Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

1356710

Comments

  • joejetjoejet Member Posts: 6
  • joejetjoejet Member Posts: 6
    Dusty,

    Thank you for your reply. The engine I have is the 6 cyclinder. I installed a flush kit and that fixed the problem. I talked to a person at a local auto parts store and he said I need to remove the radiator cap and let the engine run. This lets any air bubbles out.

    Thanks again,

    Joe
  • junkman3junkman3 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1992 dodge dakota 4x4 with the v8 it will not run properly sometimes it will start right up and idles great but when i drive a little it dies then when i try to start it back up it doesnt always die though sometimes it does but it just wont take any gas it has also done this while driving ill be riding along at about 25 mph then it just stops accepting gas im pushing the pedal to the floor but she will not respond i have to coast over and manually turn it off and restart it a few times till it will accept the gas again i obtained this truck as is so i do not know what led up to the problems someone please know th3e answer to this cause i can not afford a diagnostic
  • muntstermuntster Member Posts: 4
    my dakota loses power to the coil when i give it gas.. i have replaced the fuel pump, coil, cam plate under the distributor cap and the oil pressur sending unit.. my truck will idle all day long, i can wiggle wires, vacumn hoses and what ever, and it will stay running, but as soon as i idle up the engine, it dies.... i have a tester on the coil, and it loses fire to it... after i try starting it a few times, sometimes more, it will start back up, but can only idle.. im running out of ideas and money....Engine is a 6 cyl, 3.9 PLEASE HELP !!! Mike
  • muntstermuntster Member Posts: 4
    today i changed the crank position sensor 2/25/07 -------it still wont run with the motor at high R.P.M.s.... i was told if the check engine light isnt on, then it wont show a code....
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Hi guys, its been awhile, i have had a lot going on. Anyways, I have a 01 QC 4.7 auto 4x4 with 77k miles. I was going to change spark plugs again with the stock champions but was wondering if any great successes with a longer lasting platinum type????
    Also, I was going to change my trany fluid. Done this before on other trucks, but I understand my auto trans has a spin on filter inside. Any special tools needed or tricks to know?? Any help and comments appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Tom.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A lot of folks are running Bosch Platinum +4 (#4418)in the 4.7L semi-hemi engine.

    As for your xmission - I special-ordered he manual xmission myself. I do know that if you do not use the proper ATF+4 (synthetic) fluid in the automatic, you would be asking for troubles.
  • tinyhawk44tinyhawk44 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 dodge dakota quad 4.7 im putting new universal o2 sensors in and the wires dont match the old wires are blue, white and 2 blacks new wires are black, grey and 2 whites the sensor is a sng # sn4-102 what do i do?
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    the best plugs to run beleive it or not are the cheapest,they are also a cooler running plug. Auto Lite 3923, you can pick them up at wal-mart for 10 bucks for all 8. Plugs with plat. tips will detonate and cause problems.
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    if the connector will plug in then you should be good to go if not you might want to return it because itis probably the wrong one.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    In this model year there are a number of things that could cause this problem. I have seen aftermarket tune up parts, such as distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires cause similar problems. Bad or worn spark plugs can also be a cause. I would recommend using only Mopar ignition and tune-up parts.

    A bad PCV valve can also cause this, especially in the winter time when there's higher levels of moisture in the crankcase. The water freezes the PCV plunger as vacuum pulls air through the crankcase, causes reduced air flow (essentially closing the throttle) and stalls the engine. Clogged or partially clogged PCV valve hoses can do the same thing.

    More serious things could be a bad crankshaft position sensor, a bad intake manifold gasket, or a defective catalytic converter, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump.

    I'd start with the ignition components and closely inspect things. A vehicle that old is bound to have cracked rubber vacuum hoses. Check them all.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • junkman3junkman3 Member Posts: 2
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Did you seem to take a dip in gas mileage suddenly?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I, too, have used the Bosch Platinum+4s my 4.7. They've given me no problems, but I've changed them out at 45,000.

    If you have the 4.7 engine the automatic transmission is the 545RFE. This transmission uses two (2) filters. The primary filter is attached by a screw typical of older Mopar transmissions. Be careful of seal when installing the new filter. The second, oil cooler return filter is installed using a small oil filter wrench.

    CAUTION: Only use Mopar ATF+4 (MS-9602)automatic transmission fluid, Chrysler part number 5013457AA. Do not use ATF+3 or any other type of fluid.
    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Okay, can you be more specific about the loss of spark as the engine RPM is raised? Have you checked the polarity of the coil?

