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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • flylwflylw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Jeep started missing sometimes at Idle, doesn't do it all the time while at Idle. I thought I might have bought some gas with some water in it. I change the inline gas filter back by the tank and put a additive in the gas tank to help take the water out. It still has the same problem missing at Idle. The check engine light does not come on. I had it checked to make sure there were no codes and it didn't show any. You can let it idle and it will not have a miss for few seconds and then it might miss once or twice and then smooth back out. The engine is a straight six cylinder, 4.0. Has anyone had this problem? Or, tell me what to do. All help appreciated.
  • bampotbampot Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 JGC, auto, 4WD,4.0L, it has 246000 miles and we have replaced the fuel pump 4 times in 12 yrs, on the last 2 occasions we only replaced the pump not the entire module thingy. anyway having said that I think my problem could be different this time. I had parked the Jeep overnight and the next day it would turn over but not fire I can hear the pump come on for 1-2 sec when the ignition is turned on, also I know that the fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I am somewhat confused ( not to hard) as I also disconnected the fuel line at the inline filter (mounted just forward of the fuel tank) and when I turned on the ignition the pump only ran for the 1-2 seconds despite the fact it could not build pressure in the system, is this ok or is the pump faulty once again. I would like to know if I am getting a spark at the plugs but am not to shure how to do this on my own without meters etc. Sorry to sound like such an fool as I`m a 62 yr old male, anyway thanks in advance, Michael in Northern AZ.
  • jeremy20jeremy20 Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2001 JGC 4.7L, when coming to a stop at a red light or anytime I am just idling in drive, the oil pressure drops to 0 and the check gauges light dings on. Once I start gaining RPM's the oil pressure shoots back up to where it should be, and the check gauges light goes out. I have recently had the oil changed and it is still doing the same thing. Anyone who has any suggestions on what is going on or how to stop this from happening, would be greatly appreciated.
  • 95zjtom95zjtom Member Posts: 8
    I agree with the throttle position sensor - very easy to replace on the 5.2 engine. You can get one from Autozone for around $40. The TPS mounts on the driver's side of the MFI body with torx head screws and the easy to unplug connector and you can have it swapped in less than 15 minutes. While at it, get the air idle control sensor. This one mounts on the rear of the MFI body with torx head screws and the easy to unplug connector and you can have it swapped in less than 15 minutes. I just replaced this one on my 95 GCLtd this morning and what a difference it made! I replaced the TPS a week or so ago. A garage replaced the crankshaft speed sensor three weeks ago as this Jeep was disabled on the side of the highway and would not start. Turned over and tried to start but would not. I had no knowledge of the crankshaft speed sensor but they figured it out and made the repair that Jeep dealer could not the week earlier(same problem).

    This GCLtd, with 5.2 V8 has 294, 000 miles on it and is ready for many more years of driving.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    get hold a macanical gauge and hook that up and make sure that you are in fact that oil pressure drops to zero
    could gust be sending unit
  • ocarithersocarithers Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1996 JGC Laredo 4.0 AT 2WD at a garage sale, Real cheap! I removed the engine and had it rebuilt due to some head damage and piston damage. The machine shop recovered the "missing bolt" the previous owner mentioned when I bought this nightmare. Anyway, after I re-installed the new engine, it started and ran like a champ. However, it won't idle properly. It will rev between 1200 and 600 about six or seven times then die. I used the manual to check all the components: TPS, CKP, MAP, air idle control valve, replaced the camshaft position sensor. I even replaced the PCM with a reman. one, yet it does the same exact thing. All of a sudden my real cheap JEEP is a total burn!! Please someone help!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    get a vacuem gage and hook that up the start sure sounds as if you have vacuem leak
  • peterflitepeterflite Member Posts: 2
    Any more ideas on this intermittent stalling on my 4 liter 1997 Cherokee automatic please ????
  • tuercastuercas Member Posts: 1
    hey methalji1 did you fix your problem? I have a same problem with a cherokee and i did everything, heads, cam and crank sensor, sparkplugs and coils
    i really appreciate your answer
    tanks
  • bluemerc1bluemerc1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6 cyl 4WD. It has 147,000 mile. Radiator was replaced at approx. 110,000 miles. No other replacements have been made to the cooling system.

    It has always run with the temp gage just at the "Half way" mark on the temp gage. Lately when I am stopped at a traffic light, or just idling, the temp gage slowly creeps up. It has gotten close to the red mark on the gage, but never hit it. When I start driving again and the air is flowing thru the radiator, it cools back down.

    Any suggestions to keep it from heating when Idling???
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    fan clutch is bad change that should take care of prob
  • tmpgatmpga Member Posts: 3
    Hello Snake,
    I have a 99 with 125,000 miles with the same problem and havn't been able to solve. Have you had any luck resolving this problem?
  • tmpgatmpga Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 Grand with the 4.0 and 125k, I go to start it and it would not turn over. I recently replaced the battery. Everything turns on electricly and I can hear the engine cranking but it will just not turn over and run. However, if I push on the gas pedal as if I'm reving the engine or as if it wasn't fuel injected I can get it to start. I must hold the idle speed, usually around 1000 rpm, for maybe 30 secs. or so to make sure it'll stay started. If I don't physiclly hold the gas to keep it running it just stalls out. Once it's running for the first few minutes the idle is very low, around 400 rpm. In addition to the problem this happens totally random and without warning. Have had it happen as many as 3 times within a week and have gone as long as 1+ months between it. Once it gets running it's perfectly fine with no difference in performance or ride. Someone suggested the fuel pump. Anybody with any suggestions?
  • fivel47fivel47 Member Posts: 3
    Help! I have only had my jeep since May. I started with a overheating problem, which we easily fixed with the fan relay switch.

    But, within a couple weeks it appeared to be "possessed". Started cutting out while driving, so quickly it was hard to know I stalled. It generally occurred while idling or at times of slowing down(pulling into parking lot). It would immediately start right up without hesitation.

    Now it is becoming more frequent( multiple times in short trips & 95% of all trips to store!) & takes longer to start, today was over 10mins after it stalled. Also, it now will cut out while driving at any speed, don't have to be slowing down or idling. In addition, to the fact that it will also cut out while driving, but while I am pulling over it kicks back in & I'm driving again!!! ??? Also, today it stalled as I went over RRtracks & seemed to happen as we hit the bump???

    Shortly after noticing the initial stalling(which was so weird and infrequent I wasn't sure it wasn't something I did accidently without realizing) It was parked in my driveway &cold, when I noticed it sounded like it was running....the fan turned itself on. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it, even then when I reconnected the battery it was still on.

    Last thing, don't know if it is related, but the dealer did mention when we changed the fan relay switch to make sure to use rivets. My boyfriend, who was a mechanic for 15years had already done the job &we weren't worried that it was in with screws. The dealer had suggested though, it could cause electrical shorts? Is it as simple as putting another new switch in, but with rivets? Or is it something completely unrelated?
    I apologize if this posted twice???? couldn't find the first one...I dont think I clicked the button.
  • fivel47fivel47 Member Posts: 3
    Just a thought....my 99 with about 126,000 miles had same problem & a Fan relay switch solved it. The dealer said it was a common problem with the jeeps. It was a bit difficult to get to.....behind one of the headlights! Good luck:)
  • hondajeep95hondajeep95 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 5.2 with 115K miles. Most recently, the car started to "buck" and then stall after running for ~30 minutes. Sometimes she will start right up and other times I'll have to wait 5-10 minutes before she'll start again. She'll run "clean" for a few days before the problem re-occurs. I had the timing done, belts, plugs, air filter and wires changed along with the fuel injectors cleaned by my local Jeep dealership. Use 87 octane (various dealers) and never let gas fall below 1/4 tank level. Could it be the fuel filter/pump?? I'll never know when this problem will occur??
  • rscottarscotta Member Posts: 3
    This sounds fairly familiar and I'm looking for some help myself. My '96 will run for 5 - 10 minutes and then die. Won't restart (turns over fine, never fires up). I've been working this problem for two weeks now. Initially I didn't realize that it was a heat related problem, symptoms pointed me towards fuel delivery problem, replaced fuel pump and in line filter. After realizing it was heat related, found cracks in the coil. Replaced that. No good. Did some more research and decided the crank position sensor was a likely suspect. It did fail an ohm check per the manual. I replaced that (would like to have a discussion with the engineer that located it at the top of the bell housing). Didn't fix my problem. Now I am chasing wiring. I did notice that my aux fan does not turn on, not sure if it's related, but need to dot that i. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • smokey6693smokey6693 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 grand cherokee laredo with the 4.0 litre. when it gets to normal operating temp. then you idle it will stall. it has no spark so i replaced the coil and it ran fine for a month but now does the same thing.
    any ideas?
    thanks
  • hank778hank778 Member Posts: 6
    my problem ended up being the three spliced wiring connections inside the wiring harness going into the ecm(computer) located under the hood on the passenger side firewall. found this out by warming up jeep and wiggling harness. i just wirenutted connections. good luck, theres also a small gauge ground wire coming off the battery terminal that is the ground to ecm that becomes faulty.
  • my77gmcmy77gmc Member Posts: 3
    i got a code in the book it says throttle position sensor voltage high or low. so does that mean the TPS is bad? or does something else cause the voltage to be too high or too low? and what controls the downshifting when passing? is it vacuum or electronic or both? could the tps problem cause that?
  • rscottarscotta Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. I'm a bit worried about the wiring in this vehicle. I have other electrical issues. The driver side door lock button locks the door, but wont unlock it. This car has the keyless entry sensor above the rear view mirror, but I don't have the key fob. I hope I don't have any issues with the anti-theft system that is causing the ASD relay to shut off. May have to dig into it. I will mess around with the harnesses as you suggested.
  • tmpgatmpga Member Posts: 3
    My problem was similar and I replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors and have not experienced a problem so far. The parts are fairly inexpensive.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    that what tells the trans to shift should just be able to change tps should fix probb
  • process79process79 Member Posts: 3
    i am a recent jeep newbie, just bought a 1994 jeep grand cheroke laredo 4x4 with the 4.0 liter straight 6. supposidly it had a bad fuel pump, and it did. i replaced the fuel pump, along with the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay. now i have read on other forums that these vehicles do not have an inertia switch, and with a vast automotive knowledge know that it is not acting like an inertia switch is tripped(the fuel pump runs) but are there any other safteys on this vehicle? also i know it needs plugs, a cap and rotor, but what gets me is that it will run on ether(starting fluid) and not on pump gas,i noticed that the plugs, wires cap and rotor were bad by chance, i'm a second shift heavy duty mechanic and only get time to work on it after dark, and noticed the plugs and wires arcing in the plug housing on the head, track marks and corrosion in the cap and on the rotor, and soot on the plugs at the base of the boot, along with the electrodes on all the plugs worn down to the base, but why would it run on ether and not pump gas? im out of ideas if the plugs cap and rotor dont do the trick pleas help...... i need all the help i can get, i dont know [non-permissible content removed] about mopar, i'm a chevy boy and have never ran into this before. :mad:
  • process79process79 Member Posts: 3
    i also thought i should mention that this vehicle hit a deer. could there be something im overlooking, i also wanted to mention that the fuel rail only has decent pressure on the initial key turn, after that first time after sitting overnight, it seems to deminish, but again i am wondering why ether and not pump gas
  • papenpapen Member Posts: 11
    All repairs done on my 1996 Jeep. Then I got smart. The wallet handing out to much cash. Had the computer rebuilt (sent out) they found loads of errors cost me 395.00 haven't had a problem since. Now remember taking it to Jeep they found "NO" errors on computer. If you are tired of sitting on the side of the road consider getting computer rebuilt. The location of the computer was to close to wet items which over a period of time could ruin.
  • wavfactwavfact Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Lerado, 3.0 w/104k miles on it.

    A month or so ago as I was driving the dash lighta flickered and then stayed on but the car was still running fine. When I stopped, I turned off the car and when I tried to start it, nothing happen, no clicking, no nothing. After trying a few more times it started and off I went. All was fine after that untill the other day I backed my car up to my trailer, turn it off, got out and hocked everything up. Then got back in and turned the key, it started for a spilt second and died, now it simple turns over and doesn't start.

    I removed the battery cables, cleaned them both and put back on (even though it turned over strong, thought I'd give a reset to the PCM modules). Turned the key and it still turns over but doesn't start, not even attemps to start. I checked the EFI pressure and it was fine, each time I releave the pressure it build back up when trying to start it again.

