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Sunday - vehicle won't start. Lights and everything work fine, and starter is engaging, but the vehicle won't turn over. I tried to jump it with my Durango, but to no avail. I took the battery to local autozone and had them charge it. Put the battery in and the truck started right up. Two hour later though, it wouldn't start again and no prodding in the world could get it going.
Monday - after work I picked up a new battery. Checked the truck to see if it would start first and got nothing on several attempts. Dropped the new battery (which has 710CCA as opposed to the stock 525CCA). Tried the truck and it started on the second try. Drove it to the used dealer we purchased it from (they have a really good service dept. that I trust). The service guy checked the wiring from batter to starter and said he couldn't find anything wrong. Vehicle started three times right away while there. He mentioned that we might have gotten water in the gas lines, so I swang by the parts store and grabbed some IsoDry and dropped it in the tank. Vehicle started right up twice more before I got back home.
Tuesday - wife says the truck won't start again this morning, and I couldn't get it to start--even with pushing the gas pedal to the floor. Getting the same symptoms as Sunday.
It has been very very cold here the last week (temperatures near zero!). Any suggestions? I'm contemplating the crank/camshaft position sensors at this point because that is the closest thing I can guess at. Could it just be a bad tank of gas that I am going to have to suffer through?
Originally the system started when i went and got gas on a cold night, drove for 30 miles and perfect. Than after the car had sat for 3 hours, it started kicking, jumping, sniffling, and shutting down 2 times with the oil light coming on... and i couldnt get above 2000 RPM, or 35MPH to 45 MPH, but i got home. Than the next day nothing, no check engine light nothing of that sort and the problem is gone, yea right, it came back the next day. So its been going on a while and i finally took it to the dealer for a diagnosis, and this is what they told me.
I almost forgot, i own an 03 Libby Renegade and i dont baby it, i tow with it, and off road with daily and monthly, afterall its a jeep!!!
Below is the actual email from the dealer
:confuse: the check engine light has 5 fault codes
1. p1391 intermittant loss of crank or cam signal
2. p0141 1/2 o2 sensor heater failure
3. p0161 2/2 o2 sensor heater failure
4. p0320 no crank reference signal at pcm
5. engine speed sensor circuit
to correct the check engine light we need to replace both the crank and cam sensors $310 and the two oxygen sensors $ 445 then reset the light and drive to make sure all the codes will clear the engine speed sensor circuit could be due to the fact the transmission is low on fluid-tech found the transmission pan gasket leaking--need to remove skid plate and reseal transmission pan $235 for the 80 k service: there are exterior light bulbs out $50, oil change due $35, and tech recommend to service battery terminals $65 :confuse:
any how i told them they are crazy... so i ordered the service manual from Chrysler, and once it gets here i will replace these sensors and give it a test drive...
i will let you know how it goes.
My husband last night found out that the CPS Censor seems to need replacing in our 02 Jeep. Can you tell me, is this easy to replace or will it have to be done by the dealer?
Thanks!!
Liliana
Member since: June 23, 2007
Total points: 103 (Level 1)
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--% Best answer
mfitzyk
S
Same thing happened to us, except it did stall...several times in a 3-mile commute. This WAS on '04 Liberty with 48K on it. 1 week after driving it off the lot, began stalling. Dealer said not their problem - no warranty implied. My wife, a teacher, took it to her school auto shop class. They cleaned out the throttle body (for $7). If you take it to a dealer, they will hook it up to a machine and there will be a CAM sensor error - $150 to replace, or they will maybe clean out the throttle body for $65/hr if you ask them. There are countless forums on the the web about this problem with people replacing this part and other sensors and the Liberty continues to fail. Bottom line - sold the Jeep after 3 painful months, bought an '05 Explorer Limited V8, gets better gas mileage (16/22-24) compared to Jeep (12/16-18) and have never been happier. Oh yeah, transmission slipping on the Jeep too after shifting from reverse to drive, same thing on my friends '05 Grand Cherokee. Did not want to have to replace that because even though Jeeps powetrain warranty is transferrable (for $150), you cannot transfer it after the basic 36m/36K mile runs out, which is a scam and a sense of flase hope from Jeep that you are covered for 7y/70k miles. Hope this helps and you have better luck with your Jeep, but this is one product line I will never buy again (please don't get upset; I am not a Jeep-hater, and I'm sure someone has opinions/experiences with Fords - what I've driven: '93 F150 V6 Manual - no problems, replaced clutch, brakes, tires, one bed support in 107K miles, still ran great when I sold; '02 F150 Supercab XLT V6 manual - slave cylinder went out @ 28K miles, replaced by Ford no questions asked - even though 36 months bumper to bumper was up; Dad drives '02 Explorer with 90K - no problems).
Source(s):
http://www.carkb.com/uwe/forumpost.aspx?...
http://cartalk.com/board/showflat.php?ca...
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/20...
http://www.jeepkj.com/mobile/thread.php?...
and the list goes on indefinitely...a major problem across the board for Jeeps
I have kept up with all standard maintenance (oil changes, tire rotations, etc.). I looked into what my rights are and although the car is not a year old it is over 18,000 miles so I would not even be able to build a lemon law case if needed as a last resort.
I feel so helpless. I don't know where else to turn. Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions? What can be done?
it.
