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I to have a 2001 JGCL with the same problem, I know this a old post but did you ever resolve the problem?
Thanks,
Pete
One thing I have not seen mentioned is after mine stalls, you sit for maybe 1 or 2 minutes and each time you try to start it, it will crank, no start, but the fuel gage is reading below zero. The rest of the lights and gages work per normal at that point. Now after awhile when you turn the switch on, the fuel gage registers the 3/4 tank and it will always start right up!
When I first drove yesterday after all the stated repairs, it ran fine for the first 15 miles, then quit about 8 times over the next 6 miles getting home. It alway starts after the fuel gage starts registering and has never failed to start. It is those honking horns at the light that get me..ha.
Some one told me that the GC fuel gage ground was thru the ECU or PCU don't remember which, but I assume they mean the main "Brain".
Even the manual code reading of turning on the switch 3 times only gets "done" code, nothing else.
Also, not sure if this is realated but I get some beeps after the seatbelt warning etc. The last thing is two series of 3 beeps. Very distinctive beeps. Always 3beeps and short pause and 3 more. Ik can't seems to find anything about these beeps.
Anyone have a solution to either of these problems? My next step is replacing the ECU, the local parts place needs the vin, mileage,etc so they can flash it before sending it to me. Anyone had any luck changing the ECU?
Thanks for your assistance.
Hope yours is fixed.
the wires that go into it are held in with a long bolt in the middle under the first cover you see what i did was loosen the bolt and unplug and plug in cople times then reassembled it took care of prob REMBER TO UNHOOK YOU BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING
Problem: After approx 2 minutes of running, it will completely die if it is not given gas. If I am at a light/stop sign/slowing down, etc, I must keep foot on gas as I brake or it will die...no sputter, no engine light, no warning- just die. Seems to do this whether gas tank is full or low, and whether it is warm or cold outside. It was doing this intermittently, but now does it all the time.
Husband tried doing internal diagnostic check, but no luck. Anyone else w/ similar problem or ideas. We are going to buy a new car soon anyway, but I would love to pass my Jeep on to my nephew, but I want it to run for him! Thanks!
A tester said it was a P035 issue. When I checked the jeep computer, it said the same thing. My son drove the jeep and the light went out. It came back on a couple weeks later. When I called the garage, the man said the jeep's computer is not accurate and neither was the tester my son used.
Regardless, I chose not to visit the mechanic since the light went back off.
I went to leave today and I had not driven the Jeep in a week. I found my passenger door open and a light left and it barely cranked over. It sounded like a really dead battery. By a miracle it started.
The idle is very slow. It died once at a red light. I went to a parts store and saw a man in the parking lot. I told him my story. He crawled under and said there were no loose wires on my sensors.
I feel like this is my fault because I did not go to the garage when the light went on, but I could not see paying him to tell me what was wrong when the Jeep was telling me what was wrong. I just wanted the sensor replaced. He wanted to do a whole anaylis. I did not see it that way.
So now my beloved Jeep is running like crap. I have two long trips to make beginning in two days. My options are not looking so good.
Will it hurt to run it like this until next week? Do you think it will leave me? I am thinking it could be the converter.
I am sorry for such long details and I appreciate any advice.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Please help with any suggestions you may have. Great jeep for 346K miles
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Just a thought.
Way back in our archives, people describing similar symptoms thought there might be a problem with the IAC (Intake AIr Control) and valve. You can browse through that discussion here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef1b887
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I was trying to avoid going to the garage at all costs. I had told a family friend and he layed awake trying to figure out what was wrong with my Jeep. At 1 am we got a phone call.
I was told to remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes. I did this and my jeep is running like new. Evidently the computer had to be reset in order for the engine to run properly. I then proceeded in going on a 300 mile round trip and not once was there a hesitation, whereas the night before I was stalling at redlights.
It may sound crazy, but it is true. I don't know if this will help you, but it worked for me.
When I did talk to the garage, the man said he could put it on a testing machine that would be a tell all for what is exactly wrong. That was going to be my next reluctant step.
Another possible idea is the catalytic converter. I had this happen on another car and it acted very similiar to your issue. Since you replaced so many components, there is not much left to try to do.
I have found that the best mechanics are the young backyard mechanics who breathe life into rides that have seen better days.
Now I order the computer, when it arrives, Woops wrong item, this new one has 3 connectors mine only has one. I get a refund then call the dealer with the numbers off this module with one bolt and they tell me that is Not the PCM. The parts person does not have a picture, just comparing part numbers. So back to the jeep.
That module that sits right in front of the coolant tank is Not the PCM. The PCM is up against the fire wall to the rear of the coolant tank. It is attached to a large metal plate and actually sits between that and the firewall, very hard to see. But look closely with a light and you can see It has three connectors plus a ground on the back,just exactly like the one I had ordered and took a refund. With a sheepish grin I return and get that PCM, the one with 3 connectors.
The instructions tell you to ensure all relays are within limits or it may harm the module, so I also get a new Fuel Pump Relay. I think there are three relays with the same part number as the fuel pump relay. I replaced the relay and installed the new PCM. Test drove it over 100 miles, ran file. The next day another 50 ran fine. It's been cold lately so have not tested yet with AC going and long idles, but it appears to be running fine now.
In total I replaced the TPC (36), ICM ($56), PCM ($125)Fuel Pump Relay ($16) and the battery connections plus cleaned lots of grounds. It appears to be fixed, I hope. Thru all of this I never had an engine light go on.
When you can't start an injected engine when its cold, SOMETHING is not allowing the fuel mixture to either richen up (like when you use the choke on your lawnmower)or actually GET to the cylinders(like plugged injectors, or a blocked fuel filter). Sometimes, a wide open IAC will cause the engine to act this way. Also, if your mass air flow sensor/airspeed sensor is dirty or bad it will take time for the engine to fire up.
Again, just my two cents.
Changed Fuel Pump
Changed fuel presure regulator
Changed idle control Valve
Changed Computer (exact same one from Junk Yard)
Chaned Fuel Filter
Is there anything else you can think of on my 1993 Jeep Cherokee. Its starts, idles for a moment and I can give it gas and rpm's go up then just stalls like it's out of gas. Starts right back up then dies out again. There was something about a throttle positon sensor or something???? What is that. Thanks so much for anymore ideas. This is a straight 6cyl 4.0 Jeff
thanks for the info.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I couldn't believe it, about 4 years ago had the same issue but thought this was for the engine to fire. It was the ballast resistor (ceramic piece) mounted to the side of the engine compartment that just has two wires going to it. What I did was just take off a bunch of parts at the junk yard. Earlier I was on Auto Zone website just going over the trouble shooting for "stalling" it did mention that like 20 possibilities down the line. I didn't think anything of it but grabbed it at the last min. Well I was all pissed off after nothing worked and tossed a wrench in my tool bag and noticed that "ballast resistor" or ceramic piece and just plugged it in. Jeep ran like a charm after that.??? Thanks for all your help...Jeff
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
next eignition switch