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Comments
Look for a circuit breaker in the power distribution box.
Regards,
Dusty
As I was reviewing your problem, I suspect that you have a short somewhere in the power window circuit. The circuit breakers used in automotive service are self-resetting, meaning once the short has been removed they reset automatically.
Regards,
Dusty
20 seconds later and a new fuse - everything works.
Word of caution - the dashboard power outlet is always on so if you leave your cell charger in it all the time (like I did) you will at some point overload the fuse and burn it out (like I did).
Best regards,
Dusty
Various computers...the Prowertrain Control Module (PCM), Transmission Control Module (TCM), Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM), the Anti-lock Brake Controller, and the radio just to name a few...draw memory keep-alive current when the ignition switch is in the off position.
The current draw is between 25 and 200 milliamperes depending 0n model and optional equipment. I recommend measuring the actual current before assuming an exceptional current draw.
If you have a factory original battery on a 2002, I would suspect that the real cause is the battery is beginning to die. A simple load test (Auto Zone or other auto parts store) can determine the battery condition.
Best regards,
Dusty
"what can i do to find out what is killing my battery"
Answer:
1st - make certian that the charging system is working.
If that is OK - Use an ammeter to isolate which circuit is drawing current when engine is not running. Once you know which main circuit is the culprit... then troubleshoot to isolate the problem using successive approximation and isolation techniques.
Thanks,
Brian
Basically, if you do not see at least 14.8 volts at all times while engine it running, then charging system is suspect.
About a week after the initial problem the headlights would not turn on, however when I held back the turn signal switch the high beams came on. The next day I looked at the headlight switch and there were black marks on the terminal connecting the wire for the low beams, so I cleaned up the terminal and replaced the headlight switch and the low beams worked again. About an hour later I tried to start the truck and nothing happened, I turned on the headlights and it cranked right up, so I'm guessing the headlight switch isn't what was causing my problem.
Yesterday I turned the key to the on position and there were no dash lights, no buzzer, and the headlights wouldn't come on. I turned the key back to the accessory position and the radio and a/c turned on, so the battery seemed fine. I turned the key back to the on position, left it there for about 5 or 10 minutes, and the dash lights and buzzer slowly faded up, and once they turned on I turned the key and it started up fine. It's done the same thing twice since then, each time taking a little longer for the dash lights and buzzer to turn on.
All of the issues seem to be related to the truck starting, because I haven't had any problems with electrical equipment with the key in the accessory position or while the truck is running, but I'm completely stumped at this point, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Have you gotten a answer to your question? I am now having the same problem. Let me know what the out come was for your truck.
Thank you in advance!
Ron
greg
Ron
Eric
BTW: I have been working on vechiles for over 30 years and am trained in electronics... but do not know what "thermistor sensor" would do in relation to a blower-motor. There is , however, a sensor WITHIN all electric motors (federal safety law) that will open up if the windings get too hot. Is this the sensor you are refering to?
Your problem should be easy enough to troubleshoot and isolate with a DVM (DigitalVoltMeter)
Your question was not foolish... but it has been asked sooooo mannnnyyyy times that it got old about 3 years ago.
I am glad you will take the time to research BEFORE asking. Perhaps, in the end, you will have gaind somthing more than just an answer to your immedeate question.
I beleive in teaching a man to fish instead of just feeding him. I hope you understand what I mean here. 8-)
thanks
kcram - Pickups Host.
CTC = Central Timer Console
2002 2w dr reg cab Sport v6 auto
DO NOT THINK THIS IS A DAKOTA-ONLY PROBLEM. I have had to replace burned out blower-resistor on Chevy and Honda.... but never on my 2000 Dakota!
Do not forget that the blower-resistor is almost RED HOT when it is in operation. That is why it is mounted inside the air-plenum so the flowing air will keep it cool.
Seems like these trucks have a lot of electrical issues!
Any ideas?
Regards,
Dusty