets, bushings and sliding pins.
    4. Check the wheel bearing for looseness. If the bearing is loose, adjust if possible, otherwise replace the bearing.
  • yoyis2024yoyis2024 Member Posts: 8
    Hi!
    I am glad your problem is solve, I really apreciatte that you let me know what is the problem I am going to take it to chrysler and tell them about this.
    thanks again for your help.
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    well "fixed" by Chrysler (different dealership) turned out brake rotors were warped so badly they needed replacing not machining

    Hmm...sounds close to what I suggested back on March 4:

    The pulse can be caused by warped rotors from overheating (stuck caliper) or improper lug nut torque.
  • captain10captain10 Member Posts: 1
    I also bought a Sebring in November and have a similar virbration. Usually around 35-40 mph as I decelerate.
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    agreed, they advised me they had "turned" (machined) the rotors prior but apparently not right & when dealing with Chrysler under "warranty" they sometimes make poor business decisions, I even offered to pay up front and if successful then they pay me back - and of course the answer was no -

    thanks for the help
  • yoyis2024yoyis2024 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 07 sebring touring that I bought on December 07 , I been having problems with it since I bought it , first when coming to a stop I can feel like a tug or push to the front , this is always that I am stoping !!!! and a a noise that I do not know if it comes from the engine but it is almost like a when you ear an airplane's turbine from far away you can hear it when you are about to run the car and also when coming to a stop, and occasionally it also makes a squeeking noise when I turn left I had took it to the dealer three times already because of these they keep it for a week almost every time and told me that the tug and the noise was "normal" and that they could not find anything when it turn to the left that I need to wait if something came up on the car panel or a bulletin or recall, so I took it to home and two weeks later it broke down now this piece of [non-permissible content removed] is stuck in parking , I had to call the wreck truck to pick it up!!!!! T :lemon: his is the 4th.time now and I only have six months with this car and it only has 6,400 miles on it , what can I do so they can pay attention to me???? does any one know? :confuse: :cry:
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    sorry does not sound like same problem I had - as far as who you can call - try the toll free number for Chrysler Corpotate, file a complaint with them, or try another dealershp, thats what it took to get my car fixed right - then if unsusessful, go right to the Dept. of Consumer Affairs - good luck to you
  • yoyis2024yoyis2024 Member Posts: 8
    hi, thanks for your information I called the 1-800 number for chrysler and they talked to the dealer and give me a case/reference number & told me that they are looking for the piece that need to be replaced for the gear stuck in parking,
    until then they are going to check everything else , for mean while I am driving a rental they gave me.
    Hope this works and it can finally be fixed
    thanks again for your help.
  • italiangraywolitaliangraywol Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring and the rear brake caliper on the passenger side is locked up wearing down the brake pads in weeks. I installed a new brake caliper and it's still locked up. SOS!!!! Does anyone have any ideas on what to check next????
  • fford1fford1 Member Posts: 1
    My experience is slightly different to the vibrating brakes. I agree that generally it is caused by warped rotors which I have experienced many times. However in this case the vibration came soon after putting on new good quality rotors. upon checking the rotors were not warped. In stead the brake pad holder on the slider had worn groves into the slider & would stick there . If the brake were applied gently the pad holder would stick in the grove, the calipher would deform the brake pad causing the vibration. If i jamed the brakes on hard the pad holder jumps off the grove & braking is smooth. I filed the groves out of the slider, rounded the pad holder surfaces & regreased, but it is not a permanent fix. The pad needs a hard smoothclip on & grease to work smoothly. The slider seems to be made of too soft a material
    Has anyone had a similar problem? Are there hardened clips to go over the slider?
  • jenn2043jenn2043 Member Posts: 1
