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Any idea's on where to start ? I want a rough idea before I take it in to the dealership ..... thanks !
Help
Thanks
Margie
replaced battery - that was good for a week but i think it's daed now. replaced the starter - and i do believe the old one was bad. this one will crank - if i bypass the ignition switch but vehicle will not start. dash is totally dead. needles use to jump now and then when dash worked. wondering if dash problems related to car not starting. reigning theories now if that the ignition needs replacing and that my key might be bad. i've seen tons of these posts in here but never any solution. i'd be happy to install a starter button just to drive it so i can trade it in. for you foglight problem people - i pulled that fuse years ago.
all fuses are ok. is there a fusible link in the pt?
tia!
I'll report back if anything gets this P.O.S running again.
another mentions a fusible link to the alternator. I can just see the alternator. but i'll want a confirmation before i pull the motor out to look closer.
30 Amp fuse was making/breaking contact. It looked good visually and continuity check at one point was good but it was blown, ever so slightly. Suggestion for haunting syndrome of electrical problems: don't check the fuses, REPLACE THEM!
Would anyone happen to now what I can do without having to go through the dealer and spending a crap load amount of money.
Oh also that new switch I bought is back in the box and if anyone wants to buy it let me know. I paid $37 for it and will sell it for $25; it cam straight from the dealer. :confuse:
When some problems are found, the computer lights up the "engine light;" others are ignored until a mechanic asks for them. The "engine light" stays on when a serious emissions or engine problem is found, until the code is erased.
Chrysler vehicles have a "limp in" mode which reverts to a pre-programmed "guessing map" for timing, fuel delivery, etc. when a critical sensor fails. Those who have been in other cars when their oxygen sensor failed can feel grateful for this feature, though it can be confusing - for example, in some (maybe all) models, the automatic transmission is limited to second gear! The engine light also turns itself on for two seconds every time the car is started so you will know the bulb still works.
The "engine light" may shut itself off if there are no problems for three consecutive trips, or three consecutives engine misfire or fuel system tests with no problems.
To get the codes, move the key from Run to Off to Run to Off to Run within five seconds. It does not always work the first time. (Run is JUST before Start). The code will show up in the odometer - thank your lucky stars for this, since the codes used to get blinked on the engine light. Alan Borgolotto noted that “if you do it too quickly it doesnt work (got to wait to see the odometer light up” and that if you have no codes, the odometer will say “done.”
Another method which may in most cars just test the instrument panel is to put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number and some other, irrelevant information, then show the error codes starting with P. Note that this method may not work. It's easier but not necessarily better.
You can also get the codes using an OBDC III scan tool. That's the best way to do it, but not everyone wants to spend the cash on these tools.
No matter which method you use, some codes will not appear - codes specific to Chrysler such as individual transmission malfunction codes. Dealers and some specialty shops can get these using a terribly expensive scan tool.
Information source: http://www.mypage.onemain.com/gh1006517/ptcruiser/diagnostics.htm (may no longer be up)
The codes and what they meanNot all codes are relevant to the PT Cruiser! Codes may start with a "P" in your odometer.
Code What it means
30 Sensor heater relay problem
36 Sensor heater relay problem
106 MAP sensor voltage out of range detected at startup
107 MAP sensor voltage too low
108 MAP sensor voltage too high
112 Intake air temperature sensor voltage low
113 Intake air (charge) temperature sensor voltage high
116 Coolant temparature sensor reading doesn't make sense
117 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage low
118 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage high
121 Throttle position sensor and MAP sensor disagree with each other
122 Throttle position sensor voltage low
123 Throttle position sensor voltage high
125 Taking too long to reach proper operating temparature and switch to energy-efficient mode
129 Bad barometric pressure sensor (thanks, John King)
130 Sensor heater relay problem
131 Oxygen sensor seems to be shorted out or broken
147 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
151 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground?
152 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V?
153 Oxygen sensor response too slow
154 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement
155 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
157 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground?
158 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V?
159 Oxygen sensor response too slow
160 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement
161 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
171 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
172 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
174 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
175 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
176 Flex fuel sensor can't be seen
178 Flex fuel sensor problem
179 Flex fuel sensor problem
182 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
183 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
201 Injector #1 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
202 Injector #2 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
203 Injector #3 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
204 Injector #4 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
300 Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
301 Misfire detected in cylinder #1.
302 Misfire detected in cylinder #2.
303 Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
304 Misfire detected in cylinder #4.
320 Crankshaft position sensor reference signal cannot be found while the engine is cranking.
325 Knock sensor (#1) signal is wrong.
330 Knock sensor (#2) signal is wrong.
340 No camshaft signal being received by the computer
350 A coil is drawing too much current.
351 Coil #1 is not reaching peak current at the right time
352 Coil #2 is not reaching peak current at the right time
353 Coil #3 is not reaching peak current at the right time
354 Coil #4 is not reaching peak current at the right time
401 A required change in air/fuel mixture was not detected during diagnostic test.
403 An problem was detected in the EGR solenoid control circuit.
404 The EGR sensor's reported position makes no sense
405 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
406 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
412 The secondary air solenoid control circuit seems bad (this is used for the aspirator).
420 The catalyst seems inefficient (#1).
432 The catalyst seems inefficient (#2).
441 Evaporative purge flow system not working properly
442 A leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
443 Evaporative purge flow system solenoid not working
Oh quick question for you; I keep hearing that there are two fuse boxes in my car but can't find the other one for anything. I know of the one under the hood, but where's the second one? Would you happen to know? :confuse:
just LAST WEEK i finally got my problems fixed
after i replaced the battery, ignition module, two starters and the computer.
oh, and several tows home from Philly.
the battery cables were bad - specifically the positive cable. it looked good and i had plenty of power for lights - but not enough to the starter.
so far so good - AND it was under $100 for the cables - almost $200 for the diagnostics and the labor - BUT it's fixed - knock on wood!!!
