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the DTC library shows the follows: P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2/Target idle not reached. It means communication between CPU and one of the injector is faulty, or the injector is faulty itself. Have it checked or replaced.
About late fall last year, my '98 JGC 5.2 seemed to get a hiccup while driving. Then after running around during the day and after 3 or 4 stops at different locations, it would not start. It took about an additional 30 to 45 min to start. (Some times it would start, and with the pedal all the way to the floor, I could not get it over 3000 RPM's, and it would just spit and sputter, and then die) any where from thirty minutes to an hour it would start up and run "ok".
I replaced every thing I could think of. O2, coil, wires cap rotor, plugs, idle air control valve, coolant temp sensor, map sensor, .... and a few other things I don't remember.
I was avoiding what I knew was inevitable.
THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. ... duh duh duhhhhhhhhhhh...
I broke down and took it to my mechanic, told him every thing I did, the advice I paid for online, what this and a few other forums were doing and saying, and he agreed with all and by the looks on his face :sick: it was "most likely the CPS". That cost me $100 plus to find that out, plus it would be another $250 to replace it.
SOOOOOO
I said thank you, I will call to schedule it later.
I found during the winter months in Upstate NY it was cold enough that the problem was not so bad. I lived with it until TODAY!
Now for the fix....
It is true it is not easy to get to.... however once I found it and found the right tool to remove it, it was not all that bad and well worth the $175 I saved doing it my self.
So first off I found that the little black and white pics in the repair manual to be confusing. The pics I am making a link to are not mine but I found to be very instrumental in this task. The availability to view them is based on how long the actual owners leave them on the web.
#1 the picture found online and in the repair/technical manuals.
This was actually confusing for me for the longest time. If you don't read these manuals on a daily basis, you too will most likely be confused too.
item 1 is the rubber grommet that inserts into the "U" shaped hole in the bell housing of the transmission. Note at the top of the "U" shaped hole where it is flat, this is where the engine block and the transmission bell housing meet.
item 2 is a pic of one of the two bolts that hold the sensor in place. Note in the pic that there is an opening in the top of this bolt. It wasn't until the day of this post and only after watching a video on you tube about changing out the sensors, that that opening is for a standard 1/4" Alan Key wrench. THIS IS VERY KEY, no pun intended.
item 3 is the bracket with the holes that line up with the holes in the engine block. The picture depicts a much thicker bracket, I will address this later.
items 4 & 5 are the Exhaust Manifold and pipe and all so the transmission bell housing respectively.
#2
This image I found on the web. It is a picture of the back of the engine with the transmission removed. You can see the flywheel and the sensor. the sensor is circled in red, and even though everything seems to be the same color. That large round disc looking thing is the flywheel. It is almost, but not, touching the sensor circled in red. The sensor detects the teeth on the flywheel.
#3
These last two pictures show you the sensor mounted and bolted in place. Please note that the rubber grommet is missing in the last image, and that the bolts do not let you use a socket or wrench like tool on this particular sensor.
My bolts where like the first image as I mentioned.
Now this is why I was confused on the first image from the manuals this whole time. The sensor is inserted into the bell housing. The first image if you are not a mechanic would look at that picture and maybe think that the sensor is laying flat on the block and on top, not inserted, through the hole into the bell housing.
#4
Now that you have a better visual for what you are feeling for, you should be able to locate the sensor by touch.
First follow the instructions in your shop manual to remove the possible items in your way.
I pulled all the spark plug wires and the ignition wire, on the passenger side of the engine. I removed the heat shield from around the manifold. ( this was not fun either and I had to rip it out, I will have to buy another one soon. And I moved or disconnected any thing that I could, that might be in the way. I did not remove the distributor cap.
You need to make a tool to make your life easier.
1 a ratchet
2 1/4 inch socket
3 1/4 inch Alan key
4 a short extension for your ratchet and socket.
They may make a tool like this but my jeep was up on jacks and plugs pulled,
Cut the Alan key just under the 90 degree bend.
