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Comments
Thanks in advance!
From skimming this thread it sounds like that might just be a Ranger design flaw. Assuming it's just to the rear drums catching on slight rust build up or whatever, is there no easy fix? Just something to live with?
Thanks!
I have the same problem on a '99 4x4, but have not done a "normal"system bleed yet.
I really want to get this taken care of ASAP.
Thanks
When i disconnect neg. cable and reconnect this does not happen again until i put key in turn it ,pull key out and then press brake pedal and then the ign. lights come on. Did this before i replaced ign. parts.
I know its not the pads rotors or fluids.. gotta be something electronic.
Let me know.
Dave
You are going to have to take it to a shop that has the correct tech tool. This tool will activate the ABS pump to push the air out. You cannot do this manually.
It will probably say to not use 'excessive braking' for the first 500 miles. In other words, do not do several high speed braking passes or descend a long, steep hill for the first few miles. But the ABS should keep you from 'locking up' the brakes from a high speed stop....
It starts out alright at times then will start locking up to the point that my wheel doesn't turn at all. But I did manage to drive it home last night after a 10 mile drive just fine. But there was a smell of like overheated brakes or drums when I got out. I felt the drums but they where cool to the touch. I also looked for any fluid leaks but I don't see any and the master cylinder is full. If it helps the recent weather here was rain\sleet now snowy. But the roads now are dry not slushy.
Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you.
Only thing I would suggest - test for 12 volts at the brake switch. It's hot all the time, even with ignition off (on most cars. I was like this on my 94). Test on both sides of the switch, of course you have to push brake down to get switch to connect. If you have 12 volts here, you know problem is toward the back of the truck. If no power there, it's toward the front of the car......
Mine wouldn't go forward or back ! .. ( I floored it in reverse) and exactly like you said.. made a horrible clunk noise ..like something broke loose.
Any suggestions?
If air gets into the ABS pump, you cannot flush the air out in the 'usual' way of pumping the brakes with a brake bleeder open. You must have a special electronic tool that is hooked into the ABS electronics, and this will force the ABS pump to start, and then the air can be forced out a bleeder.
If your mechanic doesn't know this, and doesn't have the tool, he will never manually bleed the air out of the ABS pump, and you will not have brakes.
please help me.
Problem #1: The ABS seems to engage for no apparent reason when coming to a stop on dry payment (etal) and at very slow speed (almost stopped). I have replaced the rear ABS sensor -no improvement.
Problem #2: The front pads do not seem to exert enough force to clean the rotors. I have 86k miles and have replaced the rotors twice and had them resurfaced once. This applies to both front rotors. When I check them after only about 5k miles of use the pad contact surface is very rusted/corroded and shows only about .5" to 1" of contact use.
My 1994 Ranger went thru about 3 or 4 in 10 years.
Also, on my 94 when the switch was bad it made the cruise control dangerous. Without the brake switch throwing a signel, the cruise stayed engaged. Had to shut it off to stop it.