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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    nothing that looked like it had a bolt at one time, just the one barely right of center on the firewall and one over by the passenger side. should i try that one? i am also going to try scraping/sanding more of the paint around the bolt too, see if that helps. i have noticed that i no longer get a tiny shock when i get out and close the the door. BUT, i just ran an errand and it cut out and died on me twice, but started right back up again. when it started to die, the rpm's get really bouncy and low, it sputters, and no matter how much to step on the gas, it doesn't help or respond, then it goes dead.
    no check engine light, no codes, as usual.
    so i will try scraping the connection a bit more, it was dark last night when we did this and probably didn't do a great job.
    by the way, i don't have any vaccum leaks at all. so we can rule that out.
    what about the battery cables and ground?
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Ok - check that you have a good ground & we'll continue along from there...

    Any sign of a braided ground strap hanging loose behind the engine? (I've seen them ripped clean to the connector - may just be a fuzzy stub under a bolt.)

    Any erratic gage behavior?

    Any erratic lighting - interior, dash, etc. acting weird?

    When it misbehaves - are the headlights etc fully functional & bright?

    Yes, check your battery cables ESPECIALLY if you have some of those aftermarket battery terminals from AutoZone, etc... They often get oxidized/corroded & can cause some weirdness that mimics other problems. I've also seen them come new with paint over-spray on the cable contact area!... they need to be cleaned with a wirebrush & then the cables re-clamped. (Best option is to replace those things with new factory style cables from a local parts store.)
    The aftermarket battery terminal/clamps I'm referring to are generic ones that have two bolts on top of them that clamp onto the original battery cable in cases where it pulled loose, or came out of the original clamp.
    Factory ones will only have the single bolt running into the side of the clamp and when tightened grips the battery terminal post... _OR_ with side post batteries there will be a single bolt that goes through the center of the cable terminal and screws directly into the battery's terminal.

    While you have your terminals loose - leave the battery disconnected, turn the key "ON", then to start, then back off. Pause a few seconds each time. This should clear any stored codes and reset the computer to 're-learn' the motor.

    (( On my own Jeep - I ran an additional ground cable from the battery negative to the same ground point at the dipstick you just used. Keep in mind that I have my Jeep set up for hi-current accessories (winch, etc) so this is overkill IF your cables are good and you don't have a hi-watt stereo etc.) ))

    How did you rule out vacuum leaks? 4.0L engines can get them along the intake manifold due to loose manifold bolts / studs. (Heat / cool cycle over time loosens the bolts & studs holding the manifolds to the engine.) You can check for vacuum leaks along the manifold with an old windex bottle filled with water, or a can of starting fluid with a nozzle to direct the spray along the manifold. Water will seal up a leak momentarily & change the engine revs (should smooth out...) and the starting fluid will make the engine rev higher momentarily if there is a leak. (Try to avoid letting fumes enter the airbox or it'll give misleading results.)

    Do you have a digital volt meter? Intermittent stalls can be caused by a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) though I would think it "should" throw a code on your Grand's computer.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Ok - check that you have a good ground & we'll continue along from there...

    Any sign of a braided ground strap hanging loose behind the engine? (I've seen them ripped clean to the connector - may just be a fuzzy stub under a bolt.)

    Any change in the other behavior?

    Any erratic gage behavior?

    Any erratic lighting - interior, dash, etc. acting weird?

    When it misbehaves - are the headlights etc fully functional & bright?

    Yes, check your battery cables ESPECIALLY if you have some of those aftermarket battery terminals from AutoZone, etc... They often get oxidized/corroded & can cause some weirdness that mimics other problems. I've also seen them come new with paint over-spray on the cable contact area!... they need to be cleaned with a wirebrush & then the cables re-clamped. (Best option is to replace those things with new factory style cables from a local parts store.)
    The aftermarket battery terminal/clamps I'm referring to are generic ones that have two bolts on top of them that clamp onto the original battery cable in cases where it pulled loose, or came out of the original clamp.
    Factory ones will only have the single bolt running into the side of the clamp and when tightened grips the battery terminal post... _OR_ with side post batteries there will be a single bolt that goes through the center of the cable terminal and screws directly into the battery's terminal.

