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thanks
My problem is that I lose power after about 50mph I push the pedal all the way down and there is no response it will slowly get up but it takes its sweet time...
Was told either the timing is off or the fuel pump is clogged by the dodge dealer, any suggestions??
Thanks,
David
Omen
Robert
The gray sludge, by the way, is likely material from the camshaft chain tensioners wearing badly. What kind of oil have you been using?
Regards,
Dusty
The 4.7L semi-hemi actually WON AWARDS when it was first introduced. It is overbuilt even for a truck engine. (Nodular iron bedplate usually found on hi-tech racing engines!!)
Everywhere one looks at the 4.7L, there are surprises in the design. From the close factory toleraces to the extra-high piston-ring pressures. The hollow camshafts which deliver oil directly where it is needed. This engine is designed for the long-haul.
Of course, some folks ignore the recommended oil specs which are there for a reason.
BTW: I changed the oil in my 2000 4.7 thisafternoon! (I am still running synthetic oil due to the emulsion issue.)
This is cory. I have a dodge full size truck doing the same thing. Just wondering if you figured out what was wrong with your dakota?
:confuse:
But today while driving, the truck sounded as if it was not in gear and then would not accelerate well no matter how much I pushed down on the gas. Then it sounded as if there was air coming out of a hose. When I pulled over and took a look it smelled like melting plastic. The plastic part of the EGR valve was melted. So I replaced the EGR valve again.
And after a few blocks it sounded as if the valve blew again. ANd sure enough the valve looks as if the very center of the plastic piece is melted or blew straight down the center of it.
Any help or suggestion of what I can do would be really great.
I would love to speak to you regarding your 2001 Dakota with engine failure. If you can click on my username and find an email address, shoot me a quick email. I'll reply back to you.
If you can't find an email, reply to this thread and let me know that. And I'll put my email address on here. Thanks.
- Jason
SO got that replaced and then put in the 3rd EGR valve and it runs like it should again. Wow forgot what a beast it is. Thank you to our local Shucks who replaced not 1 but 2 melted EGR valves under warranty for us. There customer service is awesome. ANd I have to drive by 4 other parts stores to get to them but it is worth it.
Here is a write-up on the 4.7L semi-hemi. (with photos)
Perhaps this will help you identify your engine.
HINT: The 4.7L does not have any sparkplug wires while the 5.2 does.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Trivia: The 4.7L was first available in the Jeep Grand Cherokee in 1999. Starting in 2000, it was also available in the Dodge Dakota. (Replacing the 1960s-era 318ci)
shortly followed by the gauge. Both go out at 1100 rpm. Suggestions?
Also, you may try a can of STP oil treatment when you put the fresh oil in it. This will add extra detergents to the oil to help clean up the lifters. The STP oil treatment also improves viscosity (thickens the oil) which will help quiet the lifter-rattle.
You should EXPECT the oil to get dirty pretty quickly with the STP in it. You may as well use inexpensive oil because you will be draining it before 3,000 miles.
If you are REALLY serious about cleaning the inside of your engine. Consider running MOBIL1 synthetic after that. The synthetic oils are extremely good at scrubbing the inside of an engine sqeeky-clean.
I once bought a car that had 1/4 inch of gunk on the inside of the valve-cover.... I started to run only MOBIL1 in that engine. About a year later, I removed the valve-cover to adjust the valves and I could SEE MY REFLECTION in the shiny metal on the underside.
I filled fuel tank to filler neck and was driving 40 mph about 8 miles from shell sta when motor lost power I floored it got no response it sputtered and died.I could get it to start and idle and it would die after 30-45 seconds.I waited 10 minutes it started I put it into 1st it drove 15 yards and it died again.I went home to get vehicle to tow dakota home I returned 2 hours later I started it and it ran normal so I pulled out onto road drove it to stop sign about 100 yards and died again . I towed it home next day it would start and idle for about 1 minute then quit .It started for me 5x now it won't start,I'm quessing it might be a fuel problem I figured bad gas maybe fuel filter,I went to parts store and they told me this dakota has a internal filter and I need to replace fuel pump cost $160.00
It seems to be a fuel problem but I'm not sure are there some other things that would cause this? what should I be checking. I also checked for codes and I got 23 and 5 :confuse:
I have replaced the crank sensor, computor, dist modual, pickup coil. ran 12volts to the fuel pump so I know it works, also have check all the fueses and most of the grounds, and all of the relays I think any one with any thoughts on what else I should check ???
I am so out of Ideals.
The detection of coolant in the oil or a bad head gasjket can be diagnosed. I would recommend you perform these tests or have your local repair establishment perform them for you first. Mopars aren't noted for having head gasket problems and I haven't seen or even heard of one in years. A bad intake manifold gasket can cause a problem, however.
In the meantime I would change out the oil and see if the knock goes away. If it does it indicates that there was probably too much moisture (water) in the oil. Then perform the test for coolant and proceed accordingly.
Good luck,
Dusty
HINT: Check if your Dakota has rack-n-pinion steering (1st available in MY2000)
To more specifically answer your question "How do I check to see if she messed up a head or a gasket?"
The common way is to do a "bleeddown test" and a "compression test".
I assume you DID verify that you have rack-n-pinion steering.
Now that we have that setteled.... how did you determine that you have water in the oil?
Just incase you were not aware...
The very early 4.7L engines had a tendancy to build up water-oil emulsion in the oil-filler tube. There were several 'recalls' pertainig to this. (I am very aware of them because I initiated at least one of the recalls)
The 2 changes were
1) The oil-filler cap was redesigned to contain an insulating barrier from colder under-hood air.
2) An insert (factroy calls it a "baffle") was developed which slides into the oil-filler tube.
Both of the above changes to the very early MY 2000 4.7L oil-filler tube were intended to reduce the buildup of condensation inside the oil-filler tube.
I have a '98 Dodge Dakota, V-6 , 3.9 4x4. Its been a good truck over the years and I have taken care of it the best way I can. Its got me around 188,000 miles, I cannot complain much. Low cylinder compression in cylinders 4 and 6 . OKAY needs a new head gasket.
Tore it all apart and swapped out the gaskets with the top end overhaul kit.
New cylinder heads- cause they were cracked.
OK.. RE-INSTALLING the heads went fine - torqued down to spec.
Now I am installing the INTAKE MANIFOLD onto the heads and I keep snapping bolts--#1 and #2 in the sequential order. I replaced the bolts and bought a new torque wrench- Craftsman dial- in torque release---How could one go wrong? Snapped another with Dodge dealer bought bolts and new torque wrench---
Haynes book says to tighten to 12lbs and rock around up to 144 lbs---Dodge dealer said to start at 24lbs to 48 to 82 lbs---I have tried Haynes first and broken bolts ---redid everything and tried Dealer way---still same results.
What is the proper torque spec and foot lbs; so I dont have to keep replacing bolts ?
Please , any help would be Wonderful. Losing my sanity in Oklahoma . Thank-you
Regards,
Dusty
Looks like your going to be pulling the pan anyways.
Regards,
Dusty
P.S. I once found an oil pump screen blocked by a heavy paper return parts tag on a '70 Ford. That engine had 16,000 miles on it before it seize from lack of lubrication.