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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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Comments

  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    so your tring to say to if you tighten a clamp with a screw it's not going to keep constant tension.... what the hell are you smokin.... let me put one on your finger and then you tell me they don't....... i've had nothing but problems with them juck [non-permissible content removed] spring clamps////
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    "so your tring to say to if you tighten a clamp with a screw it's not going to keep constant tension"

    That is correct, the spring-tension clamps will allow for expansion/contraction as things change temparture while maintaining constant and correct tension around the hose.

    The screw-type clamps DO NOT change size as the joint expand/contract. If you apply the correct tension on the clamp when the engine is cold, This means that the hose gets TOO MUCH clamping force when things heat up and expand. This can damage (crush) the hose and lead to premature failure or leakage.

    Perhaps the reason you have problems with the springclamps is because you are not using the correct tool to deal with them. I used to have problems dealing with the springclamps myself until I started using the proper tool for the job... now it is quick and easy.
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    O no i didn't say i had problems with removing and throwing them away, cause i have both types of pliers that i got from mack about 8 years ago. i've had problems with them leaking even on new cars that i have worked on at a ford dealership. granted they are easier and quicker most of time but still a bicth to get to even with the right tool at times...
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    you might want to try your tps sensor located on the trottle body. there known for causing that sort of problem,,, your sesor should be somewhere on the intake,,, but on the 3.9 it could be on the side of the block..
  • mike_1017mike_1017 Member Posts: 13
    i have a v-6, 3.9 1995. when I reach 65mph, something starts rattleing. sounds like it comes from the front of the tranny area. i can feel a vibration in the gas pedal. not sure exactly where it is coming from. the faster i go the more it rattles. seems like something is going to fall apart. the truck was towed a couple of weeks ago because i aparently parked in a no parking zone. i never had this problem before that day. did the tow company mess something up or what?
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    My 02 QC, 4.7L has been having an intermittent P0442 code (small leak in the evaporative emissions system) for the last 4-6 weeks. I've replaced the gas cap, but that hasn't eliminated it. If I clear the code from the PCM, it will usually return in 7-10 days. Any thoughts on what to look for next?
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    look under the truck in front of the gas tank. there is a square box with hoses coming off of it. check the hoses for cracks that is usually where it is coming from..
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Member Posts: 43
    check your tran dipstick, they actully touch under the hood on some trucks and will cause a rattle.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Also, make sure you have the correct gas cap. There are two types used on the Dakota series, one has plastic threads and the other has stainless steel. They must be replaced by type.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Hello, hope all are well. I have a 01 QC, 4.7, 4x4 with 78k miles. I've developed a whirring sound from the front end while driving. I've looked and on the left(drivers) side on my front diff. is leaking. There is enough fluid in there. However, I can move the shaft (gray part that connects to the cv boot joints). Could it be my bearing and or front drive shaft???? Napa says 200 for bearing + if shaft is gone (CVjoints) they said its a reman whole shaft for 110. w/ exchange. Is it my cv joints??? Anyone else have this problem and how much should dealer charge??
    Any and all comments appreciated.

    Also, what would be involved doing it myself??. Would I need a new seal on that side of the diff?, any special tools needed??

    Thanks,
    Tom.
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    For the techy types--

    Me again, well it turns out after talking with people that it was my bearing. It was a real bear to get off as it was kindof frozen in the knucle. It was 209. for the part at napa (usa made). I needed a 32 mm socket for the axle bolt.
    Arrgghhh what a job, I'm getting too old for this stuff.
    Anyways, while working on it, I was not aware that my whole front drivetrain and driveshaft turn all the time even in 2wd. (Previously I had an s10 blazer and that did not). So at 78k miles I guess I should change my transfer case fluid. Previously I've done the trany (not bad looking0 and pumped out the fluids out of my diffs and replaced w/ mob1 gear oil. I want to drop the diff covers but never have really used formagasket. Does anyone make a gasket for those? I was lucky enough to find one for the trany. Also I am going to change my serpantine belt. Do I need to loosen anything (tensioner? or just push aside while doing the belt swap?
    Also I want to change my battery, does anyone know of a national brand that is a direct fit, or do I need to get one that is smaller and comes with adapter plates for height etc....
    thanks, and feel free to ask any questions you want.
    Tom.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Yes - the front driveshaft and axle are ALWAYS turning. That is why I put RedLine lube in both diffs, xferCase and manual xmission.

    I will NEVER have to change the fluids again AND it gave me another 2-4 MPG better due to less "churn" in the oil.

    There is no gasket for the diffs, just use an oil-sucker to remove old oil. That way, you do not have to break the seal.

    For front diff, it is easier to fill using the breather hose (end of it is near the battery with a white breather on it)

    For serp. belt, once you are CERTAIN how it is routed, just move the tensionor a bit and pull off the old belt BEWARE: RELEASE TENSION SLOWLY.

    For battery, look in yellow pages for INTERSTATE, they can supply you with ANY battery ever made. (or make it for you). Also their batterys are "fresh". (Stored dry and acid added when you buy it)

    Do not forget that a lead-acid battery starts to age as soon as the acid is put in it. If it sits in a wharehouse for 2 years before you buy it, then 2 years of its life is already gone.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Well, I finally got a couple of minutes to crawl under the truck and check the hoses. The center hose going into the evap canister had some small cracks in it. Unfortunately, the hose is different diameters at each end. So, I put some tape over it and will visit the dealer to get a replacement.

    Thanks for the help.
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Thanks Bpeebles, I previously did use a pump on the diff oils and noticed on the rear I sucked up tiny chips of metal. I have read that that is common for a small amount and just thought I'd have peace of mind if I dropped the covers. I have used Mbil 1 gear oil in them and was thinking of using the exspensive gear oil (80-145w)next (I think- its what the manual recomends for the rear end if you tow. ( I do a little). Maybe if I can find redline I'll try it.
    I use a pump on the gear oil bottles, from a mercruiser lower unit fill kit that fits qt bottles and pumps gear oil nicely into tight areas such as diffs or manual transmissions. ( I have the auto).
    Thanks for the info on the belt, I will study it, also there is a sticker that shows the routing on the radiator support. Thats nice that it can be done with no tools.
    I 've usually gotten my batterys at Sams club or walmart in the past, cheap, and they seem to turnover frequently, also they have date codes on them. But I do want a better fit for the Dak.
    Anyways, thanks for the input and I'll keep you updated if any probs.
    FYI- i have my original tires the wranglers RTS with 78km on them. I just bought new ones (same for $126 each) and hope to hold off on putting them on until Sept./Oct.. Just to let others know that I have read of poor mileage with those, I just rotate f-r, r-f approx. every 10k miles.
    thanks again,
    Tom.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Well, I went to the dealer. Should have known better. You can't just get the small piece of hose, you have to buy a complete hose harness for $26. Ended up getting a piece of 1/2" fuel line and a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer coupler. I cut the original hose in half, inserted the coupler and connected it to the evap canister with the 1/2" hose. Hopefully, that takes care of it for a while.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Well, that didn't take care of it. The CEL came back on this morning. This time a code P0455, large leak in the evap emissions system. Time to keep looking I guess.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Today my 02 QC, 4.7L, auto started hesitating under acceleration. It tends to be low RPM, moderate throttle, high load conditions. It starts hesitating and bucking. At WOT and small throttle, low load conditions it seems fine. It also seems to ping much more under moderate acceleration.

    I'm thinking either a fuel or ignition problem. I checked the resistance of the TPS. Between the center and left terminals I get about 4.7K ohms at idle and about 0.8K ohms at WOT. I noticed that as I move the throttle open, the resistance will increase slightly before decreasing. I've seen resistances as high as 5.5K ohms for short periods.

    Anybody have any thoughts on what to look for? Thanks.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Well, it wasn't the TPS. It was a bad #5 iginition coil. The secondary side was showing an open circuit. All the other coils showed about 7.3K ohms of resistance. I pulled the Bosch platinum plugs and replaced them with a copper core plug.
  • boosbetboosbet Member Posts: 2
    Good afternoon all,

    My 2000 Dakota 3.9 has me baffled! The story behind the truck is recently dropped a new motor in the truck (175,000 miles cracked head). Prior to putting the new motor in the truck it had a bad misfire at idle. After the new motor was put in same problem, No vaccuum leaks new plugs wires cap rotor, distributer IAC, fuel pump number 5 injector, belly pan gasket all within the past year. The truck misfires worse after warm up. Have access to the Snap-on Modis and Mitchell on demand but having a heck of time fixing this truck. When I run a misfire data all 6 cylinders show multiple misfires. The fuel sync is set at 0

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  • sfrensfren Member Posts: 8
  • sfrensfren Member Posts: 8
    My 2000 Dakota, V-6 just started doing something very strange. After starting, at operating temp the idle will rev up to 2000 RPM's and then drop down to just under 1000 and then back up to 2000, back down, up, down. This happens whether it is in Park, Drive, A/C on or off. Anybody have any idea what might be causing this. The 'check engine' light is not lit. Thank You
  • jrlbwjrlbw Member Posts: 1
    This truck will begin "surging" when on cruise control. The RPM will move from 1500 up to 1800 and then drop back to 1500. When driving 30 minutes or more, it does this even when the cruise is off. The Dodge dealership can't find the problem. Can anyone help me...Thanks
  • batemanbateman Member Posts: 2
  • batemanbateman Member Posts: 2
    I run out of gas @ a quarter tank and my gas light doesnt come on. I've had the tank pulled and check sending unit, but with new one it does the same thing. Should I change the cluster?
  • kookookookoo Member Posts: 1
    hi,i'm sorry if i used the wrong place to ask but i'm new &lost.
    Q:i have 89 dakota 3.9L that gives me very bad
    milage/gas.i would like to install a 1990 4.0L cherookee engine that i have do you think it is
    possible?????i know that both dakota and cherokee come in 4 cyl 2.5l engines.

    thank you
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The Jeep 4.0L engine has its heratige dating back from 1964. It is an AMC (American Motors Corperation) engine. We all know that Dodge purchased AMC and along with it came Jeep and the AMC engines.

    You can read all about it here. and here

    I am not sure if an AMC engine would easilly bolt into a Dodge engine-bay.
  • mandybmandyb Member Posts: 1
    I hope someone can help me. My husband bought me a 3.9 Auto, 6 cylinder, RWD Dakota Sport last month. It ran a dream for the first week then we went on the highway and noticed above 70 it started surging but once off the highway it was ok. Then on the journey home the surging continued and then it started stalling when we came to stop at traffic lights. Took it back to the dealer (no warranty) but dropped the level in the transmission fluid-too high. It ran a dream again. Then one week later, whilst doing the school run, the engine stalled at the first intersection. I eventually got it home and that night checked the spark plugs. They seemed fine but the gaps were too close and some too far apart. Changed the spark plugs. Yes, it ran like a dream again but for only two days. My husband took it to work on the same bit of highway- you guessed it, started surging again. On the way home it stalled at the traffic lights again. My husband is no expert but is handy, this is his first automatic truck to fix. We hope someone can help, and hoping it's something simple like a throttle sensor?
    Thanks
    Mandy
  • boosbetboosbet Member Posts: 2
  • carfarmercarfarmer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 with the v6 in it. I had and went through the same problem as you.My check engine light came on.I done a reading with my tester. It showed that the lower downstream O2 sensor was bad, on the drivers side.I replaced it with a new one. Problem solved, I thought ;-) Two days later after not putting 30 miles on the truck with a new one. The check engine light came on again!
    I said what the ?...so I checked the brain again, it said the down stream O2 sensor was bad on the passengers side...I said what???? I just put one in the drivers side, give me a break! I replaced that one also...I thought the problem was surely solved now, but it wasn't.
    The truck started misfiring again within 3 days. I ran another check on the brain, and it said the 02 down stream sensor was bad, it made me mad to say the least!
    SO I pulled it out and the new one was bent on the tip of it. To make a long story short, both the converters were bad, and needed swapping out, along with the O2 sensors.The converters were damaging the O2 sensors, even after swapping them out.
    My high dollar brain reader, did not say the converters were bad! After buying 2 O2 sensors, I found out the hard money spending way, thats what was making my truck misfire to start with!
    I even took the truck to a Dodge dealer and they said the O2 sensors were bad, not the converters, which was a lie!
    For me to cure the misfire problem. I had to swap both converters and buy 4 new O2 sensors. The whole ordeal was very exspensive, to say the least!
    You can take your truck to Advance auto,and they will run the test on your truck for free, to see if it's the O2 sensors or converters.The Dodge dealer will charge you for this service, go figure!...
    If you have the converters and O2 sensors replaced at the dealer, you can look to spend over $1,000 just for the parts,this dont count labor. The exhaust is sold as a whole unit from the manifolds to the mufflers, they won't sell just the converters by their selves! They will sell you the O2 sensors by their selves.
    I would find a private reputable muffler shop and get a price qoute for reinstalling the 2 converters and O2 sensors.It would be a lot less than the Dodge dealers!
    I checked around and had the work done for $450.00 at a local muffler shop.(This price don't count what I had done spent on the other 2 sensors:-)
    I learned the hard way what the problem was to start with:-) Hope you don't!
    Hope this has helped out, and you can get your truck fixed.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    An intermittent Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) can cause a stalling problem, but I personally have not encounter one that caused surging. However, I think the TPS could be causing all of your issues.