    While you have your terminals disconnected - leave the battery disconnected, turn the key "ON", then to start, then back off. Pause a few seconds each time. This should clear any stored codes and reset the computer to 're-learn' the motor. There may be a specific method to do this for your Grand in your owner's manual.

    (( On my own Jeep - I ran an additional ground cable from the battery negative to the same ground point at the dipstick you just used. Keep in mind that I have my Jeep set up for hi-current accessories (winch, etc) so this is overkill IF your cables are good and you don't have a hi-watt stereo etc.) ))

    How did you rule out vacuum leaks? 4.0L engines can get them along the intake manifold due to loose manifold bolts / studs. (Heat / cool cycle over time loosens the bolts & studs holding the manifolds to the engine.) You can check for vacuum leaks along the manifold with an old windex bottle filled with water, or a can of starting fluid with a nozzle to direct the spray along the manifold. Water will seal up a leak momentarily & change the engine revs (should smooth out...) and the starting fluid will make the engine rev higher momentarily if there is a leak. (Try to avoid letting fumes enter the airbox or it'll give misleading results.)

    Do you have a digital volt meter?

    The "usual suspect" in stalling / quitting followed by intermittent no-starts is a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) though I would think it "should" throw a code on your Grand's computer. If you have a meter, we can check that easily enough.

    We'll run through that & if we can't figure it out I'll give you a URL for a Grand Cherokee web-forum. You can search their threads & ask some guys (& gals) who'd sleep with their Jeep if it would fit through the bedroom door and their spouse would let it inside. (Yes, Jeepers can be an obsessive lot...)
  • redgeminiredgemini Member Posts: 3
    the ignition switch on my grand cherokee all of the sudden locked, it turns back, but wont turn forward, any suggestions?
  • redgeminiredgemini Member Posts: 3
  • steve35steve35 Member Posts: 6
    Engine off, vehicle in Park. Rock the Jeep forward and backward a couple of times. Get in and try to start it. Sometimes the Park/Lock cable gets a bit stretched and doesn't allow the lock to be turned forward. Rocking the car relieves tension on the cable and on the Park/Lock function on the ignition switch.
  • idriveajeepidriveajeep Member Posts: 2
    Since lunghd has all the answers... i need help too!!
    I have a 99 JGC, V8. It has been stalling out when it runs on idle in park for more than 5 mins, and it will stall when driving down the road, (At any speed), and while stopped at a stop light. NO issues with lights dimming and what not though.
    we have noticed that when it shuts off randomly, all the gauges are... gauging things, if you will, EXCEPT the fuel gage. and everytime we try to start it after a stall, the fuel gauge continues to stay on E, until it finally decides to start... before we monkey around with other things you've suggested, do you think its a fuel pump or filter problem?? or SOMETHING do to with the fuel stuff?
  • ohno2ohno2 Member Posts: 9
    Did you ever have this problem? Noone seems to know how to fix this issue with my Jeep. The car starts and I'm driving an suddenly it just shuts off. Steering,everything! Then I try to restart the Jeep and it starts up, but when I take my foot off the gas it shuts off again. I spent a large amount of money on the matter and it still is the same. The gas station gave me a new battery, It was not the problem, and they replaced the speed sensor twice because it was burned. Now they said it might be a computer problem RPM? Does anyone have any advise for me? I'm so worried to drive this Jeep again. I almost got killed with these sudden brakedowns. The mechanic said just drive it and if it happens again tow it back to him. It will happen again and I'm running out of $. Please, adives thanks
  • autodriverautodriver Member Posts: 9
    may be you can go to check the ignition coil and the spark plug coil because may be some valve is not working correctly.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Hah - wish I did have all the answers. I have a 4.0L 6 cylinder & that's my primary focus however your symptoms do mimic a failing CPS (crankshaft position sensor) on a 4.0L. I unfortunately have NO idea where that is located on the chrysler engine your grand has & don't have a Factory Service Manual for a grand here.

