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Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

135

Comments

  • volvoidvolvoid Member Posts: 4
    thanks for the idea - - not sure if it's only when brake is applied, but will check tonight -- that could explain why mechanics don't replicate it and computer is clueless. I've suspected vacumn leak but couldn't locate one -- this will help me narrow down suspects. Guess I need someone to apply brake while I listen?
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    I don't know if you could hear the leak but it's worth a shot. The hard vacuum line cannot be replaced with anything other than a vacuum hose so swapping w/ heater hose etc won't work. (The vacuum will collapse it.)

    The vacuum leak idea is just a shot but another forum I'm on has had people report leaks in the brake booster / hose as a cause of intermittent stumbling.

    HTH
  • volvoidvolvoid Member Posts: 4
    idle wanders whether brake is on or not -- doesn't mean that's not the culprit, but less of a smoking gun. Will check more this weekend. thanks again.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    A common (on older XJ's) problem is for the intake/exhaust manifold bolt's & studs to come loose due to heat cycling & vibration. You can check for that with a squirt bottle (an old windex bottle, etc) filled with water & set to stream. When the motor is misbehaving squirt along the head to manifold surfaces. A temporary change in idle - ie, it smooths out... will help you pinpoint the suspected leak area.

    If they are loose - do NOT OVERTIGHTEN! The studs are especially prone to snapping off & they all get 23 ft/lbs., if I recall correctly. (At least on my 4.0L.) I have the torque values etc on my site on this page:
    INTAKE ? EXHAUST MANIFOLD TORQUE VALUES & TIGHTENING SEQUENCE

    This page is for the older RENIX XJ's but other than some head port changes & HO exhausts not having the EGR tubing it should (SHOULD) be the same for all year 4.0L's.
  • neil693neil693 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 89 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer. I park it on the grass and in the morning it doesn't start. I just all the caps, plugs, wires, and filters changed out. It still won't start. When I come home mid-day it starts right up. What else could be the problem?
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Allergies? :P

    Next time it doesn't start up - lift the hood & unplug then replug the Crankshaft Position Sensor connector. (Back of head, driver side on US models, wire runs from harness to nearly hidden sensor on upper area of bell housing - diagram on my website.)

    Failing Crank sensors are a very, very common issue & often are intermittent until they finally crap out entirely. Connector is probably oxidized & morning moisture is causing enough extra resistance to prevent signal pulse from reaching computer.

    Give it a try & let us know how it goes.
  • magicmastermagicmaster Member Posts: 4
    1990 Jeep Cherokee: Takes up to 30 seconds of cranking to start. Once started, will idle a little rough but straightens out with some revs. Has been hard to start for a while but recently degraded to the point of no road time. Put it in gear and it immediately runs rough, begins to backfire, won't take load. When put back into Park/Neutral it straightens out. Replaced fuel filter, TPS needed slight adjustment and I ran a bypass ground from the TPS as the ground was a little weak (runs a little better after that) and checked for vacuum leaks. Also verified the engine->firewall ground is ok. CPS generates .2 to .3 VAC when cranking (as per testing on lunghd's website). I have a new CPS and ready to replace it as it seems to be the common culprit in many posts that I've read. Anything else I should look for while I'm at it?
  • magicmastermagicmaster Member Posts: 4
    Update: Replaced CPS, plugs and wires, double-checked plug gaps. Removed/cleaned the idle step sensor. Runs a bit smoother now. It will put to the local convenience store, however, still gets bogged down if given too much gas while in gear. In park or neutral, runs fine, no obvious misfires. I've checked vacuum levels at the EGR solenoid and it was around 15hg and did a manual test on the EGR valve. Also have removed the Catalytic Converter to verify that it wasn't causing too much back pressure buildup. I have also sprayed starting fluid around the vacuum hoses/tubes to make sure there wasn't a hidden vacuum leak. Besides replacing more components (Cam Position Sensor and MAP are next on my list).. any insight would be appreciated.
  • jkratmanjkratman Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I was hoping someone might be able to help. Hopefully, I can phrase my problem correctly....

    I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4.0 auto. It has 98000 miles on it, I bought it new and kept up all the maintenance.

    About two weeks ago, it started giving me problems with hot start after a really hot day driving with the A/C on. It started fine cold. When hot, I had to really give it gas to get it to start and not immediately stall out. After a few minutes, the idle leveled out and all was well.

    A week later, the condition reversed. Hot starts were easy; one crank and good, no rough idle. Cold starts became troublesome, long crank, rev the engine until it levels out, all is well. Unfortunately, the cranks are wearing down the battery and the problem is one my local mechanic can't nail down. His only comment was the battery seemed drained-- 11 volts (no wonder with all the cranking). I plan on replacing it as it's four years old already and probably won't cut it for a New England winter, but I'm skeptical that it's the problem.

    Any thoughts? TPS? CPS? Coolant sensor? Plugs are three months old, Champion truck. I have the Haynes manual and I was planning on checking voltage resistance on each sensor.

    BTW, I checked the forum already and saw the bit about priming the fuel pump by switching it on and off twice. It seems to make no difference.

    Any and all suggestions would be great.

    Thanks in advance.

    --John
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    with 4 year old battery i would change that first as jeeps are sticklers on volts from bat change that and see if takes care of prob before you spend lots chacing stuf
  • harry44harry44 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4x4 straight 6 cylinder, my problem is i started it one night drove for about 30 yards I noticed my headlights went out first then the engine shut off. I thought this was weird so i tried starting it back up... it would not start nor did I have any headlights or horn or radio ... and i could'nt get my windows back up. I checked fuses I did not see any blown fuses. the real weird thing is that a jump will not help but the vehicle turns over, just wont start and no electric.... what could be my problem?
  • jkratmanjkratman Member Posts: 3
    Yep, problem solved. It _was_ the battery, thanks. Maybe I should trust my mechanic! :-)
  • 95zjtom95zjtom Member Posts: 8
    I just looked up the neutral safety switch for a 95 Grand Cherokee 5.2 liter V8 for $9.99.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    What's your fuel pressure?

    TPS voltages check out across the sweep range? (A Digital volt meter might miss any dead spots -heck an analog might miss a dead spot too but an old school volt meter with a needle will catch a dead spot easier.)
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    What's the battery voltage? Cables in good condition with NO crappy aftermarket clamp-on style terminals? (They corrode underneath the clamps & loose contact.) Any faults showing from computer?
  • magicmastermagicmaster Member Posts: 4
    Spot on.. I actually replaced my fuel pump assembly and a fresh fuel filter this last weekend. I noticed that I had no pressure at my test port on the fuel rail after an attempt to start. Fuel pressure was a little over 15 lbs with ignition on and was suffering from pretty bad leak down, losing pressure fast. Now it starts within 2 seconds of cranking and has plenty of power, enough to powerbrake with ease (my neighbors could tell I was happy :-) Fuel pump was definitely my problem..
  • danrhodesdanrhodes Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Jeep GC, 4.0 6 cyl, auto. I have recently replaced the starter, battery, and did a full tune-up. I am having problems with it stalling while in any gear other than Nuetral or Park while I am pushing on the throttle. It will idle fine while in gear and I can rev it up to redline with no problem when it's in N or P. Please help with any ideas. Thanks
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Sounds like the idle stepper motor (IAC) located on the throttle body. They get gummed up & can fail to open and / or properly seat. It's usually a 'free fix' - remove & clean it with some good carburetor cleaner spray.

    Wait a minute - I just re-read your post... Let me double check my understanding:

    Idles well while in Drive or Reverse... but does not rev up?
    Revs up in Park or Neutral.... but will not idle?
  • magicmastermagicmaster Member Posts: 4
    Check my post right before yours.. I had the same symptoms. It was my fuel pump. Would seem to idle ok and could rev it up in Idle and Park no problem but when put into gear, immediately began running rough and would back-fire when throttle was applied and/or stall out. Check your fuel pressure.
  • lisamarierlisamarier Member Posts: 5
    I recently had the fuel pump and 2 sensor changed. When the jeep is idle in park it runs fine however when I brake, it feels like it will stall but it doesn't. The engine light is on and the mechanic said I should bring to Jeep for testing. Other than that it seems to be running fine. What could be making the car sutter when braking? We did have tons of fan issues but the car is fine and doesn't over heat anymore. The mechanic couldn't fine anything wrong??? Any ides before Jeep charges me a fortune for nothing. Thanks!
  • lisamarierlisamarier Member Posts: 5
    I did have the fuel pump changed. How do you check fuel pressure??

    Thank you.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Checking fuel pressure is with fuel pressure gauge attached to schrader valve on fuel rail - it's a lot easier than it sounds! :) You can 'rent' a pressure gauge at AutoZone or have it checked by a mechanic.

    As to the stutter when braking: check your brake booster vacuum hose. Also a possibility that the booster has an internal rupture though not common.

    Idle air controller (idle stepper motor) located on throttle body could be sticking as well & is a common pest with idle issues. Easy enough to remove from throttle body & clean.
  • nikki07nikki07 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 168k on it. It runs fine in drive and neutral, but sometimes when i put it in reverse the engine completely cuts off. Usually if i wait a couple minutes and try again it works fine.
    Also, when on long car trips on the highway, the "Trans Over Temp" light on the dash comes on. I checked the transmission fluid dipstick and there is plenty in there, and there is also plenty antifreeze.
    Any advice?
  • dchez6969dchez6969 Member Posts: 1
    We are experiencing problems with our Jeep! The mechanic can not figure it out! The Jeep will sometimes start and run fine and then other times it will start but sputter and almost stall untill warmed up, or will start and stall after a few mins of driving, and not start but turnover. Also the other day the information screen started flashing and every possible indicator went on at the same time and then it backfired, after that it drove great for a day. Now its back to same routine. we think it is something electrical. We just don't know what any think will help!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    when was your trans oil changed? pluged filters in trans will cause it ti run hot

    the other prob dont have a clue
  • bvisockybvisocky Member Posts: 3
    1st time post here. Thanks in advance.

    Have a 2000 4.0 L Cherokee Sport. Have been having a problem with rough idle as well. At first thought it may be a PCM memory issue. I found battery conections badly corroded so I replaced them and cleaned and tightened all grounds in engine compartment. Worked Good after I reset memory settings.

    Problem cleared up for 2 weeks as we ran through a full tank of Premium gas and fuel inj. cleaner. Now we are getting to less than 1/4 tank and the problem returned today. Runs great above idle. Now suspecting fuel issue.

    I have read the stepper motor issues and will give that a try. Was kinda wondering if I may have a filter/pressure regulator issue at idle. Am gonna try that as well when I get time.

    Does anyone have any other ideas?
  • dricks1dricks1 Member Posts: 1
    HI, this is the exact same problem I am having with a 2001 Jeep cherokee that I have. Worked fine after cleaning the batttery terminals for about 2 weeks, then started the stalling again, runs perfect at other speeds. Please let me know if you figure this out before I do. One friend looked at it and said that my throttle body was leakding at the shaft. It sounded like it was. Please respond if you figure it out.
  • BentleytnBentleytn Member Posts: 1
    I probably caused this - I am experiencing a check engine light suddenly as well as a high idle (2K) at start. This all happened after I detailed the motor. I also loosened and forgot to tighten the radiator cap during the same cleaning. I feel that I either have air in the cooling system which needs to be let out (not certain where the valve is for this) or I pulled a sensor or vacuum tube loose (which I can't find) or I broke the idle control valve. The truck only has 50K miles and is in perfect shape. I would appreciate any help.
  • interditxinterditx Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem for a month ; checked sensors, checking fuel plugs . Then one day the car didn't start, just dead at the starter. Cleaned the battery cables,got it to start. Took it to Auto-zone , a free battery check told me the battery changed polarity.Haven't had any glitches seance.
  • mmcraemmcrae Member Posts: 1
    My 1990 4wd 6 cyl. Cherokee has two cooling fans. One operates off of the belt, the other is electric. The electric one quit coming on. I don't know where to find the relay, or thermostat, or whatever triggers it. I am going to wire the fan directly to the battery to make sure it still works, but I need guidance once that is ruled out..
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    On your RENIX 4.0L XJ, the fan is controlled by a temperature switch located on driver side of radiator facing engine - about mid way down. This switch turns the fan on & off at a preset temperature. There is also a small diode located in the harness nearby that location but rarely gives any problem. The most likely culprit is the relay for the fan... the location of which escapes me at the moment - think it's under the plastic panel, battery side halfway back over passenger side wheel well.

    Above info does not apply to HO engines - RENIX (Closed cooling system) only.
  • asceasce Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone help me out with some troubleshooting? I have a 1996 grand cherokee 4wd v8, drove it to the store yesterday and when i went to leave it wouldn't start. I got it to start with the assistace of jumper cables and juicing the gas butthe second I let my foot off the pedal it would kill. It won't start without a jump or stay running without my foot on the pedal. I took the battery and alternator to Autozone and they checked out fine. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • trumblejrtrumblejr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 4.0 Cherokee standard 4x4, 238,000 miles. Starts fine when cold and runs great when rpms are above idle. At idle, say at a light, and after the engine has gone to operating temp, I get syptoms like flooding, misfire or bad gas. The longer at idle the worse it is. If I shut down the engine, it will not start until I let it sit for about 45 minutes. I have replaced plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and idle control in the throttle body. Gas had seafoam treatment, ran down till 1/4 tank and refilled with good gas, just in case.