Wife came home this evening and Liberty will not start. There is a "strange" sound coming from the locking mechanism for the rear gate and window. It has a continous "click click click" like it is trying to unlock. Also, the rear light in the beack of the car on the inside goes on and of repeatedly. Nothing on the keyfob works - no door lock, unlock, security etc. When the doors are open, nothing works, it appears that there is no power at all.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
You see, every time your vehicle stalls in this new age of computerized vehicles, it throws all of these "fault codes". The engine stops prematurely, and the CAM/Crank sensors fire because this is not natural for an engine to do this. You take it to a dealer, they hook it up to a machine and say, "well, we see that error code p0320 has registered, must be your Cam/Crank/etc sensor." Then, you start throwing money into replacing things that don't fix the problem. Next time it stalls you'll get the same or another error code all because your throttle body is dirty, less air gets through and your Jeep stalls. This is partly due to higher emissions standards since some of the exhaust, full of carbon deposits, is directing back through your throttle body to be reburned. These deposits build up, limiting air flow, and the Jeep stalls out. If it was a Cam/Crank/etc sensor, how come this only happens when you are stopped/idling? I think that if the sensor was bad, this would happen while driving at higher speeds (although in other forums this has happened as well). It also makes sense that this does not typically happen at higher speeds because more air if flowing around the engine thru the air filter and into your intake. This was something that a high school auto tech program was able to diagnose/fix. The teacher was a former Ford master-tech, and was willing to replace the $75-100ish sensors at cost (i.e. no labor - since my wife taught there), but first opted to do the minimal/cheapest fix first (clean out the throttle body), which ultimately worked, at least for the next few weeks we owned it.
Dealers and garages get paid more to fix the more complicated items based on a standardized chart. Cam sensor = 2 hours labor (probably takes them 20 minutes + 10 minute test drive) which = more money, let alone the mark-up on the parts. The guy we went to gets paid a flat salary to teach high school students in their auto-tech program. Cleaning the throttle body is probably less than 1 hour and something that, if you have the tools and have minimal auto repair skills, you could probably do on your own. Disconnect the air intake, remove the throttle body, spray with cleaner from Autozone/NAPA/Advance Auto Part or wherever ($7) and put back together. This mechanic said that our throttle body was filthy @ 50K miles.
I must admit though, we did sell the Jeep after only a few more weeks/months of this fix, but it never stalled after that (prior to this it was almost a daily occurance). Replacing sensors, computers, wiring, other major components will make NO difference if the vehicle is not getting the air it needs. The only thing I found wierd about this was that I drove a truck 107K miles and never had this problem, but that it does seem to be a common theme amongst Jeeps, particularly the Liberty. Perhaps poor design on Jeeps part in the older Liberty's. Don't know how the new ones drive, and probably never will, but maybe they fixed the problem now that they have a new "Unlimited" powertrain warranty (that I'm sure is not transferrablee after 3y/36k is up, and even more likely will be denied if on one occassion you went >3K miles before an oil change, or can't provide "documentation" of maintainnance) - should be on them to fix this now instead of the consumer. Hope this helps
I am a single mom and this is the LAST thing I need!
I just ran to the store (a little more than across the street from where I live) and it stalled once going over there and about 3 or 4 times coming back. It acted like it was getting no fuel whatsoever. When it would start back up, it would NOT move. I took it to the dealer a couple weeks ago because I had another recall on it. When I got there, they said there were actually THREE more recalls. They said (one of them) should fix my "problem". Well, obviously it didn't.
PLEASE HELP!!!!
Hrlp a brotha out!
Thanks
1. Today, backing into my parking space it stalled? Started up fine and ran fine, so I shut it down and came into work.
2. At times I feel a slip, especially when I decend on a road with a slow grade, wasn't sure if it was just the automatic, I don't normally drive automatics, and its been long time since I drove a 4wheel/Rear wheel car. Feels like the tranny or rear end is in spin up, then grabs slightly, kind like when you coast down a hill in a manual shift then let the clutch pedal out.
The deal said it's still under the 3/36K warranty, and I was actually thinking of buy the extended before I hit the 12K to avoid additional charges.
Any ideas on this transmission feel, or the stalling out when backing up?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
after around 20 minutes of driving it wont drive anymore when you press the gas it just wont go!, the power stays on it jerks then shuts down.. when you watch the RPM the do a dance back and fourth.. I can restart it only one time : buy raving the gas then it will only go about another 2 minutes before it wont even click to start.. i know its not the battery b/c all the power stays on but the engine wont start.. i replaced the crank sensor like most have and it still does not fix it... can someone please tell me anything else i should try that will not cost me thousands my liberty has 182,000 so its not worth it to spend thousands to fix the problem if that the case... my boyfriend is all over me about figuring out the problem so i need to so it ASAP>> PLEASE HELP WITH INFO AND IDEAS
before. I had it towed to the dealer and after three weeks of what I think was trial and error I finally have it back and it seems to be fine. They replaced the fuel pump, computer, fuel injector and then a second fuel pump saying the first one was defective. I had puchased
the extended warranty when I bought the car so I incurred no expense except the $100 deductible. My advice would be to anyone purchasing a car these days is to bite the bullet and buy the extended warranty. Mine included rental for five days and the dealer paid for the remainder time. I shutter to think what this three week repair job would have cost me. By the way, this is the first problem I have had with the Liberty and I really do enjoy driving it.
We experenced similar condition with a Ford250 pick up we own and found the cam locating sensor needed replacing.
To my Knowledge the CRD has no such sensor. The CRD acts as if it is not getting fuel. Could the Comon rail not be pulling or have enough suction to move fuel through the fuel filter? Could a small fuel pump help?
Has aneyone had this problem? Jon D
thanks
Blwing the nose of the CRD.
Take your Jeep out on the High WAy where you can go fast. From a slow speed excellerat as quickly as possible . You should see a clowd of black exoust. Afetr several axcellerations the black shouldc go away or turn white. This is a fix.
Get some biodiesel it will help. This works fore me. Pardon the sloppy message as I must hurry to work.jdh;-)
1. Clean the throttle body or better yet -
2. Sell the Jeep