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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I looked up the code 12 on the official list of mopar codes and it confirms what you decoded. Code "12" equates to "memory standby power lost".

    Here is what this means...

    First of all, you need to understand that the computer on your Dak. LEARNS as you drive. Over the course of driving under differing conditions, it LEARNS the best setting for ignition timings, Idle speed, Shift points (automatic), injection timings and other critical things. These LEARNED datapoints are stored in a "map" which relate the proper settings to external conditions such as throttle-position, ambient-temperature, engine-temparture...etc.

    Then, as these same conditions are seen again, the computer can instantly apply the "tweaks" to tune the engine because it proviously LEARNED what the best settings were and stored them in memory. This "memory" is lost if power to the computer is lost. (battery is disconected, computer is unplugged, fuse blows...etc)

    Given the above..... we can now understand that "memory standby power lost" means that the power-supply that maintains all of the LEARNED datapoints was lost.

    The only way to recover from this condition is to DRIVE THE VEHICLE. Over time, the computer will reLEARN the correct datapoints. The errorcode will reset itself over time.
  • cjwillscjwills Member Posts: 3
    thanx for the reply on code twelve
  • bareback13bareback13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Dakota 3.9L and i am experience problems at a higher RPM both in gear and in nuetral. The truck just won't rev above 3,500 RPM's like it cuts out. But runs fine at low RPM's. Any ideas?????
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1990 dakota with 5.2L. I want to put a 5.9L in it. The 5.2L is internnaly balanced, and the 5.9L is externnaly balanced . What else has to be changed? Jeg has a flex plate for 5.9L w/904tf, will this bolt to the A500 converter? Or does the converter/flex got to be switched? The engine is also getting a cam upgrade. Where can the computer get upgraded? Or can I leave it?
  • pghpollockpghpollock Member Posts: 1
    my 1999 Dodge Dakota start fine but after running a minute or two will act like its running out of gas, it will backfire, and create a smelly exhaust. This occures for maby 15 seconds then you can drive the truck for hours with no problems unless you shut it off for a few minutes.

    Does not seen to be as bad when the engine is real cool or after you fill up the gas tank.
  • kmk894kmk894 Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced the engine with a used one, everything went well in the change and started right up, but the Idle is very high, almost wide open, is this something to do with the computer settings, this was my first engine change and Im not up to date on the newer stuff with computers. Can anyone help me out?
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    did you check for vacume leaks?
  • magnummarkmagnummark Member Posts: 2
    used to be when the truck got hot sitting in traffic (temp gauge past center/normal) fan would sound like it was slipping or "whirring" as soon as i started moving air, it would stop and normal engine sounds and temp would resume. now it does it all the time. i could be wrong but i heard the fan had a "gel" type coupling that would "melt" when the engine temp got hot(ter) is it the fan? I dont know....a little help???
  • 66buckeye6666buckeye66 Member Posts: 1
    Very nice forum!
    I recently rebuilt the oil pump in my 98 Dakota 2.5-liter. But, I can't get any oil pressure. Do I need to prime it first? (is there an easy way?). Or, is there another possible cause? I'm pretty sure the oil pressure sensor is ok. Thanks!
  • sickofnysickofny Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Dakota with a V6 and standard shift, I bought a wrecked 1995 with a 318 in it and a auto shift. I used all the wiring from the truck the 318 came out of and the computer also. The install went easy and the truck runs awesome, BUT now the code 12 Mem power loss and all the transmision codes for the automatic comes up because the whipes were left unhooked. Now the truck will run fine but when putting it in the forward gears it will drive for a undetermined length of time or distance and shut right down, the tach drops to 0 and the engine slowly dies down to nothing. Now I took it for a ride last week and it did ok but it of course died and wouldnt stay running when shifted from park to 1st gear etc. , I tried it in revearse and it ran great and I drove it in revearse all the way home about 5 miles and it didnt die out at all untill I pulled in the driveway and went to pull it forward into the parking spot and it died. HELP!!! I want my dakota back for the winter, Thanks ahead of time for any replies :confuse:
  • rolandtignorrolandtignor Member Posts: 5
    My cruise control doesn't work. I checked the fuse and it's fine.
    I have a 93 dodge dakota V6. 3.9L
    I've been searching for seven years on how to fix the problem.
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • stinky324stinky324 Member Posts: 6
    Does speedo work? check for codes for speed sensor fault Check throttle cable for cruise control
  • stinky324stinky324 Member Posts: 6
    2000 4.7 Dakota. All systems check good reads po171 lean.....Should be simple Tried every thing, but blows black smoke. 02 sensors working no leaks data all good. even tried ecm.Any one had same problem.
    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The computer *thinks* the engine is running lean but it is blowing black smoke (running rich). This really points to a problem with the O2 sensors.

    The 2000 4.7L was available with 2 emmissions packages depending on where your truck was sold.

    1) The "standard" emmissions package had 1 catalitic converter and one O2 sensor.

    2) The "boarder state emmissions package" had 3 catalitic converter and 4 O2 sensors.

    Which emmissions package does your 2000 have?
  • stinky324stinky324 Member Posts: 6
    2 O2 1 cat both o2 been changed....thinking fuel presser regulator 45psi still but maybe too much volume?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Not the fuel pressure (or flow)!

    Since the computer is reporting a "lean" condition... then it is the computer which is telling the injectors to squirt too much fuel (and blow black smoke)

    You need to keep looking into why the computer *thinks* the engine is running too lean.... this is usually the MAP sensor or the O2 sensors.

    A good diagnostic software installed on a laptop computer can actually show your all the signals going into the computer. (Including the MAP and O2 signals) That is what I use to diagnose these kinds of issues.
  • stinky324stinky324 Member Posts: 6
    I snap-on scanner on truck all sensors working, but I am looking at vacuum changing from 16" to 13'' and back but have not found vacuum leaks. Even pulled intake off to look for cracks . Throttle body sounds like it's pulling a lot of air. I've been looking for leaks. as vacuum changes so does map voltage. Funny I'm ase cert master tech, been fixing every one elses car, truck or motorcycle but my own. Thank you for any input.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Are you suggesting that the MAP sensor is showing some kind of "spiking" in its vacuum readings? If the vacuum is not *actually* spiking, then consider flaky electrical conneciton to the sensor. Bad electrical connections can REALLY confuse the engine-computer into doing all kinds of goofy things.

    As a professionl technician , somtimes you have to think "outside the box". Ask youself what else besides the obvious can cause the engine-computer to *think* the engine is running too lean.

    I have heard of a weak battery causing Dakota engine-computer to behave weird.... have you validated that the battery is fully charged and all cells check out with hydrometer?
  • dodgeit07dodgeit07 Member Posts: 1
    i want to put a small block 350 in my dakota but before that i want to do a frame swap dose anyone know what kind of frame i should go to?
  • jlockjlock Member Posts: 4
    I'm hoping someone can help me, I own a 2003 Dodge Dakota it came equipped with a 4.7 magnum engine, I had to have the engine replaced and opted for a 4.7 2006 engine. Since the installation I don't have as much power as before, is there a difference in computers between the 2003 and 2006? I have begun to notice when I drive and let off the throttle I get popping nosies in the exhaust like it's almost backfiring, sounds like the timing is off, also before cranking I have to turn the ignition on let the instrument panel light up a few seconds before I crank otherwise the engine will turn over a few times before it fires up.
  • tms7432tms7432 Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 Dakota (4.7 V8) has developed an oil leak. looks to be centered on the botom/front of the motor. almost directly behind the bottom belt pully. could this be a gasket issue? other ideas??
  • seventy7seventy7 Member Posts: 11
    I have had the same type of leak for almost 4 years now on my 2000 4.7. It started around 40K miles. It looks to be on the seal for the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft, behind the timing cover. Haven't done anything to it as it doesn't seem to be getting any worse over the last 3.5 years, but I probably lose about 2-3 litres of oil per year from the leak (never gets too low on the dipstick....just notice less oil comes out at each change). Looks to be a pain to fix it yourself as the radiator and more will have to come out to get at it. Any others have this problem, and how much work to repair?
  • ja812ja812 Member Posts: 33
    I had an oil leak in about the same spot that you are describing and it was the front seal. It cost about $130 to fix.The dealer took care of it because they changed the oil and I was a quart over.
    I only have them put in 5 qts when I get my oil changed now and then I will check it when I get home and add some if I need to.

    Hope this helps.
  • stinky324stinky324 Member Posts: 6
    Did more research.....Found that tha power steering pressure switch leaks fluid, goes in wire to reach O2 sensor causing problems... This was found last night on another forum, person had same problem, checked P/S switch and it is wet along with the new O2 sensor at the wires.. I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks you seen to want to help people, that's hard to find in todays world
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I had this same problem with the leaking power steering switch. I did get a code telling me it was the power steering switch and then I changed it. I did read on another forum that if it isn't changed that the fluid would go to the O2 sensor and cause it to stop functioning and require replacement. I'm glad I caught mine before it caused an O2 sensor problem.

    Ron
  • shislopshislop Member Posts: 3
    I am looking at a 2006 dakota quad V8 5 speed auto to tow my boat (5500 lb W/Trailler). The dealer put a class 4 hitch and wiring on. When I asked about the Tranny cooler he said it was built in. My ubderstanding was the cooler was an addition and located in front of the radiator. Am I getting a line?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I beleive that ALL the dakota automatic xmissions have a cooler infront of the radiator from the factory. Certainly you could add ANOTHER cooler inline with that one if you feel it is not sufficent.

