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Any thoughts if this is the initial signs of the bad cylinder head problem i have seen on this discussion board. Thanks.
In fact, my first car, a 1965 Chevy Corvair, had an aluminum engine, and valve seat inserts in the heads.
Can anything be done to correct this problem.
What a headache this truck is........the only reason I am keeping it....am not willing to take the money loss.
If it's any consolation, when I bought my '05 Canyon 4x4, it came with the 265/75/15 General Ameritech tires. Poorest excuse for a tire I've ever driven on. They were off the truck within a week (3-400 miles), and I say this in all honesty, I GAVE THEM AWAY!!
GM agreed with the dealer that the alignment should solve the problem, and that its my fault becasue I didn't rotate the second tires every 6K miles. They really haven't agreed to do anything about this, it seems its normal. I have been rotating at 6K, but there is no way this won't kill the tires early they are bald on the inside in 20K miles. I will have to take it back again, but I'm not anxious to waste another $100. Anyone had this problem successfully fixed?
Date: July 22, 2005
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Premature Front Tire Wear (Set Front Z Height, Toe and Rotate or Replace Front Tires)
Models:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Colorado
2004-2005 GMC Canyon
Built Prior to November 18, 2004
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add a build date to the Models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-07-004A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on excessive front tire wear on the inside edge of the tire.
Cause
On four wheel drive (4WD) models, an incorrect Z height trim setting, resulting in an excessive front sum toe-out of specification, may be the cause.
On two wheel drive (2WD) models, an incorrect front sum toe setting may be the cause.
Correction
Follow the procedure below for diagnosis and repair of this condition.
Important: Prior to performing any tire repairs, permanently record the current tire inflation on the repair order.
1. Permanently record the tire pressure settings on the repair order.
2. Inspect the inside edge of the front tires for excessive wear.
^ If the inner front edge of the tires are worn to the wear indicators, replace the front tires and continue with the next step.
- For repair information, refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting.
- For tire warranty information in the U.S., refer to Warranty Administration - GM New Vehicle Tire Warranty Program Bulletin Number 00-03-10-003I, dated June 2005.
- For tire warranty information in Canada, refer to Warranty Administration - GM of Canada New Vehicle Limited Warranty Tire Program Bulletin Number 01-03-10-003B, dated April 2004.
^ If the inner front edge of the tires are not worn to the wear indicators, rotate the tires and continue with the next step.
Important: Prior to performing any additional repairs, permanently record the following information on the repair order.
^ Z Height
^ Alignment Measurements
^ Fuel Level
3. Set the inflation per the vehicle tire placard located on the driver's door.
Important: On 2WD models, DO NOT replace the front coil spring(s) or add insulators to compensate for a low trim Z height. A lower trim Z height reading is acceptable as long as it is within specification. Refer to Trim Height Inspection Procedure.
4. Check and adjust the vehicle Z height.
Important: ON 2WD models, ONLY replace the front coil spring(s) if the trim Z height is too low and out of specification.
5. ON 2WD models, ONLY replace the front coil spring(s) if the trim Z height is too low and out of specification.
6. Check and adjust the vehicle front toe to 0.00°+/- 0.20°.
7. Road test the vehicle in order to verify that the steering wheel is straight.
Many of the newer alignment machines have the "red" (out of spec) and "green" (within spec) scales built into their software, and many of the younger techs simply get the machine's screen "in the green", and proclaim that you're "good". They don't yet have the understanding or experience to diagnose problems accurately, and formulate a "custom" solution to your problem. Also, I'm sure that GM exerts a certain amount of leverage on them to adjust "to the green settings" regardless of what the tire wear is saying.
Well, "good" is still wearing out your tires, so you need an "old fashioned" wheel alignment man that will read the problem, and tweak the specs a bit, to fix the situation. It would appear to me that if you're wearing the insides of the tires, you have either A) too much negative camber; too much toe-out; or C) a little of both. Maybe, in order to fix your particular wear problem, your truck needs to be a little in the "red" zone, and you need a front end man that know suspensions, and not just how to turn the adjustment bolts to get it in the "green".
To be honest with you, I DO rotate my tires, but I sincerely believe it isn't the cure for everything. Look at how many cars today have staggered tire sizes, directional tread patterns, or both. Can't rotate the tires on a car like that.....
When I first took delivery of my Canyon, I picked it up in the evening, and it was snowing pretty heavily. Therefore, I basically drove straight home, about 2-2.5 miles, and didn't realy get a feel how it handled. The next day, while driving to work, I was shocked! The truck was all over the road.
I have a general distrust of dealers, so I took it to my trusted front end man a couple of days later, to have the alignment checked, as I felt it HAD to be off....way off! Long story short, the alignment was OK, we bumped the air pressure 5-6 lbs. and the truck was somewhat drivable.
A few days later, I put 4 Blizzaks on the truk, as it was primarily my winter vehicle, and it was like a different truck altogether. The OE General tires were SO BAD, that a good set of snow tires made it handle 100% better!
Anyway, do you happen to know the trim height spec? Just out of curiousity, I'd like to check mine. (It's a 4WD, Z-71) Thanks!
As a side note, I mentioned this in another Canyon/Colorado discussion...I switched to 16" rims and 245/75/16 tires, as well as adding a rear sway bay. It handles quite well now, for a 4x4, that is.....
Have you tried with Mobile 1 5-30W fully synthetic oil. My noise disapeared!
I am going to wait and see if it continues. Before I take it to the dealer.
My truck is 4 years old this month, and I'm just approaching 26,000 miles. Knock on wood, it's still running well.....
we are off all warranty now and i am worried this is going to lead to bigger and more expensive problems.
please help jaytee2
On Tires, I burn a set a year - figured out they had the wrong alignment specs from the factory on the second set- a good shop is one where they know how to adjust the specs to make the alignment right; my guy made his own adjustments and I haven't had an issue since.
With respect to the tire/alignment discussions, I decided to put my truck on the alignment rack, since it hasn't been on one since it was a couple of days old. All that was required was a slight toe adjustment, as the caster/camber were OK. The truck always drove well, once I got the OE General tires off of it, and was still doing so. However, after 4 years to "settle in", I wanted to check things once again.
truck has 54,000 miles