GOOD LUCK!
Had starter replaced after it went out a couple of weeks after purchase. Then about 3 weeks ago, while leaving for work, it wouldn't go over 20mph. Tried turning around to go home and get my other car, but when I turned the corner, it seemed as though there was no power steering, then it died on the road in the left lane in the wrong direction. Couldn't get it started. turn the key, nothing. Finally got it started and backed out og the way and parked. Waited for my roommate to come by on his way home from work. He got in, it started up just fine, and drove just fine. Next day, drove it to work with roommate following me. Halfway, I came to a stop, and it died when I started accelarating. Couldn't get it to start, not even crank. Had it towed to my mechanic. He couldn't find anything wrong. For a week this happened, and luckily got it to the mechanic and he still couldn't find the problem. Last time it happened he found a wire going from the battery compartment that connects to another wire which goes to the "main power supply" was shorting out and losing connection. This fixed it for about a week and a half. Now this time, on 11/20/09, when I came to a stop light, it died when I tried to accelerate. I didn't even move, it just died. Couldn't get it started for about 20 minutes then it did start and I pulled over. Couldn't get it started the next day and had it towed. Now, my mechanic says that the "crankshaft sensor went bad" had it replaced and "computer still not reading engine trying to turn over". He tried everything and still nothing. Sometimes it cranks, sometimes nothing in both park and neutral. Now he's looking at hte wireing schematics to see if it will shine some light on it. Anyone else have any problems like this? I really love this car, when it runs and it runs great when it actually starts!!
the car runs fine- the stereo and air work - and the fuses have been checked and are fine. Please help !
When I parked the car, the interior light would remain on for a long time..as the car thought the hatch was still open. While driving the interior light would stay on as the car thought the hatch was open. This finally stopped, though the hatch open indicator light remained on. Once while driving the car would ding, and the interior light would come on briefly, and then go off. Then..it all stopped..everything is fine now, though I do not initiate the security system, as I don't want to get up in the middle of the night to disarm it. My fog lights quit working a long time ago, but would come on occasionally for no reason..I pulled the fuse.
Any idea what kind of electrical gremilins I have in my car?
2001 purchased in May 2000 135,000 miles
Carl
Replaced coil pack, plugs & #3 injector.
Smell gas with rough-ish idle. Runs fine otherwise.
What should I do next?
Thanks, Mike
Lost the gauges again yesterday. Disconnected and reconnected the battery and the gauges were again restored ....... but for how long until next time ...... ???
A mechanic on one of the web forums claiming to have some years of Chrysler service experience suggests it's likely a crack in the circuit board of the cluster and would require the whole unit to be replaced ..... UGH!! ..... probably $$$$!!
I hope this is a helpful observation for other owners.
***** PLEASE HELP ********
I've been reading your replies to individuals and I like that you are 'brutally honest' with them, it's a trait I emulate in abundance however I hope you can agree that PT convertibles are horribly made. If you can help me I will give you VIN #'s, whatever info you need. I am in a real pickle. I have 1 yr left to finance my 2005 PT that I put 6K down pymt on and it wont even start!!!! I have coddled and babied this car. Only servicing it at Chrysler dealerships--had "GO TOPLESS" airbrused on the back, totally pimped it out--i loved the way this car looked! Now, I am tempted to ruin my credit by having it voluntarily repossessed!!!!! I really dont want to deal with any of this nor can I afford to buy another car. The problem seems to be the PCM on my car however i would let you make that determination. My car was literally at the dealer 2 yrs ago for a MONTH AND A HALF while i had no rental even though my extended warranty from Chrysler allowed me one. During this month long venture my vehicle was supposedly given a new PCM chip which should've fixed the problem. :sick: I noticed the day i got it back that the fog light or light indicator on dash was still on when i got the car back but the dealer told me that it's fine and to never return to their dealership!! Now 2 yrs later the same symptoms my car had then is having all over again except this time it doesn't just stall, now it doesn't even start! My husband saw online that if you pull the 21 fuse it will start if the battery is not dead so we bought a new battery (3rd one so far) and tried it, it now works but everything electrical is just as messed up as it was when the PCM went a second time. Now I'd have to replace my power steering, my carlock key alarm system b/c locks me out of my car! etc, etc. This car is not even worth 3K so theres no way I'm paying a dealership who always lies to me to 'fix it' like they were supposed to the first time 2 yrs ago. HELP! (sorry for venting) :confuse:
I have begun a blog on this & it is posted at:
http://kimcady.blogspot.com
:mad: