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Chrysler Sebring Convertible Top and Sunroof Problems

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Comments

  • kinzerkinzer Member Posts: 2
    Hi, it has been a while, but did u ever get a good answer to the whistling convertible top? Mine also squeaks real bad at tye roofline as well. Thanks for yourvtime..
  • jackieh2jackieh2 Member Posts: 17
    Re: air leak under convertible roof. Mseningen, this was not my message. I have a 2008 vehicle with a retractible soft top. So far, no problems at all--but the warranty is about to expire on some of the components of the car. Jackie h.
  • asiangemasiangem Member Posts: 4
    Well, I found my own solution to the problem.

    I replaced all the weatherstripping around the windows including the front weatherstripping for the front window panel and the sides of both sides of the windows and rear windows.

    Then my mechanic at Burge Chrysler in West Los Angeles was able to bend down the top of the convertible so that it sat tighter on the weatherseals. This worked and it does not leak anymore. He worked on it (even though it took two times) but it was finally fixed.

    Keiko :D
  • sprngcreekladysprngcreeklady Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring convertible. When I drive the car in a winter snow storm it snows just as much inside the car as outside. I have taken it to the local Chrysler dealer and they tell me the top needs to be replaced because the clamps are not clamping the top down tight enough. There are no adjustments to make them tighter. Does anyone else have this problem and can it be remedied without replacing the entire top? I'm going to try velcro in the cavities where the roof clamps down per an earlier suggestion but I have little hope. I have tried putting a bath towel between the windshield and the roof and securing it there with the sun visors but that is really cumbersome. The weather stripping seems to be fine. Good thing it has a good heater!
  • susan_jsusan_j Member Posts: 2
    GOOD NEWS: even though the car was no longer covered by any warranty, Chrysler paid part of the cost of the window replacement as an act of goodwill.

    Thanks Chrysler!
  • asiangemasiangem Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible; it would rain inside of the car whenever I tried to wash it or use it in the rain.

    I had to replace all 5 major rubber window waterproofing seals on the car (one for the main front window, 4 for each driver and passenger front windows and rear windows.

    Then it still rained since the convertible top would not closed down completely where the handle clamps for the convertible.

    So my dealership technician at Buerge Ford in Los Angeles who is an angel, worked on it for several times, until he was able to adjust the tightness of the clamp and the top. I had to bring it in three times before he got it right.

    All I know that they did not buy any additional parts (once I bought the rubber windows seals) and worked on it so that it shut completely closed down on the rubber seals.

    It does not rain anymore inside my car. You have to be firm with the dealership and get them to fix it; also be nice to the technician who fixed it - it cost me alot of candy and cakes before he got it right.

    Asiangem :)
  • jasbyjasby Member Posts: 1
    Mine snows, too. I put liquid soap on the windshield header weather stripping and latched the top to see there the leak was. It seems the right side is tight (soap transferred to the Top), but not the left. I adjusted the hook as tighly as possible and even wound some Velcro around the hook (a suggestion I found on line), but it still leaks air and, I assume, snow or rain. It is still primarily on the left side. The shop manual shows an adjustment the will move the top header forward. I have not tried this yet, but I suspect that this is what asiagem's mechanic did, or one of the other adjustments described in the shop manual.

    Another poster suggested removing the hook (it screws out after removing the small lock screw) and grinding off the end so it can be screwed in even more than it can be now, but there is a limit to how much the threads on the hook will allow it to go into the holder. I also have a 97 and have never had a problem with is, but I think the securing mechanism is different.
  • tvashontvashon Member Posts: 1
    Purchased new Aug. 2010. Its a soft top. Its in the shop for the 3rd time. The top slides down fine but the deck lid will not close. Same problem all 3 times. Is this a common problem ? The first 2 times the dealer replaced a solenoid. I planned on keeping this car forever not so sure now. I do love it though. No other problems so far. Thanks.
  • pkacarspkacars Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Sebring that can put the top down easily with the switch, but to put the top up, I have to hold the button down and have someone get out and manually shut it, any suggestions on why this is?
  • bubyvabubyva Member Posts: 1
    I recently acquired a 2000 Sebring with the same problem..Is there a solution for this ? Top lowers fine on it's own but has to be helped in order to close..Please advise if you also have the same problem or a solution, Thanks..
  • walkernywalkerny Member Posts: 1
    On the flickering oil light, given the age of your vehicle it could be sludge retarding oil flow out of the sump. No mechanic, just past experience. I'd use a sludge flush run through the engine, and them immediately change the oil & filter.
  • dogglb_91dogglb_91 Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing a water leak at the rear window seal of my 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The top is otherwise in pretty good condition. I would like to know if there is an effective way to re-seal the convertible top canvass to the rear glass to eliminate the leak or if it would be better to replace the existing convertible top. I would also like to know how to replace the top. Please advise.

