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Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • lgoodwinlgoodwin Member Posts: 4
    I have checked all fuses at the JB, the PDC under hood and replaced dash light switch. I pulled what I thought was the CTM and took to 2 parts stores. Cross check on part number showed as an ABS module. It was in the right place, behind passenger kick panel, under dash, with right dimensions (approx 5 X 6), with one 14 pin connector on the top. The module is full of electronic parts and pieces. Picture at stores looked the same as the module (approx $100.00). Was the only module I could find or see on either side of the dash. Any ideas on the possible disconnect in the description/identification between the CTM and an ABS module? Or is this the right part being called a different name?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, I'm pretty sure that an ABS module is going to be a heck of a lot more than $100.

    Mistakes in the parts list at aftermarket stores are real common. I've gotten the wrong transmission filter for my daughter's Hyundai Accent, and the wrong upper radiator hose and PCV valve for my friends '98 Chrysler Concorde in the last two weeks alone. An acquaintance is overhauling the engine on a 2001 Grand Am and told me he got the wrong intake manifold gasket set and incorrect timing chain from AutoZone.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • masterkenobimasterkenobi Member Posts: 5
    Hello,

    I have a 93 Dakota 3.9, and my power door locks suddenly quit working. I have checked the fuses and they are all good.
    Also, my rear speakers don't work most of the time. Every once in a while they will work, but the next time the car is turned off and on they don't work for days at a time. I thought it was my radio but when I replaced the radio the problem persisted.
  • masterkenobimasterkenobi Member Posts: 5
    The speedo on my 93 dakota is out, however it is not the same problem that some other people have described here.
    My ABS and brake dash lights ARE NOT coming on.
    I recently purchased this truck in this condition, and the previous owner said that the speedo used to work until she had the ignition cylinder replaced, and stopped working since. Any ideas?
  • yokyyoky Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 dakota and im having problems with my headlight and time i turn them in the will work for a while then shut off and flash sometimes
    i think its the switch over heating but i replaced it and im still having the same prolem
    ive talked to a few technicians and they said that i probably have a short somewhere (causing the switch to over heat)
    i would just take the truck in and have them fix it but i havent been able to find a job in over a year now so thats not really an option
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. In this case I'd suspect a bad connection from the PCM to the instrument panel, or a defective speedometer gauge.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You may or may not have a short, but I've seen a few headlight switches replaced on that vintage Dakota.

    The headlights utilize a circuit breaker in the fuse panel. The circuit breaker could be defective, or the circuit is drawing too much current.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • masterkenobimasterkenobi Member Posts: 5
    I recently bought a 93 dakota, and the previous owner apparently accidentally pulled the wire that goes to the horn. The horn itself works but obviously without the wire there's no power going to it. (I tested it directly from the battery) Would anyone be able to tell me where this wire comes from so I can try to reconnect it? Or maybe what it looks like (like the wire color)? I found no lose wires around the horn unfortunately. Thanks in advance.
  • masterkenobimasterkenobi Member Posts: 5
    Problem solved. Speedo cable came off and was hiding deep behind the instrument cluster.
  • lgoodwinlgoodwin Member Posts: 4
    Finally went to dealer to check out part number. It was the ABS module I had removed (and ABS module at Advance and Auto Zone both list for around $100.00).
    Reason I couldn't find the CTM is because CTM was not put on the Daks until 1997 (when the body style changed, this is per the dealer parts list).
    So back to the problem, head, tail, dash lights out, ABS, engine check light on, tach working intermittently. But cranks and runs fine. Parts guy stated he'd had 2 Daks with no problem like this. Suggested maybe Ignition switch and or run wiring for ground. Keep in mind NO blown fuses in FB or PDC. Any other ideas on fixing this problem?
  • jeffwarrenjeffwarren Member Posts: 2
    2002 Dakota 4x4 lights go on and off when the key is in the on position or when the truck is running. They work fine when the key is off. Has anyone experienced this and what is the solution...
  • jeffwarrenjeffwarren Member Posts: 2
    has anyone corrected this problem by replacing the central timing module?
  • kristens106kristens106 Member Posts: 2
  • kristens106kristens106 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 dodge dakota,3.9L,auto.The reverse lights work but not in reverse.On the dash it is between P and R.sounds like the shift cable needs to be adjusted just not sure how...help?
  • apb1952apb1952 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1999 Dodge Dakota, previous owner had a electrical harness for towing and it was mangled and hanging so I removed it and now turn signals are flashing fast and no front turn signals at all
  • apb1952apb1952 Member Posts: 2
    i think you are correct, i think i need a T10 to get the assembly off
  • djorndjorn Member Posts: 1
    We have the exact problem now and the truck just dies out of nowhere. Did you find out what it was? We're going nuts with this!! The truck runs great and it just stops, and we gt the no bus message in the odometer. If we give it a minute, it starts back up. Any information to help?
  • jwyattjwyatt Member Posts: 10
    I got no response from this in another posting,so I am reposting it here:

    2K Dakota Slut Truck 4.7L Auto 4wd 168K miles I have an unusual blower problem with the heater/AC. It always seems to work when I first start the truck. If I stop after a while and then restart after a short while, the fan will not work at any speed. With the AC on, one can detect that the compressor is working, and cool air will come from the vents at speed. At highway speeds, the fan generally will come on after a while.

    I am unsure as to whether it is the resistor or if the blower motor is going out in light of the blower's starting after getting to highway speeds. Is the AC or ambient air cooling the resistor enough to restart, or is the highway speed and air induction coming through the vents giving the blower motor enough oomph to start again?

    Anyone have any ideas? Jim

    Since the above was posted, the blower has stopped working alltogether. Analyzing the problem, It seems to me as if the problem is not the resistor, but I was looking around the fuse box and found a blower relay which I think might be the problem. I hope to get a response here.

    Jim
  • davem33davem33 Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 dakota 4x4 w/4.7 auto & OD gets the CEL, and gives codes 0720 & 0715, but when all is checked, the sensors are all good, so I expect a short in the harness between the TCM and Input/Output sensors. Dodge has now charged me over $800 and cannot seem to "find" the real problem. This failure results in no shifting out of 1st at all when in drive, with OD on or off, but I can limp along in second just fine as long as I don't go over 40 mph. Funny, but there are a series of "speed bumps" on one particular road that I can drive over that somehow temporarily fixes the short and allows the signals to get through and all shifts well for a while. I never know when the short will reappear. HELP!
  • jwyattjwyatt Member Posts: 10
    Hey, Dave, don't hold your breath waiting on a reply here unless you are a member of the "in" clique. I got no response on my query about the blower motor on my slut truck.

    If anyone is interested in the symptoms I encountered, it was the blower motor at fault. It finally started making a noise when it was working. Replaced the motor which required pulling the dash. I also had the heater core replaced because of the mileage. AC evaporator had been replaced previously, so this is the second time for pulling the dash out. If anyone has similiar problems, do all three at once, evaporator, heater core, and blower motor as it is 5 plus hours labor. Doing the motor, heater core, AC charge, and wiper blades was $665. Evaporator done last year was $800 plus, so I think the indie garage gave me a break.

    Good luck on the erratic xmission problem.

    Jim
  • crabylarrycrabylarry Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever resolve this issue? I have the same problem and had to take the vehicle off the road until fixed.
  • rdownwardrdownward Member Posts: 1
    If you haven't already found the solution to your problem in the forum postings, here it is. Your problem is the Central Timer & Alarm Module. You will need to replace the module to solve your problem. They are available from any Dodge dealership or I ordered one on-line from MoparPartsAmerica.com at a cost of $174.80 plus shipping. Once you replace the module, you will have to go to a dealership service department and have them re-program your remote key fobs. It requires an OBDII code reader and specific instructions from the service manual to do it. I found a helpful guy at a local dealership here who did it for nothing, but you should expect to pay for 30 minutes labor if you can't find a good samaritan to do it for you. The module is located behind the driver's side kick plate just in front of the driver's door. It has two retainers that hold it in place and can be removed by pulling the bottom toward the back door first and then sliding the top tab out and pulling it the rest of the way out. There are three plugs on the module. Just replace the module and then plug the three plugs into their respective receptacles. It's a fast and easy fix. Hope this helps.
  • jd110jd110 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Dakota, headlights stopped working and I determined it was the headlight switch and replaced it. All worked fine until I turned on the high beams and the new switch immediately burned out. Any Ideas?
  • tufftoystufftoys Member Posts: 1
    OK I have a 1994 Dak. club cab 4x4 auto 318. I just bought the truck and the ammeter is soooo pointing (-). I checked the alt. (low 13v) and the battery is also ok. And yes I knew it when I bought it. When I bought it it had 1/4 of a tank registered so I filled the tank only 13 gal. hmm. Got back to the house and noticed that the fuel gauge was still on 1/4 tank hmm. I put into 4wd and now the fuel gauge is reading empty. Yes I called the guy I bought it from to no avail. He said he had no idea, he himself just 4 months prior bought the truck and drove it from Delaware to Charleston SC straight to me, joy! I hate electrical problems!

    :confuse:
  • spiritdreamerspiritdreamer Member Posts: 1
    Hiya , I have a 99 Dakota Sport. Since I am Having problems with my Instrument panel. My check engine light,ABS and brake lights are always on.My spedomter and millage works fine but the panel is not showing the security light nor the seatbelt light.My turn signals stoped working as well. I ckd the fuse and its fine, as my emergency flasher are working. Can anyone help me determine how i can fix this. I also wanted to say that I am a proud owner of this truck. Has been a great lil guy.
  • lsburrislsburris Member Posts: 1
    try and describe short as I can! Truck would not crank 2 wks ago, no flashe codes on dash. The last time it ran, was very rough. changed 02 sensor, fixed vacuum lines, truck cranked right up, but loss of power on acceleration. Had an overheating problem, changed thermostat, busted radiator hose, changed hoses. Temp on CatCon front to back over 200 deg's difference. Cut CatCon off completely.., truck ran fine, no more over-heating, good power. Few days later, ran fine for a couple hrs around town, stopping starting.., temp good. Last stop, cranked like it was running on half the cly's, turned off, re-cranked, sounded like 6 of 8 cyl's, eased down road, smoothed out, running great, but bogging down on acceleration. Another couple days, running fine, good temp, good power.., turned off, then would NOT re-crank at all. Just turning over! Had it towed home..., not sure NOW what to ck! Everything we did, seemed to fix the problem... run a while, now doesn't "again"!!! Thanks, Lynn & Michael
  • dd02dd02 Member Posts: 1
    Whenever I turn on my lights, after they have been on for a period, all of my exterior lights start to rapidly blink on and off. I have checked for burned out bulbs, but that is not the problem. I have an uncle that said that the emergency flasher relay may be going out or is bad. Does the problem or solution sound familiar to anyone?
  • jkvasnickajkvasnicka Member Posts: 1
    On firewall components like the Dakota's resistor pack, if the component failed, it is likely due to corrosion at the terminals, which are exposed to the elements, being located under the hood. In this case, assume the connector has failed as well as the resistor pack. These are not as easy to find as are the relays but most people just cut out the bad connector and put crimp terminals on the wire ends. (mark where your wires belong before you cut!)
  • dougdoug Member Posts: 7
    I've had the same problem for almost a year now. dash is still torn apart. can't figure it out
  • dougdoug Member Posts: 7
    same thing with mine
  • lgoodwinlgoodwin Member Posts: 4
    I checked all the info that was posted here. What I found out was: 95 Daks don't have a Central timer module (CTM), these came on board in 97, all fuses under the dash, in the Power distro center (PDC) and fusible links were good. Knowing I'm not really good with electrical issues, I finally gave in and took it to the dealer. 1 day later I had it back and it's been fine since. The major tip off to the mechanic was when the brake pedal was pushed down, the ABS/brake and engine check light lit up. This was causing an electrical feed back in the system. Cause was a broken wire at the electrical connector on the firewall. Cost was about $200.00, but haven't had any problems since. Hope this helps those having the same problem(s).
  • beermann82beermann82 Member Posts: 2
    I was installing aftermarket side mirrors and i mixed up a couple of wires (they are power mirrors). when i tested the connection w/ the "switch" i lost power to my radio, mirrors, and my dome light. Is there a fuse that connects all three of these? I checked my fuse box next to the dash and all fuses are not blown. can someone hlep me figure out what was blown so i can fix it?
  • westex93westex93 Member Posts: 1
    It's the IOD fuse. Trust me, I just fixed the exact problem on my '98 not ten minutes ago. The fuse is located in the fuse box inside the driver's side door. It will be the fuse on the bottom and toward the front of the panel with a black cover over it. Just pull the fuse holder straight out and snap the hinged cover forward to expose the fuse. Just a standard 10 amp automotive fuse and you're back in business! Of course, you may still need to find out what the problem is with your new mirror installation that caused the fuse to blow in the first place....

    Wes
  • beermann82beermann82 Member Posts: 2
    You know... That would be the ONLY fuse in that truck that I did not check. I even went as far as takin my dash apart...... But thank you much for helping me out. I am now back in business.
  • spb1122spb1122 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem about two weeks ago. When the lights would flicker, the "security" light would flicker and the control panel lights would brighten and dim. Seemed to stop by itself. Now, the security light is on all the time, and my electric door locks aren't working (including the key fob).

    If you find anything out please let me know. I'll do the same.

