Hyundai Elantra Problems 2001-2006

dsalyers · July 2009

I need help. My 2004 Hyundai Elantra got stuck in 3rd gear. We had it put on the computer for analysis and it says that three parts were bad: the idle speed control, the oxygen sensor, and the shift solenoid A. The mechanic said that the shift solenoid is probably the real problem so we have ordered the part and must change it ourselves since the warranty is out and we can't afford $85/hr. We have researched online and found a lot of information on the Hyundai Service Website at hmaservice.com but we are having a little difficulty with finding the exact diagrams and instructions on changing the shift solenoid A. Does anyone have any suggestions?

tworkman · July 2009

Thanks, I forgot to mention I have been alligned, still shaking :mad:

backy · July 2009

Try another balance, this time be sure they are using a Hunter 9000 or equivalent. Elantras of this generation are very sensitive to out-of-balance wheels. I just had the wheels on my 2004 GT rotated and balanced (free from the tire dealer every 6k miles). I now notice a slight shake at 60-70 mph that wasn't there before. So when I have time I'll take it back for rebalancing. This has happened before on my 2001 and 2004 Elantra. Sometimes the first balance didn't do the trick. The 2nd time was the charm in each case.

emcee99 · July 2009

It's the tires. It's always the tires. I am the original owner of a 2001 with 150,000 miles. Just replaced the tires again at 146,000 and it is completely vibration free again. You can't use cheap tires (I'm using BF Goodrich from Costco). You must have a good alignment and balance. You must make sure the steering components are all tight (I just replaced the inner tie rod ends). But good tires are the most important thing.

2006el_hatch · July 2009

Just another comment regarding clutch replacements - mine just set me back over $1,400 on a 2006 Elantra Hatchback. I took it to an independant garage where I was given a two year warranty. The dealership offered a one-year warranty for the replacement Hyundai clutch - good to find out how long they figured the second one would last.

backy · August 2009

Yes, I agree. Although the OEM tires on the 2001-6 Elantra were rather pricey Michelins, and many folks had shimmy problems with those. I never did. But it's popped up a couple of times on my 2004 probably because I went the cheap route when I had to replace the tires at 18k due to my DW's run-in with a curb in a blizzard (curb won). The tires work and wear fine, but one seems to be badly out of balance so the tire shop has to balance them carefully or I get the shimmy.

ftmyers · September 2009

I just took my Elantra in to the dealer for the 30,000 mile service check. They replaced 2 of the original front tires even though the wear was only 5/32 & 6/32. They were free, so it was ok. However, my car rode poorly so I checked the tires. They put 87H on the front and the originals on the back are 88H. They don't want to switch them out. They said the load weight doesn't matter. I know for a fact it does but they're giving me the run around. They said it's not the tires, it's my struts and all 4 need to be replaced. I asked how could that be with so few miles and I don't go 4-wheeling with the thing. They said it was due to being put on the lift every time I had normal maintenance done. I think I'm getting scammed here. But when you push down on my car it barly moves, so the struts probably are bad. It sounds like they're defective though. They also replaced the timing belt even though it didn't need it. They said if I didn't replace it and it broke, whatever got damanged would not be covered by the 10-year warranty. What do you folks think? Thanks!

stephen987 · September 2009

I think you're being scammed.

For one thing, if the struts were worn out, the car would keep bouncing and bouncing. The fact that it "bar[e]ly moves" is proof that the strut cartridges (which function like shock absorbers) are in good shape. The only way that bad struts would cause a stiff ride would be if the springs were binding.

backy · September 2009

First, complain to the dealership's management. They were extremely dishonest with you. The tip-off is the timing belt replacement--they at the very least should have gotten your approval before replacing it. Also unless you run on bad roads all the time, it's unlikely all 4 struts went out at 30k miles. I still have the original struts on my '04 Elantra with 45k miles and they're fine. My sister's '01 Elantra, which she bought from me a few years ago, has about 65k miles and the original struts.

Second, find out if the dealership is a member of BBB, and if so file a complaint with them.

Third, call Hyundai Customer Service and tell them what happened.

Finally, never go back to that dealership, unless it's to buy a part or pick up a refund check.

ladylovebite · September 2009

I'm looking for a cheap, reliable car for an elderly relative.

I recently test drove a 2001 Elantra in a used car lot. It has 80,000 miles on it but the body is immaculate. I checked the glove compartment and found a ton of service receipts from the previous owner. The car shimmied on the highway; the new battery was loosing power so the alternator was replaced; brakes and rotors were replcced three times in about one year; power steering hoses too. Also, the car apparently stalled on the highway, but mechanic couldn't find the problem. The check engine light was on when I took it for a test drive (it otherwise drove very well)

On the one hand the car sounds like it might be a lemon. On the other, it has all new parts now so one would assume the problems are solved. Price is right -- $3000.

As a loyal Toyota owner, i'm very nervous about this car's reliabilty ratings.

Should I buy it?

09elantraowner · September 2009

Here are the things I'd do - check Consumer Reports and see what the reliability looks like - also do a CarFax on it. Also, if you've got the receipts of the previous owner - you may have enough info available (phone book lookup?) to contact them. Try calling and stating who you are and why you're calling and ask them what they think of the car and if it's worth buying (particularly for the price). They've sold it - no reason to give you a song and dance about it now...

backy · September 2009

The points about the brakes and rotors being replaced 3 times in one year, the stalling, and the check engine light would make me pass on this car.

The model itself has been pretty reliable (I owned a '01 Elantra for many years, my sister still owns it and it's been reliable). But I don't like unresolved check engine lights, even though it could be a minor thing like a sensor.

fushigi · September 2009

I agree with Backy. You might want to pass on this particular Elantra. But please dont be dissuaded from all 01 (and newer) Elantras based on that experience alone. My wife has an '01 GLS with 71K miles and we've had very few problems. The worst was the rear defrost switch failed & was replaced under warranty. No powertrain issues.

dria24 · September 2009

I live in NYC and would like to know where do you Hyandai members purchase used cars, I have read good prices on last models with low mileages. My girlfriend is looking and I want to be ablet o give her some directions and advice. She is willing to do some travelling for an good/excellent buys. thanks again

backy · September 2009

Although I have purchased used cars from private parties, my last six used cars over the past four years have been from dealers (all but one a new-car dealer). I find cars from new car dealers are in generally excellent condition, e.g. have been reconditioned to look new or near-new. More importantly, dealers offer warranties. My 2007 T&C has a lifetime powertrain warranty (no, not from Chrysler and not from the dealer, but from a large insurance company--the dealer includes this warranty for "free" on all of their used cars with less than 100k miles). My last two used cars, a 2005 Jetta (totaled last April) and a 2007 Rabbit were VW Certified cars, with long bumper-to-bumper warranties. I almost bought a 2008 Sonata instead of the Jetta; the Sonata had the Hyundai Certified warranty, which extended the powertrain warranty to 10/100k. I like the peace of mind that comes with knowing I won't have unexpected repair expenses for several years.

I used the usual search engines, e.g. autotrader.com and cars.com, to find most of these cars. You can do a search out as many miles as you like. You can also frequently check the Carfax report for the car online--some dealers provide access to the report in their ad. I use the search engines to narrow the field down to several cars that could meet my needs, then I go check them out, first by email and phone, then if there's no issue I check them in person.

haddy002 · November 2009

i have an 01 elantra and it has an issue when refuling, basically it has to be refueled very slow or the fuel will come out. I need to know how to fix the issue and if any has this same issue..? I did take to a mech and they said nothing was wrong

backy · November 2009

I can think of a couple of possible causes:

1) kink in fuel filler hose
2) fuel in the carbon canister (which can happen if the tank has ever been "topped off")

You might ask the mech if they checked those things. I have found the type of pump matters with my '04 Elantra. On most pumps, no problems fueling. On others (especially at a particular station I frequent), I have to use the lowest setting on the pump and even then it shuts off with 1-2 gallons free space in the tank. So does this happen every time you fill up, at every station?

haddy002 · November 2009

yes it does happen at every station and everytime i am refuling it... Its like... the convination of fumes and fuel...make the car spill the gas back out... i will speak to my mech about the suggestions... ty

igotoldcarstoo · January 2010

Hi there, I have similar issue with my car, what cha need to do is used turtle wax headlight restore polish. You will clean the cover with the polish first, then if it is not clear, then you will use the buffing pads to remove the film, then re-polish the cover. It work great - good luck

phinn1 · January 2011

I've owned the 2001 elantra ve, since new and I've had too many problems to mention here, but as for the brakes; I couldn't tell you. I've used high quality, low quality and replaced calipers, hardware, cylinders, etc and it still remains the same. I would bet it might have something to do with the parts. Most of the parts I buy are not from the dealer because the dealer prices are astronomically high. I might try this next to see if it does the trick; if not,. I wonder if it could have anything to do with the suspension or the rim itself?

cebra · February 2011

they told me to replace my timing belt at 113000 - it may not have needed it..
they said the same thing to me...

jimbeaumi · March 2011

Hopefully someone has had this problem and it was cleared up quickly. At random times and completely sporadically, my car will hesitate almost as if the power is being switched of and on quickly. The RPMs dip, the engine light will blink, and then it smooths out again. Sometimes it does this on acceleration, and sometimes it will stall if it is idling. Have replaced the coil already, and the engine is not throwing a code. My trusted mechanic suggested the dealer since their equipment might be more thorough in finding the issue: nothing was found. They did clean up some ground contacts which seemed to eliminate the problem until another couple of hesitations today. Is this the crank position sensor (and wouldn't that show up in a code)? Is it something else? Moisture in the tank?

Help!

fushigi · March 2011

Off the top of my head I'd say check for the following:

Weak alternator/belt/failing battery.
Bad plugs/wires.
Bad gas/moisture in the tank.
Clogged fuel filter/failing fuel pump.

The gas issue is the easiest & DIY thing to check. Get some gas line drier and run a few tanks of premium gas from a Top Tier brand.

jimbeaumi · March 2011

Thanks for the suggestions. The problem seems to be going away, as it hasn't hesitated for a few days. Maybe there was moisture in the tank, but I could be wrong to think that moisture would cause a more consistent problem. Would moisture be drawn from the tank and into the injection system frequently on one day and almost not at all the next day? It's an interesting puzzle to try sorting out (when one isn't a mechanic).

fushigi · March 2011

Would moisture be drawn from the tank and into the injection system frequently on one day and almost not at all the next day?

Possibly. If the moisture buildup was mostly burned off then there wouldn't be any more to cause problems.

I'd still suggest the gas line dryer & premium gas. Call it cheap insurance.

jimbeaumi · April 2011

I tried a fuel injector cleaner and gas dryer that the man at NAPA said would help. He thought that the 15% ethanol blend might be the issue. Problem persists, but soooo erratically as before. I can drive all the way to work with not a single driveability issue, and yet on my trip home the car stumbles multiple times in quick succession and stalls twice within 30 seconds. What would happen randomly? Crank position sensor? A charging issue? Sometimes the stumbling occurs part throttle, around 2,000 or more RPM, and I can watch the tach drop off significantly while the engine light flashes once. Almost like someone is pulling the plug very briefly and then plugging back in. Except that I'm not driving a vacuum.

What is happening??

backy · April 2011

15% ethanol? I don't think that year Elantra is designed to run on 15%, is it?

jimbeaumi · April 2011

It was a guess. I'm not sure it had 15% in the tank, but stations are using this more and more.

jimbeaumi · April 2011

So today I'm heading back to work at lunch hour, and I am on a stretch of road doing 50 or 60, when then engine starts its little blips and the light flicks on for a moment. Then the tach drops to zero for a good 4 or 5 seconds, but the engine light is still off, then the car continues running. This is getting weird. I've ruled out hot/cold running issues, but have not ruled out moisture issues. The problem is worse on damp days, and today we had plenty of rain.

OK, where's my car electrical expert here in the forum?

revells · April 2011

I have a '01 Elantra which did that very thing off and on for a while. It did always seem to be worse on wet days but it never got so bad that the car actually cut off all the way, it would just "blip" as you say and the check engine light would blink. Then it wouldn't happen for days or up to months at a time, but it always came back.

I replaced all spark plugs and wires and never had another problem. I don't know how or why moisture seemed to be a factor, but the problem went away and that was all I cared about. Hope that helps!

Mr_Shiftright · April 2011

There might be a trouble code stored for these incidents, and it probably will indicate some kind of misfire. But pinpointing an intermittent misfire code can be quite tedious. Even a dose of bad gasoline (a touch of water) can do this, or old ignition cables, etc.

jimbeaumi · April 2011

It seems like we (mechanic and I) ruled out plugs and wires, especially since the dealer claims to have replaced the wires two years ago. I'm pretty certain they tested these. I will still consider this, of course. Car has not been showing any codes, which is why this is so aggravating.

What about ignition control module? Would that be affected by moisture? Or should I stick with plugs and wires? Relatively cheap starting point, I would say.

Thanks for the continuing tips, folks.

fordgt40 · May 2011

new fan,relay,resistor pack & tried new dash control unit.still blows 30 amp fuse under hood.2005 elantra w/65,000 miles.all original,lady driven great shape.I'm lost now.speed 1 & 2 seem ok but fan speed 3 & 4 blow the fuse.circuit braker in place of fuse.blows fuse in 10 or 15 seconds.THANKS for any input!!

fushigi · May 2011

Well, an automotive fan doesn't draw 30 amps so the circuit is shared with other components. You either have a problem with the wiring harness (i.e. a short somewhere) or you have other components on that line that are using enough power to send the total consumption over 30A.

Considering that it works OK at lower fan speeds (which would use less power) my first assumption would be there's another component (or components - plural) on that fuse that's drawing more than it's fair share.

When the fuse blows do you notice anything else that stops working (lights, radio, rear defrost, power windows, etc.)?

A good tech ought to be able to see what all is on that line and check the power draw at the individual component level.

ritacar · October 2012

2006 Elantra with 65k miles recently exhibits an intermittent electrical problem when not started for several hous. When the key is turned all the dash lights & elec accessories activate but the engine only gives one click sound and does not start. (yes. the key is turned fully to the start position.) After a few tries the engine does start properly and runs fine. It will re-start after this. Then, after sitting for several hours (usually overnight) it will repeat this exercise. But it only does this intermittently. Not even every day.
Replaced the battery the first time but it kept doing this. Took it to the dealer and they said the negative battery cable was loose. They tightened it and it was fine for several days. Then it began again. Took it back to the dealer and they said the spark plug wires needed to be replaced. Had them replaced and it was fine for a few days. Now its doing the same thing. There seems to be no pattern as to the frequency of this happening. Your thoughts?

kukoofishy · November 2012

I took my 2003 Elantra for a state inspection. (New York) My mechanic would not pass it due to a rusted front cradle. He said the holes for the bolts are rusted out and could not be tightened. He said that the "frame cradle" would cost beteween $1500 and $2000 to replace. He said that he could not find a recall notice for this but it is a common problem and that Hyundai should repair it at their cost (no cost to me)
The car is a 4 cyl. with 90,000 miles. I also have a 2000 Elantra with 176,000 miles and no
problems. I was just wondering if anyone had a similar problem since my mechanic said that this is common.

cralosky · February 2014

I have a 2001 elantra and one day I came to a stop and I could feel my brakes pushed farther to the floor to stop than usual and when I got to my house I could smell what smelled like brake dust so I walked around and check the tires and it was my back left wheel. The rim was hotter than the others. I called my brother in-law, who works a little on cars and he said it could b the drum or bake line. Anyways I drove the car for about a month and I never happened again. Well today I come to a stop and I here this really loud scrapping noise. I take it to my dads and we put the car up on the lift and check the brakes, well my inner brake pads are grinded to the metal and my left rotor is bad. I got the pads and a new rotor, but I don't just don't want to fix what the problem caused before fixing the problem. Would you have any idea what might be the issue here or ha anyone had this problem as well?

Chris

Hyundai Elantra Problems 2001-2006

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