    Thanks for your time and support.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,142
    You might check the discussion specific to Sebring Water Leaks. I believe that several of them are about the top leaking.

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  • illpapaillpapa Member Posts: 1
    2000 jxi sebring convertable Got water slushing in rear fender. Anyone know how to drain water?
  • kinzerkinzer Member Posts: 2
    I canjust about guarantee you have debris clogging your drains on your rocker panels.....my 98 sebring had the same thing. they are designed to allow water 'inside the body', but it goes to kind of a gutter and drips out...you probably got trach in there blocking the drains.....

    mine originally clogged from the back window breaking and the shards of glss blocked the holes...but road gunk can splach up there too.

    there are a few holes right under the door, between the tires...
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    illpapa, here's something one of our members posted in the Sebring Water Leaks forum - just click the link to get there.

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  • hollib1hollib1 Member Posts: 1
    looking for info on the Chrysler Sebring Convertible tops heard that the vinyl ones crack really easy and if they are fix able or expensive to replace Is cloth better
  • liza_diaz16liza_diaz16 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99' Sebring Convertible(Great shape, only 50,000 miles on it-bought it 3 yrs ago with only 21,000 miles!) with the camel colored vinyl top, it's not garaged so it has been hit by the elements for the past 3 yrs. The seams on the side close to the top of the side windows is unraveling on both sides, I dont have leakage problems just noise on the side between the front passenger and driver side windows that come in contact with the soft top. Also my rear window has separated from the convertible top(outside only-no leaks that I am aware off). Any special adhesive I should use to bond it back together? And the seams, should I attempt to sew it back together myself? If anyone has had these problems, how did you come about fixing it and what were the costs? I know a brand new convertible kit is about $300-$500...is it worth buying a new one...? Not sure if I'm keeping the car or selling it to buy a new vehicle. I'd hate not getting the value's worth because of these issues =/
  • iamrobinsoniamrobinson Member Posts: 2
    Any success stories on re-attaching the rag top to the rear window?

    The body shop said not a chance and quoted me $1200.00 for a complete new top?

    My solution is:

    JB Weld (glue) the rag top to the window again.
    That would take some trim part removal to free the rag top from the car.

    Do a visual where the ragtop was attached window.

    Create an Inside and Outside, "Border One" with Duct Tape : Masking off the area on the rear glass that I will apply glue too. That should keep excessive glue from getting on the glass.

    Create an Inside and Outside, "Duct Tape Fastner" : Create a "large Bandage", Over lap 4 or 5 strips of duct tape to create a really wide "duct tape fastner"

    Attach the duct tape fastner to the ragtops outside edge. Only attaching half the width of the "duct tape fastner" to the edge. The remaining half should is used to secure the ragtop back to the rear window.

    Apply the glue to the rear window area, apply glue only to the area masked off by Border One.

    Then stretch the rag top back to the glue on the bottom of the rear window.

    Complete the outside process by working the ragtop edge into the glue on the window; using the "duct tape fastner" to hold the ragtop in place until the glue cures.

    Repeat the process for the inside of the ragtop.

    Please reply with insight into:

    Type of adhesive or fastners you would use to achieve a fix.
    Removing trim work around the back of the car where top meets the car.
    And any other constructive thought you may have.

    Thank-you in advance for your time and any replies;

    Jack
  • 93buicklesabre93buicklesabre Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Sebring Limited Convertible that has a leaking problem at the rear window and where it meets the windshield. I am not sure what is causing this problem because the car was garage kept until I bought it 8 months ago. The top is in pristine condition and not sure why it is leaking. We had 5" or rain one week and I found about a gallon of water where the convertible top folds into, I also had water run in from the corners in the front where it connects with the windshield. I really dont like getting wet when I drive. I need to know if it is because the top isnt securing tight to the windshield. If that is the problem how do I adjust the hooks to make it seal better in the front? Also what could be the culprit of it at the back window?

    Any answers will help I just need to know because this car is in Mint condition with 65k on the mileage.
  • iamrobinsoniamrobinson Member Posts: 2
    Keep searching the forum. There are some insights into the drain system for the top. There are drain holes in the frame that clog according to some other postings.

    Good Luck on your repair; post your resolution when you have one.

    I'm still soliciting ideas for a fix on my problem at the moment.

