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Jeep Liberty Transmission Problems

13

Comments

  • tjsnydertjsnyder Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know anything about the tranny not going into reverse or neutral but will go into drive! Also there is a wine when it goes into reverse only after sitting a while.
  • chase_n_louiechase_n_louie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 CRD 4x4. Check engine light came on last year, dealer claims EGR valve needs to be replaced. Replace it. Now, 15K miles later, check engine light comes on again - dealer again says EGR valve. I don't believe him, look at user forums and they are skeptical. 8 weeks later (this week) transmission fails in the middle of a highway in morning rush hour. Tow it to dealer. They ask if the EGR valve had been replaced, I told them no and then they said "well it could have been a transmission code" (Gee thanks). Will not let the dealer replace the transmission - car had been running beautifully up till then. Transmission service done last summer. Car has 124K miles on it - almost no towing miles (<100). Will a tranny really fail that early? So frustrated, love the car, particularly after 60" of snow in 5 days this winter, we were out and mobile, but do I really want to sink a bunch of $? Need to decide by Monday, any advice appreciated. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not sure how an EGR code could be mistaken for a Transmission code but....regardless, 125K is not really very premature for transmission failure. I mean, sure, some go further but 125K is a lot of miles---more like what you'd see on a 10 year old car. I don't see this as a "defect"--more like bad luck, and I'm sorry you have to bear this expense.

    In any event, your vehicle is still worth more than the cost of a new transmission---if you don't fix it, you'll get practically nothing for your trade-in.
  • shastagunschshastagunsch Member Posts: 1
    I have had my jeep liberty for 5 years now and while I really like it, all of the sudden things are starting to go wrong with it. First I had to have an entire new A/C put in. Now, I am hearing a loud rattle under the hood when I shift from Park to Reverse and let it coast. Once I shift from Reverse to Drive, the rattle goes away until I accelerate from a dead stop. Any ideas what this could be? I called the Jeep dealership, as they are looking at it today but they so far have not been able to find the cause. They say it has something to do with the transmission most likely. This is not under warranty and i'm terrified of the outcome.
  • bluehens09bluehens09 Member Posts: 1
    I got my transmission replaced on my 2003 Jeep Liberty. It seems to be working fine but I have noticed a slight problem when coming to a stop. When I come to a slow stop, the car feels as if it may stall but it doesn't. It doesn't happen all of the time but occasionally. I have had the car back for 4 days now, and it has happened maybe once or twice a day. Please let me know what you think! I live 3.5 hours away from where I got it repaired after breaking down!
  • sccziiscczii Member Posts: 2
    i have a 03 liberty with 133k miles. i think the tranny is slipping.. when i am at a stop lite and when i take off on a hard acceleration it hessates to go and : then it finally kicks in and goes but when i take off easy it dont seem to slip....and the mileage has gone down by 2mpg. is it my transmission or something else. has anyone else had this kinda problem. can anyone help me? it all started immediately right after the transmission fluid was changed. is there a code that has to be reset after the transmission fluid is changed ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Doesn't sound like the transmission, but rather an engine management or fuel delivery issue. You could scan the car's computer for codes---something might show up. When your transmission "slips", your tachometer needle shoots way up but your car goes nowhere.
  • sccziiscczii Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Mr.Shiftright. I'm going for oil change tomorrow. Will scan the computer code and let you know the result.
  • dkientzdkientz Member Posts: 1
    Mine has a back of the vehicle thumping knock when fast accelerating. No slippage or loss of power was noticed. And lately, when stopping fast, it would stop as usual until stopped or almost stopped, and then lurch forward several feet, with the brakes applied, and kill the engine.

    Its been at a mechanic's shop for 5 days now. It took 2 days to replicate the problem and the next to get it on a rack. They have tranny exposed, find only light metal shavings, and no visible problems or analytical solutions. All they have offered is a 3 grand replacement. But if they haven't found a problem yet, how does putting a new version of the same thing solve anything. That, and I don't have $3,000 to hope they get it right.
  • vamarinevamarine Member Posts: 2
    Jeep Liberty
    Dodge Caravan ETC ETC ETC..

    When will you people learn, American vehicles are junk, the dealerships put faulty transmissions in cars knowing it will go bad around the time your warranty goes out!