    Yes, it could be a fuel problem... or other things.

    Does it stall out "gradually" or just quit immediately?
    Does it immediately restart, crank for a long time & then immediately restart?
    Or crank for a long time then sputter & spit then restart?
    Or do you have to let it sit for a while before it'll start?

    I'll give it a try but let me also refer you to the grand cherokee forum on JeepsUnlimited.com where you can do a search through existing posts / threads for this and if you can't find a good result... you can post the question there for the Grand Cherokee specialists.
  • idriveajeepidriveajeep Member Posts: 2
    it quite immediatly, has to sit for 5-10 minutes before it starts again. it does not spit and sputter at all.

    i'll check out the other forum. thanks!
  • ohno2ohno2 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks,I'll Mention it. I just took the Jeep to another place:)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Don't forget to check back here to let us know what happened!

    tidester, host
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    if it is a crank shaft sensor ti is right above the starter looks like held in with one bolt might be a bear to change with out removing the starter
  • jeepdriver3jeepdriver3 Member Posts: 3
    I also have a 96 jeep grand cherokee that shuts off while driving , sometimes it dies and i can restart it. i had an o2 sensor put in , then it then a computer. it still dies, sometimes it feels like it is running out of gas. today it is completely dead won't turn over at all, but the battery is good.i have had it in the shop at least ten times since may, and they don't know what it is. any suggestions??
  • jeepdriver3jeepdriver3 Member Posts: 3
    did you ever get your jeep fixed? if so what was it?
  • autodriverautodriver Member Posts: 9
    will that be the alternator effect the computer or you have any manufacture security system to shut off the power. It may try to unplug the battery or try turn your key from the driver door key hole three times to reset.( I don´t remember lock or unlock side.) just try no cost. hope yo can find out the problem. Good Luck
  • ohno2ohno2 Member Posts: 9
    Ok...Well, The "second" Technician said that he drove the Jeep to his job and home for 3 days this week and he said everything looks fine. He said he checked the computer due to incorrect codes and thats fine. So, I am hoping when I pick up the Jeep it will be kind to me too! If not, I give up on the Jeep. Thanks for your advise. I wish I had the answer to the problem. Back to square one :confuse:
  • jeeper6jeeper6 Member Posts: 2
    I have been having the same problems lately with my 96 Cherokee. After lots of forum searching and talking to Jeep parts and services I have come to find out that usually a few problems can cause the engine to shut off completely when it falls below 1000 RPM while driving, or not to start at all in the first place unless you hold your foot down a little bit on the gas.
    (1) The causes of the problem in most cases is the crankshaft position sensor. This is about a $60 part at autozone and can be replaced with a little bit of time. It is located on the driver's side bell housing of your transmission. Although this did not fix the problem with my car, out of all of the info I have read so far this worked in most cases. You can test this sensor as explained here: http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl651h.htm)
    (2) The second thing I would try is checking the camshaft sensor. This is extremely easy to replace and is located under the rotor of the distributor cap.This has supposedly fixed this problem in a few cases also. This sensor can also be tested before buying the part (see http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl651h.htm).
    (3) I ran across a well-hidden message on the web last night as I was looking once again for the cause of the problem and found that faulty wiring in the door wiring harness may be the cause of the problem (see http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl651h.htm). If you notice that your door locks don't work as well as they should, this is most likely the case of the problem.
    (4) Fuel is not getting to the engine - test your fuel pump to see if this is the cause of the problem, though in most cases it would be the previous problems mentioned.

    I'll keep you all posted as to what exactly was the cause of my problem.