    Just because the check engine lamp is not illuminated, doesn't mean that there is no code stored.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • muntstermuntster Member Posts: 4
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Hi Dusty, Yes I am aware of the ATF+4 and have used that before for top off. So am I to understand that I wiil see a flat type of screen filter with a tube for one filter (what i'm used to) and also a second motor oil type screw on filter as well. I do not have an optional trans cooler.

    thanks,
    Tom.
  • muntstermuntster Member Posts: 4
    i found the problem with my 94 dodge dakota (finally) it was the wire going to the transmission, it got a bare spot in it some how, and when i gave the motor some gas, it must of caused it to ground out and send the computer a message to shut down for awhile... thanks for any help.. muntster
  • crowe5crowe5 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1997 2wd dakota 5 speed with a 2.5 4 cylinder engine. th eidle out of nowhere, is high , extreme loss of fuel mileage, and a check engine light on saying misfire cylinder 1, and all the cylinders have good compression, clear that code, and the next code is somthing about high idle.. can anyone help..
  • bthevbthev Member Posts: 2
    Dusty,
    Yes the gas mileage suddenly dipped. It was right after I had an oil change to a high mileage oil and a belt replacement to bypass the failing compressor for the A/C.
    Thanks for the reply.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I use to see this problem occasionally on 2.2 and 2.5 engines back in the eighties.

    If this is a Bosch system, see if the throttle linkage is against the throttle stop on the base of the throttle body. If it's not, see if you can force the throttle closed so as the tang on the throttle linkage bracket contacts the stop.

    If you can't, shut the engine off and remove the Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor from the throttlebody. Sometimes the motor becomes stuck when these have been in service for a while. Note that upon reassembly the arm must be in the correct position. If the throttle plate can close all the way with the motor removed, that is your problem.

    If the AIS motor is okay, check for a vacuum leak. This could be a cracked vacuum hose, like a PCV or power brake vacuum hose. You could have a bad throttlebody base gasket, but I've never seen or even heard of one failing on a Mopar.

    The #1 misfire bothers me a little. I've seen this caused by bad spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, or rotor. This is a common problem with aftermarket ignition replacement parts after a short time in service.

    An irratic spark occurrence can cause the Powertrain Control Modules (PCM) to sense a misfire and cause some crazy behavior. I once worked on a Plymouth Acclaim that experienced wild and irratic transmission shifts after the vehicle had been operated for a while. As it turned out, poor quality plug wires were causing the PCM to receive hundreds of faults then the PCM lost control of the transmission. New plug wires solved this.

    I worked on a Dynasty that had an irratic high idle and after a regular tune up with Mopar replacement ignition components the problem went away.

    But for now I'd bet on the AIS motor being the issue.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • sknausssknauss Member Posts: 1
    I just cut of the converter on my truck hoping that would be the problem. my fear is that it's the gas pump. i was driving home from work and it just stoppd going. i had the pedal to the floor and i could only go 15 mph. after sputtering it died. i then got it going again, but had the same problems it died 5 times before i got it home. it almost sounded like a snowmobile running. also there's a high pitch noise coming from my driverside rear tire. :sick:
  • parchparch Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if there is a diagnostic connection for an 89 Dakota? If so, where is it located? Or can I retrive codes with the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON method? Vehicle starts fine, but after it warms up it dies and will restart after I let it set for a few minutes. I have replaced fuel pump (2X), I have installed a fuel pressure gauge in-line to the TBI and is steady at 20psi but after it stalls, it drops to 15psi and will return to 20psi when it restarts. I have checked for spark and spark is present when truck stalls. Also, I used a can of carb cleaner around all vacuum lines while truck was idling to see if there were any RPM changes for a possible leak. Needless to say, there were none. I'm leaning towards a possible PCM issue or pick up coil. Any other suggestions? THX IN ADVANCE!
  • jlockjlock Member Posts: 4
  • jlockjlock Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota 4.7. I took it to the shop and they placed a 2006 4.7 engine in it. The engine runs fine when it's cold but It sounds like it's miss firing when it heats up, also the check engine light flashes until it heats up then remains steady.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    THe engine-swap must have been incomplete or incorrect. A FLASHING CEL is considerd a very serious problem which needs immedeate attention.