    The next year model car they will take that same faulty transmission and put it in a newer model to make money,,, If you have an extra 3000, for a transmission and 7000, to replace a motor every 3 or 4 years then keep on buying american!
  • vamarinevamarine Member Posts: 2
    SELL it now, the Liberty's also have major engine problems after about 100,000 miles! Google it if you dont believe me,, good luck! I would recommend a Honda CRV..
  • whitiefordwhitieford Member Posts: 8
    The problem is your motor mount is the culprit. I have two CRD Libertys and both have had that problem. Since your out of warrantee send your ECU to Green Diesel Engineering and have it reprogramed, be ready for ALOT of POWER and at least 5 mpg increase. See Eurekaboy.com for the window regulator web page, I've changed out all 2 on both Jeeps, put in a Provent Crankcase breather filters, Flowmax mufflers and Kennedy fuel pumps. Both are over 110k miles and we are so very happy with the little guys. Ours also tows a 23ft travel trailer all over the country. Oh I also went to the U pull-it Salvage yards and got two air boxes from gasers to aid in the air input system. You'll understand why the muffler once GDE reprograms your computer the stock sounds like it is going to blow a seam!
  • whitiefordwhitieford Member Posts: 8
    To you all, this is a motor mount/s what is happening is accelerating the engine is lifting and the plates are rattling same goes at idle, raise the hood have a spouse or friend put in drive, insure the emergency brake is on. and step gently on the accelerator the engine may rise, if not that mount is good. Now try reverse and perform the same task you should see it. Nothing about todays mechanics, but I grew up with chugs, go-carts, hot rods and some things never change, and of course guess what NO DARN COMPUTER CODE! As for your shifting put in a transgo shift kit, have the little darling reprogramed by GDE ( Green Diesel Engineering) and your shifting will go away, here again the programing to lower the engine torque on the T/C Torque Converter to save it causes the TC to search for the little guy doesn't now have the umph to push it through. You have to understand the TC came from Dodge Hemi powered cars and 1/2 ton trucks, but to keep costs down the TC is not the one behind those engines. The upgrade is just that one of the correct TCs. Have a good day.
  • cartercan2cartercan2 Member Posts: 1
    have a 2005 jeep liberty 78,000 mile. last week started with a loud sound almost a rumble when u hit 50 mph( not grinding) mid vehicle. The vehicle is well maintained not used off road, occ tows a boat short distance. transfer case appears to have some fluid on the bottom side. will check fluid tomorrow need allen wrench. any suggestions?
  • jeep2crdsjeep2crds Member Posts: 1
    I also have 2 crds. My wife's is currently appearing to have tranny issues. SHe had some extremely loud noise and she says the rpm went to 5K, ouch. Fortunately she noticed and drove it home at a reduced RPM. Have you had any tranny issues?

    I am out odf state right now so I can't check it out myself.
  • spoograbspoograb Member Posts: 6
    Hi all, I have a 2008 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4 3.7L 4 Speed Auto. I bought it back in October as a certified preowned with 25k miles. Now at 30k, I am noticing the transmission from 1st to 2nd shifts roughly. This wasn't happening as much before and it really only happens when the vehicle has been driven for 15 minutes or so. I live in New England and the temps are still fairly cool (40s/20s) so I'm not sure why this is. I talked to the dealer several times about it and they said because I came from an 08 Honda Civic transmission, I was not used to Jeep transmissions and that they are supposed to be rough. I'm basically posting this to find out if anyone else has this sort of an "issue" with their transmission only shifting into 2nd gear? And is this something I should be concerned about? The transmission warranty expires at 80k and probably won't be keeping the vehicle past 60k or so.

    Thanks!
  • marckymarcky Member Posts: 12
    Not sure if this is helpful. I own a 2005 libery limited crd 78k miles. Recently had the same problem and the ECM threw two codes: first code was transmission control module and the second was related to rapid changes in transmission fluid temp. The dealer replaced a line pressure switch and everything is back to normal. Shifts are normal.

    Now however I am having trouble with the transfer case. 2wd is fine. 4wd full time cause the vehicle to grind to a halt. I can only describe the feeling as though the brakes are applied. I can push the accelerator and move the vehicle but it resists forward motion and quickly comes to a complete stop upon releasing the accelerator pedal. Anyone have thoughts on this one? I know that the NV242 transfer case has a planetary gear to allow the front and rear shafts to spin at different speeds while in full-time 4wd. Could this planetary gear be buggerred up?
  • msapamsapa Member Posts: 1
    Check your transmission cooling lines for leaks.
  • whitiefordwhitieford Member Posts: 8
    Hello,