    If you do not beleive it, open the hood and LOOK infront of the radiator.... you should see at least 2 other smaller radiators (one for A/C and one for Xmission)

    If you orderd your Dak with the "towing package", you should also find a small radiator near the power-steering pump.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yeah. I'm starting to see leaky front seals on 4.7s with higher mileage. Not all, though. Seems like its mostly 2002-2003s.

    Fortunately the dealer price for replacement is pretty inexpensive. I'd pay $130 rather than do it myself!

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dusty - Thanks for the heads-up about the front seal on the 4.7L.

    Mine is a very early 2000 (orderd from factory in November 1999) I have also been running ONLY synthetic oil since break-in oil.

    I guess I will have to check mine for leaks. With the lower engine-cover in place, there is no visual access from below. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to check for front seal leakage?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Happy New Year!!!

    On mine I just happen to notice some oil around the front of the oil pan. It never did drip on the ground or anything, so there's no indication that it was a serious leak. I didn't notice a leak at all until 84K. It's at 92K now.

    But I'm fussy about such things and replaced it.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • sickofnysickofny Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Dakota, 318, standard shift, 4x4. I have a bad computer on this truck and need to know if I can have a computer out of a 93 ,2 wheel drive with an 318 automatic flashed to work with my 1995?- or am I waisting my time. I dont have a ton of money to spend on this truck so I figure flashing the computer could be a inexpensive place to start. I keep getting a code for memory power loss and have no idea how to fix it any ideas guys? sickofny@hotmail.com.
  • cjwillscjwills Member Posts: 3
    i also have a 95 with the 318 auto tran though but i am also showin memory power loss i posted it on here and they said the only way to fix it is to drive it and it will reset its self i drove for a month and it was still doing it i had a spare computer i got for another problem which it wasnt the problem so i put that in and drove it for two months and it is still showing code 12 standby memory power loss so dont get a computer unless u really need one
  • prestocatprestocat Member Posts: 6
    I have an 89 dakota with a 2.5L engine and a manual trans. The engine has a miss to it when idling and it kinda bucks when you're driving and you try to level out your speed. As soon as you give it a little more gas, it seems to clear itself up. The spark plugs keep carboning up, and we only got 86 miles to a 3/4 tank of gas. We've tried pulling codes and nothing is stored in the computer. We've also did a compression test and that was good. We've put dry gas in it, and we've changed the spark plugs and wires, the dist cap and rotor, and the fuel filter. We've also changed the egr valve, the coolant temp sensor, the throttle pos sensor, and the map sensor. We're thinking of trying an o2 sensor. Any ideas of what could be wrong or what to try? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! TIA!
  • marshall12marshall12 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 96 dodge dakota sport with a 2.5 l 4 cylinder with 338000 miles it started running rough so i changed plugs ,wires , cap , and rotar button also 02 sensor , the problem started out when i was at a quarter tank off gas then it moved to pretty much all the time now. was wondering if it could be a sensor problem , fuel filter problem or if something i replaced refouled out, .the truck acts like its have way getting gas to the engine spits and sputters and it was clearing up if i would hold in cluch and floor gas pedal for a second but then it would act up again after a few minutes now that doesnt aven help . any help would be greatly appreciated
  • ata3001ata3001 Member Posts: 30
    I have an 05 Dakota w/4.7 & 5 spd auto purchased new. Mine did not have an auxiliary oil cooler in front of the radiator from the factory. I added a B&M stacked plate cooler shortly after purchasing it. I change out the fluid every year as well. I tow a 4000# camper. No problems at all.
  • rcormier1rcormier1 Member Posts: 1
    Im new here! My husband and i just bought a 2007 Dakota in August. Today he goes to change the oil and he cant seem to get the new filter on. Anyone else have trouble getting the filter on after an oil change? he has never changed the oil in the dakota before, but he changed our tundra's all the time. idk whats going on...
  • bmethotbmethot Member Posts: 1
    I own 1999 dodge dakota with 207000 kms I am getting coolant leak in base, engine runs smooth no noise. any suggestion where coolant is leaking in to oil.
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    Need to replace the intake gasket .
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    you will need aflex plate from magnume engine 360 this is ballanced so you dont have to replace the converter unles you want a stall converter .will need a oil pan .I would port the intake so thay match the 360 ports on the cylender head ,thay are larger than the 318 .now if you take the head off the 318 and port and polishthem and put them on the 360.that would raise the conpretoin,MORE POWER .Its to bad that the trany is A500 not ,A518 it is hevy duty .The throttle body injection will be fin as it will ajust . I got a converter from florida torque converter they will biuld what you need as like stall from 1200 to 2100RPM.
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    YOU want to put a GM engine in a DAKOTA ,if your truck got a 3.9L wy dont you put a MOPAR 360ci in IT......................IT will blow those chevys/fords away,Remember MOPARs RULE ..................
  • mladanyemladanye Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Dakota 2WD Quad Cab 5-speed automatic with a 4.7. I bought it new. After owning it 1500 miles or so, I noticed a vibration through the cab, very strong, at 72 mph in overdrive, and 59 mph w/ overdrive off, both at 2200rpm. I brought it to my selling dealer, who agreed that the noise and vibration did not feel normal. Their technician, over the next two months of service visits, replaced the flexplate, torque converter, short block (they said maybe the crankshaft was machined improperly), harmonic balancer, driveshaft, complete exhaust system, and three of the four tires. A lot of wasted warranty time and parts, as it still has EXACTLY the same noise and vibration at the same speeds. It does not do it at idle - I have to be driving at road speed, and the vibration is stronger under load, like driving up a long steady hill. Any similar complaints - ideas??
  • nancysneidernancysneider Member Posts: 1
    will a 1993 3.9 V6 dakota engine interchange with a 1995 3.9 V6 dakota engine? If so what all needs to be changed to make it work?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The only vibration I had with my Dak was one of the Ujoints on the rear axle wore out. It was replaced under warantee.
  • mailee75mailee75 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, i'm having troubles with my dakota...it's a 94 sport, 3.9 automatic 2 wheel drive.

