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Comments
ty don
Rangers got to be treated like one of your kids. Lots of TLC!
After the truck has set a while, like overnight, when the brakes are applied the first time, the rear brakes will 'grab'. A lot. If this is what you are talking about - as I said, Rangers have this problem. And I have read of a lot of things that have been done, including as you did with a lot of parts replacement - and little changed.
I think the problem is the metal the drum itself is made of. It probably gets a coating of rust in just a few hours. It will 'grab' worse if the weather is rainy or just damp. My truck was kept in a garage, and it made no difference, the first stop of the morning, the rear brakes grabbed.
My solution: As you first drive away, just put a little gentle pressure on the brake, as the truck is moving. You don't have to do much, or for very far. All you need to do is have the brakes remove the coating of rust, and this will do it. The brakes will not grab when this is done.
This is for a 1990 Ford Ranger 4x4, the drivers rear side. I really need some help please so i can get to work tomarrow. Thanks
I traced it up to the engine compartment.
When I opened the hood I found an empty Master cylinder and break fluid everywhere. Was not that way a week ago. I did find that the cap had been put on crooked and was not sealed; is it possible all that fluid came from the top cap? or should I keep looking for another source?
You should have pulled some or most of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder before you started. And when finished, check to see if you needed to add some fluid back.
I got an '01 ranger at auction which I am beginning to regret. It ran rough so we replaced the IAC, plugs, wires and finally the intake manifold which had a slight separation where the top and bottom come together. This whole time the brakes were really hard and got progressively worse. We replaced the master cylinder and brake booster. Brakes got a little better. It was still running rough when the check engine light came on with a code for a vacuum solenoid. Changed the solenoid and the brakes became hard as a rock. It seems there is too much vacuum now. The mechanic called Ford, which was no help at all. Called another guy and checked that everything was the right size. He asked about the throttle body and the mechanic found there is no vacuum line from the throttle body. No diagram from Ford seems to fit what is actually there, but Mazda has some closer diagrams. Thoughts?