    If you want not to put the money into a SunCoast T/C and Transgo shift kit be prepared to be dealing with problems. The 545 transmission was designed for a 6 or 8 cyclinder engine and definitely not one with the torque of a Hemi, but a Hemi is 8 cylinders=4 power strokes and a 6 cylinder = 3 power strokes of torque/power to the TC and onto the transmission as a whole. The CRD Mighty Mite is 4 cylinders =2 slam dunk of pure torque/power to the TC = to a 4 stroke Hemi in the power range. Not hard to understand why the TC's fail, even the recall replacement better but won't last. Now, I'm sorry I forgot to mention this and try this out, put a car ramp under the front wheel and back wheel have someone watch for you when your centered up on both and stop, emergency brake. I've seen this on alot of cars not just our beloved CRDs (most of the time) reach around near the top from the driver's side you will find the transmission breather laying "FLAT". Cut the hose directly behind it and go to the auto parts purchase 6 feet of same size hose and a junction connector/splice connector. Now run the hose first down from the engine compartment route the hose to stay away from sharp and hot items, zip tie here and there, put the union connector and hose you purchased into the transmission breather line ( Dawn soap works great for this task) then I tied ours off onto the brake line box just infront on the firewall on the drivers side as it should be "VERTICAL". Now unplug the battery clean the MAP sensor check Eurekaboy.com for this. Good luck I have alot more to say for mods I've performed and researched 33.5 mpg in town, it'll take 2 years to break even but the little pains and some larger are all gone 1 year and not even a hickup.
  • whitiefordwhitieford Member Posts: 8
    I just worked on a friends CRD and it had nothing to do with the transfer case, I found the Turbo Charger failed. I inquired with them both were they performing cool down of 3min from 1800 rpm and greater and pre- warming when 45 degrees colder outside temp for over a min, they weren't. I had to clean the inter-cooler, intake manifold, and EGR. The new Turbo also comes with a flex cooling line. Here is a old military trick for deactivating a turbo that is starting to fail and you can get yourself home and no damage. Take some heavy aluminum cooking foil fold into four sheets thick. Loosen the turbo tube on the passenger side inter-cooler then wrap the inter-cooler like a bowl nice and tight now put the hose back on the turbo is now inop.
  • ginette3737ginette3737 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,i just bought my first Jeep Liberty (2007).I had the same problem as yours,the truck won't back up while turning the wheels when i'm in Part Time.It grinds and makes all kinds of awful sounds,i have to press heavily on the gas pedal and then it starts to move 10 inches at the time...When i try to go forward while turning to park the Jeep into a parking space...the same crap happens.

    Have you ever found out what the problem is?Should i be worry?

    Thanks,

    Ginette
    Ajax,Ontario,Canada
  • jtcorbinjtcorbin Member Posts: 1
    Is there more than one line pressure switch? if so which one did they replace? My son is having the same problem with his Liberty.
  • marckymarcky Member Posts: 12
    The t-case wasn't the challenge. My lever wasn't putting the t-case into full-time 4wd and I was feeling bind. All is well now. Issue resolved.

    Tranny is a different story, I got to 87K miles and the transmission is now (once again) shifting hard from 2-3rd gear (at approximately 20MPH under light-to-moderate accelaration). It also "bangs" into drive when I move the shift selector to "D". I pulled the codes and one was tranny overheat and the other was the generic TCU code.

    Has anyone had this issue? Am I looking at a bad wiring harness or a bad TCU or both?

    Thanks for any guidance.
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks again to all the regular contributers to this Great Forum. I have done most of the maintenance and repairs on my Jeep myself with some help from this forum and my Factor Service Manuals (Hard Copy Books & CD).

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD - 129k miles, stock everything, original EGR, second engine block/head/turbo/water pump at 40k miles. I plan to change my timing belt before winter and would appreciate some suggestions about what else I shoud do to maximize the life and performance of my gutsy little diesel.

    It seems like a good idea to disable the EGR before it creates the big problems some people have reported. There are a few other upgrades that sound worthwhile like the Pro-Vent system. I can't do everything of course, but I am willing to spend about $1,000.00 this time to buy a little peace of mind. I will do all the labor myself with the help of my diesel mechanic brother-in-law.