Insert the longer straight piece of the Alan key into the socket. Insert the cut end into the socket.
(NOTE to keep the Alan key from falling out while trying to use it, I found a small piece of cotton string to use while inserting the Alan key into the socket. This mad e the Alan key fit nice and tight so that it does not fall out.)
This made my life so much easier to take the bolts out and to put them in.
I held the tool, minus the ratchet in one hand, so that my finger was touching the tip of the Alan Key. I felt for the top of the first bolt, and wiggled the Alan Key into place, into the hole in the top of the bolt. I then put the ratchet on and was able to remove the bolts with out a problem.
After the bolts are out, pull out the sensor, make sure to leave the rubber grommet in place, and wiggle the sensor up and out. The end of the pig tail is actually under the Jeep. There are wire zip ties, and a connection. Mine connected above the transmission. You will have to pull the sensor from below, and follow the wire to the end.
When I reinstall the new sensor I first fed the pig tail wires, down first, and then found the hole with the rubber grommet on it, and inserted the sensor, I had to use two hand to get the sensor down, but the holes lined up perfectly, and the bolts went back into place with out any problems. The bolts fit tight on the Alan Key so I didn't drop one.
Now you crawl under the Jeep and finish pulling down the pig tail, and reconnect the sensor.
put every thing back the wires, and any thing else you move.
Enjoy
It is not as bad as it sounds.
OH just a SIDE NOTE I am a large person, just under 300#, I have large hands, and not skinny at all. If I can get to it any one can. :shades:
Next guess are the fuel injectors.
I will re post after that. Just doesn't make any sense to me, open to suggestions.
:confuse:
But if you do suspect your crank position sensor please read my post before this one. It is not as difficult as it sounds.
they are in the middle under the wire plugs......one is in view the other is behind the reservoir some.
i tried loosening then a turn[like he did] and......
IT TOTALLY SOLVED THE PROBLEM!!!!!!
also solved the slow battery drain key off problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have two other problems: i have to crank the car twice for it to start. the first time it almost turns over, then i turn it off, i hear a little click down my the fuses and relays, then i crank it back on an it starts great. i have already replaced the starter, gave it a full tue-up, replaced the crank sensor and put some 'stuff' in the gas for the fuel injectors, it still takes twice to start.
also, when my lights are on and i put the wipers on the dash lights go out, turn off the wipers and the dash light go back on. what's up with that?
does anyone have any ideas? i love this jeep and i want to fix it.
thanks,
larry
The question I have is about the way it has been starting. It doesn't always start first time around, but always starts the second time I try. Like its priming the engine or something (thats the vibe I get, I am very limited in mechanical knowledge).
The delay/restart doesn't bother me...but today, I was letting my son drive it for the first time, and he pressed on the brake when beginning to start the Jeep & the battery died.
Of course, he pressed the brake all the way to the floor! LOL... So, one of my questions is: do JGCs have some sort of safety mechanism that cuts the battery off when the brake is depressed all the way or something...or could this be an electrical issue.
There was also a noise that accompanied this issue... it was a soft buzz, only when he let his foot OFF the brake, so he kept it depressed as to not make the noise... but I switched spots with him & I let the brake off & just let the noise happen... and it only went on for a minute or so, then I went through the process of starting it & it started just fine.
It does have high miles (over 200,00), but I just got an oil change & a new battery put in it a few days ago... so cannot figure out why it died like that.
And it did die, the radio was reset to 12:00...so I am guessing it killed the power totally.
Any info on this type of issue is appreciated!
Thank you for your time!
Sara
Hope this helps.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
B
I have an 07 SRT8 and I suspect dodgy solder joints inside cos having same problem as you and when you tap - just tap - the connector to the PCM, it dies.
Bent all the tabs back an tried to open the cover but won't budge. Suspect some kind of glue or sealant used.
Need help.
Thanks
EDIT:
There IS one other thing to Check! YOUR EXHAUST!!! If it has leaks and is literally drawing air in, and too much O2 reaches the downstream O2 sensor (after the catalytic converter), this type of situation can be triggered....