    I am in Atlanta and traveling to Pittsburgh tomorow for a short term job for great money. I would have to spend a couple hundred to rent a car. Please Help!

    Tom
  • mcchesneymcchesney Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 grand cherokee limited takes along time to start after sitting overnight once it starts it runs great
  • binnersbinners Member Posts: 4
    Hi. I have recemtly replaced my radiator. That was an experience all in itself....however, the jeep dies when I am sitting still, or reversing. I thought I had gotten bad gas, so I put in Heet (twice). It still dies....what can I do? I can't take it to AutoZone for a diagnostic test because there is no "check engine light" on or any type of error message. It's driving me crazy!! I rely on my vehicle for my job. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks, Robin
  • binnersbinners Member Posts: 4
    By the way, its a 4.0 Also, when the gas level get to 1/4 tank, that is when the rough idle/stall occurs. I just ran and filled up, and it still idles low, but even with the a/c running, it does not stall! Very frustrating!! Any help, please. Thanks! Robin
  • diamond25diamond25 Member Posts: 2
    Hello My jeep does the same thing. Sputters when start in the morning. Restart and it runs fine and smooth.. Have you came to a solution yet?
  • lisamarierlisamarier Member Posts: 5
    After having a mechanic look at it several times, it was the computer. A new one costs around $800 but my husband found a refurbished one off the internet. You send them info and they adjust it to your car. The only thing is you need to send your old one back to them within a certain time frame. It cost us $300 for this and it worked. However, when he installed the computer the next day the gas/mileage and electric windows stopped working?? The car runs great however we don't know what's wrong. I guess that is on a separate computer that only a dealership can touch. Hope everything works out!
  • lisamarierlisamarier Member Posts: 5
    Robin:

    If you have a mechanic go to them and ask about the computer. It may be the fuel pump. Have them check. Our computer went. We bought a refurbished on the internet because a brand new one costs $800 with out installation. It only costs $300 for a used one but the catch is you need to send them your old computer back to them. It worked out great and the car runs fine. Hope this helps!
  • lisamarierlisamarier Member Posts: 5
    We go the computer replaced but the next day, my 2000 grand jeep cherokee with aprox. 145,000 miles, the spedometer and gas controls went crazy and they all stopped working along with the electric windows! All the lights work and the radio but our mechanic told us we needed to take it to a dealer because it's a GM computer that we can't do ourselves. Has anyone else had this issue? Don't want to put any more $$ into this. We just got a sticker after toying with new lightbulbs but want to get at least 8 more months of use before we get rid of it. Thanks for your suggestions!

    Lisa
  • hatingthisjeephatingthisjeep Member Posts: 2
    The vehicle just cut off and i'm not getting any spark...i've replaced the coil and the ecm..still nothing
  • hatingthisjeephatingthisjeep Member Posts: 2
    i get no fire and i hooked up a diognostic tool to the computor and it can't read it...any idea's why?
  • jod1289jod1289 Member Posts: 1
    Well when I go to start my Jeep it turns over kinda rough then it starts but begins to idle rough till the check engine light comes on. Any suggestions??
  • ledendledend Member Posts: 3
    how much time need to start up engine at morning,cherokee 95 SE a/t after key ON position? my cherokee need 5-10 minute. what's problem wth my cherokee? and no problem if the car engine is hot/after drive to going somewhere....just first start at morning.....
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Can you describe exactly what happens when you first turn the key in the morning? Do you hear any sounds? Do lights flash?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ledendledend Member Posts: 3
    just "klik"..... i think is relay or something like that at under steering, and on panel just parking lights ON...after 5-10 minutes ABS and CHEK ENGINE lights ON then fuel pump
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Check your battery, starter solenoid, cables and the starter itself.

    Anyone with hands on experience, please feel free to jump right in here! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ledendledend Member Posts: 3
    i'm use dry cell battery(50amp) maybe the cranksaft sensor problem? cause the loading time betwen key ON to fuel pump ON is 5-7minute....
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Can any Cherokee owners offer ledend some suggestions? I'm stumped!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • robp1115robp1115 Member Posts: 2
    try replacing the crank position sensor 1st if not then try the cam position sensor
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