    My transmission has so many miles on it, I am reluctant to invest in a shift kit or other upgrade. No doubt it will need a total rebuild in the not so distant future, but it is working great now. Should I consider replacing fuel injectors or glow plugs or just wait for them to fail?
  • riverwestriverwest Member Posts: 1
    The shifter goes all the way from park to 1st and back to park without pushing in the button. Also when I put it in park it will not allow me to remove the ignition key. If I remember correctly you are supposed to push the little button on the front of the shifter to get out of park and past drive and back into park again. This just happened out of the blue when moving the vehicle in my driveway.
    Any ideas on how to fix this would be great. Especially if I can do this myself.
  • sjmartin86sjmartin86 Member Posts: 1
    First time poster here so hope someone can help. I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited 4WD and my wife was driving down the highway doing 65 and it jerked hard and when she pushed on the accelerator it just reved up like it was in neutral. She pulled to the median and called me i told her to try pulling it into first and it would pull a little but was bogging the engine down so then i told her to put it in 4wheel hi and the front tires started spinning like they were trying to pull the jeep by themselves. So long story short i got off work checked it out and it will not do anything in reverse but in drive it tries to pull but boggs engine and hesitates. Please anyone give me some idea if its tranny or transfer case or something else
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Gee I wonder if you busted a differential....
  • marckymarcky Member Posts: 12
    The diff is fine.

    Around 79K miles, the TCM was throwing several codes and they replaced part # 4799758-ad sensor. Apparently this is the one and only, but I am not a tranny expert (obviously from my other posts). The replaced line pressure sensor resolved my problems for about 9K miles.

    Now at 88K miles, I am getting P0700 (MIL request from TCM) and P0714 (transmission internal temp sensor intermittent).

    I am looking at the service manual for the 545RFE. Can anyone verify/validate for me that the internal fluid temp sensor is integrated into the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)? if this is true, it looks like I would have to pull the valve body.... but is the TRS integrated into the valve body (i.e. do I have to purchase the whole valve body new) or is the TRS a replaceable/separate component?

    Does this make sense?

    *update* crap, looks like a $380 part and few hours of wrench-time, correct?
  • marckymarcky Member Posts: 12
    edited October 2011
    I forgot one very important note to my last post.

    I bought a ODB-II code reader, when my tranny started acting up around 88K miles. When I reset the codes, the transmission shifts like it just "rolled off the factory line."

    It might be two minutes, two hours, or two days later; and it sets P0700 and P0714 agains and starts shifting roughly.

    Rinse and repeat. Same random results.

    Is there a way to splice a resistor into one for the wires from the 24-pin connector an send the TCM the expected voltage, all of the time? I know that's some serious stupid-engineering... but it drives very well WHEN the codes aren't set.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh I was replying to someone else's problem, not yours.
  • kdgjeepkdgjeep Member Posts: 1
    I have 2004 Liberty, simliaar thing happened. It ended up that the throttle sensor was gone and resulted in burning out the clutches in the tranny. Long story short 57k miles and a 2250.00 bill for a new transmission! I was not thrilled. This happen this week, Wish you luck.
  • rileycentralrileycentral Member Posts: 3
    Hi there. I come seeking your advice. My 2004 Liberty seems to have a bad clutch. It has 78K miles on it and I have never done any sort of service on the clutch. I am not sure if it could be the transmission which is why I came here hoping you might help me.

    It was loping for a couple days in the lower gears after the clutch was disengaged. Then finally, it wouldn't pull the car at all in any gear.

    The dealer wants $1200 to replace everything (his words) and $900 to just replace the clutch. My questions are these:

    1) What does a clutch problem look like as opposed to a transmission problem?

    -and-

    2) Have you seen this sort of problem resolved and if so, how?

    Best regards,

    Damien Riley
    car info:
    Make: Jeep
    Model: 2004 KJ Liberty 2WD
    Transmission: Manual
    Engine Size: Basic
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you mean you could put the car in 1st gear easily, lift on the clutch, and the car didn't move, then yeah, you need a clutch and maybe a flywheel resurface.

    If you mean you can't GET it into any gear anymore, then you may only need a clutch hydraulics overhaul, which is a lot cheaper.
  • rileycentralrileycentral Member Posts: 3
    Thanks a lot. It does go into gear and not slip out. BUT, it does not disengage and move the car. Does this sound at all like a transmission thing? What would the differences be in symptoms? My instinct tells me it is a clutch replacement thing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to say not being there myself. Maybe the transmission shift linkage has fallen apart but I doubt it's an internal transmission problem.
  • marckymarcky Member Posts: 12
    OK, I have discerned a pattern during which the P0714 code get's set. It occurs under two conditions:

    1) Leave the truck idling in Park for 8-12 minutes. This is 100% repeatable.
    2) Operate the vehicle with the Air Conditioning running on the road for more than 10 minutes. About 80% repeatable.

