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Comments
-mike
-mike
Due to my job; I was forced to move to Massachusetts.
The problem is that the cold winter air is getting through from all the doors.
Note: THe car has no heated seats and the heater doesn't cover low enough the lower part of the car. Am I the only one with this problem? I took my car to two local dealers but, I know that they are jerking my around. They denied they probleme, even when, I see their faces turning blue. I did contact Subaru but, they are also jerking me around. Telling my that this is the first time they heared about it. What should I do? Am I the only one with this problem?
I am having?
Thank you.
My van has vents in the ceiling and I noticed they're not used when I have the heat on. I guess they think it would never reach the passengers.
Any how, back to your case, I would consider a remote starter.
Even better, get an engine block heater. That way you have heat immediately, as soon as you get in.
Another thing is next time consider a Forester with heated seats. I know I will! For sure on our next one.
I remember pricing aftermarket leather for $900, and heated seats brought the total to $1200. Perhaps they could install just the seat heaters for $400 or so? It may be worth it to ask.
This is a steady noise - not achime or beep like an alert. Dealership had no idea.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!!
There is a setting that splits the heat between the dash vents and the floor, that should warm the whole car up.
-mike
Programming the transmitters
The keyless entry system is equipped with a special code learning feature that allows you to program new transmitter codes into the system or to delete old ones. The system can learn up to four unique transmitter codes. The four transmitter codes may be the same or different.
To enter the programming mode:
1. Press to disarm the security system (if so equipped).
2. Open the driver’s door and sit in the driver’s seat.
3. Close the driver’s door.
4. Place the ignition key into the ignition switch and cycle the switch from LOCK to ON ten times within 15 seconds. Be sure to stop at the LOCK position and leave the key in the ignition. The horn will sound once to indicate that you are in the transmitter programming mode.
Thanks,
Vince
The first issue that I can remember was the passenger side fog lamp went out at about 35K miles. I replaced it. Then I noticed that the passenger side head lamp (not the day time light) was spotty. It would go in and out and you could wiggle it as if there was a short. This issue remains.
Slowly the lights on the instrument panel are going out. First, the wiper fluid indicator light went out, then the light on the cruse control button (which is to the left and below the steering wheel). A couple of months later I noticed that the button light for the fog lamps was also out but I know this didn’t happen at the same time as the cruise button. Most recently the lamp on the dash clock went out. At first we could knock on the dash to get it to light up, but that only worked for a week or two.
Now just the other day check engine light came on with the cruise indicator blinking. I’ve seen this in the past and was able to remedy the situation by making sure the fuses were all seated firmly. That doesn’t seem to help this time.
I had a similar problem with another car and it turned out to be a lighting harness. By no means am I a car expert or even a knowledgeable enthusiast, but I’d like to be able to take it to a mechanic with some direction rather than allowing them to diddle around for 4 or 5 hours to diagnose the problem. Any suggestions??
However your CEL + Blinking Cruise is a result of a CEL. The code can be pulled with an OBDII Scanner.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
-Frank
Friday night I took a 45 mile trip, about 20 miles into it I started hearing a whining sound when I pressed on the accelerator. Soon after that, my ability to accelerate with severely diminished however I was able to maintain speed without a problem. The whining kicked in and out, and there seemed to be sputtering/kick-back going on as well.
I thought maybe we had a bad gas mix or something, but the problem remained intermittent even after I filled my tank. I suspect most of these minor issues are coming to a head right now because of the cold temperatures (-1 that evening). The long and short of it is that I'm going to get the codes so I can be somewhat knowledgeable when I take it to the dealership unless someone knows of a reputable repair company in Des Moines, Iowa.
LOL
-Frank
If it's on the inside, you can clean them, but the bigger challenge would be to find out where the seal is bad and correct that, else it will just get dirty again.
Our old Mitsubishi Lancer had a brown headlight like that...it was a pain. I did clean up nicely but it would go brown again a few months down the road.
I talked to two dealers and neither one had heard of this before. My dealer said they'd need to hear the noise before they could escalate it, so to speak, up the Subaru chain, but of course I can't reproduce it.
Fred
2. was engine bay washed ?
The '09 Forester I drive had no door lock issues after its first "typical" (conveyer belt, spray wash, revolving brushes, high intensity blowers ) car wash.
Didn't leak, either :shades:
-mike
MJ
-Frank
Later in the evening I tried to go somewhere again but it wouldn't start. All dash lights seem strong and normal, I can hear the fuel pump start, but absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key. No dead battery "ka-ka-ka" sound, nothing. I put a voltmeter across the battery and it seems fine. All the fuses are fine. Do you know what might be going on? What kinds of devices are there that prevent the car from starting unless ___ is engaged/disengaged, etc? Could the starter relay be suddenly kaput?
Thank you!
Also make sure the parking lamp isn't on, it's the switch on the top of the steering column.
2 electrical questions: Recently left turn signal flashed extremely quickly. Continued to do so after I pushed turn indicator to right then left. This 'effect' went away after a couple of days. What gives? Next, my cell phone charger for car won't charge anymore. Same charger works in other cars. (this one plugs into lighter receptacle). Fuses or the receptacle?
Off and on for past 2 months, my check engine light goes on then off. Sometimes if
I vent the gas door it goes away after a couple of days. Many times, if it is hot (anything over 65 F in Oregon), it will go on. Sensor bad? And how to check? Could it be related to E10 requirement in Oregon?
Service people want to do 90,000 mile maintenance. Because I had new clutch plate done, all belts are replaced. Now want to do rest. But $150 for replacing
spark plugs? And over $600 for the rest?
Had oil change done today. Forgot to ask about checking the warning light. Now service guy says it will cost $68 just to check the output. Am I getting screwed?
Finally, he says that my CV seals are cracked and need to be replaced right away. For $400?
As for the cost of fixing stuff, I think you just need to shop around a little. Is there a local vendor review website like Yelp where you are?
I took the car into Wolffe's in Langley yesterday and they told me that I need to replace both drivers door and tailgate locking mechanism modules.
Yesterday, just after 1:00pm the car finder horn sounded off. I first thought that my wife had maybe inadvertantly squeezed her remote, but no, both keys were hanging on their respective hooks. I picked up my key and went outside - by this time the horn had stopped sounding off. I tried using my remote and found that, now my driver's side lock could be unlocked and locked with the remote. The tailgate remained in it's failed to default position of locked.
I will update this forum if anything else changes.
All day Saturday the drivers door could be remotely locked and unlocked.
On Sunday it reverted back to being unresponsive to both locking and unlocking with the remote key.
This continued until yesterday. As background, after I returned from the service at Wolffe's my driver side window would not fully open.
Anyway, yesterday I operated the driver side window and it almost stopped where it did after the service, but there was a banging noise from inside the door and the window kept going down to it's fully open position again.
When I got home, guess what?. The drivers side door locked and unlocked with the remote once again.
Can anyone figure this out?
The tail gate still will not unlock with the remote.
Takes just a couple of minutes to do. Most of the time is waiting for the soldering iron to warm up!
I had chipmunks chew up my wiring harness on my minivan and I observed some very strange symptoms - it said my knock sensors were failing! :confuse:
Check out the wiring, could be a short there somewhere.