    Regards,

    Jack
  • jbuscjbusc Member Posts: 11
    I have two questions which any assistance would be much appreciated - regarding my 2001 Sebring LXi Convertible
    1) Can someone tell me what size set-screws go in the convertible top latches to hold the "J" hooks in place? I've called 2 Chrysler parts departments and they only sell the complete latch assemblies, where my latches just have the treaded holes for the set screws, but the screws themselves are missing - so my "J" hooks (which attach to the windshield header) rotate with them.
    2) My top folds down easily with a touch of the button, but it can sometimes be difficult to raise back up - the motor seems strong, I suspect it might be the switch - could I be on the right track with that assumption?
    Thank You
    Jim in Maynard, MA
  • dawnb97355dawnb97355 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Sebring convertible and the top is fine, its just the edging around the edges of the windows that is coming apart and pulling away from the main body of the top? Does anyone have any idea?
  • jbuscjbusc Member Posts: 11
    Mine did the same thing so I thought I would replace the top switch - however when I pulled off the switch panel (bezel) I found what the problem was - the plastic clips that hold the switch in place (to the bezel) had broken and was not holding the switch in place properly when pushing it forward to close. As soon as I replaced the bezel the problem was solved. Takes less than 5 minutes and you can do it yourself. Hopefully that's all it is in your case too.
  • 0926rsiv0926rsiv Member Posts: 1
    1. 75,000 miles and convertible fails. Dealership: $1,800 to repair. Need to replace entire unit. Bundled part alone is $1,200. Out of warranty. Serviced vehicle every 3,000 miles. No reason but shabby car. Bought car for convertible. Does not function. Piece of junk.

    2. Since 50,000 miles, dashboard/cluster lights do not work but for occasional flicker. Drive in the dark of all mph, fuel levels, etc. at night. Use flashlight. Dealership: $700 to repair. Bundled part problem again. Not fuse. Not electrical. Failure. Driving in trash can.

    No remedy but lawsuit which is absurdly expensive and time consuming. Don't buy American ever. I bought this vehicle over the Solaria solely due to patriotism. Never ever again buy American.
  • jbuscjbusc Member Posts: 11
    I can understand your frustration and even perhaps your need to vent, however a car is a machine and machines do break down whether they are domestics or imported vehicles. When you say "convertible fails" do you mean that the top is not working? If that is the case "servicing" your car every 3,000 miles probably has nothing to do with that- especially if by servicing you are speaking on engine oil changes. As far as imports fairing better - my wife serviced her Luxury Import every 3,000 miles and that didn't prevent her expensive import's engine dying from sludge not once but twice. I only mention that as evidence that problems arise with all automobiles no matter where they are made. As far as Sebrings go - I love mine and will continue to buy "American" cars if I so desire. In fact my last convertible was a Saab 9-3 and I actually prefer my Sebring over my Saab. The Saab was a fine car, but the Sebring is more enjoyable to drive and far more comfortable for me. Again I am truly sorry you've experienced these problems with your Sebring perhaps you could post more details about what the problem is.
  • charlessrcharlessr Member Posts: 11
    in my case..it was the left cylinder tht needed replacement...a $300 bill locally
  • jcummins1jcummins1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Chrysler SEbring convertable, my roof rattles once I latch it down. I have adjusted the latch hooks to there max, and still have rattleing (although reduced). I noticed that the latch placement seats have come loose or moved out from the top of windshield ( were the pins seat). Is there a way to correct this?
  • windy10windy10 Member Posts: 2
    I have had my 2001 Sebring Ltd for 4 years. It is quieter than the JXI on the highway, but I need to make quite a few long road trips soon and I would like to dramatically reduce the wind noise. I have tightened the screws to the top. Can it be resealed? Any other tips?
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Hey, windy10 -- The tip's a few years old but it looks like Velcro worked for some of the folks here:
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f6882/12#MSG12
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f6882/27#MSG27

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  • erickgaona17erickgaona17 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2006 Sebring, Touring, convertible... When I try to fold the top back, it stalls and slowly bends back down in despite of pressing the button to fold. Im thinking it has to do with the hydraulics but I'm not sure. Can anybody help?
  • sebring2001rosebring2001ro Member Posts: 1
    Please help me. I have the same problem and it s raining a lot now in Bucharest-Romani...I love my car but it is semlling like hell and I cannot enjoy my car anymore becaose the water in the back. Did you find any solution? I thought it is a problem at the rear glass. but it seems to be a problem few cm lower, with the material...thank you. my email is [email protected]
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    A lot of folks were able to cure the issue by clearing clogged drains. rbender provided detailed photos in this post:
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f68aa/146!vuserName=rbender

