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Comments
Entertaining response.
I realize my methods of maintenance on this truck are rather unorthodox, I do however, have extensive knowledge of how to do everything auto-related, I don't think, however, that this vehicle is one to actually put any effort towards.
Besides, why should I put effort into maintaining a vehicle which someone didn't even bother to put effort into when designing it?
An unfortunate Ranger it is indeed.
-Ryan
The state inspectors checked it out with some kind of inertia piece of equipment and claimed that the brakes did not stop it quickly enough. The electric motor kit includes a vacuum pump to handle the vacuum assist and we have included a barbecue size propane tank vacuum reservoir to help with the assist.
Are there any ideas as to where we could get the most increase in braking power for the least amount of effort and expense? We are considering increasing the vacuum shut off switch to get more vacuum, hopefully, using a larger vacuum reservoir or installing a new master cylinder and vacuum booster.
Has anyone out there actually done an upgrade to the larger 2 piston calipers from the newer (93-97) rangers on the equivalent of a 1987 Ranger with 2 wheel drive? Is there a kit available? Is there welding involved with the upgrade?
Same thing with upgrade to 10 inch drums on the back. Has anyone done this on the equivalent of a 1987 Ranger 2 wheel drive? Is there a kit available? What kind of processes are required. Is it a matter of unbolting the 9 inch and bolting back in the 10 inch or is hack sawing and welding involved or perhaps a whole new axle required?
Have the codes pulled and this should give an idea of what is wrong. I don't know if the local parts house can pull ABS codes for free. I think these codes must be pulled from a connector different from the usual diagnoistic connector.
We ended up putting a new master cylinder and vacuum booster as well as adding a vacuum reservoir to get it to pass inspection.
If you want to check it out go to http://web.mac.com/doug1939.
If you have any questions you can email me at [email protected]
Can anybody tell me where there might be a relay I'm missing or a fusible link somewhere. I really don't want to dismantle the truck to find them.
So if somebody can please help I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you.
The brake lights are usually hot all the time, even with ignition off. So, you might have blown up some major power source if there is no voltage coming in to the fuses.
The usual problem with brake lights is the switch on the brake pedal under the dash. But if it's got no power.....
Was this the original problem? Or did it start after all the other brake work? If it only started after the other work, I would think there is still air in the system, even after the bleeding.
Maybe even got air into the ABS system while trying to bleed the brakes. If you get air into the ABS pump, you cannot get the air out with the normal, old-fashioned bleeding procedure. You are going to have to take it to a shop with electronics that can communicate with the ABS system to get the air out.
Well, that's not how I think the brake system works. The power goes thru the fuse first (what good does a fuse do if the power doesn't go there first), then to the brake switch on the pedal, then when the brake is depressed and the switch closes, power goes to the rear brake lights, then to ground in the rear of the vehicle.
I think you have a sticky brake switch, and when you messed with it you got it to work. I think you should just replace the brake switch, putting the plastic bushing back because this is part of the switch, Your switch will probably give you more problems in the future.
In owning my 1994 Ranger for about 8 years, I replace the brake switch three times. This include one Ford switch and two aftermarket ones. For some reason, these switches do not last long.
Are you saying you pulled the connecter off the switch, then jumped these connectors and the fuse blew? If so, then the switch is not the problem. You have a short to ground somewhere between the switch and the brake lights.
Ok, I read your note again. It looks like you got power to the wire coming out of the switch (Light Green?) and the brake lights came on. And putting the connectors back on the switch, the fuse blew. This does seem like the switch is bad, bad, bad. In fact it seems to be shorting directly to ground. I would have hoped the fuse would have blown and not smoked the wire, but maybe someone put a larger fuse in there than specified.
Of the 3 switches that failed on my 94, none of them did this. The just quit making good contact when the brake pedal was pushed. This is also scary in cruise control, because when the switch/brake lights don't work, the cruise is not dis-connected when you push on the brake.... This is usually how I would find out the switch was not working. And, the one time the county deputy followed me into my driveway to tell me I didn't have any brakes light.
Of course, they strip the wire coming out of the switch to power electric trailer brakes. This, and more, was done on my used 94.
Good luck. Electricical problems are tough.
If so, you have a short somewhere between the switch and the rear lights.
If it's not blowing fuses, then something you have done 'fixed' this.
I would look closely at the rear lights for corrisson, etc. Look for cutting into the wiring back there to drive trailer lights.
If I remember right, you drop the tailgate to get to the screws that hold the rear light lens.
Next step for you - pull the plug on the trailer wiring fixture and put it back 'stock'. If the adapter or the plug for the trailer has a short inside, this could be the problem, and removing it would stop the fuse blowing, show this has the short. As a matter of fact, pull the adapter out, and leave the stock plug to the brake lights/turn signals unplugged. Put a new fuse in and hit the brake. If the fuse doesn't blow, there is no problem from the brake switch back to that connector. Plug in the stock connector. Hit the brake. If the fuse blows, the problem is in the brake lights, fron that connection to the light lens. If it didn't blow, the problem is probably in the add-on trailer package you unplugged.
I've unwired several trailer plugs, usually having terrible connections, on used vehicles I've bought. Only time I wired up a package, on a friends truck, it immediately blew a fuse. I made the connection ok, but I didn't successfully put the trailer plug back together correctly. Mis-aligned the plug, and the little screw in the side that held it together screwed right into a wire for the brake lights. A reason I don't like to work on other peoples cars. If I do such things for myself, it only hurts me. Don't like blowing up other people's stuff.
P.S. I've read recently about Harbour Freight recalling fuses, China made. They would not blow anywhere near their rating. Burned some stuff up. A bad fuse might have caused your original 'smoked wire'. I think some other parts houses might have recalled some of their fuses also. Try to find some 'good' fuses. Ask at the parts house if they have had a recall or anyone having problems. You don't want bad fuses to add to this problem.
thanks
The front disk pads should have a piece of metal that acts as a noise-making warning when the pads are worn down and need replacing. The noise is usually described as a 'chirping' noise, but different people may hear it differently. Or how it makes contact may make a different noise.
Rear drum brakes that have worn down far past needing replacing, and are getting metal to metal contact, usually sound like a metal to metal 'scraping' noise.
In any case, you will have to have your brakes inspected by a good shop. If you are hearing noises, I think you should do this very, very soon. If you delay, you could cause even more problems.
Rangers across many years have grabby REAR drum brakes. When the truck sits for just a few hours, overnight is long enough, in damp or rainy weather (or I would think if coated in snow slush), the brake drums will rust up and the brakes will grab excessively when first driven. My 94 would do this even when kept in a garage. I usually could feel the grab when backing out, and then at the stop sign just a few feet down the street. I finally decided I would 'ride' the brakes slightly for about 100 yards down the street. This removed the rust buildup and heated up the drums enough that there was no more grab.
I have read of people that changed the brake shoes and/or the drums and got relief. But other people that did this still had grabby brakes.
Of course, you could have a problem needing repaired back there. If a rear wheel cylindar is leaking brake fluid onto the shoes, you will also get huge grabbing. And this usually continues, it will not quickly wear off. Or, if you have broken or bent holddown pins or the shoes are not centered on the backing plate (pin problems let the shoes flop around) for some reason, this will give the worse grabbing I could imagine. I drove an old Ford F100 for 250 miles where it would almost jerk me off the road when the brakes were applied. When I got into the brakes, there were several broken and bent pins. All these small parts, including new holddown springs can be bought and easily replaced. And the auto adjusters might be really messed up from a previous repair and cause problem. On the rear, anything that will allow the shoes to move around in an incorrect matter will cause grabbing.
Thanks if anyone has any answers to this.
the brake lights on my 1998 Ranger XLT 4-Cyl Supercab aren't working!!! the red light in the 3-bulb assembly turns on when i turn on the driving lights, but nothing happens when i step on the brake pedal. i checked all of the bulbs and they are fine.
here's some more info:
- the people who installed the camper shell (which i removed today) 10 years ago covered up the 3rd brake light above the truck's sliding rear window
- the people who installed the camper shell seemed to have spliced into the wiring for the middle (red) bulb on the driver's side to provide power to the camper shell's 3rd brake light (which never worked)
what should i check for? i'm not very handy with cars, but i'd like to have an idea of what's going on, so that i can either fix it myself (if it's something simple) or so that i can have an idea of what to expect if i take it to get it fixed. thanks!!!!
Well, I hope someone took the time to read all this lol. Any help at all would be greatly apreciated becasue I am at a stand still right now and do not know what to do.
Thanks
Get it fixed, quick. You have much less pedal travel available, and significantly reduced braking capability. (You will have to push very hard to stop the car.)
It's my understanding if you get air into an ABS valve, you cannot manually bleed it out. You must have the tech's electrical diagnostic 'tool' to do it. I think the tool turns on the ABS pump to force the air out. But you cannot manually force the fluid through.
You're going to have to take the truck to a shop equipped to handle it.