    Ambient temp doesn't seem relevant, nor does driving conditions (city vs. highway).

    Any thoughts?

    -Marc

    PS I am strongly considering pulling the Internal Temp sensor wire and feeding the TCM a false 15ma value :-). The tranny runs fine, once the codes are reset.
  • rileycentralrileycentral Member Posts: 3
    Thanks so much. I feel this is a clutch issue and so I am having the mechanic repair it completely for $900 +tax. I know it is steep but I am confident it will solve the problem since I had a similar problem years back with a geo metro.

    I appreciate your input in helping me understand that it was a clutch issue.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    maybe you should shop around for clutch prices. This seems too high to me.
  • kelly68kelly68 Member Posts: 2
    My transmission will not engage in any gear, backed out of driveway pulled forward 30 feet and put in park ran into the house with vehicle running, came out a minute later engaged in drive and it would not move, the same in all positions. Checked the switch lever ok, fluid is fine and the transmission had not been acting up. scan tool gives me a P0841 reading, changed the pressure switch sensor and no change. My next guess is the pump? Any ideas on what the problem is or suggestions on what actions to take next.
  • marckymarcky Member Posts: 12
    Without a pressure test, impossible to say about the pump. They don't tend to fail catastrophically, rather they fail over time.

    Do you have the 45RFE tranny?

    This one needs a pro. My non-pro guess is that a pressure control device is failed in the closed state.... and pressure is not being passed.
  • kelly68kelly68 Member Posts: 2
    Yes I do have the 45RFE tranny, and I tend to agree with the pump failure so abruptly. My next thought is to get a pressure test done.

    Thanks for your information
  • rabertrabert Member Posts: 2
    Have you resolved this? I am having the same identical symptoms. Thanks
  • marckymarcky Member Posts: 12
    For now, I am using a work-around. I have a $50 code reader /resetter. If it set the code, I pull over, shut down, reset the codes, start up and drive off as-normal.

    While this work-around is annoying, it works and costs me nothing.

    If I get resolution, I will post it.
  • hollyj1hollyj1 Member Posts: 2
    This morning i was driving to work and i realized my gas pedal felt stuck to the floor, I couldn't get up to any amount of speed and then my tranny light came on. I managed to putt back home with it and it started accelerating on it's own and i had to slam the brakes on and the back tires just kept spinning. When i went into park the engine reved up really high so i just shut it off. Any ideas?
  • zach79zach79 Member Posts: 1
    i have 2002 Jeep Liberty 4x4 3.7 the trany sometime shifting properly and some time not and the check engine light comes on :( . i replaced the speed sensor and still does the same . the truck has 54K on it . it is like brand new , please any one can give any tip ?
  • vicki11vicki11 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever find out what the problem was? I get the same rumbling, worse if I use then disengage the 4wd . Mine is a 2005 Liberty --also working on my second broken rear window regulator in one year.
    other than this I love my jeep.
  • robert1912robert1912 Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Jeep Liberty (3.7L) , which I have owned since new, is now experiencing a shaking or vibration, for lack of better term, when speed wanders between 40 and 50 mph or so. Full disclosure: the transmission seems and feels like it shifts in and out of gears beautifully...no issues whatsoever with engaging. There are no pops or whines. Doesn't feel like it is slipping either. But I cannot figure out what this vibration--or shaking--is related to. I topped off tranny fluid, not much difference. Next stop was mechanic for diagnosis. Anyone else with the same or similar issue. Thanks in advance. For the record, it has 140,000 original and has been a beast...just an awesome ride.
  • abbzer0abbzer0 Member Posts: 3
    FYI - There is a recall (ish) on the broken window regulator problem. I received a letter from Chrysler, letting me know they have extended it to a 7 year, unlimited mileage warranty on the windows. I also furnished them with over $450 of parts costs on previous window replacements, which they wrote me a check for. It would be worth checking with Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Speed-specific vibrations are usually tire and wheel related. If you can drive into, and out of, the vibration zone, it is almost surely that.
  • rabertrabert Member Posts: 2
    I think I may have fixed it. I replaced the transmission control module that mounts on top of the valve body. It was relatively easy to do, but messy as usual. I have not had the code or limp mode since replacement. But just replaced it Friday 1/6/1012, so I will see what happens this week. The part cost about $230 from molar parts online.com. Just FYI. Thanks
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