    Cheers!
  • jeeptsijeeptsi Member Posts: 8
    I have a problem with my 97 jeep grand cherokee tsi. while driving it shuts off. I have changed the crank position sensor, the cam position sensor , the ignition coil 2 times, the sparkplugs, the fuel pump and filter, the air filter,the cap & rotor, the sparkplug wires and it still keeps shutting off. While checking the ignition coil for spark, I noticed that it has a very poor spark and sometimes none at all.I took the vehicle to a mechanic and he advised me that he repaired the wiring harness to the ignition coil. It still shuts off while driving. can anyone help?
  • moethalji1moethalji1 Member Posts: 2
  • moethalji1moethalji1 Member Posts: 2
    my truck only has 14,000 miles but it out of warrenty. it just started running real rough, basically only working on 3 cylinders, but all 6 have spark, gas, and compression. it makes no sense, but the dealer cant even figure it out. they want to charge me $500.00 just to look at it, and thats not gaurenteed for them to find the problem. i cleand out the gas tank, replaced the computer, and even the spark plugs.still only runs off of 3 cylinderys 2 on one side and one on the other.please if anyone knows anything about this situation, please reply so you can help me out.
  • ranger5132000ranger5132000 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with a 95 Dodge Caravan. It just turns off while I'm going under 10 mph. Mechanic does not have any suggestions. Help.
  • autodriverautodriver Member Posts: 9
    Did you try to check the fuel injection system.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the PCM (powertrain control module). You have addressed the likely lower cost items first which is always smart. My PCM ran about $250.00 rebuilt with the old core. It came with a 1 year warranty and was an easy fast repair.
  • jeepmamijeepmami Member Posts: 1
    i was having that exact same problem with my '96 JGC and it wound up being the oxygen and camshaft sensors. have them cehck it out just in case that's what it is.

    since it's been fixed though, i am having problems iwth it jerking off and on. not sure if the problem is related but it's an issue. since getting the sensors replaced, it's not shutting off anymore though.
  • ohno2ohno2 Member Posts: 9
    Hi, My jeep shut off again while I was driving. I called the tech again and he said he would get a part "camshaft sensor" but it will be about $500. and it my not fix the problem. I cannot invest anymore money into this Jeep. I have no choice but to sell it. My question is, what is the best way to sell it as is? Its in mint condition and has low mileage. Any advice? Thanks :cry:
  • lvgm250lvgm250 Member Posts: 2
    The camshaft sensor is what my dealer told me also and I haven't replaced it yet but I called Autozone and they have the camshaft position sensor for $39.99 and you can replace it yourself. It is under your distributor cap housing and is simply a matter of unpluging and replacing. I don't know what the freaking $500 is about. That's horrible.
  • ohno2ohno2 Member Posts: 9
    oh My....I will have to try this. Thanks so much! Now, I just have to find the darn distributor cap housing. LOL. Autozone here I come!!! Well, thats another Mechanic on my you know what list.
  • oneofemoneofem Member Posts: 3
    On my wife's 2000 Grand Cherokee, the ignition key won't turn in either direction. After she found the key wouldn't turn, she turned the steering wheel to see if the steering wheel lock was putting pressure on the switch, and the lock engaged when she turned it.

    I've tried rocking the car to see if the problem was the parking lock (as suggested elsewhere in this forum), but that didn't help.

    Is it likely the key cylinder itself?
  • oneofemoneofem Member Posts: 3
    Found the solution on another forum.