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  • chakingchaking Member Posts: 2
    The flickering oil light is a bad oil sending unit. its probably leaking also
  • rainbowmanfanrainbowmanfan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Sebring Limited convertible that I bought new. Has been the best car I have ever owned. My only complaint is that when the top is up and especially in cold weather, the side windows rattle incessantly. This is quite annoying. Does anyone have any ideas for a solution to this problem.
  • charlessrcharlessr Member Posts: 11
    I had(have) an very annoying rattle....on any bumpy street....used velcro in both place where top does into panel....(in front) ....helps a lot....generally I often take the top and pull it to the right(manually) as it is going down to align it properly..again this helps love the car ...we have had several sebring..this is a 2002 LLXI which we have had since 2003....was thinking about buying a mustang...but, despite the negative reviews, we have no had any problem with Chrysler..maybe we will get a 200
  • machineman1machineman1 Member Posts: 1
    Ive had a 2004,2008 and now a 2009 touring conv(all soft tops) All in all this is a good car for the money.I have 90K on it now with very few issues.one issue is the squeeky top. The new design 2008 and up if better than the earlier versions. a lot of people complain about.dont waste your time and effort trying to fix it,just part of what most american convertibles are all about. The squeeks and rattles are usually very minor,but they are there.Aside from that its a very quite car for a convertible.We live in AZ and have the top down every day,and up and down at least half a dozen times a day.
    problems to look out for
    1- These cars have some electrical gremlims (like the radio that cuts out for a second when putting the top up or down) and the micro switches for the top stop working suddenly and then reset in a little while and work again. hopefully these happen when the top is either all the up or down. I would not bother to try and repair that issue unless it stops for good. Ours has done this on both the 08 and 09 for most of the 90K miles we put on them.
    The front strut mounts tend to go bad,then you get a little rattle in the front end,change the struts and the mounts
    The 2.7 has a sludge issue,especially the earlier versions. I use full synthetic and change every 4000 miles
    also. make sure you change "all" the fluids every 50K max, trans fluid,ps fluid,coolent,brake fluid. Do this and you shoud get 150-175k out of the car. this is the most important thing you can do
    Brakes- The brake system on this car really sucks.The rotors go out of round very easily when they overheat just once. I get my brakes at brake masters.lifetime on the pads,1 year on the rotors. after about 35K you will need new front pads, then new rotors at about 50 or 60.if you get the brakes don,make sure they have at least a year warranty against the rotors getting out of round.they should turn the rotors for free up to a year
    Thats all I can think of, hope this helps
  • pmemrickpmemrick Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I just replaced my 2001 convertible hydraulic pump and ram cylinders with a used unit from ebay.
    It's a larger unit than the original, if that's any help. Anyway, it works great, but the cylinder travel for putting the top up is not as far as the old ones. I have to pull the top down to latch it and I'm afraid there might be some difficulty with it since I'm not the primary driver.

    Is there a way to adjust the travel on the rams or adjust the limit switch on the motor? Or did I just waste my money on a replacement?

    Thanks for your expertise!

    Paul
  • bwoelbling32bwoelbling32 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 sebring convertible, which is in great shape, and the top is in good condition. I have never noticed it leaking when it rained, but yesterday, after nonstop rain for most of the day before, the floor on the driver's side was full of water in both the front and back seats. I have no idea where the water came in, or what can be done to correct the problem. Has this happened to anyone else, and if so, do you know how to fix it?
  • windy10windy10 Member Posts: 2
    I have had that issue on my 99. It was resolved by tightening the screws near the latch hooks. Also check for wear and cracking on the rubber seals around the windows. I don't know why it came in the floor boards, but it happened twice and then never happened again.
  • drovkadrovka Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Sebring JXI and the drivers side metal scissor bracket is broken. dealer will only sell entire new top or new car. am just looking for scissor bracket and installation instructions.
  • papaccpapacc Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2008 hard top convertable. when the hard top closes, the sizzors mechacism on the side of the HT catches the headliner, twists it up, and breaks the rear "package tray" in the back by the attaching straps. this has happened twice at a cost of 300-500 dollars! anyone else with this problem? did chrysler pay for this design problem?
    JCC
  • rosie58rosie58 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible and over the last few weeks there have been torrential rains. Now when I drive the car, there is what sounds like a very large body of water somewhere in the car; it is beginning to smell moldy and there is water on the floor. I also noticed there was condensation on the inside of the rear window. If anyone has had this problem, where would the water be and what do I do?
  • dan_chdan_ch Member Posts: 1
    Try to lift your car somewhere and look for a hose or opening somewhere close to the left rear fender. There is a train hose or something which is clogged. try to use a wire or even pressed air to clean this hose. Be aware that many liters of dirty water will pouring out.
    Let the window open for air circulation if possible to let the car try out afterwards before you got mildew and stuff.
    Good luck.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    edited November 2013
    Quite a few members have had water issues, Rosie -- check this link to see more info clearing the drain dan_ch mentioned: Chrysler Sebring Water Leaks