    You should try pulling the codes to find out what is causing the CEL. (easy to do with ignition-switch trick... search the forum archives)
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    The PCM programming may be incompatible between the 2003 and 2006 engines. Did they reprogram the PCM?
  • rstrongrstrong Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Dakota has what seems to be forward and backward play in the steering column. It is most noticeable when either coming to a stop or accelerating from a stop. You can feel it in the steering wheel it is like something is loose and shifting forward and backward.
  • jlockjlock Member Posts: 4
    I don't think they did, I took it back they made some changes and the truck will run fine for a few days and then it starts running erratic again. It begins when I crank it'll turn over a few times before firing up, and then the oil pressure goes up slowly. Like I said it runs great cold. I thought maybe the computer wasn't compatible betwenn the years.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    As far as I can tell, there are no major differences between a 2003 and a 2006 4.7 motor. The 2006 will have black carbon fiber valve covers, very slightly different camshaft specifications, and a re-routed PCV valve vacuum line. If you kept the same exhaust system and the same PCM, you shouldn't have any problems.

    My first suspicion is something got hooked up wrong. Look at the PCV valve again. It's not in the same place as the 2000-2004s.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ja812ja812 Member Posts: 33
    I recently had a front seal leak that was repaired by the dealer but I found out when checking my oil that is was a quart over. My extended warranty covered most the cost and the dealer covered the rest after I told them about the oil which they changed. Will having too much oil cause this problem and should I be concerned about other problems???

    Thanks
    2001 4x4 qc 4.7
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    My 2000 Dakota with the 4.7L semi-hemi V8 was showing "high" on the dipstick when I took delivery from the factory. (stone-cold engine) This is because of the hollow camshafts which will 'drain back' into the crankcase and can make it appear to have too much oil in it.

    However - If I check my oil about 2-3 minutes after shutting of the engine... the dipsitick shows EXACTLY where it should be. (because the hollow camshafts still retain the oil)

    The hollow camshafts also mean it is easy to overfill the engine with oil. If you do not allow at least 20 minutes for the oil to drain when changing the oil, then the camshafts are not drained. If, under these circomstances, one adds the specified 6 quarts of oil, the engine will be overfilled.

    I hope this helps explain some of your questions about oil-level in the 4.7L semi-hemi V8 engine.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Just as an aside, yes, it is not good to run with a high oil level. Most engines will tolerate a little over, some maybe as high as one quart. But most will not. If the connecting rods hit or come close to the engine oil it will produce wild turbulence in the oil pan and cause air bubbles to form in the oil. The oil bubbles will be forced through the system and cause inadequate lubrication to critical areas.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • ja812ja812 Member Posts: 33
    Thanks for the reply guys. It is helpful.

    Joe
  • fiafia6fiafia6 Member Posts: 4
    I went through and found that it means EVAP leak monitor large leak detected. I don't quite know what that means. Should I take my truck in to have someone look at it or can I fix it myself. I have a 01 dakota sport. 3.9l. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A poor seal at the gascap will cause a large EVAP leak. Most of the time, a large EVAP leak is caused by the gascap not being clicked at least 3 times. I beleive the owners manual tells you the same thing.

    Some folks have reported that their gascap had to be REPLACED because it was defective internally.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yep. There is a diaphramatic disc and spring in the fuel cap and these components corrode. The factory original caps up through late 2003 were black in color. A Chrysler replacement cap with revised materials will be gray color from the dealer.

    There are two different fuel caps used on the Dakota in that year, one will have plastic threads, the other stainless steel (ORVR System). If you buy an aftermarket part, make sure that a replacement is of the correct type.

    By the way, you can get a large evaporator leak code if the fuel tank is filled to 85% of capacity or beyond, which is overfilled in normal refueling.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • jack76jack76 Member Posts: 2
  • jack76jack76 Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 01 DODGE DAKOTA 4.7 IT STARTS WHEN I TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH AND GIVE IT GAS...BUT AS SOON AS I TAKE MY FOOT OFF OF THE GAS IT CUTS OFF....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You did not actually ask any questions. You just made a statement... but I assume you are looking for input on this situation.