    This cylinder has a tendency to have sticking tumblers. As suggested, I inserted the key and lightly tapped it with the handle of a screwdriver. Started right up. I gave it a shot of graphite and will take it by a locksmith later this week.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Thanks for sharing!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • charity3charity3 Member Posts: 2
    after checking all your normal sensors and you still hava the same problem it will be a ground in your wiring harness start checking oxygen sensor wires on drivers side of engine good luck
  • jlowasjlowas Member Posts: 1
    Have you replaced your ground cable yet and did that stop your problems. I have a 96 JGC and for a few weeks now I have had intermittent stalling while driving at various speeds. The other day it finally completely stalled while turning a corner. I've had the flickering dash lights for over a year now. Please let me know if your problem is gone. Thanks!
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    i have replaced the ground cable that was non-existant, but it didn't help at all.
    my JGC stalls all the time, BUT only when it's cold outside....very strange. the interior lights still flicker, but i have figured out that is the switch.
    i have replaced soooo many things. even the fuel filter again, the ignition coil....etc. i am about ready to take it to the dealer and pay a ton.
    any other ideas out there???
  • the_skepticthe_skeptic Member Posts: 4
    I fixed my Jeep, which was having the same problem, by replacing the AIS motor on the back side of the throttle body. The part cost about $85.00 from the dealer and took me about three minutes to switch out. The dealer wanted $800.00 to fix the problem. I hope this helps you out.