    I would suggest checking the following items as well:

    Air Filter for excessive dirt, air filter housing for obstructions (leaves, etc.)

    PCV valve

    Rubber vacuum hoses for cracks and subsequent embrittlement

    Defective O2 sensor(s)

    Defective catalytic converter

    This vehicle could also have dirty or defective fuel injectors, a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump. Could also have a bad Powertrain Control Module.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bstupakbstupak Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Dakota, 3.9L V6 4x4 SLT (73,000 miles). I recently had the catalytic converter replaced on the truck (under warranty) by the dealer. After I got the truck back I noticed that it has a buzzing sound while accelerating that was not there before the repair. It almost sounds like an old VW Beetle. I should also note that shortly after I got the truck back from the dealer, the "check engine" light came on and gave me codes P0132 and P0135. I had the dealer confirm the codes (at a cost of $90.00) and replaced both the upstream and downstream (before and after the cat) O2 sensors. Does anyone have any idea what might be making this sound and is it harmful to the truck? I'm hesitant to take the truck back to the dealer again and get charged another $90.00. Any info would be helpful.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My first suspicion is an exhaust leak.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • budgurl07budgurl07 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota limited edition V-6 2WD.
    I am having what seems to be a possible motor issue.
    I took it into the Dodge dealer and they recovered 2
    stored codes. No check engine light was on. The one code was a bad o2 sensor. The other code said "fuel system lean". They replaced the o2 sensor thinking that would take care of it. It did not. When my truck is started it idels high, low, high, low etc. When my truck goes under 10mph it idels rough and when I come to a stop it sometimes stalls. I have noticed that when I am on the highway, it has a hesitation but recovers. It has not stalled on the highway. My check engine light is not on and there are no active codes stored. My transmission seemed to be starting in 2nd. but was not constant. Only when the truck has been running for a while. Since the O2 sensor was replaced, I have not really noticed the transmission issue but I took it to a transmission place and they did diagnostics and said that there are no "codes" for the transmission. That made me think that maybe my calipers are sticking or has something to do with my brakes. My brake pads are new, I need to replace the rotors soon though. Anyone have any idea what I can do to fix this? Every time I take it to the dealer, it seems they have no clue because there is no check engine light on or no codes. Also when they test drive it, it runs normal for them.....go figure. I don't want to replace parts that don't need to be replaced if they are not bad....Any help or ideas would be appreciated.....Thanks! Angi
  • tctwtctw Member Posts: 2
    Hey Guys,

    I've got a 3.9 engine with 170K. Recently the engine has developed a rattle and it does not seem to be consistent with the rev of the engine but it sounds very much like it is coming from the engine. I noticed that the engine is running a little rougher at start up and the idle is not as smooth. Over all there is not a lot of difference in the way it is running. Still has plenty of power and is not running hot or doing anything else out of the ordinary.

    Is there anything that comes to mind I may need to be concerned about at this mileage? I know engines develop history and even if they are well maintained they can start showing their weaknesses at high mileage. Could this be a timing chain with a worn out tensioner?

