Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Even more interesting is how low the marks were but how highly they rated the Montero in the comments except for road handling and power yet it finished last. Lets turn this around then. If the Montero had say 240hp and slightly stiffer anti-sway bars, from what the article says then it would be soundly in first place.
The review also has the Montero at 11. something seconds to 60mph and I have seen quotes as low as the high 9 second range so whats up with that?
Go read the paragraphs on the Montero and you will see why this would be true. "great interior, if you were going straight down the road you would think this is the best vehicle, best off road, etc"
Oh, dont forget the best warrenty and best observed gas mileage. I just got 21.7 over 370miles running from OR to CA. On the way back in the wind it dropped to 20 over 187 miles. I could not believe it. The only difference on this trip was that I used Mobil 1 but I find it hard to believe that the oil could help that much. Speeds ranged from 60-75 in mixed traffic, passing, and mountains.
One can drive the '01 Monte in unlocked 4WD by putting the transfer case in this position. My understanding is that you can do this under all driving conditions and torques will "automatically" be applied where the traction is greatest.
Is the new one ('02-'03) different?
What does this quote mean?
That not having a choice of 2WD or 4WD is better than having one?
That most driver are too stupid to know when it's raining or snowing, or that they're not dirving on pavement?
Of course those dummies dont understand that the ability to control the various modes on the Montero is almost unique to this one vehicle, and prefered.
While there are drivers who feel uncomfortable with learning how to use the 4wd system and would rather be in an "automatic" mode at all times, the majority of knowledgeable users and virtually all off roaders would say the Montero system is almost ideal.
Some might argue for a true locker in the rear or front but there are few if any SUV's today that offer such control over a system.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I like reviews from Countries that have real world experience with 4wd.
Notice at the end they mention that the Montero is in the running for top spot for family 4wd wagon.
http://www.4wdonline.com/Mitsubishi/Pajero/200009.html
Good luck
http://www.monterooffroad.com/
They are all pricey.
Geolander AT's are supposed to be OK too from what I read. (And a little bit less expensive)
Size is the question -- LT265/70R16C, LT265/75R16D (give about a 0.5 inch lift), LT275/75R16D (a little less lift [0.5 centimeters])? I like the idea of increasing the load capacity from a C to a D range.
All of the above will fit a 7 inch width stock rim.
On that project Pajero in Australia, they went with the 265/75D size.
Keep us informed as to what you decide.
The rating of the Yok Geolander is very good for everything except mud.
The tire to improve off roading that I would go with would be the Goodyear MT/R
See these sites and many others that have rated this tire.
http://www.rockcrawler.com/features/newsshorts/02january/goodyear_wrangler_rubicon.asp
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/technical.htm
http://www.sgmotorsports.com/tiresize.htm#TireSize
Just enter in the values and go.
1. LandCruiser
2. Montero/Pajero
3. 4Runner
And this decisions are not based on the leather seats or buttons. They are based on whether you can rely on whether the vehicle makes it through desert, mountain or jungle to the next town...
[Edit mode - found one]
"Lopes was trying to pass a car on a Honduran highway near Jutiapa when a truck approached from the other lane Thursday night, forcing her to veer sharply to the left, said police inspector John Cole of the resort town of La Ceiba. The Mitsubishi Montero she was driving struck two trees and flipped over several times."
link
Can't find anything about the model year.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
See this link: http://www.theneworleanschannel.com/sh/entertainment/stories/entertainment-142197220020427-100410.html
What's your opinion?
The vehicle flipped several times after striking two trees. I don't recall CU doing the "Tree Impact" test.
Your Healine in the Title "maybe CR was right" reminds me of typical Poorly written Media headlines. Sensational and suggestive Headline then admit to not knowing the facts or even if that was the vehicle in the crash.
Drew
I definitely agree with 'dski'. Any vehicle that hits a tree or two most like will flip over. I was amazed that the 8 others survived. As I recall, the older models only have seating for 5 and not the third row seat.
Plus, what vehicle wouldn't flip if it went off the shoulder of the road first and the shoulder was soft (sandy?) or at a reverse angle to the road?
1) Was driving at excessive speed;
2) Tried to pass another vehicle;
3) Hit two trees;
4) Rolled multiple times;
5) Apparently had 9 people in the truck.
Like others above, I am astounded that 8 others survived the horrific accident. This shows yet again that people should not drive their SUVs like cars and should be more careful in the way that they drive any vehicle.
They are turning front rotors and recommend but don't insist on turning rear rotors. I asked what benefit I'd get for turning rears for another $90. He said longer pad life.. I got 52K on the originals so I said skip it unless there is an obvious need. So I'm spending a little over $300 instead of over $400.. ouch.
Drew
Interestingly since thinking that I have the second best off road SUV I read an article stating that the Austrailians had picked the 2001 model over the LC that year.
All the shops I speak with in Austrialia love the Montero.