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  • cbarefoot82cbarefoot82 Member Posts: 1
    there are water channels below your doors on the underside of the rocker panels and one on each side of the windshield in the center of the pillars... make sure they're not bent shut or pinched off or full of debris... a simple flat head screw driver will safice for the bottom ones just put it in the (slots) channels and free up any debris.... use a wire hanger for the top ones (if its a convertible) lower your top and on each side of the windshield right next to where the top latches are there's a hole in the center of the rubber... just push the hanger down as far as you can and pull it back up out.. do it a couple times but make sure you remove it when you're finished
  • ashsvxashsvx Member Posts: 1
    2004 Chrysler Sebring LXI convertible 6cyl 2.7L

    Purchased at 93k miles now at 104,443.
    93k miles valve gasket (rear/upper) cracked + top goes down slowly, drops at end, and won't go back up via switch. Ball joints failed on way home from purchasing car, could barely steer and had to pull over at toll booth. Had fixed by mechanic got ho reinstalled struts backwards......
    95k miles front struts crooked and bent had to be replaced. Alignment.
    97k miles car randomly wouldn't steer AT ALL, engine light came, had to pull off and then be followed by another vehicle while I drove 10mph back home bc steering was so unstable. Threw codes saying system running too rich and throttle body/MAFS, 02 sensor, whatnot had errors. Replaced PCV valve, air filter, cleaned throttle body, replaced spark plugs + gasket cover + seals. Cleaned cylinders. MAFS, MAPS replaced. Car ran good drove good still threw P0172 even after engine light reset or something like that? System too rich.. then suddenly engine light went away and code wasn't being thrown anymore.
    Tranny slips in 3rd gear by 100k miles.
    Turned right onto road and car stalled out, went over median and sat there. Started car back up and it drove fine. That's when I discovered windshield leak, cracked oil pan, cracked valve gasket cover AGAIN, oil leaks all over everything and back struts are now worse.
    99k miles passenger side rear window doesn't like to go up, drivers side window leaks rain if it POURS, seems to be coming from corner where windshield + window + door meet. Doesn't leak when lightly raining.
    101k miles battery dropped to 6.5V, died randomly and wouldn't start via jumpstart. Continuously revved and attempted to start back to back until it did. Let run for 20 mins turned off and tried to turn back on.. wouldn't start. 3 hours later car starts and has full 14V battery again. Has been running since.
    103k miles lights inside flicker slightly when headlights/high beams on and occasionally my air will blow out of dash vents and not front vents, and warm. Then glitches back to blowing cold air thru vents (I use the far left "cycle cold air in car" ac option) but I also live in FL... Which leads me tooooooo: undercarriage drain holes were clogged on passenger side and ac had a clog so water started filling passenger side floor undee carpet. Clog was cleaned and ac doesn't glitch anymore and floor is dry once again (RIP with all the mold/mildew tho...)
    104k miles truck started swerving into my lane as if I wasnt there 11pm middle of nowhere. I swerve left into median and tires lose traction. I spun 360 over and over, brakes were locked up, I pulled e brake and was thrown sideways and backwards down ditch into lake. Started to flip onto drivers side in waist deep water, but passenger side fell back down. Air bags did not deploy WHEN THEY SHOULDVE. Back right tire broke, tire laid crooked in wheel well but still connected. Still drives and steers but grinds, able to be towed out and drive car into a straight position for tow truck. Seems to be stabilizer bar snapped, steering knuckle/ball joint bent, heat shield around rotor bent up into rotor disc but I used plyers to bend it back into shape (as best as I could as it cracked the shield on the backside when the lip was bent up -- bottom lip of disc) and strut/shock bent (grinding sound) so all needs replacing -- and as usual, gotta mirror any work done on left back tire too 🙄 so.
    Tire erosion/bent rim on left/right inner tire from weight of car on tire from car, bc stabilizer bar/tie rod snapped. All lights work even tho hood was in water up to headlights (submerged and left me in complete darkness which is why I remember) and everything seems clean. Pending mechanic inspection to make sure no water/muck in anything important, and the like.. will update.
  • MichaellMichaell Moderator Posts: 239,550
    @oldfarmer50 - anything you can contribute?

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