    I know you wrote this quite a while ago, but I have been having the same problem, since september of 07... did you ever get any feedback as to what this was or what it might be??? I don't know what I'd do if what happened to you happened to me... I've often wondered if my wheel would fall off or my front end drop out because it just sounds so terrible...please let me know... thank you!
  • yoyis2024yoyis2024 Member Posts: 8
    Hi ,sorry to ear you too have problems .
    Sorry to say It never got fixed I took it to the dealer six times already and they keep on telling me that this is normal ,the bad thing I live in Laredo and there is only one authorize dealer from chrysler .
    I already talked directly to Chrysler but still nothing had been done for any of the two problems I have with my car. This is the worst car ever!!! I am just waiting to have a chance to change it for another one. Hope to ear from you with good news.
  • missyabitmissyabit Member Posts: 1
    hey. i have a 2004 chrysler sebring sedan, i noticed yesterday this humming noise that appears to be coming from the front end, also when i break, and just about to stop, the car sorda jerks or kicks.. any ideas what it could be? the tires are pretty new, had them since last april
  • yoyis2024yoyis2024 Member Posts: 8
    Hi , I do not own this sebring 07 anymore, but they never figure it out what is this humming noise and the jerks -or- push that it made when coming to a stop.
    Got tired of taking it to often to the dealer. One time the told me that Chrysler knew about this noise and they were trying to find out what was it., that as soon they had any news they will let me know.....and still no news.
    This was the worst car I ever had, it's very pretty but too much problems.
    Hope you can find out what's wrong and wish you good luck
    bye
  • spike14spike14 Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in what the outcome with this problem was.Thanks
  • primrosesmprimrosesm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Sebring hardtop convertible. A very nice car when it runs correctly. Last month I drove to California. When going uphill with the cruise control on the car would just keep accelerating. Tapping on the brake should have turned off the cruise control but it was like hitting a brick wall with my foot. I had to turn it off manually. I just picked the car up this evening after having it in the shop for 2 weeks and it now has other problems. When stopped at a light the ESP light and the electronic throttle control light came on and flashed. The car began running very jerly and sort of jumped forward. In addition I have had it in 4 times now for a very low groaning noise when making a left turn. Anyone have these problems? How did they get corrected??
  • tapechartapechar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 LXI. I have new rotors and pads all around. When I first get into my car and take off the front brakes make a loud clicking noise. It goes away after driven a few blocks and will not do it again until I park it, then get back in it and go. Any suggestions ?
  • 1huck1huck Member Posts: 1
    I just found your message. I bought an new 2007 sebring Touring. Do you still have a problem? It took me a while for them to fix it . They had to put a new break booster in the car At first they said they could not find anything wrong with the car, but I refused to pick it up until they fixed it. I told them this is a safety issue. A car pulled in front of me on the interstate and when I hit the breaks the car kept going. I had to SLAM the brakes to unset the cruise control. I called the dealer right away and took the car in that afternoon. I could make it do it if I had the cruise on going up hill. Then I would I made the service manager take the car home then he found the problem. New break cylinder and booster. Has not done it since. I also had the loss of power and they told me maybe water was in the gas. They told me how to reset it and it worked. The groaning noise drove me nuts. It happened to me but when I would take it in I could not make it do it. Finally they heard it. They replaced the steering rack and they said there was metal pieces in the powersteering pump so they replaced it. The car still made the noise but was better. The dealer went out of business so another dealer looked at it and said the problem was the first dealer did not tighten the bolts on the replacement parts they put in the frontend.

    Needless to say I was very disappointed as They would test the car and say there was nothing wrong with it until I finally could duplicate it with the mechanic in the car. It is funny how before they could find "nothing wrong" with the car until THEY heard the noise, all of a sudden it needs major front end steering work.

    The car has been fine for the last year and the warranty is up.

