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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • dopa911dopa911 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 JGC laredo V8 auto, that I just got,here's the problem, It starts great when cold but when it runs for a while and I shut it off and wait about 45min to a hour it starts hard ( Have to crank for around 10 12 seconds is this normal ) have to crank it longer then I did when it was cold sometimes longer then others, I changed the plugs, no distribitor or rotor. I get from reading in the forums it sounds like it might be the Crankshaft Position Sensor? Changed the CPS seems to run smoother but still starts hard when hot What if the battriey is smaller the the orignal? Thanks
  • dopa911dopa911 Member Posts: 7
    Hey
    I to have a 2001 JGCL with the same problem, I know this a old post but did you ever resolve the problem?
  • cardshark10469cardshark10469 Member Posts: 3
    not sure but heard that other people had the same prob, eventually the head gasket blew out on theirs and turned out was a warped head that just finally gave way...good luck
  • AlexwastakenAlexwastaken Member Posts: 2
    When I come to a stop with the car in gear my RPM's go from the normal 800ish down to around 200 or so and then back up. And a handful of times it has died. This only happens when in gear. (Its and automatic btw) And sometimes it stays at the noraml 800 RPMs with no problem. Other than that, the car drives fine. No problems when its in park, or when cruising down the highway. Its been having this problem for about a year now. Anyone have similar problems?
  • gcl1gcl1 Member Posts: 1
    My guess is that you have the 4.7L v-8. If so, the dealer may need to reflash the computer. I have had the problem only a couple of times, but the new flash should help it.
  • AlexwastakenAlexwastaken Member Posts: 2
    It could be a computer problem? I never thought of that. I just imagined it to be more mechanical than that. Although, I believe that it is a 4.0L strait 6. Its a 1997 Grand Cherokee Laredo.
  • pedroman74pedroman74 Member Posts: 2
    tripper, did you ever figure out what the problem was? My Jeep is doing this as of this morning.

    Thanks,

    Pete
  • texgkingtexgking Member Posts: 6
    I've read most of the posts and nothing quite like this one. My GC stall at highway speeds, 20 miles per hour and even stop. Just stops when it want too. No codes in the system. I've changed the CPS as many people indicated that item was a common problem, new battery, cleaned the grounds, new battery terminals, 3/4 tank of gas. The dealership said I needed a new "brain" before they could trouble shoot it, because for some reason it would erase all codes whenever this problem occurred.
    One thing I have not seen mentioned is after mine stalls, you sit for maybe 1 or 2 minutes and each time you try to start it, it will crank, no start, but the fuel gage is reading below zero. The rest of the lights and gages work per normal at that point. Now after awhile when you turn the switch on, the fuel gage registers the 3/4 tank and it will always start right up!
    When I first drove yesterday after all the stated repairs, it ran fine for the first 15 miles, then quit about 8 times over the next 6 miles getting home. It alway starts after the fuel gage starts registering and has never failed to start. It is those honking horns at the light that get me..ha.
    Some one told me that the GC fuel gage ground was thru the ECU or PCU don't remember which, but I assume they mean the main "Brain".
    Even the manual code reading of turning on the switch 3 times only gets "done" code, nothing else.
    Also, not sure if this is realated but I get some beeps after the seatbelt warning etc. The last thing is two series of 3 beeps. Very distinctive beeps. Always 3beeps and short pause and 3 more. Ik can't seems to find anything about these beeps.
    Anyone have a solution to either of these problems? My next step is replacing the ECU, the local parts place needs the vin, mileage,etc so they can flash it before sending it to me. Anyone had any luck changing the ECU?