I have and '02 JGC 4.0. It runs well, have had a myriad of electrical problems, most somewhat easily fixable. Now I am having an issue with it starting. Knock on wood, it has never NOT started, but it sure sounds like it isn't going to pretty often. It honestly sounds like a weak battery or starter to me, but I had my mechanic take a look at the starter and he metered it and said it is drawing exactly what it should for amperage. My alternator is putting out 14.2 volts when running, which is right around where it should be. My battery is a year old, and have had it tested 3 times and all tests come back good.
I am at a loss as to what could be causing her to sound soooo labored :sick: when it is turning over. Anyone out there have the same issue, or have any suggestions as to where I should start? Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks,
G
Best of luck!
I usually let go of the gaspedal for a few seconds and then I can drive again, but this only resolves the problem for a little bit and eventually I need to give my car a rest for about 20 to 30 minutes and then it is fine again.
I asked a few mechanics and even in a Jeep garage, nobody had ever heard of this problem. So I really hope somebody can give me an idea what the problem is and how to fix it?
Thank you soooo much!!!
I would recommend to check up the heated wire sensor in the air intake. The wire sensor is very often dirty by the air deposits - grease dust etc. It makes a signal distortion and possible control problems.
The cleaning is very simple, only be careful not to damage the wire.
by my experience it runs as follows:
- the bank 2 O2 upstream sensor is bad - trouble codes P0158 - P0174. It costs a few bucks only
- the unevitable misfires follow - P0300
- after that goes too much unburned fuel to the charcoal cannister, that cannot to process it - code P0442.
Have the upstream O2 sensor checked and replaced, then deleted the DTCs.
I hope it helps
thanks again for the help
I may only have been wrong in one thing: the EVAP cannister absorbes fuel vapours from the tank primarily. But is connected to the PCV valve, there could be a little bit unburned fuel which makes problem for the emission control system.
I think faulty O2 sensor is essential.
About a year ago, my 97 GC started with the stalling problem. I have replaced everything that everyone talks about ...It is a complete shutdown of ignition....Code readers say that it is the ignition coil, or ignition coil signal. It is also very random....and not necessarily heat related. Sometimes, the vehicle won't start after sitting all night....sometimes it will stall when backing out of the driveway....sometimes after 10 minutes of driving....sometimes not at all for a trip to the store, but then stall several times coming home from the store. One thing is for sure .it gets worse and worse as time goes on.
Sometimes, it helps to disconnect the battery....sometimes, it doesn't. There are times when it refuses to restart, and then unplugging and replugging various sensors helps. Sometimes, it helps to reseat the PCM connectors....and then sometimes it doesn't.
Well....I've been through all the replacement stuff...I've traversed the awful sensation of the car stopping suddenly while I'm in the center lane during rush hour....I've experienced the horror of stalling in the middle of an intersection, and the frustration of not getting to work on time.
Oh baby...I know this problem...and I am a long-time veteran of electronic circuitry. I am a component-level troubleshooter, and I was not about to allow this problem to win the day.
Unfortunately...this problem is allusive in it's randomness....and also by the pesky disappearance when you replace a sensor....then it rears its ugly head a few days later. So......after $500-$1000 worth of component changing...you are left with the same problem and a box of used parts that probably were never bad to begin with.
So....On to the solution. Now, one person on another forum suggests shortening the length of the PCM cover screws a bit. I’m not convinced that this does anything but it seemed to work for him.
Nevertheless....I was willing to shorten up those screws, simply because it doesn't hurt to give it a try. There's no doubt that the problem rests in the PCM Connector configuration. Whether it is dirt, corrosion, or poor intimate contact....the problem is there.
I've noted that several people claim success using zip ties on the connectors, and while this may work, I am uncomfortable with the use of zip ties because they put stress on connectors in weird directions....the problem may return over time.
I was convinced that the solution rests in ensuring a zero-vibration environment at the connector. But the connectors needed to be seated firmly and perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the PCM.
The screws? well, they might play a part in all this, but I could see nothing down in the screw holes that would suggest a short circuit with a circuit board component....it is just an empty hole. The screws could be corroded, and not making good contact...but if you remove the screws completely, the symptoms don't change. Sooo I'm skeptical.
So, I ran into a forum post elsewhere that describes this same problem, and the creation of a connector bracket. This sounded perfect. So I made one. It cost me $6.43 for the materials...it took 15 minutes to make the bracket....and 45 minutes to install.....and my stalling problem is gone.
Very simple. Go to Home Depot....buy the following junk:
1 - 36" Steel Bar 1" wide X 1/8" thick
2 Bolts 4" long X 1/4
2 Wingnuts (1/4")">
From the steel bar, using a hacksaw, cut off 2 lengths of bar 9" long each.
Drill holes large enough for the bolts on both ends of the bars
One bar goes behind the PCM
One bar goes on top of the connectors
Use the wingnuts to tighten the connectors firmly into place.
Details:
Remove your battery cables and short them together (use a wrench or screwdriver)
Remove the coolant overflow tank hose...set aside (1 minute)
Remove three coolant overflow tank mounting screws (5 minutes)
Remove coolant overflow tank (1 minute)
Remove PCM Connectors from PCM (1 minute)
Remove 3 PCM Mounting bolts (5 minutes)
Remove PCM (30 seconds)
Remove screws from front plate of PCM and grind them shorter or replace them with shorter screws (just in case)(5 minutes)
Place one bar on backside of PCM...Place other bar on front...then wingnut them in place from the front(this is just to get the bracket in place because you can't put the bolts on while the PCM is still mounted on the firewall) (2 minutes)
Now Mount the PCM back onto the firewall (5 minutes)
Loosen the wingnuts out to the end of the bolts....Install the connectors....tighten down the wingnuts with great zeal, but not so much as to distort the bar very much. (there will be some bow in the bar...but don't sweat it)(5 minutes)
Now reinstall your Overflow coolant tank (5 minutes)
Reconnect your battery (2 minutes)
Start Car and Drive away.
Ooops..wait
Stop Car..get out....close hood...Now drive away
+2 down and it did run briefly, i than pulled the fuel filter/regulator above the rear differential and pulled one of the lines going to the tank and cycled the ignition to see if any fuel exited the line (none). i am thinking fuel pump but i do hear what sounds like the pump starting when the key is turned. does anyone know if the pump can be running if it is bad and is there anything else that will stop fuel pressure to the engine?
Bill
You can easily test the fuel pressure - after unscrewing the cap you press the center of the valve by fingernail or tool. If fuel sprinks, there is pressure and the pump is O.K. You can also connect a pressure tester to check the pressure more exactly. If no fuel is sprinking (or very weakly), the pump is not O.K., even if you can hear a pumping sound.
Sometimes when I come to a complete stop (usually right after I start the car), the trottle is not responding and the engine sounds like there is no ignition. Sometimes just giving veeery little throttle gets the car going. Once the car is running again there is no problem anymore. When it does stall, putting the transmission in N, the engine will respond normal to throttle input and putting the transmission in D while the RPM is little higher than idle (600RPM) the stalling goes away. The engine has never died nor does it happen when the car is coasting.
I read somewher that it could be the Flywheel sensor.
Just yesterday I had all spark plugs changed, no change.
Any thoughts?
thanks for the help
In any case, this is pretty ridiculous that this is so common an issue without a word from Chrysler. I'm amazed that no one has died yet as their Jeep stalls out in the middle of the highway or going up some muddy hill.
I'll share whatever miracle fix I manage to come up with, if that ever happens.
good luck
I've checked and secured all the grounds, built the metal bracket to hold and support the plug banks even though wiggling them made no difference, and now replaced the two known problem sensors with no luck. I guess I'm really at the point where I have to swap the PCM or break it open and see what's inside I might be able to clean up or repair.
I'm really surprised that there's so much activity and folk remedies for this issue, but apparently no word from Chrysler over the years.
fuel pump is in gas tank