    Chuck Guest
  • dylan2009dylan2009 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Seabring that all of a sudden is having what I believe are break problems. It is such a hard noise to explain. However, it only happens when I am in consistent stop and go traffic on the high way. If I use my breaks going 65 mph it makes no noise at all. However, if I'm going 20-30mph it makes this noise (knocking, I cannot really explain). The car has been to the dealership 4 times. They've replaced the Swaybar and breaks and they cannot figure it out. It does not make this noise all the time. I dont know what to do. Has anyone ever experienced this before.
  • pbmiller1pbmiller1 Member Posts: 2
    96 Sebring Conv - brakes get hot after about 5 mins in stop n go during hot weather. Brakes go out to the floor and car pulls sharply to right. I can smell a burning smell and hear a loud air flow when I press the pedal. Once the car cools and the outside temperature goes down I have brakes again but still hear the loud whish of air everytime I press the brakes. I have no fluid loss, in fact it looks a little over-full to me. I'm not sure if I should be hearing this air sound when I press the brakes and am worried about them getting hot and going out in stop n go summer traffic. Any ideas what could be causing this problem?
  • glyngglyng Member Posts: 1
    But now, my brake light is dinging off and on all the time. Mostly when I turn right. Any clue why? answer is low brake fluid.. just add some dot 4
  • pbmiller1pbmiller1 Member Posts: 2
    wondering if anyone can tell me how to tell if this is caliper or vacuum booster?
  • investigate199investigate199 Member Posts: 3
    I had these checked out at numerous Chrysleer Service DEalerships they all say the brake shoes are good but they never address the Rorors, The Brakes are Horrible right now I never had any service on the brakes after 6 years and 70,000 miles yet the technicians say my brakes are fine only after looking at the pads, they never test driven the car nor have they every looked at the fluid level. The Service technicians are WORST then the Chrysler Cars themselves. Never again Will I by a Chrysler Product nor any car thats under their umbrella such as Dodge, etc.
  • mpfimpfi Member Posts: 5
    Here is the checklist that worked for me.

    1) After unsuccessfully wasting time, money and effort trying different aftermarket parts combinations, I bought a new set of front brake rotors and brake pads from the Chrysler dealership. Each brake rotor (MOPAR) box indicated they were “Made in U.S.A.” Removed the factory protective paint from the rotors brake contact area. Cleaned the rotors and pads to near surgical-like condition.
    2) Ensured that both hub bearings were in good - if not - in excellent conditions.
    3) I used a brake rotor runout gauge to properly install each brake rotor in relation to the hub bearing; I took the time to ensure that both front rotors were as close as possible to perfect zero runout.
    4) I had installed 2 rebuilt front calipers before from a reputable brake caliper rebuilder; but, there was something suspicious about the left one. This time, I was very lucky that I found and purchased 2 front brake calipers that seemed to be brand new rather than rebuilt ones.
    5) Replaced the 2 front brake hydraulic lines with OEM ones, even though the ones in my car appeared to be perfectly fine (they only had 60k miles of use each). I noticed that the new brake lines had an improved design.
    6) Before the final assembly, I ensured that each brake pad was not too tight with respect to the anti-rattle springs at the caliper mounting rail and applied a very light coat of silicone based brake lubricant to the sliding end for each brake pad.
    7) Caliper pins lubrication: I used a light film of silicone based caliper pin lubricant and ensured that each pin would slide in and out without lots of effort while displacing any trapped air. The upper slide pin bolt is the one with the rubber anti-vibration bushing. I found different recommendations on different websites; however, this is how it is working fine in my Sebring.
    8) Doubled-checked the torque for every anchor and caliper slide pin bolt. Ensured that both calipers would slide freely.
    9) I adjusted the rear brakes according to factory specs; you need to ensure that the rear brake system is doing its part to stop the vehicle.
    10) Bled the brake system. Reinstalled the tires using the correct procedure and torque specification. With the vehicle tires secured, started the engine and pressed the brake pedal 7 – 8 times to seat the brake pads against the rotors and to verify proper pedal pressure before attempting to move the vehicle.
    11) Inspect and refill the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir as needed.

    Finally and very important, the new brakes break-in procedure. You must identify a road where you could safely and gradually reduce speed from about 40 - 30 miles x hr to about 10 - 15 miles x hr without coming to a complete stop. I selected a local highway at night where it was safe and there was almost no traffic. I repeated the previous steps several times; I probably drove for at least 30 minutes allowing time between each slow down for the brake system to cool down a little. Before I was using the 30 - 30 procedure, meaning 30 miles x hr down to approx. 10, rest 10 secs, then repeat. While this could be excellent for other cars, I decided to allow a little more than 10 seconds for the Sebring front brakes to cool.

