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They don't provide a car loan.
the Service Manager have no clue when the part will be at the dealer
I called costumer service almost everyday, they will give you a "case number"
they say "we have a team working the get this part faster" Its BS.
and after call them almost everyday they transfer to "case manager" there is nothing they can do about it, also I ask if the new tipm goes bad again what should I do? the "case manager" says the warranty its 12 months or 12000 miles.
I have to pay $1200 to fix my card and I know the tipm only going to last another 40000 miles.
I already made my mind : fix the car, sale and by another brand, jeep left me with no car and no help with the cost to fix it. im done with them.
Lets get together and file against them.
Check with AR Speedometer & Gauge 918-640-0659
I Love JEEP and all American built cars and believe that our economy would be in a greater position if most of us invested in American built items. The problem, however, is that many of the American car corporations do not have as much faith in the consumers as they do in them.
I have been having similar problems with my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo at 68,000 miles.
I would attempt to crank but the car would not turn over due to issue with the fuel pump which are located in the fuel tank. My issue is that my pump would not turn on when I needed it nor would it turn off when the vehicle is turned off. This, of course, causes the battery to drain. For the JGC 2011, there are two pumps. One that starts the vehicle and the other allows the vehicle to continue running.
For most parts on most cars when they fail, a blown fuse is in indication of the problem and a new fuse or relay would be the resolution. The fuse for the fuel pumps in 2011 JGC are actually built inside the pump.
Jeep indicates that to resolve the issue the TIPM or the entire FUSE BOX must be changed out. it costs $924 for the part and it is on national back order.
The resolution, therefore, could not be to change out the TIPM but to do make a connection from the fuel pump(s) to the fuse panel with a switch inside the vehicle that allows the driver to turn the pump on & off as needed.
This is exactly what I did on 09/28/2013. My jeep appears to working perfectly now.
My AWESOME mechanic dropped the fuel tank, connected a wire directly to the fuel pumps and attached it to the fuse box. The wire was entered through the driver side passenger seat and is hidden beneath the plastic panels as it taken through the driver side area and out to the engine and into the fuse box. A connecting wire is added below the steering wheel area to add the toggle switch that allows me to turn the pump on & off as needed.
I will definitely share an update on this form on if I have future issues. I do not believe that I will future issue simply because I have an AWESOME mechanic. This guy is like Einstein when it comes to cars. My faith in his ability is not because of his in depth knowledge of all vehicles but because he is driven by problem resolution and not by money. For the record, I only paid him $100. It was what he asked for and it was just what I had.
I do not believe that consumers should be forced to pay thousands of dollars for faulty equipment on the part of the manufacturer. I expect a recall soon.
I hope this helps.
I have spoken with a few other mechanics regarding what my AWESOME mechanic did and all agreed that they believe that it was the only true viable solution to the issue and will try same approach
My wife and I bought a 2011 Cherokee Laredo 3.7 last November and have had it trouble free (Id hope so being 3 years old right?) Until this past week.
I am having the no start issues everyone is talking about. Hit the button and the engine just cranks and cranks. I'm somewhat familiar with auto mechanics so I started digging around. The thing I have noticed when this first happened is, If I cycle the push button to ACC on, then press brake and start, it would fire up. Most of the time. If it started at all, it would either stay running or it would hiccup and die. One at the house, I checked over all fuses and relays and all seemed to be fine.
After getting it started and home, I started to reenact the no start troubles. Id cycles to ACC on and listen for the fuel pump to prime. If I can hear it prime continuously for 2-4 seconds, it would start right away. Sometimes it would prime for .5-1 second, stop, kick on again for another second. This time the engine would start but immediately die. Other times it would just crank. I think the fuel pump is extra loud while priming but that could just be because I'm consciously listing to it and in my garage.
This happened maybe 2 times over the last 10 months but it would always start after trying a second time. So we just chalked it up to a weird occurrence.
I don't believe I've had an issue with the pump staying on at all times. I've also never lost charge in my battery. I'm hoping someone else has had this issue with the fuel pump not getting a signal to prime and believe these issues are one in the same.
I am in Houston and the local to me dealer and the dealer we purchased the Cherokee from both have a dozen vehicles waiting for the TIPM. They have both confirmed Chrysler has put a limit on order 1 TIPM per dealer per week.
I have 2 options I'm willing to take with this car.
-hard wire a switch to the fuel pump that bypasses the TIPM and wait for a recall or
-I have found a company who will rebuild the TIPM for a reasonable amount. They claim to have found a fix for the "Fuel pump stays on and drains the battery" issue but I don't think I'm having that problem. Although I believe my issue is caused by the same "section" of the TIPM. If anyone is interested, search ebay for Cherokee TIPM and you will see his listing.
I've had zero problems
If you proceed and wait for a new one, what will you do if it fails again??
The manufacturer took such deliberate effort in not placing a fuse or relay in the TIPM, would it not stand to reason that increased revenue is the motive.
I spent a grand total of $150 to hardwire and obtain a guaranteed solution. How much are you willing to spend?
Look at the pros and cons then make an informed decision.
Good Luck
Can you tell us how to do that or what to tell a mechanic so they would understand? Where is the switch? Inside the cab or under the hood?
Thanks for the info!
I can send pics if needed.
Make sure to select the one that is right for your make and model. Mine is the Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 2011, which is where this link goes. You might need to tweak this to match your year/make/model.
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/MODULE-Totally-Integrated-Power/431- 7119/04692316AI.html
http://youtu.be/kS1gD-jFWxs
I just could not accept this as the only option...
So earlier in this thread there was a suggestion about a shop in Tulsa Oklahoma http://www.arspeedometer.com that could fix the TIPM.
I called and talked to Allan at AR speedometer and told him about this thread and my issue. He told me that they are just getting started with these repairs and had early success and asked me more about my issue. I explained that it would just crank and crank but would not get any gas to turn over or if it did it would die immediately. He said that his rebuild should fix the issue.
I took my TIPM out of my 2011 JGC, it took about 20 minutes. Disconnected the negative battery cable (Note: Battery is under the passengers side front seat) unbolted the power to the TIPM lifted the unit and unplugged it from the car (I marked all of the connections so I knew how to put them back in the correct spot). That took the most time because I needed to figure out how to get the clips off without breaking them. I only kinda broke one so take your time with this part.
Packed it up and sent it USPS overnight flat rate for $38 on Wednesday of last week. The shop got it Thursday and Allan called me Friday telling me that it was complete and back in the mail priority. I gave him a CC payment of $283. $269 for the fix and $14.00 for return shipping. So total of $318.00.
The part was on my door step tonight when I got home. Took me 10 minutes to put it back in and then the moment of truth. Foot on break, press start button, hold breath and BOOM!!!!! IT STARTED!!!!
I took it for a quick drive around the block and then started it a few more times just to make sure, now I am posting this.
So forget Chrysler and their BS. Forget the $1200 and the 6 week wait call Allan and save yourself $900 and a ton of time and pain.
I really hope this info helps those who find it and maybe Chrysler will pull their heads out!
Bonne Chance!
Thanks
He told me the TIPM has several relays that are internal and not serviceable unless you take the entire TIPM apart. They are not replaceable like the normal relays you see from opening the cover. The dealer won't even take these apart. The relays inside we changed with better parts and everything cleaned was cleaned up.
The internal relay that controls the power getting to the fuel pump has got to be our, well chryslers problem. Will report back in a few days.
http://www.justanswer.com/jeep/7nqzx-2011-grand-cherokee-limited-intermittent-st- arting.html
Hate to say it but really pissed off.