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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • daphendaphen Member Posts: 2
    get someone to REMOVE the alarm system....will only take about 1 hour tops
    we have 3 jeeps and have removed them from all 3 (just in case)
  • 2006noxm2006noxm Member Posts: 3
    99 JGC with 150K miles, has stall problems when starting in cold weather. We live in southern MD and the weather is turning cold. When starting it stalls. Had a warm spell a couple of weeks ago and no problems. Repeated attempts to start will stall if gas pedal is not applied. After running the engine for approx 5 min, it will start and stay running. In the morning, car is in the garage and it starts first time and stays running. In the afternoon, after car has been out all day the problem occurs. Have taken it to the local mechanic we have used for 10 years and he can't find anything wrong, It did happen for him but no codes showed up. any suggestions?
  • hondajeep95hondajeep95 Member Posts: 3
    After bringing my Jeep to the local dealership I was told the reason why no error code displayed (when stalling) was because the computer was defective. They told me I needed a new computer ($1,100) to then diagnose the problem. So even with a new compter I would still have the problem...I said adios.... Anyway.. since I stopped using the A/C the problem has not returned. Running two months clean since I stopped using A/C. If you are having intermittent stalling problems and using the A/C... stop using it and see if the problem goes away.
  • dave5centsdave5cents Member Posts: 6
    Had a similar problem. Replaced the battery, problem went away. Very common problem with JGC. Have your mechanic check the battery.

    Dave
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    I thinks that's a bit of overkill. It's like removing your brain to avoid headaches. :surprise:
  • bandit71bandit71 Member Posts: 1
    I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction on this odd situation. Yesterday when I went to start my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee I got nothing. No gauges energized up or anything. When I turned the key backwards to Aux power, the radio was very very dim and pulsated but would not turn on. I pulled the terminals from the battery and cleaned them just to rule this out. Well the car started right up after reconnecting the battery. I immediately turned the car off to try and restart again to make sure everything was fine but there it was again. All gauges dead and no response at all trying to start.
    Here is where it gets weird. I was turning the key to start and let it come back to run position a few times then all of a sudden on like the 4th try, the dash board lit up and the vehicle started fine. Needless to say this leaves a very bad feeling when driving out far from home especially since the wife uses this vehicle too.

    This morning, I go out to start it and again no power but this time, all the guages(exept the Tach and Speedo) were pulsing up and down. This is with no key in or anything. They were going by themselves. I went to the battery and was getting a variable reading of between 6-8 volts. (pulsing like the gauges). I unhooked the battery and reconnected and everything powers up again fine and the battery is now reading normal at 12.5 volts.

    Before unhooking the battery this last time I was pulling fuses and relays to try and isolate a possible short and got the pulsing to stop on the gauges when fuse Skim/Hood Lmp or Overhead RRwipe was pulled. Not sure if related but it did make the gauges stop bouncing. No relays being pulled stopped it.

    Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't want to get trapped out somewhere with this thing dead. This may be the obivous and just be a bad battery(bought 1.5 years ago but you never know.) going to have it tested later today.

    Again the main thing that stands out is when I unhook the battery then reconnect, it seems to correct itself and power up fine (and even odder, it goes from reading variable 6-8 volts to 12.5 after the disconnect reconnect)
  • bradpansbradpans Member Posts: 3
    My 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee is experiencing the same problem of stalling. Sometimes I can't start in the morning, stalls in the middle of the road, but after a few minutes of waiting it will start again. I have replaced the fuel pump (there is no fuel filter for 1997-99 outside), crank position sensor replaced spark plugs, clean the ignition system. I read in this forum about the battery,(sometimes it reads 6-8 volts but once started goes back to 12-13. There is no check engine codes. Any other suggestion?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how old is the battery if older than year or two change that first as jeeps dont like voltage varences that well battery is only 75 85 bucks at wall mart then see if prob goes away
  • ike21ike21 Member Posts: 14
    Once again. 90% of the time it's the Throttle Position Sensor. $30 at parts store and 5 minutes to change. If it's not the TPS it's going to be the Idle Air control Sensor, about same price and little longer to change because of placement. I fix Jeeps everyday all day.
  • fresh121fresh121 Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem with my 1999 Grand Cherokee stalling. A new crankshaft position sensor solved the problem. When installed it started with no problem. It is located on top of the bell housing, awkward to get to but if you remove it there may be oil deposits on the end stopping the signal passing through.
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    The '93 is a 4.0. I replaced the battery with no apparent change in the problem. During the starting sequence, in the morning or after sitting for several hours, the check engine light does not come on (trouble light test sequence) for a few minutes. When it does come on, then the fuel pump will start. I don't want to just start replacing parts without some idea of what is causing the problem. Any help anyone can give would be greatly appreciated.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    try a new ingnition switch sounds as if not making good contact when it gets cool out sets down on stearing coluem by your feet
  • pla4kpspla4kps Member Posts: 10
    im having major problems with my 97 cherokee. i dont have spark. so far i have tested and replaced the batt, the coil, the crank sensor, the cam sensor ( aka the sync signal generator inside the distributor ) and have tested power at the coil. i am getting power at the green / orange wire . when i flip the test light to + i am getting ground at the coil but not while cranking. i have tested the wire from the pcm to the coil and it isnt broken or damaged. the truck sat in an impound for 2 1/2 years before i bought it. it took close to an hour to get it jumped and running and even still i had to keep my foot on the gas at all times or it would stall. can the pcm lose its memory?? does it have to be reflashed?? is their anyway to do it myself?? thanks everyone for your help.
  • pla4kpspla4kps Member Posts: 10
    I FOUND THIS ONLINE AND IT MAY HELP YOU

    Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board. Chrysler PCM p/n P56028412, s/n TEH106636023.

    Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn’t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
    At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn’t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it’s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I’m a trusting soul, but let’s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, “We don’t know what it could be, good luck with that”. Now my wife knows why I don’t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
    My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it’s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don’t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn’t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn’t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn’t start! That was the point when my wife asked, “How’s it going?” And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, “what the ----?” That’s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, “Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.” DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4” long, factory screws are 1/2” long Torx head), and she’s been running great ever since.
    Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8”-1/4” (don’t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems – what will and what won’t cause the problem. Good luck.
    As a side note, if you want to see a service manager’s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It’s a glorious sight.

    AND IF THIS DOESNT WORK TRY THE CAM SENSOR ( AKA THE IGNITION PICK UP COIL INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE POWER TO THE COIL BY USING A TEST LIGHT. GROUND THE TEST LIGHT AND CHECK THE GREEN / ORANGE WIRE AT THE COIL FOR POWER THEN PUT THE TEST LIGHT ON + AND CHECK THE GRAY / WHITE WIRE FOR GROUND. HOPE IT HELPS
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    My message was an update of an earlier post about the same problem. A 93 GC limited does not list the part you recommended. I'm still looking for the source of the problem.
  • pla4kpspla4kps Member Posts: 10
    ok which part?? the ignition pick up ( aka cam sensor??) take the 2 screws out of the dist cap , pull the cap , pop off the rotor, there will be a black ring that the 3 wires of the dist connect to , pop the ring loose and take it to the parts srore . i got mine at auto zone for under 35 bucks
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    He was suggesting the ignition switch that sets down on steering column by your feet. The GC limited does not list that switch. The cam sensor would show different symptoms. Right now, the only real symptom mine shows is a long wait, when I turn the key to the "on" position, until the check engine light comes on in the pre-start test sequence. This can take up to two minutes on a cold day. When that light comes on THEN the fuel pump will come on and the engine starts and runs normally. After the engine starts, the light goes out as it is supposed to.
    This problem would have me pulling my hair out if I had any to spare!
  • pla4kpspla4kps Member Posts: 10
    the guy at the parts store is who i guess your referring to and the only time ive had problems with cold and electrical is because the cold can make the ohms of a resistor ( electrical component fluctuate ) if you trust his judge ment and want to give it a go i would remove my lower dash panel and the metal shroud underneath ( a #2 phillips head and 1/4 in drive ratchet and a 7, 8 and 10 mm should get the job done nicely ) and the plastic on the steering column ( may need some torx bits ) and do a wiggle test. isolate the wires from the ignition ( 2 constant powers 2 ignition powers a strarter wire and a wire for aux power ( key back ) and trace them to the switch. use a test light to find these six wires the should be bigger than the rest ans see if your jeep has and anti theft ring going around the ignition itself to sense a chip in the key. it could be that a factory security system is not picking up the signal from the chip and therefore not turning on the fuel pump.
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    The guy I'm referring to si tuggajb, who responded to my post outlining my problem. When I responded to his post, it feel in line under yours. If you look inside the top of each message box, it will show a link to the message being responded to. I was not responding to your long post before because mine is a different problem. But, having said that, I will take suggestions where I can find them and check out the one you gave me. One note...the '93 GC limited does not have a chip in the key.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    if you have air bags it is at the top of stearing colum
    http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a9f71
    use this url to read about it
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    Another outlay of money that has made NO DIFFERENCE! I replaced the ignition switch and nothing has changed. I fear this is going to end up being the PCM. With cash being tight, this is not a good thing. If anyoone has any knowledge about this, now is a good time to share, before I crash by budget.
  • 2006noxm2006noxm Member Posts: 3
    1. Replaced throttle position sensor- no joy.
    2. Replaced battery (it was low)- no joy.
    3. Checked PCM cover screws- no joy.
    4. Cleaned middle knuckle electrical connection- no joy.

    This problem is that the engine won't stay running after it starts when it it cold outside (approx. below 30 degrees). When it's a little bit warmer (35-40 degrees), this problem does not occur, it starts and stays running.

    It was at the mechanic all day today and it was acting up all day. The mechanic ended up cleaning the throttle plate (carbon build up) and making an adjustment to the idle screw.

    Any suggestions??
  • ElTejanoElTejano Member Posts: 1
    Thats good to know about the sensor. Would this cause the battery to die. My jeep just recently started doing this and the battery has been going dead, as well.

    It will not crank over at all, just clicks. Will let it sit for a few minutes and it will slowly crank over til it starts. Sometimes it will run rough and die without the gas pushed but eventually will smooth out.

    This morning it was below 30 degrees for the first time and the battery is completely dead.

    I am just frustrated. If I had any clue that this problem existed, I would never have bought a Jeep.
  • walt36walt36 Member Posts: 1
    sounds like a bad coil
  • dark227dark227 Member Posts: 1
    I was headed to work when my check engine light came on just 2km from home so I went back home and had to drive another car. A few days later I drove the jeep a few feet and turned around because the gas pedal seemed stiffer than normal and the speedometer wasn't moving.

    I used the On-Board Diagnostic System and it gave the following messages: Power to Powertrain Control Module was disconnected and Throttle Position Sensor input below/above acceptable voltage. What should I do? Are these problems related? I just sold the car to my cousin (before this happened) but I don't want to give it to him like this, at the same time I gave it to him for a very low price so I don't want to spend too much fixing it either. Help?
  • cardshark10469cardshark10469 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2002 jgc overland when i start it after its been sitting for a while or over night mostly and when its cold outside it wont keep running unless i hold the gas until it ewill finally run itself. Then when i put it in gear to go it will stall out again.after driving for a while it will finally start and go no problem most of the time. battery gauge will fluctuate but battery is good.This morning i had the same problem as usual except it starting smoking very badly.i had a shop reset the throttle control but it did no good.any suggestions are welcomed...thank you,freddy
  • claire5claire5 Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    Can anyone help when my car is warm, not at proper running temp and not cold it sometimes wont start. It is a 1999 4.7l V8. We've replaced the crank sensor, and fuel pump still no joy, it shows a fuel error when it dosent start but my garage cant find the problem it also has an LPG conversion but this has been checked and apparently is fine. Please if anyone can help I would be very grateful.
    Claire
  • chas83chas83 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It runs fine once I get it going but it's hard getting it into drive without it stalling out. Have you found your problem yet?
    Thanks Chuck
  • barnaby95barnaby95 Member Posts: 10
    Two things to check. The throttle position sensor and the idle air control. They are both located near each other on top of the intake manifold. I would do the IAC first, then if that doesn't fix it go with the TPS. They run about $45.00 each and are easy to replace. You'll need a torx driver for it. A 20, I believe.
  • fivel47fivel47 Member Posts: 3
    I have an update...long over due on my problem.....The crankshaft sensor fixed my stalling problem. Off course shortly after fixing that, I had my ignition break....and now it looks like I need a radiator!!! Wow...not bad for only having the jeep since May!! (I fully expected some things breaking, but not so fast and all at once) I am starting to get a different feeling about jeeps:(
  • ag30ag30 Member Posts: 2
    I had the catalytic converter replaced in my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee last year as part of a recall requirement so that I could get it registered in California. Two weeks afterward, it started dying on me at stop signs and red lights. I took it back to the dealer, where I got some vague explanations and another new catalytic converter. Car was fine afterwards and I took it two months ago for service. Three days after they serviced it, the check engine light came on. Against my better judgment, I took it back to the dealer and they claimed it was the converter again! I was able to get the part under warranty - but had to pay for two O2 sensors and labor, which was aggravating but fine - until ONE DAY after I picked the car up: it now makes a terrible rumbling sound when I start it up and the throttling is ridiculous. Anyone else have problems with this part??? I'm almost afraid to take it back to the dealer - every time they touch it, it just gets worse!
  • plaidadplaidad Member Posts: 3
    I solved my problem by doing a couple of things. In addition to the stalling or failing to start, (One of the symptoms was that I would get a small shock when I exited the vehicle.) I replaced the ground cable on the battery, cleaned and refastened all connections for ground. In addition I was having a problem with the auto door lock on the drivers side door. It appeared to me that I was getting the shock because of the current path through the "coil" of the door lock. I took off the door panels and disconnected all of the door modules from the cable assembly. I drove the car around, started it many times and then let it sit. Just to be sure I charged the battery, and then hooked everything back up except for the the electronic door lock on the drivers side. No more shocks, no more stalls, no more failure to start. I replaced the electronic door lock mechanism and put it back together. I haven't had a problem since. It appears to me that any path of current to ground even a small one, does some crazy things to the computer sensor board and problems ensue. Good luck.
  • jedkindjedkind Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 JGC with the 4.0. It will start and run fine then after a while it will stall out then it wont restart for 5 to 20 min. When it restarts it runs fine. I dont know what causes it to stall you can be sitting idle or driving 70mph never know when it is going to happen. I have run at least three bottles of dry gas through it and there are no check engine lights on. Any ideas? Thanks
  • dcb11dcb11 Member Posts: 1
    About 3 months ago, the jeep would not start. When I turned the key to the on position, all of the dashboard lights would come on and everything seemed normal, until I tried to start it. Nothing happened, it didn't crank, it didn't try at all. After sitting for a few hours it started fine. I took it to a mechanic and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I haven't had any issues until now. The same issue occured, however this time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the mechanic and they replaced a relay switch and it started. They took the new relay switch out and placed the old one back in and it started. They couldn't get it not to start again. The next day, the issue is back, it still will not start. I moved the switches around as the mechanic suggested, however the jeep still will not start. There are no other symptoms displaying. I am open to any suggestions at this point.
  • mountanbikermountanbiker Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong with the jeep? Mines doing the same thing.
  • penman1penman1 Member Posts: 2
    im haveing a problum with a 98 jgc it starts fine some times and most of the time it starts but it has no power you tuch the gas it dies and thars no rpms ther you shut it off it will start and have the rpms i put in a new cam and crank sensor i tride a used computr and still the same thig it has a code fro cam and crank sensor intermitent short or grownd or bad pcm any help pleas
  • hank778hank778 Member Posts: 6
    my problem was the wiring harness going to the pcm. try jiggling it while engine is running. three spliced conections in the wiring harness where bad on Mine. i wire nutted them. works good now. on mine theres also a small gauge ground wire coming off the neg. bat terminal. that connection can go bad also. good luck
  • hank778hank778 Member Posts: 6
    small gauge ground wire is to the pcm
  • khylton3khylton3 Member Posts: 2
    well i have not had this exact problem with my 2000 jgc mine would only stall when i was idleing and it was the sensor for the idle. but i had a honda and it would do exactly what you have said and it ended up being the fuel relay. we figured this out after replaceing the fuel pump and filter and the problem was still there so we replaced the relay switch for the fuel pump. and it ran perfect after that.
  • penman1penman1 Member Posts: 2
    I CHECKED THE GROWND WIRES ALL SEAM TO BE GOOD AND NO VISABULE DAMEGES TO WIRES
  • jmunson76021jmunson76021 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8. We have been having starting problems intermittently over the past 6 months. When turning key the gauges and lights come on, but the engine does not turn over. No clicking noise etc. We let the car sit for 5 -15 minutes and it would crank like a champ. We replaced the starter a week ago and all was fine until yesterday. My wife had the same problem starting the car, letting it sit and it started as before. When coming home she tried to start it and it acted up again. We let it sit 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 2 Hours and nothing. Before I have it towed to the dealership. Does anyone have any answer for this problem?
  • mwolf9000mwolf9000 Member Posts: 29
    Start with the simple things like the battery connections and ground connection. Make sure they're clean and tight.
  • navigator8420navigator8420 Member Posts: 1
    i had a big problem too mtry the coil . mine was idling irregulary ,back firing, surging,not wanting to start runs great now
  • jmunson76021jmunson76021 Member Posts: 2
    At 8:00 AM, I drove out to our dead Jeep GCL and tried to start it before calling for a tow and you guessed it. It started like a champ just as before. By they way I have tried both keys we have and have narrowed it down to a non key issue but could be the module on board issue. There is a possibility it could be a bad cellenoid on the new starter (low probability though). Some where there is no voltage getting to the starter.

    We are frustrated and back to square one. It will be hard for a shop to diagnose if it is currently running.

    Any suggestions or advise on what to do? Frustrated in DFW!
  • cj71980jeepcj71980jeep Member Posts: 2
    I have an 2003 Grand Cherokee and it has been parked for 3 months, when I tried to start it, it would start but will not keep running it just dies after a few seconds, it will restart just fine but still won't keep running, and when I try to give it gas to keep it running it just dies again. If you can give me a direction on what to look for or replace please do..

    Thanks
  • khylton3khylton3 Member Posts: 2
    that would be your throtle body sensor which is behind the air filter. there are two sensors placed behind there on the top behind the air filter cover. it wasn't that hard for me to replace the one on my 2000 JGC. mine was having problems starting and staying started here and there then it just wouldnt idle and would cut off if i wasn't driving a certain speed. it was hell jsut to get it to go with out stalling, what is you RPMs saying when you first try to start it before it cuts off?
  • cj71980jeepcj71980jeep Member Posts: 2
    I am not sure since I am not there doing the starting. It just starts no problem but won't idle. I parked it 3.5 months ago and had the guy at the storage lot start it for me. He said it would go up to around 1000 and then drop off and dye. I am leaving tomorrow to albuquerque to work on it. I will try the throttle body sensor first. If you think of anything else that it might be please let me know as it has been some time since I worked on engines the last one being my 89 grand wagoneer that I rebuilt the 360 in, but this is a totally different thing now with computers and sensors and the such. I am hoping for something simple like what you described otherwise I will have it towed to the dealership on saturday and have to leave it with them until I get back up there next month. Thanks again.
  • 97BeachJeep97BeachJeep Member Posts: 2
    Hey All,

    Been looking at some of your posts to see if they mirror my problem but none quite do. Just got off the phone with my neighborhood service station who couldn't figure out what was wrong. Here's the problem:

    On cold days (especially) engine stalls and cuts out even after its been running for a good 20-30 minutes. Seems to happen especially when I'm moving slowly (<20 mph) down a side street and go to make a turn. Also happens just sitting in park and sometimes when I go to move out at a traffic light or stop sign. Thought maybe there is a fuel system problem but mechanic said no because it starts right back up. He put it on their diagnostic machine and it's not showing any codes or problems. Asked what to do and he said probably it's an electrical problem and will need to go to the dealership (AHHH!!).

    I'd appreciate any suggestions or advice.

    CB
  • 97BeachJeep97BeachJeep Member Posts: 2
    Just ran across your post. Have a question for you. When your Jeep would stall were you applying the brakes at the time?

    I'm having a stalling problem and my mechanic can't figure it out. Said basically take it to the dealer or wait for it to get worse!

    Anyway, thanks.

    CB
  • myposmypos Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a rebuilt engine in it there are about 20,000 miles on the new engine and just turned the car over 249,000 the other day. Last week the water pump and the fuel pressure regulator were replaced and about a month ago i replaced the battery cables (and yes the whole wiring harness battery cables not just the ends). And now after the water pump was replaced the check engine light came on accompanied by a rough start. The engine turns over and over and over and then finally starts up soon to die with a jolt and a shake. It does this a few times until it stays running for a little bit longer then finally after about the fifth time i try to start it the car finally stays running. But it is idling rough and once i put it in drive it dies again. To make a long story short I finally get it running but just today it started to back fire while driving (we all know thats not a good thing) and it's having trouble finding the right gear to get optimum performance. PLEASE somebody tell me what the hell is wrong with this gd stupid POS! I don't want to put in a bunch of money to fix it being that it is only worth $700 I just want it to work and not die on me.
    :lemon: :sick: By big red needs some serious medical assistance so please reply if you know whats going on with her.
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