Tires: just saw a picture of the new Geolander A/T's. They look more aggressive now and may be a step up from the heavy street biased Geolander that came on our Montero's. Yok also has an M/T but it looks much more off road oriented so may not be for everyone.
http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/new.asp#PRODUCTS
2. Wind noise repaired. Now windshield makes a squeaky noise every time I go over a bump.
3. Vibration in brakes at 25,000 miles. Had rotors turned & new brake pads installed. Have 38,000 miles now & suffering from same problem again. Vibration when braking.
4. Power steering pump makes whining noise.
5. Air-conditioning clutch rattles and is noisy when air is not engaged.
If anyone else has any of these problems. Be persistent and keep returning to dealership for repair. Good luck!!!!
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I have 53K on my 2001 XLS. Replaced the tires recently with Bridgestone Dueler H/L and find them better than the originals.
Oil changes: I go about 5K with my intervals. Any expert will tell you that the "Average" person is wasting money with 3K intervals with todays oil technology. Many old school folks are still afraid of that but do your own research and I know you'll discover what I have. My dealer tech say's Synthetics are NOT recommended for this engine and can cause damage but I have not been able to collaborate his claim. Nor have I tried.
Rotors Problems: You have chronic rotor troubles? That is an odd one. In many cases of chronic rotor problems, I've found that someone is replacing wheels (such as during tire rotation) and NOT properly Torquing the Lugs equally to spec. If your having this done by someone using a torque stick, ask them to do it by hand from now on because something has been causing warping. My tire guy never complains about doing that for me.
Good Luck.
Drew
As far as your 5K interval, the only problem is that the oil gets "dirty" and the filter needs to be changed for optimal treatment but the synthetics can go for up to 7-10K without breakdown. Regular oils are better now but high heat can break them down much faster so I think driving style/loads etc need to be taken into account for each individual.
The remote oil filter option I discussed above would allow you to change filters more frequently than the oil and if running synthetics, save a lot of money. I havent done this yet just because I'm too lazy.
Thanks much,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
It's been awhile but he said something about this engine specifically that does not take well to Syn's in the long run. I have NO idea if this it true or not.. just something the service mngr told me. If I really wanted to use synthetic, I'd probably check it out with Mitsu directly given what I've been told. BUT, I don't see any warnings in the manual. You'd think they'd make mention if it were a problem. Maybe there are legal reasons to consider. Look what Toyata is going through with Oil Problems.
As far as the 5K change interval. We probably will never agree on it. 5K is just NOT too long a period for debris to be an issue for MOST of us and you already know the oil will hold up. Of course I said for "the average driver"... If your doing a lot of off-roading, 3K is what you should do. Maybe even sooner for some people. For me, I could probably stretch even further without worry. I'm 80% highway miles.
Best of luck
Drew
Well, I've always heard that Orange and Yellow cars from those years are the Least Reliable, so I've always avoided them. Pre 2002 orange and yellow cars are fine I'm sure.
What an odd request. Must be NY. Times. In Fact, I wouldn't be surpries to see them conclude that Yellow Cars are the least Crash Worth. CU did that study one year I'm sure, LOL.
Drew
If it is NYT, I would expect bias in favor of yellow cars - considering that is the color of choice for the thousands and thousands of taxis on the streets of the Big Apple! :-)
tidester
Host
SUVs
LOL... as I was reading this I was expecting you to say they'd be biased toward Yellow since that's what identifies their Journalist best.
Drew
Now, now! LoL!
tidester
Host
SUVs
Just as today's engines are far superior to the engines I started out on in the 1960s, so it is with motor oils. When I began turning a wrench, the best motor oils had a service rating of SC (for engines from 1967 and earlier). The latest oils have an API rating of SL, which exceeds the benefits of ALL PREVIOUS OILS, regardless of brand. While I do use synthetic oils for some of my cars (e.g., my antique Mercedes, which Mercedes-Benz itself recommends for their cars of those vintages) I rely on the non-synthetics for my late model cars. And I don't change my oil any sooner than necessary; to do otherwise is a waste of time and a waste of petroleum. When I was younger, an engine with 50-70K miles on it was a candidate for an overhaul; today, that kind of mileage unremarkable, due, in no small part, to the improvements of motor oils.
For those who remain unconvinced, I would refer you to the American Petroleum Institute's web site: www.api.org. This organization provides the service ratings for our motor oils. I apologize for the prolixity of this post.
The same holds true for the synthetic issue. Compared to regular oil changes with petroleum based oils you probably would not have anything serious happen in the time frame.
I do know of some racers who build engines who swear by synthetic and make statements like you cant even tell the engine wear.
Synthetic should not hurt the motor though. The only place problems should occur would be in motocycles with wet clutches where synthetic has sometimes been too slick and caused increase clutch slippage. I dont know of anything in our motors that would be equivalent.
Zinc and Phosphorus are the wear agents in oils of the past and worked well but then they were taken out or reduced and "additives" used in thier place. Many believe that these additives are inferior for wear protection despite what the oil companies say. You can see excellent discussions of this on motorcycle web sites as oil is much more critical in these engines.
I always changed the oil (non-synthetic) and filter every 3-4,000 miles and used whatever 10w-30 was on sale or available.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards