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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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Comments

  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    please can someone shed a light for me its driving me nuts :confuse:
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    What do you mean the oil pump is shutting down? Do you mean your oil light is coming on? I am a 15 year Chrysler mechanic. If your oil light is coming on and off you should first look at the oil pressure sending unit which is located on the top of the engine in back next to the distributor. See if it is leaking or if oil is in the plug. If not the next step is to hook up a manual oil gauge but short of that you could just replace the sending unit as it is an inexpensive part. If the prob continues you probabally really have engine oil pressure issues.
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    thanks for responding well this prob is happening on my 94 dakota i will definately use your help and post back after doing this thanks
  • trod_615trod_615 Member Posts: 1
    we just bought an 02 dodge dakota with 103,000 miles. within the first month the air bag light came on and the mechanic could not figure out the problem now the darn thing will not start on wet days. i bought a new fuel pump assembley, spark plugs and wires and distributor cap all in the past two weeks now when swapping vehicles with my boyfriend the engine light came on. I took it to advanced auto and it is popping a 420 code catalyst emissions running below efficiency......does anyone know what the heck that means??????
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    edited February 2010
    That could mean your catalytic converter is plugged - that would also cause the starting problems because of the backpressure and inability to "breathe" properly. Have an exhaust specialist check out the system from the manifold to the tailpipe.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • idunno009idunno009 Member Posts: 7
    Hey dasboot, this is unrelated to your post but I had a quick question- My 06 dakota occasionally makes a loud thud noise when idling..I thought it might be my heater kicking on or something but I dont know..It happens when something in the engine block kicks on during idle..Any ideas?
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    Sounds to me like the A/C compressor cycling. If it gets real loud it may mean you have a compressor clutch or compressor itself issue or an A/C overcharge issue (If you've had any A/C work done recently.) Lust watch the compressor with the engine running and have someone turn on the A/C. You should see the clutch engage and if the noise is what you are hearing it will make the noise as you watch.
  • idunno009idunno009 Member Posts: 7
    that makes sense, thank you. Ill take a look and see
  • idunno009idunno009 Member Posts: 7
    I have another one for you..There is a raddling click sound coming from the front left wheel after I hit a decent sized bump. The same sound also happens when i brake alittle harder than average, but its just one loud click sound instead of a rattle of them..any ideas? note- a mechanic recently told me that my outer tie rods were getting alittle loose and i recently had my brakes done
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    A common source of front suspension noise on an ND body Dakota is a bad sway bar link. Drive down the street and swereve right to left seeing if you can get the noise to happen. Then reach under the truck and grab each sway bar like one at a time and have somebody bounce the front end of the truck. See if you feel anything in one or both of the links.
  • idunno009idunno009 Member Posts: 7
    I appreciate it. I jacked it up yesterday and checked out the sway bar and I think that the bushing might be alittle worn on the one, so I think you are right.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    Just want to let you know that you need to check the links and bushings with the suspension loaded (tires on the ground) Like I said previously, you need to get your hand on one of the links and have someone bounce the front of the truck. If its bad you will feel it in the link (you'll feel movement and or clunking). Don't try to check it jacked up because that pulls any play in the links tight.
  • idunno009idunno009 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks I'll check it again. I took it into a shop today and they told me that it was both the outer tie rod and the ball joints needing replaced, but couldnt pin point the sound between the two..I know the outer tie rods are alittle loose but i dont think my ball joints need touched (another shop told me they were fine). I told them to look at the bushings but he claims they werent the cause of the noise..but im going to check them again cause im hoping its just those..im alittle leary because he pinpointed the sound to the most expensive fixes up there
  • idunno009idunno009 Member Posts: 7
    (2nd response) so the shop replaced my outer tie rod (which needed done anyway) and that didnt fix the metallic clicking noise
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I have a '98 Dakota 4X4 with the V-6. I am hearing the PCV valve rattling under a load. I am CERTAIN that's where the noise is coming from, not a lifter or engine noise. I changed the PCV months ago when I did a tune up, so I know it's good. Today I pulled the valve out of the valve cover and I note a lot of vacuum present. Could this be a bad intake manifold gasket? I looked in my Haynes manual and there is a plenum under the intake that has about a dozen or so bolts in it and a rectangular gasket there. Here's the kicker: I took it to a mechanic locally and told him what I felt was happening with the PCV valve noise, and he said most likely it IS that manifold gasket. But he also told me that my TIMING CHAIN was making the noise! He said he recently did this same job on a 2000 Durango that the owner was claiming made the same noise. This truck has 100,725K on it and I've never had any timing chain issues. It is a strong running vehicle. I was not expecting him to tell me that this issue is both a gasket AND a timing chain problem. I've actually NEVER had a timing chain issue on any vehicle I've ever owned. I know they can stretch, break, etc. But I have a good, strong running truck that really never misses a beat here except for this rattling noise coming from the PCV valve only. Does anyone have or has had a similar experience like this? I'd appreciate some help on this and thanks in advance.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I just wanted to say that I had a freeze plug go out on my '98 Dakota V-6 in 2006. Of course, it would be the one that they had to pull the transmission back to get at. Needless to say, the difference in parts cost and the labor to do this job was extremely high(Over 700 bucks!) I had no choice but to do it if I wanted the leak to stop. This was a highly professional garage and the Tech even took digital pictures of the leaking plug and showed me before even starting the repair job. There are 2 back there and both were replaced. Just thought I'd share.
  • mitraxmitrax Member Posts: 2
    on a 2001 dodge dakota slt 4x4 4.7 engine where is the oil pressure switch and what size socket is required to remove it?
  • mitraxmitrax Member Posts: 2
    i went to smyth and they sold me a switch socket, trucks running again all is cool
  • daddy1o161daddy1o161 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota. 4.7 replace plugs-wiring-oil, still knocks on passenger side of truck, dealers- say all different things none worked, spend to much money and no help,can some one help me. please :cry:
  • kevin2502000kevin2502000 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 93 Dak 4x4 with 3.9 auto. It runs fine under 3500rpm with no problems. No check engine lights. Once you punch the throttle it bogs out at 3500. It will do this sitting in park or going down the highway. The plugs all looked good and are low mileage. New rotor, cap, and switched out the distributor pick-up coil with no change. It has 160,000 miles on it. I can feel all the injectors pulsing by touching and when I hold it to the floor and spray something flammable into the TB nothing changes. This leads me to believe it is a spark issue. The wires are not very old either, less than 10k. Any ideas?
  • dwalker4dwalker4 Member Posts: 1
    ive got a 2003 dodge dakota with a small v6. its the smallest one. it seems like a 4 cylinder. but i was wondering wat is the biggest engine i could probably get to give high speed and torque.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Judging from your description, the computer has fallen into "limp mode" which will purposfully limit maximum RPM to "protect" critical engine components.
  • willieboy62willieboy62 Member Posts: 7
    maybe to late, but sounds like pluged up exhaust! (CAT. convertor)
    so exhaust is forced to egr
  • willieboy62willieboy62 Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2010
    the code 420 means you need a new catalyst and not related to the airbag light or the no start problem... If your engine is not running right it will damage the CAT.
  • willieboy62willieboy62 Member Posts: 7
    try an oem pcv valve
  • willieboy62willieboy62 Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2010
    two things to check the spark from the igni. coil the way I do this is take the coil wire off the dist. cap and put a screwdriver that will fit in that end leaving the other end on the coil hold the screwdriver about half an inch away from engine ground and have someone crank the engine. You should get a big blue looking spark. If weak or yellowish maybe orange you have a weak coil.
    If ok next thing to try little hard to check is to take the exhaust loose before the catalytic converter. If you do that and now the engine does not bog your exhaust is plugging up somewhere maybe bad catalytic converter.
  • gr82ridegr82ride Member Posts: 1
    Ok guys I have one here that has me pulling my hair out. I have a 2002 Dakota quad with the 4.7. When I turn the switch key from off to on (not start) the starter kicks in and the truck will start and the starter stays engaged. It does it most of the time but not all of the time. I have replaced the Starter, ignition switch, and the engine start relay. Anyone have any ideas? The truck has been sitting for a year and a half but I think the reason it has been sitting is the start issue.
  • gdelamottegdelamotte Member Posts: 1
    I have a 200 Dodge Dakota Sport w/3.9. 42,000 miles. Runs great, but when it's cold out , below 30 degrees and the engine temp is cold she knocks and clatters at idol. When the engine worms to operating temp, it lessens a little, when traveling 50-55 you can hear the noise over the radio. When it's between 40 degrees out and the engine is at operating temp the noise almost goes away. Very little to no noise when traveling and at idol. Any ideas.
  • iceman21iceman21 Member Posts: 1
    Just replaced the battery and after sitting for 2 days battery was 11.5v. charged it and started, but ran rough. Dissconnected cables and reset computer and ran fine.
  • nopower4nopower4 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 95 Dakota with a 2.5 liter engine that has about one third the power that it should. It has 115,000 miles and drives and sounds ok just no power. I changed the plug wires. Could my catalytic converter be plugged, or is the timing off. I have not checked the compression yet. It does not blow any smoke. If anyone has any ideas I could use the help. Thanks
  • dallasedallase Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1999 dakota w/ 3.9 engine is there more than one camshaft position sensor on this truck other than the one in the distributer , I was told by a mechanic that there was one on the back of the engine on the camshaft itself , and he said this was the one that needed replacing. the truck would not start after i shut it off today
  • ram032ram032 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Dakota,the engine devolped a knock and is undrivable.My quetsion is how long is the Drive Train covered under warrenty,it only has 35000 miles on it.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    On my 2005, the drive train warranty was 7 years/70,000 miles.
  • rich14rich14 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2002 dakota 4.7 , ever since i bought it it takes at least two tomes turning the key before it starts, never on the first time, and when it gets warmer or i use the air it takes three to four times, just wondering if anyone had an answer
  • dallasedallase Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1999 dakota 3.9 when i first start the truck the engine is fairly quiet , but after it warms up it starts clattering , not a deep knock just a clatter it quietens down a bit w/ acceleration but never goes completely away.. I think i have isolateded it to the rear of engine around the distributer area does anyone have any idea what this could be? oil pressure is great , temp. good , charging good Just stumped!!!
  • 9d9dak9d9dak Member Posts: 3
    pghpollock, I've experienced the same exact problem as you have described. I replaced the IAC, TPS and cleaned the TB. Now it runs great! Curious to know if you found the problem for your Dakota.
  • 9d9dak9d9dak Member Posts: 3
    edited July 2011
    Follow up to my previous reply. It ran great for a short time. I found the real cause of my problem. The up stream O2 sensor causes this problem without throwing a check engine light (CEL)or code. The PCM on this model often does not throw a CEL or code when the O2 sensor is failing until it completely fails. Once it fails and the CEL comes on the hesitation during acceleration problem stops. Replace the sensor with a factory part. You may want to look up "open loop/closed loop 99 Dodge Dakota." I hope this helps anyone who still owns this truck. - 2ndadam7
  • seventy7seventy7 Member Posts: 11
    (2000 Dakota, 4.7 Liter, 5-speed, 4x4)