    Thanks for your assistance.
  • texgkingtexgking Member Posts: 6
    Did you ever solve this entirely? Are you using the AC yet? My 2000 JGC Limited 4.7 got the same review from the dealer. Said the computer was not storing the codes and every time it quit it would reset itself.. I said adios too but have not solved the problem yet. ORiley's auto parts call the computer the ECU and is available for $145 or so. I'm about ready to try one I thing, mine quits 6-8 times in 20 miles. Gotta limp home. It alway starts after a couple minuted. BUT only after the fuel gage begins to register. If the fuel gage does not come up, it will crank but not start. Wait another minute, the gage registers, and it always starts. I did not have my AC turned on the other day and it still quit 5-6 times.
    Hope yours is fixed.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    i would check the fuses under the hood by the battery as i you lose power to the computer will erace the codes could just be croded contacts also i would just plug and unplug the ecm a cople times and see if that takes care of prob.
  • texgkingtexgking Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, I will try that before ordering one. Seems several people have had bad wires, bare wires etc in and around this item, mine seems quite clean, but you never can tell. I will pull it out and look closely for sure.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    the pcm sets right in front of your coolent tank
    the wires that go into it are held in with a long bolt in the middle under the first cover you see what i did was loosen the bolt and unplug and plug in cople times then reassembled it took care of prob REMBER TO UNHOOK YOU BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING
  • airmaxprezairmaxprez Member Posts: 1
    my 2000 jeep stalls intermittantly when it does the rpms go up but it feels like the brakes are on if i stop the rpms drop low and are erratic and when i shut it off it acts like it resets itself and drives normal. in the mornings going to work the overdrive wont kick in but if i stop and shut it off it will work normal after that i had a computer check done on it and it came back- overdrive switch input low,- transmission fault present, - fuel system lean,- trans relay output always off,- trd link communication error i took it to a transmission shop and they replaced the coil pack the filters and new fluid it worked ok for a couple days and then went right back to doing what it did before any ideas thanks
  • hanihoney36hanihoney36 Member Posts: 1
    I have a beloved 1998 JGC Ltd. It has a rebuilt engine that has approx. 75,000 miles on it! I just had the housing unit between the engine and radiator (?) replaced in December. I know the wires and hoses are aging.

    Problem: After approx 2 minutes of running, it will completely die if it is not given gas. If I am at a light/stop sign/slowing down, etc, I must keep foot on gas as I brake or it will die...no sputter, no engine light, no warning- just die. Seems to do this whether gas tank is full or low, and whether it is warm or cold outside. It was doing this intermittently, but now does it all the time.

    Husband tried doing internal diagnostic check, but no luck. Anyone else w/ similar problem or ideas. We are going to buy a new car soon anyway, but I would love to pass my Jeep on to my nephew, but I want it to run for him! Thanks!
  • mainsjmainsj Member Posts: 1
    You are not alone. Our 2004 JGC did the same thing last week and then again this morning. The battery is less than a year old with no corrosion on the wires or terminals.
  • rosebuddoverosebuddove Member Posts: 2
    My problems began when a large tree branch fell on and around me while driving. I ran over some small branches. I heard a noise and check to see if I had a branch in a tire. Nothing. I was 40 miles from home. I got gas. The jeep sputtered for the first time since I had it. Shortly after the check engine light came on.

    A tester said it was a P035 issue. When I checked the jeep computer, it said the same thing. My son drove the jeep and the light went out. It came back on a couple weeks later. When I called the garage, the man said the jeep's computer is not accurate and neither was the tester my son used.

    Regardless, I chose not to visit the mechanic since the light went back off.

    I went to leave today and I had not driven the Jeep in a week. I found my passenger door open and a light left and it barely cranked over. It sounded like a really dead battery. By a miracle it started.

    The idle is very slow. It died once at a red light. I went to a parts store and saw a man in the parking lot. I told him my story. He crawled under and said there were no loose wires on my sensors.

    I feel like this is my fault because I did not go to the garage when the light went on, but I could not see paying him to tell me what was wrong when the Jeep was telling me what was wrong. I just wanted the sensor replaced. He wanted to do a whole anaylis. I did not see it that way.

    So now my beloved Jeep is running like crap. I have two long trips to make beginning in two days. My options are not looking so good.

    Will it hurt to run it like this until next week? Do you think it will leave me? I am thinking it could be the converter.

    I am sorry for such long details and I appreciate any advice.
  • buddy98buddy98 Member Posts: 2
    I just replaced the distributor, coil, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, plugs, wires, fuel pump, cap and button. It will start sometimes but stalls imediatley. Check engine light will not come on. Im running out of ideas. HELP!!!!!!!!
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    I have a Jeep Cherokee sport 1993 346K miles, out of the blue I went to start it after just driving it, ideled about 2K then just kept stalling. I changed the fuel filter and still the same issue. Checked fuses. I can hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key.???????????? Did a fuel pressure check and upon turning the key it was I think around 30 and then it just started dropping, after it stalled the fuel pump kicks back on and the pressure jumps back up. Any Suggestions???? Please help
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    O2 sensor maybe? Whatever the problem is, I am impressed by the 346K number! :surprise:

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    fuel filter, looks like you missed that or just didn't type it
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    Yes, it runs like a top normally, the only thing I have ever changed on this is the fuel filter a couple of years ago and an alternator. Starting to rust now live in Michigan. Where and what is the O2 sensor???? Thanks, Jeff
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    have a 93 Jeep Cherokee Sport, was running fine then went to start it and it fired up then stalled out chugging etc. Changed fuel filter. I can hear the fuel pump kick on each time, when it stalls I also hear the fuel pump kick back on automatically. Did a fuel pressure test and it drops after start up and then kick backs up after it stalls.
    Please help with any suggestions you may have. Great jeep for 346K miles
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Have a look at http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1ae903/0

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Sounds like either a IAC (Idle Air Control) switch might be sticking. I'd also check hot and cold fuel pressure. Sometimes if theres a weak fuel pump it will pump fine while warm but if the pump is cold and the fuel pump vanes are shrunken(as everything swells when warm) your pump pressure will drop if the pump is worn. I'd also check pressure before and after the fuel filter. Another thing; if the cold start circuit for the injection is getting bad readings( O2 sensor old and worn, coolant temp sensor worn or air in the coolant system causing air pockets) you may not be able to get the thing to fire due to a lean condition.

    Just a thought.
  • SvennypoSvennypo Member Posts: 2
    < I tried to start my 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee this morning and it was hard to get it to run. when i pushed on the throttle it felt like it had a short in the electrical circuit , because it stumbled or ran rough for a little bit before it would run smooth . I opend the hood to see if i could see anything unusual. It was idling just fine , then i went to get my volt/ amp meter to check to system. The engine shut off and would not start again. I tried to see if I had power going to the coil but I could not get a reading. I tried to get a reading by cranking the engine over , but no reading / or power to the coil. I have no book or manuel to look at. Is this a pcm problem? How do i check the pcm out?
  • goofyandpoohgoofyandpooh Member Posts: 1
    I have a &#145;98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, it started stalling out while being driven at least at 30MPH+ or as we come to a slow stop. Took it in to the shop, did a tune-up, examined fuel filter (no prob), replaced TPS (Throttle Position Sensor?), got the car back, drove about 4 miles and it stalled! Drove it back to shop, they kept for add&#146;l 3 days, did not stall on them (of course). They put the old TPS back in since it stalled on a new one thinking the old one was fine. Replaced the Ignition Coil. Just got it back today, drove about 2.5 miles stalled out on us 3x. I revved the engine, in neutral at 3500-4000 RPMs & it still stalled out! It feels like as if the fuel mixture is incorrect when it does about to stall out. I put in neutral, step on the gas & I&#146;m fighting w/it to not stall. In-laws had this similar matter w/their current Jeep about a year ago & replaced every single possible sensor there was & it lasted about a year, they are now having the same issue as us. since they replaced all the sensors, they had no clue what part was really the culprit. Anyone have any suggestions I can pass onto mechanic for my car? Thanks.
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    Tidester, thanks for the reply, we worked on it for a few hours yesterday, changed all the relays etc. Checked power going into fuel pump, when you turn on the ignition, we have power on one of the lines and the fuel pump turns on then shuts off in 1-2 seconds power goes out, try to turn over jeep starts then stalls and then the fuel pump turns back on automatically.???? I checked the codes on the engine lite and it is 3555 which I was told and looked up that its the "idle control valve" we haven't changed that because it doesn't make sense it just seems it runs out of fuel. I can pump the gas a little and gets more rpm's but just dies when it runs out of fuel. any other thoughts could the pump be bad? Thanks Jeff
  • oldbajaoldbaja Member Posts: 2
    Read your mesage on the low rpm ans stahling. Did you have the computer flahed by the dealer? Did it fix it ?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You didn't mention whether your check engine light is coming on. If not, then you can probably rule out electronic controls.

    Way back in our archives, people describing similar symptoms thought there might be a problem with the IAC (Intake AIr Control) and valve. You can browse through that discussion here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef1b887

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rosebuddoverosebuddove Member Posts: 2
    I posted the other day regarding my 04 stalling and idling very slow/low.

    I was trying to avoid going to the garage at all costs. I had told a family friend and he layed awake trying to figure out what was wrong with my Jeep. At 1 am we got a phone call.