    Anyone have any ideas?

    Dennis
  • nichols02nichols02 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2000 JGC that wants to stall out while drive down the road. It usually when I am coming out of a stop light or stop sign. It just sort of sputters when I hit the gas and acts like it's going to quit. It even begins to make a knocking sound. Sometimes it will suddenly just take off and things will be fine, other times I have to shut it off.

    What's really odd is that if I shut it off and turn it right back on, I can drive off with no problems. Seems to happen mostly first thing in the morning or after sitting for a couple of hours.

    Thoughts?
  • jkratmanjkratman Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    I was hoping someone might help-- My Cherokee (101k miles) has recently started bucking/hesitating at 2000 RPMs, usually on up hill climbs. OBD2 says multiple misfire....I replaced the plugs, same problem.

    It tends to last a bit, than stop, usually accompanied by a blinking check engine light, which I assume is the misfire, then it runs fine. It rarely happens when I start it cold and drive to work (1+ hour)

    It seems to do it more after short stops/restarts (like gas station, quick store stop), but it's getting worse.

    Any thoughts? I'm thinking TPS?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    that is the first thin to try also crank pos senser (rear of ingine driver side PIA to get to
  • george1024george1024 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Edition (4.7L Power Tech V8). About 2 months ago I started having a problem.

    I went to start my vehicle and nothing happened. It was like there was no power. No lights on the dash, no lights on the cd player, and I could hear a clicking noise. However I know the vehicle did have some power going through because I could hear the CD changer resetting.

    After taking the key out and trying again it started. However immediatley after starting the vehicle died out. It did this another 10 or so times. I then started it and gave it some gas to keep it going, this worked and I was able to put it into drive.

    Once it was in drive everytime I took my foot off the gas and attempted to stop/slowdown the RPM would drop to almost zero, then it would stall out.

    Once I start it back up again, the RPM goes up and down a lot, and then it will eventually stall out again.

    I took it to the garage and they replaced something to do with the throttle (I don't know the exact part) and they have replaced the MAP sensor.

    Everything was working good until today, when I went to start it. First it did the same thing. At first no power, and a clicking noise. Then everything kicked on and it started.

    Of course as soon as it started it immediately stalled out. Again it did this for another 5-6 times until I kept my foot on the gas and put it in drive. Again still when ever I take my foot off the gas or apply the breaks, the RPM drops to about 100-200, and then after a few moments it will die out.

    After it runs for a few minutes in drive, if I shut it off and start it again, it will stay started, but the RPM will flucuate between 100-400, and then eventually stall out.

    My garage doesn't seem to have any idea what could be causing this. And I don't want to keep dropping money into new parts that may or may not fix the issue. Any ideas what this could be?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how are the battery conections also how old is the battery if more than year or two old change that first cheap to replace and will take care of prob 75 per cent of time
  • goldenbettygoldenbetty Member Posts: 2
    When I start the engine it starts at high rpm's then settles down. When I am driving and come to a stop, it tries to lurch and goes into high rpm's. At times it seems that the gas pedal is stuck. I press it to kick the rpm's down. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't.

    Cruise control - while engaged, the rpm's go up and down continuously.

    Any suggestions? :sick:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how many miles
    sounds as is your tps (throttle posising sencer) is dirty or bad
  • phin1983phin1983 Member Posts: 1
    I have been having problems with my 2003 jeep cherokee, when I start i the engine idles to approx 2000rmps and stays there for 10 seconds. When i am driving the rpms are jumping up and the vehicle :confuse: jerks . I need to pull over and shut it off, then it works fine. also when I am coming to stop the rpms stay high and the front end vibrates. some days it runs fine but most days it does not. the check engine light has turned on ,but turns off once I turn the vehicle off and on. I took it to mechanic , he tuned it and adjusted some valve. it worked fine for couple of hrs. when they check the computer for the messages, it showed two oxygen sensors defective , they were replaced , it worked fine for one day. I am still having the same problem. any help for feedback would be appreciated. I have already spent to much money on these repairs. thanks .
  • goldenbettygoldenbetty Member Posts: 2
    This wasn't my post. I have the 2004 4.7L H.O. with the idle problem. See my post.
    Thanks. What do you think?
    goldenbetty
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    still think you have bad tps