    Thanks.
  • harrideharride Member Posts: 2
    I ran into this same issue on my 91 dakota. I found that the voltage regulator is in the main computer. The computer needs to be replaced. I did find a way around doing that by wiring in an external voltage regulator. The check engine light is still on but the charging system is working correctly till I have the money for a new computer. I found a voltage regulator at checker that came with a wire diagram to hook it up. I have had no problems after that. Its a quick fix and you only have to cut one wire on the altinator.
  • dougdoug Member Posts: 7
    finally fixed mine. wire from 50 amp headlight fuse in power distribution box to headlight switch was corroded off at connector passing through firewall. thanks everyone for all the input.
  • rab211rab211 Member Posts: 5
    Did you ever find the problem, I have similar issues.
  • rab211rab211 Member Posts: 5
    Not sure if you already got your answer, but my suggestion would be to start with the resistor, it's a common problem and the part is only $15-20, and an easy 15 minute job. Just do a search on this website for complete instructions it under the glove box on the passenger side and the only thing to remember is to slide the red plastic piece on the wire harness in order to remove.
  • rab211rab211 Member Posts: 5
    Did you ever find your problem
  • anotherjunkeranotherjunker Member Posts: 5
    i recently purchased a 1997 dodge dakota 4 cyl. 2.5 L. so far i've replace the mag. pick up, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, all four ball joints, both stablizer pins, thought i was ready to get it inspected but when they tried to hook it up to the machine result was no communication. they said that the data link is powered by the radio. i took apart the dash to find that when they put in an after market radio most of the wires in the harness were cut. O.K. my question is for an easy solution can i hot wire the data link by cutting the pink wire and the green wire. both of which are dead. checked by testing from fuse box to green wire no result and from good ground to pink wire no result. all other connections looked like the are properly hooked up. sorry for such a long post would appericate and simaler problems and solutions
  • anotherjunkeranotherjunker Member Posts: 5
  • dinovassdinovass Member Posts: 1
    OK I have met my match. I can't figure this thing out
    2002 Dakota SXT 2w/d No power anything or cruise.just A/C
    OK Here is the problem
    When the truck hits 30MPH (Exactly) the headlamp/key chime goes off and will not stop until vehicle goes under 30 MPH. Also when headlamps are on and I open the door they go off. Close the door and they go back on. The interior lamps do not work unless I turn them on at headlamp switch. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but I did notice for a few weeks before this happened that when I turned the headlamps on they would flash bright for a split second but would function properly thereafter.

    Any thoughts?
  • mrmcpokymrmcpoky Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone I'm hoping someone can help me out. Problem is when yI turn truck off with lights on and then restart all my gauges peg out and stay.Flasher lights come on but don't blink or anything. Truck still runs fine but gauges stay pegged.Only happens when I drive with light on and stop then restart (getting gas, going to store etc.) Hope someone can help me out. Thanx
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    This is a WAG, but II would look for a bad connection, particularly one involving the grounds, on your instrument cluster. When you turn on the lights, because of the bad connection, a sneak path is being created through you gauges which is causing them to peg.

    Though this idea is not very consistent with your "Only happens when I drive with light on and stop then restart" comment.
  • wk2hdwomanwk2hdwoman Member Posts: 2
    My turn signals decided to quit after 2-3 blinks and could be restarted, the emergency flashers worked fine. Calling my DIY car tech he said it probably was the flasher. I bought the flasher, which for my 2000 Dak is combination flasher, $15.95. I followed the combined instructions from here only to find they were not even close to my Dak. The flasher is NOT located below the steering column, you don't have to remove the steering dash cover or anything close to this.
    Here's how I did it: Unhooked the negative battery cable so that the airbag capacitor can discharge. Lay on your back on the floorboard; with a flashlight looking up the underside of the dash on the drivers left side. Locate a 'squarish' plug, mine was green in color and at the top of a couple of other plug type connections; pull it out (as if disconnecting a plug) noting which way the connectors are aligned; take the new (replacement) flasher and plug it in the same way. Reconnect the negative battery cable, WA LA...everything is back to working order! I should get a badge for this!
  • codeonecodeone Member Posts: 1
    I'm no mechanic by any means and I need help! I have an '87 Dakota with a V6 engine. My daughter was driving it and she turned on the radio and the truck went dead. Unable to restart it. Looking at the engine, I saw an orange wire on the right side of the engine burned apart. I reconnected the wire and tried to start it up....wire burned up again and then alternator started smoking. I have tried replacing the voltage regulator and starter selenoid but it still burns up the wire. The key is only in the accessory position when it starts smoking.
  • mrmcpokymrmcpoky Member Posts: 2
    Checked my grounds today and they all looked all right. Just in case I replaced the terminals and found one wire was corroded even though wire looked good on the outside. Once done my problem was gone. (hopefully for good) Thanks srs 49 for the help. I sprayed the terminal with undercoating to hopefully protect it, hope it works.
  • sfox22sfox22 Member Posts: 1
    Truck has 80,000 miles. Just started today with electrical problems. Park lamps flicker on and off when the truck is off. High beam indicator is always on (even when headlights are not). Truck constantly tells me the door is open even when driving. Interior lights stay on all of the time (door ajar). Power locks do not work. Everything else functions normally. I had to start pulling fuses to keep my battery from draining. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance.
  • paco9paco9 Member Posts: 2
    the hazard fuse in the fuse box under the hood of my 1999 dodge dakota magnum 6 cyl keeps burning out thus my turn signals do not work i have replaced this fuse 3 times and 20 minutes after it burns again.
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