    so, when i start the truck, it shimmies n shakes, if you give it gas while still in park, it has a high pitched whine that accelerates and goes down with the engine....can't figure it out....when you drive, it seems to be sluggish, like somethings holding it back, tranny seems to shift when it suppose to but hits hard and winds out a little when goin into 3rd....tranny fluide is full and doesn't look or smell burnt. we recently put on new brakes, rotors (on front), and rims with wider tires off a durango...but do not have a lift on it yet, so the tires rub a little, but they don't seem to be the problem as this is going on when the truck is in park and you give it gas.....

    also, it's not throwing any codes....

    :sick:

    any suggestions on what to try or what it could be? thanks in advance
  • unclemike007unclemike007 Member Posts: 3
    I've recently become a Mopar enthusist since my Procharged 383 S-10 was spanked by a 95' dakota with a procharged 360. With the S-10 days left behind I purchased a 94' dakota SLT, and with all the mustangs running around un-cheked I'm ready for a possible swap from a 318 to a 360 (bad valve knock!) But everyone warns me and no-one will help! Will some one help Me put these mustangs to rest! I just need the recipe, I'll cook it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    How about this K-car? I was present to watch this happen. The crowd was laughing until the lights turned green.

    Keep in mind that car in the other lane is a REAR DRIVE Toyota Supra with a turbocharged, twin-rotor Mazda engine.

    That K-car is 4-cylinder FWD WITHOUT nitrous and it can blow away hondas, mustangs and most any other car. It is inexpensive to make those K-cars go fast. (just add turbocharger)
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    first you need a block reconditioned 0.020 over 360 LA type ,cast-iron stock stroke [3.58] crank , KBsilv-0-lite hypereutectic flat top 1.58-inch [pn 4876907 or 1.63-inch pn4876908 compression height , reconditioned forged steel,stock-length 6.123 inches the cam is up to you depen on how you want /where the power will work for you crane cam rocker arms shaft-mount 1.5:1 adjustable , double roller timing set , the heads aerohead chrysler 340/360 [915or587castings] reconditioned [stock iron castings with 2.02/1.60-inch valves,0.509-inch-lift springs,bronze guides,chrome-moly retainers,7-degree iocks,performer RPM intake and 750 cfm or holly injection should make 375hp-400/410lb-ft torque it all depends an cam shaft ,aluminum heads are good to ,good luk
  • unclemike007unclemike007 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks much! Sounds like I'll be setting up an acount with PAW and Jegs! I'll post pics and vid when I'm done. Angain thank You!!!
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    i forgot you will also need a harmonic ballecer the 360 is externaly balleced allso the flex plate if you use the one off your 318 you need a wait on the coverter .I just built a 93 360 but i used the stock intake do to funds .had to port the intake to match the 360 head ports .that is starving the pore girl but still runs good put stuby headers on and had custume exaust duels with hi flow converters and aero turbine mufflers igot a picture of the truck in carspace. hope to see what yougot see ya
  • unclemike007unclemike007 Member Posts: 3
    I almost forgot! What about the motor mounts? Do I have to mess with relocating them or do I just get 360 mounts and button it up?
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