    the tps tells the computer where the throttle plate is if it says that it is not all the way closed at idel the computer thinks that you are pushing on the gas tells injectors to inject more gas air mixture gets high with unbernt gas senced by oxy sencer tell computer to not inject as much gas tps sends reading that plates are open when they are if fact closed cycle starts all over
  • plaidadplaidad Member Posts: 3
    When it stalls I can tap on the left most connector on the computer module (facing fire wall) and it will start and run fine. The computer module is less than a year old. Is there something I can do short of replacing the module?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    deconect the battery
    unplug the wires that plug in to computer and plug in unplug couple times see if that dont fix prob

    could be dirty contacts unplugin and plugin in scrapes the contacts clean
  • johnmulljohnmull Member Posts: 1
    1997 Grand Cherokee. 4.0L Runs great but when it is cold it takes 5 to 7 sec to turn over. Any subsequence starts are normal.
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    I have a '93 GC that takes a very long time to start in cool and cold weather. I usually need to crank it at least once before it will start normally in warm weather or after it has been running. Once started it runs fine. Sometimes while sitting at a light, it will falter or idle will drop slightly. After running for extended period at high speeds then shut off (like when getting gas) it will idle at around 100 RPM for about thirty seconds before dropping back to a normal level.
    I have replaced the fuel & air filters and done complete tuneup (cap, rotor, plugs, wires)
    I'm not usre if these problems are related or separate issues. My main issue is the starting problem.
    Any good suggestions? :sick: :confuse:
  • rscottarscotta Member Posts: 3
    Sounds similar to my problem. There are a few things I've found that will cause your problem (and mine). There is an auto disconnect relay that, when open, removes power to the injectors, fuel pump, etc. I've been working my way through the drawings to see what all is effected. Problem is, I haven't been able to find a good description of what inputs to the computer will cause the ADR to open. I'm getting ready to replace the temp sensor to see if that is where my problem is.
  • plaidadplaidad Member Posts: 3
    For what it's worth, tapping on the connector works, but there seems to be something going on with the auto door lock on drivers side, it sticks and now I get a static shock when I get out of the car. This use to happen months ago, but quit, Now I am not sure if it's the connector (now clean and taped to the board) or if discharging to ground changes the state of the solid state circuits in the computer. I think the intermittent shock and door lock problem are related to the connector, mean time I discharge the static charge with my key before I touch anything.....keeps me on my toes..
  • hank778hank778 Member Posts: 6
    my problem was three wire connections in the wiring harness to the computer. pull back the black plastic and wiggle the wires when warmed up and running. youll see three spliced connections. if it dies then theres your problem. i just wirnutted them. there also a small guage ground wire coming of the neg. battery terminal. thats the ground to the computer. the connection a foot back can become a problem also. good luck, the adr relay is interchangable with a few other fuses.let me know what you find out
  • ralkaralka Member Posts: 72
    I have 2 jgc's one is a 97 4.oL the other is a 96 5.2L . as odd as it is they both have developed the same problem. the 96 will bigin to buck or jolt once or twice when under a slight load at appx 1500rpm's also has a surge at idle. the 97 has the same symptoms if anyone has any ideas i would sure like to hear them
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    clean throtal body change tps as prob has bad spot in variable resistor (when you are driving the throttle sits in same spot foe long periods of time (around 1500 2000 rpm) gets worn in that area)
  • ngharteykngharteyk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Grand Jeep Cherokee. When I start it starts but does not stay on.What is going on?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if key sencer is not working right try your other key
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    I had this same problem with mine. Try resetting your alarm system. If it has been triggered, you will be able to start the engine but it will only run for a few seconds.
  • daphendaphen Member Posts: 2
    when the car stalls or will not start, open the hood and find the brain box... pass side on firewall push/wiggle the middle wiring knuckle then try to start it. I removed mine, cleaned the contacts, pinched the contacts together and put on some electrical jellly. I did this 3 weeks ago and have only stalled once since. Once you get this connection tight enough the CE light will go off too (did with mine).
    It is simply a faulty wiring knuckle but getting Jeep to fes up to it and turn it into a recall will be the fun part....hope this helps
    Missy
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