    I was told to remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes. I did this and my jeep is running like new. Evidently the computer had to be reset in order for the engine to run properly. I then proceeded in going on a 300 mile round trip and not once was there a hesitation, whereas the night before I was stalling at redlights.

    It may sound crazy, but it is true. I don't know if this will help you, but it worked for me.

    When I did talk to the garage, the man said he could put it on a testing machine that would be a tell all for what is exactly wrong. That was going to be my next reluctant step.

    Another possible idea is the catalytic converter. I had this happen on another car and it acted very similiar to your issue. Since you replaced so many components, there is not much left to try to do.

    I have found that the best mechanics are the young backyard mechanics who breathe life into rides that have seen better days.
  • texgkingtexgking Member Posts: 6
    An update on the stalls. I replaced the Idle Control Module at the throttle body and cleaned and reseated that module in front of the coolant module (the one with one long bolt) and took it for a test drive. Ran fine for over 15 miles, thought I had it licked. Then after parking with the engine and AC running for about 10 minutes while I returned a book it, I drive about a block and it stalls. After a few minutes go by, it starts right up, goes another block stalls. I opened the hood, took a break and let it cool awhile. After maybe 20 minutes it starts right up and I make it home 10 miles, without stalling.
    Now I order the computer, when it arrives, Woops wrong item, this new one has 3 connectors mine only has one. I get a refund then call the dealer with the numbers off this module with one bolt and they tell me that is Not the PCM. The parts person does not have a picture, just comparing part numbers. So back to the jeep.
    That module that sits right in front of the coolant tank is Not the PCM. The PCM is up against the fire wall to the rear of the coolant tank. It is attached to a large metal plate and actually sits between that and the firewall, very hard to see. But look closely with a light and you can see It has three connectors plus a ground on the back,just exactly like the one I had ordered and took a refund. With a sheepish grin I return and get that PCM, the one with 3 connectors.
    The instructions tell you to ensure all relays are within limits or it may harm the module, so I also get a new Fuel Pump Relay. I think there are three relays with the same part number as the fuel pump relay. I replaced the relay and installed the new PCM. Test drove it over 100 miles, ran file. The next day another 50 ran fine. It's been cold lately so have not tested yet with AC going and long idles, but it appears to be running fine now.
    In total I replaced the TPC (36), ICM ($56), PCM ($125)Fuel Pump Relay ($16) and the battery connections plus cleaned lots of grounds. It appears to be fixed, I hope. Thru all of this I never had an engine light go on.
  • zs711zs711 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 JGC, v8, when I try starting it just turns over. Have to wait for fuel pump to kick on,was 1-2 min. suddenly 10-15 mins.Once pump reaches pressure it will start fine and runs perfect. used to restart fine once warm but acts up every time now.Got really bad over night
  • muff22muff22 Member Posts: 2
    brake pedal pulsed found bad left wheel bearing and put new rotors sti the same thinking abs or cv or front drive shaft please help!!! :confuse: :
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Sounds like a bad Idle Air Control motor again. My suggestion is to read all of the posts in this category as it will shed some light on your issues. You may also want to look into your fuel system a bit deeper...when was your last fuel filter change, what your hot/cold fuel pressure is(have a mechanic do this), pressure test the pump, check your injectors, the works.

    When you can't start an injected engine when its cold, SOMETHING is not allowing the fuel mixture to either richen up (like when you use the choke on your lawnmower)or actually GET to the cylinders(like plugged injectors, or a blocked fuel filter). Sometimes, a wide open IAC will cause the engine to act this way. Also, if your mass air flow sensor/airspeed sensor is dirty or bad it will take time for the engine to fire up.

    Again, just my two cents.
  • ike21ike21 Member Posts: 14
    I keep posting this but none is reading past posts. You are smart to go with Idle air control sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor first since they are the easiest and cheapest to fix. If those do not work then it is 90% always the Camshaft Sensor that is making it stall. I know it sounds weird but that's how they made them 1999 and up. The 99's and up are never the fuel pump. The fuel pump is the only thing they made well on these Jeep GC's. If it keeps stalling change but the Camshaft Sensor. Harder but can be done yourself with a buddy and or small hands. lol
  • bradpansbradpans Member Posts: 3
    I finally solved the problem with stalling on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee Laredo...My mechanic replaced the ignition switch and coil...
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    Tidester, still not fixed, this is what I have done:

    Changed Fuel Pump
    Changed fuel presure regulator
    Changed idle control Valve
    Changed Computer (exact same one from Junk Yard)
    Chaned Fuel Filter

    Is there anything else you can think of on my 1993 Jeep Cherokee. Its starts, idles for a moment and I can give it gas and rpm's go up then just stalls like it's out of gas. Starts right back up then dies out again. There was something about a throttle positon sensor or something???? What is that. Thanks so much for anymore ideas. This is a straight 6cyl 4.0 Jeff
  • texgkingtexgking Member Posts: 6
    It appears to be fixed, but just in case where is the Camshaft Sensor located? I've put over 150 miles so far on it and no stalls. Hopefully it is now fixed.
    thanks for the info.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The throttle position sensor (TPS) is used as input to the electronic control unit (ECU) which adjusts things like ignition timing and fuel injection. It may be worth a look to see whether that is the problem.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    Tidester, Well changed it all to include the TPS none of that but I did fix it.

    I couldn't believe it, about 4 years ago had the same issue but thought this was for the engine to fire. It was the ballast resistor (ceramic piece) mounted to the side of the engine compartment that just has two wires going to it. What I did was just take off a bunch of parts at the junk yard. Earlier I was on Auto Zone website just going over the trouble shooting for "stalling" it did mention that like 20 possibilities down the line. I didn't think anything of it but grabbed it at the last min. Well I was all pissed off after nothing worked and tossed a wrench in my tool bag and noticed that "ballast resistor" or ceramic piece and just plugged it in. Jeep ran like a charm after that.??? Thanks for all your help...Jeff
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Thanks for letting us know. I'm glad you got it fixed. I would never have thought of that! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    Me either, thought that was just something to do with the ignition and firing. Something to think about if anyone else has this issue. 5.00 part and 1 week of trouble shooting. Actually runs better now too that I changed basically everything else., Have a good day...Jeff
  • zs711zs711 Member Posts: 2
    On start up jeep wont start, engine just turns over.wait for several minutes then hear ticking noise from" fuel pump" and "auto shut off" relays.once ticking stops, jeep will start and run just fine.would the pressure regulator cause the delay of solenoid activating ?started with just 1-2 min. delay now is 15+ min. delay for the pump to kick on.I have changed both relays.
  • sarge836sarge836 Member Posts: 12
    Could be an issue with your fuel pump, but check and see if you have a "white ceramic ballaster" mounted on the right side of the engine compartment, could be on the left, there will be two wires going to it, located on the ends of the ceramic piece. This controls voltage with the fuel system on my jeep and that is what the issue was. If you have one, just jump the two wires together to test it and if everything is fine then you will need to replace it right away. Also like you said could be the fuel pressure regulator but check the easy stuff first. Well they are both easy to change.
  • myposmypos Member Posts: 5
    make sure that you have your fuel pressure regulator installed correctly with both the large and small o rings and adjusted to the right torque.. i had the same problem and the regulator i got from auto zone was missing the smaller o ring causing the fuel pressure to drop and all the fuel drop back into the tank.
  • buddy98buddy98 Member Posts: 2
    Does this year model have a computerrized key??
  • bradsdad304bradsdad304 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 JGC that was running fine until yesterday. When I tried to start it in the morning the battery was dead so i jumped it with my other car and it started right up, buy as soon as I take my foot off the gas it dies. It will not idle at all. I don't know anything about cars and am hoping someone here will be able to help me figure this out. Oh yeah , it is a 6 cylinder 4X4
  • jeepercreepejeepercreepe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.0 six. It ran fine. I went out to start it and it turned over but would not run. Didn't even try to run. I can hear the fuel pump working at the tank. Haven't yet checked the spark. I forgot to mention in the earlier post that the guages also don't seem to be working. With the key on the needles don't move, but the indicator lights come on as normal and then go off. Because there was no warning and the guages aren't working I wonder if it is in the electronics. Anyone else have this happen?. Is this a well known happening? Suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    first i would check my fuses

    next eignition switch
  • loftlowloftlow Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 Grand Cherokee that has an intermitent issue with the engine hesitating and then reving while driving. It mostly happens after extend driving, approx 1 hr. The check engine light comes on and will stay on for a day or so then just go off. Any suggestions on what it might be.
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