    Any ideas would be appreciated!

    Thanks, Tim
    twalter@insightbb.com
  • budgurl07budgurl07 Member Posts: 2
  • rob92rob92 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my 2001 Dakota V6 5 speed. Power loss, poor fuel mileage and trouble codes P0201, P0205, P0206, P0171, P0131. Check engine light is on. The first 3 codes report "Injector Circuit Open" for Cyls 1, 5 and 6. P0171 = Bank One too lean, and P0131 O2 sensor Low Volt Bank 1 Sensor 1. I suspect a faulty upstream O2 sensor for bank 1, but why the P0206? It's in bank 2. Any ideas? What is your mileage, and do you have a rich Condition? (Black smoke and soot at the tailpipe)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It use to be commonly stated that 3.9s had weak timing chains and I've seen a number of them accused of a myriad of performance problems, and later changed out. I have yet to see one changed that caused the problem it was accused of!

    My son was convinced that his '91 3.9 had a bad timing chain because everyone driving a Chevy or a Ford told him it was bad. At 210,000 miles he tore it apart. He asked me to look at it and, yes, there was slack. However, there were no signs it was hitting the timing chain cover.

    Convinced that so many people could not be wrong, he changed the timing chain. It did not solve his performance problem. (It turned out to be a combination of bad plug wires, distributor cap, and some cracked vacuum hoses.

    That being said, at high mileage I can understand why timing chains are usually first suspected for a noise condition. I would recommend using a stethoscope to listen for the noise generating area of the motor before you tear into the engine. It could be a worn chain or gears.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • tctwtctw Member Posts: 2
  • roadtravellerroadtraveller Member Posts: 3
    Help! I have a 91 Dodge Dakota Club Cab 4x4 w/ the 3.9 V-6 & automatic transmission. When I put it in park the engine revs to 2000 RPMs. I used to be able to get it to idle by tapping the gas a little. Now it just revs higher & higher. Shop checked it and can't figure out why. Local Dodge dealer doesn't work on "old" vehicles like this (they said this with a sneer). Need help from someone who knows older Dodge trucks. My shop guys are willing to listen to any help I can find - they're not super familiar with this vehicle, but they're honest and the best thing I have to work with right now. My truck has over 200,000 miles, so I guess I'm at a point where I have to decide to fix or get rid of it. I'd rather fix it, but I can't just keep pouring money in either. The shop guys disconnected something so it idles really low (almost won't when cold outside), cause I've gotta get to work somehow. They're searching for answers to - trying to find a mechanic that used to work at the Dodge dealer back when they still fixed these trucks. Anyone have ideas?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    On a vehicle that old the first thing to check for is a vacuum leak. Rubber vacuum hoses get brittle and cracked after a while. You could have a bad throttle body base gasket. This can cause a high idle condition.

    On that vintage your Idle Speed Motor could be binding and not returning back to the correct idle position. This was an occasional problem in those years. If you disconnect the Idle Speed Motor and the idle goes to rest, you could have a bad Coolant Temperature Sensor, a Fuel Temperature Sensor, or a faulty computer.

    Make sure that the cables going to the throttle lever on the throttle body are not binding or sticking.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • roadtravellerroadtraveller Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help, Dusty. Before posting, I read some of the others questions. I wondered about vacuum hoses, especially since I've had to replace some coolant hoses with leaks already. If I have a bad throttle body gasket, would anything be leaking besides air? I'm not totally ignorant with vehicles, but I don't know very much either. I was looking at the engine yesterday, and I see that the shop disconnected what looks like a big (about 2"), maybe insulated?, air hose, which looks kind of beat up, to the throttle (I think that's what it's leading to). Does that have to do with the Idle Speed Motor? I'm guessing it does. I believe they also disconnected the Idle Speed Motor, if that is a separate action. It idles very low now, almost stalling when cold, but OK when the engine is warm. I know that my shop guys checked the cables, because that was their first thought, as we've had unrelated work done. This vehicle is my only transportation, and I don't have tons of money (obvious, since I drive a truck built when I was just starting high school!) My husband is away, and I'm really struggling here. Any additional help is very much appreciated. Any questions to help refine the issue, I'll answer, if I can, and find out if I don't know.