    Broke off the plastic crankshaft position sensor while trying to remove it (after getting a P0320 error code). Dakota shop manual says to pry it out using 2 screwdrivers - good luck with that! It was stuck on so hard that it wouldn't even move with vise grips and a LOT of force. It was almost as if it was welded in there. I guess that's what 11 years of heat will do. I've been accessing it from below (not from inside the wheel-well), and it doesn't allow for a lot of manipulation. Finally got it to rotate (after breaking off the mounting tang) but it still would not move outwards. Then broke the smaller end off. I then cut a notch into the side of what was left to get a pry bar on it, and force would still not get it moving away from the engine block. Then it broke again. Now I have about 1/2" left of plastic sticking out of the block that will only rotate, but not come out. I was thinking of tapping a bolt into it, and maybe pulling it out with a slide hammer. Another option would be to drill out the center enough so I could get vise grips onto it and pulling it straight out from inside the wheel well. It almost seems that the end inside the block has mushroomed into the crankcase and is too large to fit back through the hole. I don't want to have to punch it through and fish it out of the oil pan, as it is a 4x4 and the axle would have to be removed to get at the pan. Any suggestions as to how to proceed (without getting a mechanic involved)? Anyone have a similar experience?
  • peepingtompeepingtom Member Posts: 2
  • peepingtompeepingtom Member Posts: 2
    Hi

    Now, you 05 owners stay out of this... We all know where the pcv valve is on 05's, behind the oil filler... Not so on 06's (the book is wrong and only applies to 05s). I have a hose that goes out of the rear drivers side and seems to go into the back of the intake, where I can not see it or reach it.

    Now most of you mechanics will probably say, "you pcv valve is right there where the hose comes off the vavle cover...." No, it is not. only a right angle hose connector (hollow, no vavle inside, nor the means to have one there) which connects to a rigid plastic vacuum tube, that goes behind the intake close to the firewall, where no one can reach it.... Or see it.

    Now, am I right in thinking it's mounted back there? and if so, how do I safely get it off?

    I would appreciate some advice from someone that has actually changed one of these.
  • phreaquephreaque Member Posts: 1
    03 Dakota quad cab 4x4 4.7 magnum. Recently mil came on and truck died. Set then restarted drove home. Codes came up as p0339 p0340 and p0344 cam and crank sensor error. I reset the codes drove it around faulted again. Only got p0344 crank sensor. Replaced sensor drove beautiful for 10 mins no miss no shudder then you guessed it code back. Old sensor had resistance at b and c showing it was bad new sensor same. Something is causing the sensor to fail rapidly. I know this is lengthy but wanted as much info in as possible. Wonderring if since had bad cam sensor to start also if it can cause issue or hoping not pcm is causing to fail. Any suggestions much apreciated.
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    Both the crank and cam sensors are Hall effect solid state. They operate
    between 0 and 5 volts max. While they can go squirrely and cause weird
    symptoms, generally they are reliable.
    Crank sensor provides timing info to the PCM for the injector system.
    Cam sensor provides timing info to the PCM for ignition.

    Did you measure the sensors before you changed them?
  • harley180harley180 Member Posts: 7
    did you ever check the timing out.it sounds like it may be out.
  • harley180harley180 Member Posts: 7
    have you tried to put a shim between starter and engine because some GM truck are like that. the shim might stop it cause they might be to close
  • harley180harley180 Member Posts: 7
    check your cat first if its good i would look towards the trany maybe it needs a service cause this will cause you to have lack of power
  • harley180harley180 Member Posts: 7
    mine was the timing was out try that
  • harley180harley180 Member Posts: 7
    i had the same problem i found out when you change the crank you must change the cam to then take it to a mec.to get it programed
  • harley180harley180 Member Posts: 7
    did you get your truck reprogramed
  • harley180harley180 Member Posts: 7
    it could be a relay thats overheating. check you engine relays :blush:
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    Are you replying to me? I'm not the one that changed the cam sensor.
    BTW..who told you that you need to reprogram the PCM after changing
    the cam (or crank) sensor?????
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