    When possible avoid panic stops or abusing the brakes for the first couple of hundred miles.

    Please, note that I may have skipped steps and information that I assume the reader is familiar with. The information shared here should not be used in place of the factory recommended procedure. Brake system diagnostic and repairs should only be performed by Certified Technicians.
  • mpfimpfi Member Posts: 5
    New brakes break-in procedure clarification.

    There are countless technical writings and brake parts manufacturer websites devoted to new brakes break-in procedures and related information; you must follow the factory recommended procedure from your specific brake parts manufacturer.

    As a general rule, after the vehicle's speed is reduced to about 40 - 30 mph, the brakes are gradually applied to slow down to about 10 mph without coming to a complete stop, resume normal speed and continue to drive for some distance to allow the brake system to cool down a little then the process is repeated.

    After you have done this several times as recommended by the brake parts maker, you should resume normal speed and continue to drive for about 15 - 20 mins for the brake system to cool down as much as possible before coming to a complete stop and/or eventually parking the vehicle.

    You will need to identify a secure place where you could do this process without placing yourself or others at risk.
  • h_chorah_chora Member Posts: 3
    I,

    I Bought a Sebring 2007 crd limited, and have the same problem. No solution yet, the Dealer says its normal...but it isnt.

    Any solution?

    Best Regards,

    H.Chora
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    well 3 years & 32,000 miles later, 5 sets of rotors, 8 sets of pads Chrysler OEM branded, Wagner, Bendix, and Centrex brands Chrysler made good on an engineer visit, he replaced pads & rotors back OEM, (do not use value line) and do not turn OEM rotors ever - this increases heat, do not let technician at dealer or tire store use impact wrench - use hand wrench and torque wrench, as weird as it seems that "worked" - clearly defined in JS (Sebring family including Dodge Avenger) factory service manuals, this will cause rotor to warp, heat will build up and continue, cutting rotors (also called turning) thins out metal and thickness also causing heat build up enough to warp - now having checked at factory expense every 3 months / 3,000 miles whichever comes first and so far they are holding up - keep fingers crossed
  • h_chorah_chora Member Posts: 3
    I,

    Thanks for your feedback...wish me luck :)

    Regards from Portugal

    H.Chora
  • h_chorah_chora Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I have one new set of rotors and one sets of pads (japanese brand)....and everything ok...but just drive 250 miles...

    Regards
  • research5research5 Member Posts: 9
    my brake issues were pretty much limited to accelerated wear, and once pads were worn, and heat build up warped the rotors there would be a vibration in steer column that could be felt in steer wheel when braking slowly and at around the 40 mph mark, the heat build up got so bad at one point on rotor set #3 the rotor surface had cracked, (looked like shattered safety glass) and had a bluish purple tinge color in center hub another sign of excessive heat present, I still like the Sebring runs good, stopping has always been my challange and of course poor dealer support (everywhere)

    thanks for everones help, I hope this can return the favor and ease your frustration to one of you, find a dealer you can trust, use new Mopar, not their discount Value Line brand the dealers sell you for their service coupons, make sure they dont use an impact on wheel lug nuts when mounting, and do not turn rotors ever, if grooved to point of maximum just replace them.

    If dealer gives you a hard time tell them to look it up in the JS family model service manaul 2007 - 2010 Chrysler Sebring / Dodge Avenger and CALL Factories toll free 800 number and complain, if in California have them start paper work on "lemon law" you will be called back and that's a promise
  • donseibdonseib Member Posts: 1
    I am going through the exact same problem. I already changed the pads, the rotors, the calipers, the parking brake shoes. Yesterday a friend told me that the brake line is probably pinched. Makes sense, right? Not sure if that is a big deal to do. Well, doing anything laying in my driveway isn't a walk in the park.
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