    Have you consided the TPS ? (Throttle Position Sensor)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It could also be a clogged PCV valve or idle air port in the Throttle Body, or an inoperative or defective Idle Air Control Motor.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • laplantelaplante Member Posts: 1
    I brought my 98’ Dakota to the dealer because of engine problems and it turned out to be a blown piston.
    They sold me on a long block O.E.M brand new factory unit.
    2 weeks after driving it, it was back in the shop. Problem: Broken valve spring, and fuel pump.
    About a month after driving it this time, back in the shop again. Debris in the fuel rail.
    Needless to say, I started poking around the engine compartment myself and I don’t know what a new engine should look like but I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t include signs of rust, old oil pan, old valve covers and it would at least look like nuts and bolts were wrenched on.
    I questioned the dealer to the point they almost threw me out and they had this how dare I question a 5 Star rated shop about such improprieties.
    How do I prove or disprove weather or not they installed a new long block in my truck? With out costing me any more duckets!

    Any advice would be Appreciated
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The fact that there's rust on the block does not meaning anything. It could still be a new block. By the term "long block," does this imply the engine came with heads and manifolds?

    If this repair has occurred very recently (days) I would ask to see the old block. They don't usually send them out right away. It might still be there.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I beleive a "long block" is not an entire engine. The items you mention (oilpan, valvecovers) were moved from your "old" engine to the longblock.

    As you you daring to "question" a 5-star shop... I would like to think this 5-star shop has provided you with a lonar vehicle while they work on yours and will not be charging you for correcting these issues.

    Personally, I think the notion of a 5-star shop is a gimmick. Only the customers they know will give them a good rating are sent the questionaires. I used to go to a 5-star shop myself... and I never EVER received a questionaire from DamlierChrisler about my visits.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hi Bruce,

    Well, I use to know what a short block was, but I've heard the term long block before but could never get a definition for it.

    There is specific criteria for receiving the "Five Star" rating like the certification level of the technicians and their qualifications, certain tools on hand, etc. As far as the customer rating...I don't know.

    I do know that if you fill out more than one questionnaire negatively you will stop receiving them! Conversely, if you have a history of positive responses you continue to get a survey.

    In all honesty my current dealer is a peach. They've been great at accommodating me, give me a discount on parts and sometimes even the service. I have to say that other than a bad gas cap and two recalls, I've not had any other warranty work. I did complain about a slight clunk in the steering and they offered up an intermediate steering shaft and didn't charge me anything, not even labor.

    I think they want my business.

    Hey, got snow up there yet?

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • fishboyfishboy Member Posts: 1
    I'm also trying to replace the water pump on my 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9 liter. I'm having a problem that I can't get past and was hoping that maybe you could help. I can't get the nut off that holds the fan clutch assembly on. Just need to verify that it rotates counter clockwise to remove, and any tips you might have to hold the clutch and the pulley still to rotate the nut. I've spent many hours on this already, so any assistance you can provide would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The factory shop manual for the 2000 Dakota describes a "special tool" for holding the viscous-coupling fan.

    You would either need to fabricate your own homemade "special tool" -- or, the parts store that sold you the waterpump may loan-out any special tools you would need to replace the waterpump.

    The "special tool" is described as "A snap-on 36MM Fan wrench (number SP346 from snapOn or CumminsDiesel) -or- Special tool 6958 SpannerWrench with adaptor pins 8346"

    The drawing in the shopmanual shows that the special tool is inserted BEHIND the viscous drive unit and fanblades. (on the engine side of the fan)

    BTW: The shopmanual also says the threads are RIGHT HAND. "Remove the viscous fan drive assembly by turning the mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from the front"

    You may wish to get ahold of the instructions for replacing waterpump-- THere are some special precautions - like to NEVER EVERR lie the fan assembly in a horizontial position once it is removed. Doing so will cause the silicone to contaminate the bearing lubricant. (Fan bearing will fail soon after re-installation.) Another precaution is to ALWAYS use constant-tension hoseclamps. (not the kind with a screw to tighten)
  • dakota39dakota39 Member Posts: 2
  • dakota39dakota39 Member Posts: 2
    I am haveing all sort of problem with bad running in cold weather and poor gas mileage. No codes thrown. New fuel pump, new water pump, flushed injectors. Flkashed electronics. Just changed air temps sensor,. now need to find coolant sensor. on 1999 3.9 L Dakota, 2wd, 5 speed,.

    dakota39 (newbie)
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    ok here is what you need to do. get yourself a heavy duty straight screw driver and hammer. now leave the belt on and put your tip right on the top corner of the fan bolt (and yes it will spin towards the passenger side) and hit it with your hammer like a chiesal per say... it may take a couple hits but it works every time... install it just the opposite.. good luck buddy...
Sign In or Register to comment.