    Good luck!
  • 1spwcman1spwcman Member Posts: 3
    Cold condition idle problem only: All problems exist during first 5 minutes of operation. It stalls at low idle conditions. I have already changed out the idle air control valve and fuel filter, searched for vacuum leaks, and replaced plugs and plug wires. In my research on several forums as well discussing with several mechanic friends, I have a list of possible fixes but need help determining the best plan of attack specific to cold idle problem only. Here’s my list, I need advice on sequence and possibly the logic behind you sequence.
    • Camshaft position sensor – I list it first because it once showed this error code while at auto zone. Their reader had zero code for 4 of the 5 reads. I have had a cold engine reading yet. Engine always warn by the time I get to autozone.
    • Crankshaft position sensor
    • Throttle position sensor
    • Evaporative emission control system filter/solenoid
    • Manifold absolute pressure sensor problem, possible dirty mass flow sensor
    • Low voltage at PCM
    • The PCM itself
    • Erratic fuel pump
  • 1spwcman1spwcman Member Posts: 3
    what is an ais motor on back of throttle body SEE mesage 54 of 54
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    bet it a iac moter (idle air control motor mounted to the side of throttle body
  • tonkadogtonkadog Member Posts: 6
    2000 Grand Cherokee just shuts down while turning. So far it has only shut down when making a right turn and it doesn't matter if it is cold or has been driven for miles there is no consistency to when it will just quit. There is not any code thrown so nothing to retrieve with the scanner so far. Also it has only shut down in a slow turn. Engine is a 4.0L inline 6 and there is not a factory installed alarm system just the remote door locks.
    I have seen the solutions for the stalling and quits discussions and hate to replace $100's worth of parts before I get the right one sometime. Does anyone know what the bottom line part to replace is without going through the half dozen or so sensors? I figure the PCM would be the ultimate part to replace but what about the loose connector going to it if there is one, wiggled them but they could have a loose wire inside I don't know.
    Yeah I have a Haynes manual before someone asks that and I can find my way around an engine.
    Thanks for help. Any past experiences would be appreciated and I really do want to know what you did to solve your problem.
    Norman
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    I had a similar problem although it was not affected by turning. The Jeep would either just turn off or would go into a "stumble mode" where it would continue to run but without enough power to accelerate. It would always restart easily sometimes continuing to stumble and sometimes not. Replacing the crankshaft sensor did not do it in my case, I had to replace the PCM. This cost about $250 with the core trade in and only took about 15 minutes for me to do it in my driveway. Not cheap, but far from a financial disaster and I have had no problems since.
  • tonkadogtonkadog Member Posts: 6
    Thanks a lot for your quick reply. I have been leaning toward doing that and I think I know the place online where the PCM can be sent and redone practicaly overnight for $250.
  • 05jeepman05jeepman Member Posts: 12
    My 05 has done this twice, but it was making a left turn both times. Any way to find out exactly what's causing this without taking it to the dealer, it's an overnight stay no matter what it goes in for, and I only have this vehicle running right now??? Thanks for any info on this.
  • tonkadogtonkadog Member Posts: 6
    To give an update on my daughter's 2000, she said it tried to stall out on her and had no power when she first started it and drove it yesterday. That is new.
    I am probably going to just go ahead and bite the bullet so to speak and replace the computer for somewhere in the $300 range. The vehicle has over 100 thousand miles and it is out of the year spread to be covered by the warranty on the computer.
    Now your vehicle on the other hand, probably still has a warranty on the computer unless you have more than 80,000 miles so you would probably be covered. The catch as always is to get them to admit its bad and replace it under warranty. An who knows it could be something else so you may want to keep looking at the other posts under stalling, etc. I spent several hours late one night looking through all the posts and taking notes for all the possible things that could be causing the quitting and boy there are a bunch. The closest thing to a bottom line thing that most all the people said they finally wound up replacing was the PCM or computer.
    I first thought it might be the ignition switch, but I wiggled the key while the engine was running and nothing happened. We have tried to get it to quit by driving in the driveway and making sharp turns but nothing happens.
    I know the one vehicle routine is not good, especially when that one vehicle is not up to snuff. Everything that could conceivably cause the engine to just quit are fairly easy to replace its just the cotton picking money that I don't like to throw away.
    Well I don't know if I have been any help but there are solutions out there it just takes time
  • 05jeepman05jeepman Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the reply, I just found this site, so I'll go and explore a little before I take it in. Thanks again for the time and info. :D
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    One other thing I noticed on my Jeep was that as time went on the problem would occur more frequently and too a worse degree before I replaced the PCM. Good luck on yours.
  • 05jeepman05jeepman Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the info, I wish now I would have thought about it when it was at the Dealer. Oh well, it's got less than 30k on it, so if it happens again, it's going back WITH this info to let them know I know what it is. Dealers around here want to act like everything that happens to the vehicle is my fault, and the thing still looks brand new. :confuse:
  • kparisokpariso Member Posts: 1
    My 96 J.C (auto 2-wd) stalls, occasionally backfires and sputters. When it dies, it sounds like a diesle engine, it makes awful noises. it seems to loose power like i am running out of gas or something.When it does die i usually smell unburned fuel.It mostly does it when i am @ a stop or slowly accelorating but sometimes it will do it while i am cruising on the highway. I have replace the cap and wires, the ignition coil, mapp sensor and a couple other small things. A few days ago i had a friend looking at it and he touched the wiring control harness and it died. He put some grease on it to open the connection and it was fine for a few days but now it is getting worse. Is this a major mechanical problem? I did have a code that said something about fuel injector 1 open circuit. I have to get this fixed, i am pregnant and getting stuck in the middle of the road.
    PLEASE HELP!!!
  • raysnlamraysnlam Member Posts: 1
    When I go for local (stop-and-go) traffic, at Idle (foot on brakes like at stop light) the car will sometimes stall quietly. The car will restart without any strange sign. If I leave the car in Netural, it will sometime stall, too. When the car shift gears, it will shoke once like the engine is choking. At high speed though, everything runs smoothly.

    Pressure gauge reading varies between the middle and 3-quarter. Replaced Oil Pressure Gauge and Crankshaft Position Sensor. Also cleaned throttle chamber. None seems to fix the issue.

    Any idea?
  • mmiller122mmiller122 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I was towing my boat, stopped to get gas for my jeep & 15 minutes down the freeway, everythings shuts off, the car basically stalls. I was able to pull over to the side. I tried starting it and it just wouldn't start. Almost seemed out of gas (but I just filled the tank). Also, the gas gage showed empty. Strange, since I just filled. Tow truck driver tried jumping the battery to see if it would start (even though the battery worked fine) and it just wouldn't start. The engine turns over but it just start. It sounds like it wasnt to start, but it just acts like it is out of gas. Any ideas? I am really wanting to get it up and running! Thanks. it is a 5.8L/5.9L V8
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