    Thanks again,
    Faith.
  • roadtravellerroadtraveller Member Posts: 3
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If the Throttle Body gasket was leaking the engine would draw air through the opening, causing the engine to idle or run at higher RPM. I've seen this failure many times on Chevies and GMCs, but never on a Dodge. Still, there could be a first time.

    I'm not sure what hose you could be refering to, but nothing should be disconnected!

    If the connector has been disconnected from the Idle Speed Motor, then I suspect this is what's causing your problem, since you indicate that the high idle problem has not returned. As previously noted, the motors in that vintage sometimes had a tendency to bind and not allow a return to normal idle. Unfortunately, I have seen one that was caused by the computer sending a constant signal to the motor.

    Right now the throttle stop located on the front of the throttle body and contacts the linkage at rest is acting as the idle position. The Idle Speed Motor needs to be working correctly in order for the engine to operate properly.

    I think on '91 throttle bodies the stop was adjustable, but it is not recommended if you ever repair the idle speed motor issue.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • DodgeTruckDodgeTruck Member Posts: 2
    i had a similar problem with my 97 dakota basically your saying the rpms are moving spiratically at times well you can check your distributer cap it may have moisture inside that may fix it well it worked for me
  • psiglerpsigler Member Posts: 1
    It was running ruff so I thought that i would do a tune up and I don't know if I have the wires in the right order.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There is a reason why the instructions on the spark-plug-wire box says to replace ONE AT A TIME. (Often says to start with longest and work you way down to shortest)

    Before we can help you get the ignition-wires hooked up right... we needs to know what engine you have? (The Dakota is availabe with 4 different engines)
  • johnmeeksjohnmeeks Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota R/T engine 5.9 360
    My problem is loss of power at high RPM’s at 60 mph if I floor it, it will down shift and no increase in speed. If I just give it a little gas so it will not down shift I can get as fast as I want. Well maybe not as fast as I want but fast enough.
    The auto parts store ran a code check and it is misfiring cylinders 1&3
    So far I have changes plugs, wires, cap, and ran two tank of fuel injector cleaner also my fuel presser in 48 lbs.

    I was thinking about changing the fuel injectors in 1 and 3. What would you say my next step be?
  • fpackardfpackard Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dakota 4.7 engine 230,000 mi automatic trans,4X4. Starting last year when it got below 35 degrees I get a engine fault code P0202. I know it's for the no. 2 injector control circuit but I am not sure if it is a problem. I get the same mileage after the code as before (17.3) so am wondering if this is more of a cold start problem? It starts easy when warm or cold any help is appreciated. Thanks, Frank
  • cjwillscjwills Member Posts: 3
    i have a 95 dakota with the 318, first off my truck was stalling going down the road and at red lights then it finally died and would not start just roll over ihad no spark and no fuel so i changed fuel pump and new plugs,wires,ect.. still nothing so tried a reman computer and changed all the relays,cam pos sensor, crank sensor still nothing,started tracing wires and found the red wire from auto shutdown relay to the computer was corroded fixed and the truck fired right up.
    now the truck has alittle miss at idle and going down the road if u give it alitttle gas and let i level off at a certain rpm the truck will backfire and start jerking also the truck would stall sometimes it will start and sometimes it wont. found out the plastic piece that hold the wire on the bottom of the coil was broke replaced the coil and the wires were loose so i filled the plug with dielectric grease. that seemed to fix the stalling problem but the backfire and jerking is still there and seems to be getting worse. yesterday i took the fuel rail and the injectors out inspected everything and cleaned everything. injectors seem to be electrically sound. also changed tps,torqued intake down, checked for vaccuum leaks none were found the only code i could retvive was code 12 (1 flash pause 2 flashes) and by the chiltons book is memory standby power lost. the book doesnt say what that is.
    the only thing that i can think of that hasnt been looked might be the catconverter or o2 sensor which the sensor was replaced 20,0000 miles ago
    is there any suggestions out there or any answer on the code im getting . by the way i have 107,000 miles on the truck
  • yfz450raceryfz450racer Member Posts: 1
    the fan is loose and i can't figure out whats wrong.
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